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Couple of tips for this method. You can remove the drill bit from most hole saws, meaning there will be no center hole in your patch. Additionally, and especially for walls with thick paint layers, I score the surrounding paint/paper of the wall with a razor and peel up the paper of the wall where my patch is going, helps reduce the amount of feathering/sanding to get the final work flush.
Couple of suggestions for this awesome idea:1) Make the spring tube longer or cut the spring shorter, and store extra flints inside the spring tube itself, stack so they replace themselves when used up.2) Instead of glueing a homemade loop to your screw, get a small eye bolt for 1 less point of glueing/breakage.I really like this idea! Could even go with 3/4 inch copper pipe and caps for more storage and only slightly increase the size of the overall tube. Good job!
Thanks! My hope is anyone else with this fan and issue will be able to find this 'able and save a lot of headache. I literally spent 4+ hours completely uninstalling and testing my fan last night unnecessarily. As it's mounted on an 8ft down rod and 10ft off the ground (vaulted ceilings), no easy task.
Easy solution for a 56 inch...View Instructable »
My only concern would be this method should only be used for an area where there will be no pressure or weight placed on the patch. Good for a random home in an unusual location, but if the hike is from a door knob hitting the wall, hanging a picture, etc there is a good chance of the patch failing in the future. I would use pressure treated wood for the backing or cut the hole wide enough that you can anchor to studs on either side in those cases. Great tips though!
Better Call Saul demonstrated this technique perfectly
I bet dry ice would work better without the humidity, but requires having to go purchase the dry ice first
One could cut a flap for access, and use frozen ice packs instead of liquid water to reuse and reduce humidity. Or not glue the fan in place. This was my first observation as well.
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