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Screened Solar Air Heater
Solar LED Light Jar rev 1.5
How to make a Kayak drainage port
Great way to make drainage in the kayak or canoe. It is very important since when the kayak gets filled with water it becomes very difficult to drain it out.
Great way to make drainage in the kayak or canoe. It is very important since when the <a href="http://www.kayakandcanoegear.com">kayak</a> gets filled with water it becomes very difficult to drain it out.
Gun Locker Using Actual Lockers!
I've updated the post with some inside the hatch pics!
Do you have a pic of the inside of the hatch after the install or did I miss it?
Flush Mount Rod Holders into a Pungo 120 Kayak
An excellent book on all things solar is:"Solarizing your Present Home"Edited by Joe Carter.My copy is dated 1981 - Rodale Press.Might take some searching but well worth the investment.
Not to detract from all the similar projects on Instructables, but the 'wheel' was invented, refined, redefined, rebuilt, re....With all the new materials and technology, this book will help the whiz kids and DIY types to begin with a known design and updating/Improving and resetting the bar.THIS Instructable is a great adaptation of a proven design.Including indices, the Solarizing Your Present Home is 669 pages and no 'irrelevant' pages.
"confident it would still fit like a glove"Allow for Expansion and Contraction! Rout a groove for the plastic front and plywood rear panels allowing for expansion (deeper than a 'glove fit') instead of a rabbit. The groove contains the material and a sealant (Dupont 5200, is great) applied tot eh exterior joint will maintain the air-tight enclosure while allowing for the inevitable movement when temps move as much as seventy degrees or more (not to mention variations in moisture which will dramatically impact the wooden parts of the project).Wood expands and contracts with changes in moisture levels. Wood contains moisture - even pricey kiln-dried hardwoods.Leaving the exposed (to the elements) wood unpainted is preferable to sealing it with primer and exterior paint - it will rot from the inside out!Consider using pressure-treated 2-by lumber that has been left for months (inside with air circulation) to dry out, then don't paint or prime it at all. Something like Thompson's Water Seal (as used to treat wooden decks) would be OK as it allows the treated lumber to breathe while repelling rain water and such.Or, build the frame with aluminum or teak!I second the idea of considering that Heat Rises - thus placing the air intake low and the exhaust high. Good instructable. - charlessenf-gm
My car interior heats up to over 200 degrees F when it sits parked with the windows closed. I have been entertaining ideas about installing some thermocouples to trickle charge the battery when it's parked. - mikes4222
I was going to use something like this to provide heat for a clothes dryer. I would just install it on the roof above the laundry room and run an insulated vent hose to an air intake on the dryer, which I would then use on the "Air fluff" setting. - mikes4222
A small suggestion/expansion on your idea of using solar cells to power the fan. I would suggest using a smallish solar cell devoted to the heater and mount it close to the heater. Then use a vent valve similar to those found on dryer outputs which is closed when not in use and the air pressure from the dryer opens it. When the solar cell mounted near the heater is in the sun it will supply power to the fan which will blow open the vent and circulate the warm air. When there is more sun it will circulate the air faster when there is less it will circulate slower giving air more time to warm in the heater. Pros: no issues with electronic sensors failing or the funkiness sensors can involve, requires no external power source Cons: you will lose some residual heat just after sundown that is still held in the concrete board. BTW I am flagging this and will revisit it when I am no longer renting. I think this would be an excellent way to heat an external garage or shed/shop. - ariachus
Thanks Ariachus. I agree on the solar cells and using a simple, mechanical, thermostat to kick the fan on and off. The thermostat would allow the unit to come up to temp before blowing and cut off the fan before getting too cool. I actually have a few floating around in the parts pin. Set the screw for the right temp and never worry about them again. However, I really do like over complicated things. Nuff said.. ;-) If I have time before winter sets in I'd love to have two or three different models, each logging the data for comparison.
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