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  • DIY 3D Printed Laser Engraver With Approx. 38x29cm Engraving Area

    Use, after selecting the object, this button to ungroup.

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  • DIY 3D Printed Laser Engraver With Approx. 38x29cm Engraving Area

    Now I see wat you mean. The little bar that you have highlighted on the picture does not belong there at all. It is a design residu that I haven't notiched at all during publishing. While designing things some parts I shuffle aside for later use, but it seems that I put it too far aside. Sorry for that!Anyway, please delete that unused part and it wil be fine.Ps. I have used "Tinkercad" to design the whole thing. With this free app it's easy to change all the parts of the engraver to your needs.

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  • DIY 3D Printed Laser Engraver With Approx. 38x29cm Engraving Area

    The diameter is 23mm and they are approx. 7mm thick. The slots in the X-frames are 6mm wide. It works perfectly!Greets.

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  • DIY 3D Printed Laser Engraver With Approx. 38x29cm Engraving Area

    Thank you! Good luck with the modification!

    I really don't know. Maybe you can find it out on the Arduino website? A Nano however is'nt that expensive, so to be safe, it's maybe better to buy a Nano.

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    • DIY 3D Printed Laser Engraver With Approx. 38x29cm Engraving Area
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      31 comments
  • DIY 3D Printed Laser Engraver With Approx. 38x29cm Engraving Area

    Thank you very much!

    Thank you.I think that, with some alterations, you might be able to put an extra stepper motor and a contruction to move a drill up and down, instead of the laser. But the electronics and all of the software settings as they are now are intended for two axis only. So I think it should be possible but with some efford!

    Thank you!Wow 15 Watt's is amazing. With that amount of power you can't afford a misfire.I have loaded GRBL v1.1 in my Arduino nano board. Did you have connect the TTL line for your laser to D11 of your nano? Because if you accidently have connected it to D12 the laser fires immediatly.Maybe you can compare your schematics with mine and also the GRBL settings in the board and in the config.h as well.If you want more info, please let me know.

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  • DIY 3D Printed Laser Engraver With Approx. 38x29cm Engraving Area

    Rectification:I said: "All these connections you can find on the left side of the schematic" That is not correct! It is on the right side of the schematic!

    Yes, with the S parameter the laser power is regulated via PWM. The gray-scale results are good indeed but I've noticed that some materials have better results than other.

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  • DIY 3D Printed Laser Engraver With Approx. 38x29cm Engraving Area

    Thank you. I paid around 190 Euro's for all the parts except the laser. The laser I had already in my posession. It's a pity that there are difficulties in your country to buy profiles. Maybe an internetshop who ship worldwide?Greetings.

    I also bought the M140 diode along with the 1.8A Super X-Drive Laser Driver. On their website you can read and see pictures of how to alter the driverboard to establish TTL and omit the slow start function.

    Thank you for your comment.I have no experience with laser wood cutting, but if they say that you can lasercut with 5,5 Watt, maybe you could. Personaly I think it's a little bit short on Watts. But maybe with multiple cutting repetitions (with for instance the program "T2laser" you can specify how often the laser follows the cutting patern) it could be succesfull.I just found this movie on YouTube and I think this gives the answer:Succes and greetings.

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  • DIY 3D Printed Laser Engraver With Approx. 38x29cm Engraving Area

    Thank you! You're welcome.

    Thank you! Nice to hear!

    Thanks a lot. My intention was to bring out as much information as I can to the readers of my instructable. Reading your comment I think I succeeded in that. Thank you!

    Thank you!The laser module is'nt really a module. The housing (with the yellow sticker) came from a scanning device, and I pull out all of the guts and placed my 2 Watt laser + driver in it. By change I had a fan that fits like a glove. The laser + driver + lens I bought as separate parts and solder the thing together. I have ordered the laser (allready pressed in a cupper tube), the driver and the lens (a good one!) by DTR's laser shop.That's also the reason that I had to power the fan separately.If you are to buy a laser I recommend you to buy a ready made laser module with, and that's important. TTL control! TTL is necessary for gray scale lasering (PWM). Then, in fact, you only have to use 3 connections (+, TTL and -) instead of 5 (with two fan connections) as I have mentioned in my...

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    Thank you!The laser module is'nt really a module. The housing (with the yellow sticker) came from a scanning device, and I pull out all of the guts and placed my 2 Watt laser + driver in it. By change I had a fan that fits like a glove. The laser + driver + lens I bought as separate parts and solder the thing together. I have ordered the laser (allready pressed in a cupper tube), the driver and the lens (a good one!) by DTR's laser shop.That's also the reason that I had to power the fan separately.If you are to buy a laser I recommend you to buy a ready made laser module with, and that's important. TTL control! TTL is necessary for gray scale lasering (PWM). Then, in fact, you only have to use 3 connections (+, TTL and -) instead of 5 (with two fan connections) as I have mentioned in my instructable. I also regulate laser power: the 4 point connector. But regulating laser power is an option to choose for. For me laser power control is important: I just want control over the emitted power.All these connections you can find on the left side of the schematic.Greets.Ps.You can find complete laser modules with TTL on plenty internet shops like Alibaba or Wish.

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  • Venkes commented on Venkes's instructable Glass Engraving With 2 Watt Laser Engraver5 months ago
    Glass Engraving With 2 Watt Laser Engraver

    Yes, that was a permanent marker. A white-board marker (is non permanent) wil do also. You have to choose a color that wil absorb the laser energy most: red for blue lasers, blue for red lasers, etc.... Black wil do fine for all color lasers.

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  • Venkes commented on Venkes's instructable Laser Scanning Microscope 6 months ago
    Laser Scanning Microscope

    Nice to hear. Thank you.

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  • Venkes commented on Groover's instructable Pocket Laser Engraver.8 months ago
    Pocket Laser Engraver.

    You're welcome!

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  • Venkes commented on Venkes's instructable Laser Scanning Microscope 8 months ago
    Laser Scanning Microscope

    Thanks, but a HW5P-1 is a photo transistor. I make use of the LDR that comes with the kit.

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  • Venkes commented on Venkes's instructable Laser Scanning Microscope 9 months ago
    Laser Scanning Microscope

    Yes I know. Please read my comments there.

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  • Venkes commented on Venkes's instructable Laser Scanning Microscope 9 months ago
  • Venkes commented on stoppi71's instructable scanning laser microscope with Arduino9 months ago
    scanning laser microscope with Arduino

    Hello stoppi71,In my opinion only the (re)writable ones are doped with a corresponding colour: bluish for DVD, reddish for blu-ray. If you lay a few readymade different types with the label side down on a table its hard to tell wich is wich, they are all silvery. I have used four different (red, green, blue and uv) lasers to magnify a cd, and the uv-type (shortest wavelength) has the sharpest picture (see my samples below). Which is on the opposite side of the optical disc spetrum.So look at my results and judge for yourself if it is worth to try, if it's not to much of an effort, to put in a DVD pick-up instead of a CD pick-up!The differences I get with an LDR are: (LDR without a pinhole) 4,2 V when in focus 1,1 V when nothing in the light path. (LDR With a pinhole): 3,6 V in focus and...

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    Hello stoppi71,In my opinion only the (re)writable ones are doped with a corresponding colour: bluish for DVD, reddish for blu-ray. If you lay a few readymade different types with the label side down on a table its hard to tell wich is wich, they are all silvery. I have used four different (red, green, blue and uv) lasers to magnify a cd, and the uv-type (shortest wavelength) has the sharpest picture (see my samples below). Which is on the opposite side of the optical disc spetrum.So look at my results and judge for yourself if it is worth to try, if it's not to much of an effort, to put in a DVD pick-up instead of a CD pick-up!The differences I get with an LDR are: (LDR without a pinhole) 4,2 V when in focus 1,1 V when nothing in the light path. (LDR With a pinhole): 3,6 V in focus and 0,3 V with nothing in the light path. I don't eliminate any offsetGreets,Ron.CD samples: Both a cd, 1st with uv, 2nd with red. I think also that the optical quality of my red laser's collimating lens isn't really good (what partially should explain the difference in image quality). In a laser pick-up however it must be excellent.

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  • Venkes commented on Venkes's instructable Laser Scanning Microscope 9 months ago
    Laser Scanning Microscope

    Thank you!Please see my comment on your instructable page.

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  • Venkes commented on stoppi71's instructable scanning laser microscope with Arduino9 months ago
    scanning laser microscope with Arduino

    It seems that we were developing an LSM on about the same time. You also managed to nail it! Well done! There are indeed differences in approach between our LSM's. Both work well but both has pro's and con's naturaly. Where mine ( "https://www.instructables.com/id/Laser-Scanning-Mic... for the interested!) has the freedom to use different lasers, yours is probably slightly easyer to build. Just a thought, I think you can get sharper images if you should use a DVD pick-up (red laser), or better, a blu ray pick-up (uv laser) instead of a cd pick-up( ir laser). Where a blu ray pick-up uses uv light, the shortest wavelength, and a cd pick-up ir light (in your design), the longest wavelength. The shorter the wavelength, the smaller the lightspot can be and will produce, theoretically,...

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    It seems that we were developing an LSM on about the same time. You also managed to nail it! Well done! There are indeed differences in approach between our LSM's. Both work well but both has pro's and con's naturaly. Where mine ( "https://www.instructables.com/id/Laser-Scanning-Mic... for the interested!) has the freedom to use different lasers, yours is probably slightly easyer to build. Just a thought, I think you can get sharper images if you should use a DVD pick-up (red laser), or better, a blu ray pick-up (uv laser) instead of a cd pick-up( ir laser). Where a blu ray pick-up uses uv light, the shortest wavelength, and a cd pick-up ir light (in your design), the longest wavelength. The shorter the wavelength, the smaller the lightspot can be and will produce, theoretically, the sharpest image. These differences in sharpness can you see in my results were images are taken with red, green and uv lasers.I really want to congratulate you with this result because I know what a long way you have traveled, just as I did.I am allways looking for ways to improve my builds (probably you do to!), so I'm gonna take a closer look at your photodiode solution as that is maybe a better way to detect the reflected light!Mine does half an hour to complete one (256x256) image. What I really want to know is: how long take an image with your LSM to complete?Greets,Venkes.

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  • Venkes commented on Venkes's instructable Laser Scanning Microscope 9 months ago
  • Venkes's instructable Laser Scanning Microscope 's weekly stats: 9 months ago
    • Laser Scanning Microscope
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      13 comments
  • Venkes commented on Venkes's instructable Laser Scanning Microscope 9 months ago
    Laser Scanning Microscope

    I don't know the type.

    Thank you.You're right about that. It's exactly what I thought. But as you may have read in my instructable, I tried that. I doesn't work fine because of the filter inside the pickup for taking care of producing multiple spots on the cd (for better tracking purposes) and that it's for one axis only, so you have to move the whole thing in the other axis as well. And taking the weight in considderation I think the inertia wil spoil the proces. And further more, you're very stuck to one laser. The solution I have used gives you the freedom of using different lasers. Besides that is it not clear how the light sensor in the pichup works. All these reasons have made me decide to make it just like I did. But if you are confident to do it otherwise, your really should do that. Maybe it turns ou...

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    Thank you.You're right about that. It's exactly what I thought. But as you may have read in my instructable, I tried that. I doesn't work fine because of the filter inside the pickup for taking care of producing multiple spots on the cd (for better tracking purposes) and that it's for one axis only, so you have to move the whole thing in the other axis as well. And taking the weight in considderation I think the inertia wil spoil the proces. And further more, you're very stuck to one laser. The solution I have used gives you the freedom of using different lasers. Besides that is it not clear how the light sensor in the pichup works. All these reasons have made me decide to make it just like I did. But if you are confident to do it otherwise, your really should do that. Maybe it turns out fine.

    I don't know the type.

    The LDR came with the official Arduino Uno starter pack.

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  • Venkes commented on Venkes's instructable Laser Scanning Microscope 9 months ago
    Laser Scanning Microscope

    I know that. The idea behind this all was that I make an instructable that could be in reach for most technical hobbyists and that it will cost almost nothing to build. The lasers you mentioned are most probably not the lasers most hobbyists have, pricewise, in there possession. Probably everyone is in possession of a laser pointer and believe it or not you can do LSM with them. I've done it. On the movie and at the end of the instructable there are some examples I made and indeed the shorter the wave length the better it is as I mentioned in my instructable (by the way these examples has to be seen not bigger than 7 cm across, then the pixels match the screen res.). Further more, the build with a gas laser instead of an diode laser is also more complex because of the size and weight o...

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    I know that. The idea behind this all was that I make an instructable that could be in reach for most technical hobbyists and that it will cost almost nothing to build. The lasers you mentioned are most probably not the lasers most hobbyists have, pricewise, in there possession. Probably everyone is in possession of a laser pointer and believe it or not you can do LSM with them. I've done it. On the movie and at the end of the instructable there are some examples I made and indeed the shorter the wave length the better it is as I mentioned in my instructable (by the way these examples has to be seen not bigger than 7 cm across, then the pixels match the screen res.). Further more, the build with a gas laser instead of an diode laser is also more complex because of the size and weight of a gas laser. I think also that when you make use of an argon ion laser there is to much power and will burn holes in your specimen (it happend to me to with so little as 30mW!) because of the slow scan speed and the extremely small laser spot. I have a TEM00 HeNe laser I've used to make holograms and maybe I'll give it a try with it one day. Anyway thanks for your reply. Greets.Ron (Venkes).

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  • Venkes commented on Venkes's instructable Laser Scanning Microscope 9 months ago
    Laser Scanning Microscope

    Thanks!

    Thank you! Now my ego grows a little bit.

    Nice to hear.

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  • Venkes commented on Groover's instructable Pocket laser engraver.11 months ago
    Pocket laser engraver.

    Thank you!The mosfet's only task is to switch the laser on and off. Therefore the mosfet is powering a relais. The relais act like a switch so I think you can easely hook your laser, laser powersupply and step-down module to it if you considder the relais as a simple switch. I hope this wil help you further,Succes.P.s. Sorry for the late response, I did not get a notification from Instructables

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  • Venkes commented on Venkes's instructable Quick, dirty and cheap laser engraver1 year ago
    Quick, dirty and cheap laser engraver

    Thank you!

    Thanks!

    You're welkom!

    Thanks.

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  • Venkes followed Venkes1 year ago
  • Venkes commented on Venkes's instructable Quick, dirty and cheap laser engraver1 year ago
    Quick, dirty and cheap laser engraver

    It's been a while when I bought my laser at DTR's, Idon't see mine on their website anymore. What I had purchased at DTR's lasershop was:- A blue 2Watt laser diode, already pressed in a copper module;- A good lens (glass not plastic);- A suitable driver.The driver is very important because you can't hook the laser diode directly to a normal powersuply. They need to be current controled. The driver I had has to be tweaked to make sure there was not slow start. But you can find how to do that, on their website as well.Second important is the ability to switch the laser on and of by TTL, so you can use Arduino's pin 12 to switch directly the laser on and off.Cooling is very important too, so you have to buy an adaptor for the 12mm brass module or make one yourself. Thats what I did.On the...

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    It's been a while when I bought my laser at DTR's, Idon't see mine on their website anymore. What I had purchased at DTR's lasershop was:- A blue 2Watt laser diode, already pressed in a copper module;- A good lens (glass not plastic);- A suitable driver.The driver is very important because you can't hook the laser diode directly to a normal powersuply. They need to be current controled. The driver I had has to be tweaked to make sure there was not slow start. But you can find how to do that, on their website as well.Second important is the ability to switch the laser on and of by TTL, so you can use Arduino's pin 12 to switch directly the laser on and off.Cooling is very important too, so you have to buy an adaptor for the 12mm brass module or make one yourself. Thats what I did.On the other hand, you can buy a complete module with laser, driver, lens, cooling, TTL etc. You can find them on the web. But pay attention to the TTL: I've had seen lasers that switch the laser off with TTL high. You must have one that switch the laser on with TTL high. And no slow start!I hope this helps.

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  • Venkes commented on Venkes's instructable Quick, dirty and cheap laser engraver1 year ago
    Quick, dirty and cheap laser engraver

    I don't have tested the limits of the laser in the machine with many differend materials but 2Watt's is reasonable strong and can burn through stuff with ease but has troubles with thick materials. Wood for instance is difficult, you can set it on fire and angrave it but cutting? Even with a 40Watt laser you have to engrave several times the same object to go through. But with this laser you can easely cut paper, plastic's, cardboard (see pic) etc. The color of the material is very important for the speed on with you cut/engrave.

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