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3D Printing Class
If you are able to get the bottles into pellet size easily you are good to go.However filament isn't that expensive anymore in my humble opinion. Where I live, which is in Germany, I pay for a 800gr roll around 20€. This is made in Germany by a small company which specialzed on making filament only. But I have also seen 1kg no-name rolls on ebay for around 17€. For a really long time I used this cheaper no-name filament and the quality was very nice. Also the diameter was (with both, the cheap and the "more" expensive" filament) absolutely constant at 1.73mm +- 0.01mm.Speaking of which. Getting the correct diameter on self-extruded filament and maintaining that specific diameter is a science in itself. This is a lot of trail and error. A lot of. And time is mone...see more »If you are able to get the bottles into pellet size easily you are good to go.However filament isn't that expensive anymore in my humble opinion. Where I live, which is in Germany, I pay for a 800gr roll around 20€. This is made in Germany by a small company which specialzed on making filament only. But I have also seen 1kg no-name rolls on ebay for around 17€. For a really long time I used this cheaper no-name filament and the quality was very nice. Also the diameter was (with both, the cheap and the "more" expensive" filament) absolutely constant at 1.73mm +- 0.01mm.Speaking of which. Getting the correct diameter on self-extruded filament and maintaining that specific diameter is a science in itself. This is a lot of trail and error. A lot of. And time is money and when considering it from the economic stance I fear that buying ready made filament is a bit more economically than making it yourself. All the more if you realize that getting PET bottles into pinhead sized pellets requieres a machine (or at least some manual laborious handywork) and buying pellets might be easier in the end. Because, you know, 3d printer shops sell pellets for hilarious high prices.
You do have to chop it off at the pointy end anyways.
switch motor cables. left <> right OR(!)change wire-couples -> if red+blue is on the top connectors and black+green is on the bottom connectors, switch both pairs. Put red+blue down and black+green up.
I think this "almost nothing" movement is intended. "Set home" just sets the current position of the pen as "home". It does not rotate the motors at all just sets them "high" so you cannot move them by hand.
nevermind. see this :http://www.polargraph.co.uk/forum/polargraphs-group2/troubleshooting-forum5/cant-get-my-settings-calibrated-thread530/
When I set my 200step motor to 400steps and a multiplier of 1 the movement is totally messed up. Approximately a 1cm move downwards moves the gondolo more like 10cm. So I don't understand why you recommend to set the stepper motors to these values (doubled steps) that do not work. And as they don't work for me, they will not work for anybody else. No just kidding. Is there some math behind it or why is this?
Oh wait! My bad. 500mm/sec is way to fast.100mm/sec might be a good point if you machine is rigid enough. Sorry.
Does your servo move properly? Does it lower and raise the pen correctly?Getting the servo to move how you want it to move is a laborious task in the beginning. The turnkey laser export plugin modification from misan for example uses G4 code which is not recognized by grbl 0.9i. At least it throws errors when trying to run the gcode.
I guess you mean 500mm/sec. 5000mm/min converts to 83mm/sec which is pretty slow.
You get "g'schabde Spätzle" (scraped Spätzle) if you use a small cutting board, put the dough on it and use a knife to scrape a small amount of dough into the boiling water. This is the traditional way. Like in this pictur. http://www.prosieben.de/tv/galileo/rezepte/beilage...In Germany you can also buy special Spätzle Schaber :)
Don't forget! Extruding speed depends also heavily on the material you use. The higher the MFR (melt flow rate) the faster. The plastic used in this instructable is an ABS/PC compound with a higher MFR than pure "default" ABS. However there are plenty of ABS types with different MFR. You need to check out their datasheet.
It basically is glass wool with an aluminum shell wrapped around. It's a brand called isover.You can check out this link http://www.hornbach.de/shop/Rohrschale-ISOVER-Protect-1000-S-Alu-22x20-mm-L1200-mm/200486/artikel.htmlto find a substitue in your area.
Preasure in the barrel fitting being built up by pushing pellets to the front keeps the auger from moving forward. When you drill a hole into a wall you need to apply preasure on the drill first. As long as the wall acts force against the drill, the drill is "pushed back". If you drill all the way through the wall, there is no more force that pushed against the drill/auger and the drill pulls itself "into the wall". But as the pellets come down in a constant stream there is always enough preasure that applies force against the drill so that it never pulls itself to the front but pushes itself constantly to the back.
I have question about the servo. Using this blue MicroServo 9G.I printed the linear acutator from erivelton over on thingiverse but I guess this also applies in principal to your servo setup.When moving the servo with the command M03 Sxxx it crashes (obviously) into the gantry of the linear actuator. How can I change the overall maximum amplitude the servo is allowed to do? i.E. from minimum 0° to maximum 45°?My second questions is about a humming noise I hear from my servo when I sent an M03 S40 command. It moves and stops but then there is a relatively loud humming noise comming from the servo. How can I solve this? Does this have something to do with PWM and Hz ?
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Sure sure. As I wrote this I also wondered if I had ever killed a driver. Computer says no. :)I am now really thinking about getting such a sbase board. Looks rad and seducing. Arrrr
Why did you switch to the Sbase board? I could imagine the connectors could come in handy compared to the pin headers on the ramps. Oh and as I am reading the description it also has 8825 drivers. Have some of these laying around here, too. To bad the drivers are soldered to the board in case of magic smoke. But I couldn't see the potentiometers for the drivers on the board. They say "the stepper motor current is directly set, without the need to worry about the adjustment of the current damage to drive or potentiometer" Does this mean what I think it means. That the current is set automatically or what?I really would like to read about your experience with the new board.
Ah yes! Of course. The drivers only produce heat when they control the steppers and the controller cooler only turns on when heat needs to be dissipated. Smart. Thanks!
Hey there,thanks for putting this up since every other source on the internet is really a kind of bs.So let me clarify this: If I want to use two fans whereas one fan cools the print dynamically via the slicer and one fan cools the extruder body from keeping it getting jammed I need to use this RRD fan extender as the RAMPS board is else not able to control the extruder fan without a inserted MOSFET mod?So in summary I connect the extender to RAMPS. Connect the extruder fan thats starts at 50c to D4 or D5 or D6 and the print cooling fan to D9?And what is meant with this "Simply move one of your axes and see how the fan starts up" in the last step? I haven't figured out why a/the/(which????) fan should start spinning when the steppers are running?!?
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