K'nex Innovators Contest - Information

Alright, so Oblivitus and I are trying to kickstart the community back up. We have three planned ways to do it so far. First, we're making a wiki of guides to all the different parts of K'nex weapon building to try and aid newbs. Secondly, we're gonna go on a mass advertising campaign across other websites and wherever possible to encourage new people to try K'nexing. Finally, we'll be holding a series of challenges in a grand contest to encourage innovation. The format for these will be simple: we'll present you a concept, you all go out and try to make the best build of that concept possible. The idea here is that not only will we try to innovate, but we'll try to perfect one concept at a time instead of just dabbing here and there, sweeping promising, yet underdeveloped concepts under the rug. We'll mix up the challenges as need be, such as allowing teams for more complicated builds, perhaps extending time limits, etc. Else, we're hoping to keep pumping out the challenges at a steady rate and see who can win the most. Perhaps we'll eventually have one final grand challenge with a bigger prize. So I'm simply curious who we all got here so far that'll participate. Just post with what you think the time limit should be for each challenge. Again, the idea is to allow enough time to perfect concepts but be steadily producing these concepts. So, do you think one week, for example, would be adequate? We'll adjust time limits as need be, but I figured we'd set a default so that you know what to expect. Also, if you would like to suggest any concepts, I'll add them to a nominations list. You can nominate as many as you want. For each challenge, you'll be allowed one vote for those on the nomination list and then we'll tackle the concept with the most votes for the next challenge. Nominations: -Nada, suggest something, anything, though I'd request some thought and nothing impossible sounding. By the way, if any veterans would like to help edit the Wiki, join at wikispaces.com and send me your username there. I'll add you to the members list so you can edit articles. I require only those who can create quality, objective pages. Grammar should be near perfect and there should be absolutely no opinions.

Posted by TheDunkis 6 years ago


Arduino-Based Solar Heater for My Above Ground Pool

A few weeks ago I grabbed the garden hose to top off the pool and noticed how hot the water was as it came out. (the hose had been lying in the sun). So, I decided to put it to good use. We've been looking at solar heaters for the pool but found the prices prohibitive, and being a DIY'er I decided to build my own. I have 50' of black, tangle-free hose coiled on a 2' by 4' piece of Wolmanized, 3/4" plywood. This is perched on top of an 8' 4by4 post which I sunk into the ground near the pool's filter. To feed the hose I installed a faucet in the filter's return line which is under sufficient pressure to travel up and into the hose. The other end comes down to an electric valve before emptying back into the pool. The Arduino portion of the project consists of an Arduino Uno board, a DS18B20 temperature sensor probe, a 12-volt, 3-amp power supply, A small prototype board that holds two 12-volt relays and two 2N3904 transistors which the Arduino triggers, two 12-volt car-type relays which are triggered by the smaller ones, and a Mallory Sonalert. My idea was to have the Arduino monitor the temperature in the return line from the solar hose coil, and when it reaches 80 degrees F, the Sonalert goes off for 5 seconds to warn swimmers that hot water will be coming out of the return spout in the pool. And after the warning sounds, the electric valve then opens for 2 minutes, flushing the warmed water into the pool. Since the system is driven by the pool's filter, the solar hose is replenished during this flush period, and when the valve closes, that new water is then heated, and the whole process starts over. The Arduino code consists of a couple libraries to incorporate and read the temp' probe's output, a subroutine which tests both the Sonalert and the valve when the system is first plugged in, and then the necessary code in the Void Loop section which simply waits for the temp' to reach a preset level and then sound the alert and then open the valve.The system is built into an 8" by 6" electrical box that mounts on the 4 by 4 post just under the solar hose panel.The systems been up and running for about a week now and I've averaged about a 2 degree rise in the pool's water temp' per day.If anyone is interested in seeing photos of the project, or the Arduino code, I'll be happy to provide. UPDATE: Here are some phots of the project...

Posted by bnelson218 8 days ago


HOORAY! MIT!

So I'm a bit late getting around to this, but last week I pretty much had the best pi day ever. MIT, being who they are, celebrated pi day by releasing admission decisions on pi day. This year, since it's the class of '15, they posted them at exactly 9:26pm (3/14, '15, 9:26). The entire day seemed to inch by soo slowly... the suspense killed me. Having been deferred from early action, I didn't want to be too hopeful, but how can you not be? MIT was my number one, but it was a complete reach. So at 9 that night, I was with some friends celebrating pi day (and preemptively celebrating our MIT rejection/acceptance.) By the time 9:26 came around... the servers had been DDoS'd. How anti-climatic... :P 15 minutes later of constant refreshing on my phone, and I finally got a page with text. For those of you who haven't had the experience, many colleges post decisions online: you can't gauge your acceptance on the size of the envelope anymore. Instead, you stare at a letter on the screen for 30 seconds, frantically skimming for some key word that reveals the answer. My jaw dropped as soon as I realized it. There was a moment of disbelief, however; I quickly tried to read as much as possible to make sure I understood correctly. I GOT IN! What followed was a blur, comprised mostly of frantic congrats, high-fives, hugs, texts, calls, facebook updates, and pi-themed-cupcakes-in-the-face. (blasphemous pastries, I know)  WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO! I did, however, completely forget to post the news HERE! I know I haven't participated much in the community in the last few years, but before that, Instructables was huge in getting me interested in everything. There's just way too many awesome people doing awesome things. Heck, when I met Muffin, and saw him get into MIT, I had no idea that in 3 years we'd be starting a company together.  So yeah. I've been really excited recently. There are so many ideas I've wanted to instructablize recently... but haven't really had the time. (The time machine doesn't work that well yet either). Although I haven't posted or commented, I've still been lurking a bit :-) [img]

Posted by zachninme 7 years ago


(newsletter) Cobweb Shooter, Lightsabers, Isolating Splenda...

Oct 16, 2008 Sign-up for this newsletter: function openSubscribePopUp(src){ var emailValidate = /\w{1,}[@][\w\-]{1,}([.]([\w\-]{1,})){1,3}$/ if(emailValidate.test(src.value) == false){ alert("Please enter correct email"); return; } window.open("/newsletter/newslettersignup?email=" + src.value,"newslettersignup1","status=yes,scrollbars=yes,resizable=yes,width=420,height=250"); } Welcome back! The Party Like It's 1929! Contest has begun! With the economy in the toilet we need to find clever ways to save money, live with less, and reuse what we've got. Remember the Great Depression? We can definitely do better this time around. Share your cash-stretching tips and tricks, and win something useful! The DIY Halloween Contest is underway! We've partnered with some of your favorite websites to bring you the biggest and best Halloween contest ever -- and we've got tons of great prizes to give away. Show us your best costumes, treats, gadgets, jack-o-lanterns, and more! Check out the entries and get inspired for the best Maker holiday ever. Enter your food or kitchen-gadget hack into the Hungry Scientist Contest and win your choice of a Kitchen Aid mixer, a super nice knife set, or a Le Creuset Enamel Cast Iron Cook Set. Help us with your answers for our Burning Questions and win a cool prize pack! The winners for the Craft Skills Contest have been announced. See who won!Live near San Francisco or planning a trip? Stop by for one of our build nights and make something awesome in our office! October 23: Halloween open build night. Mirrored Disco Ball Halloween Costume by atozfriendly DIY R-STRAP for DSLRs by amyles World Egg by pixelinabitmap Papermate Boom for Bluetooth Headset by CobyHoff Tons and tons of spooky and amazing prizes!Win some sweet tools for your kitchen with a food hack! Creepy Cobweb Shooter! by Kipkay Camera mount for a motorcycle by kaptaink_cg Low Cost Jacob's Ladder by bloomautomatic The $1 Waterbrush / Ink Brushpen by El Rey Make your own lightsaber! by nagle Make a House Goblin Peeker by cudubh Canning Tomatoes: Roasted Salsa by Forkable Hellboy Good Samaritan replica by peter.p.scherr 10 Instructables for aradical new look Share your best money-saving tips! Halloween Bloodbath Fountain by DIYDragon Add rapid-fire to a mouse with a 555 by mothflavour2 Carve patterns on an emu egg by bbstudio How To Isolate Splenda by Mongpoovian Now go make something awesome, and I'll see you next week! - Eric Sign-up for this newsletter: function openSubscribePopUp(src){ var emailValidate = /\w{1,}[@][\w\-]{1,}([.]([\w\-]{1,})){1,3}$/ if(emailValidate.test(src.value) == false){ alert("Please enter correct email"); return; } window.open("/newsletter/newslettersignup?email=" + src.value,"newslettersignup2","status=yes,scrollbars=yes,resizable=yes,width=420,height=250"); }

Posted by fungus amungus 9 years ago


(newsletter) Cheap Welding, Squid Hat, Telekinetic Pen...

Dec 11, 2008 Sign-up for this newsletter: function openSubscribePopUp(src){ var emailValidate = /\w{1,}[@][\w\-]{1,}([.]([\w\-]{1,})){1,3}$/ if(emailValidate.test(src.value) == false){ alert("Please enter correct email"); return; } window.open("/newsletter/newslettersignup?email=" + src.value,"newslettersignup1","status=yes,scrollbars=yes,resizable=yes,width=420,height=250"); } Welcome back! Get your tools ready for the biggest building competition of the year!The Craftsman Workshop of the Future Contest is open to any project that uses tools. Share your amazing ideas, and win a $20,000 Sears gift card! Craftsman is also giving you the chance to show off your workspace in the Workshop of the Future Contest: Show Your Space contest! Simply post pictures of your current space, or the space you wish you hand, and you're entered to win a weekly Craftsman tool prize! See who won this week!This is the last week to submit your best creation powered by AA, AAA, C, or D batteries for the SANYO eneloop Battery Powered Contest! The contest closes this Sunday! Homemade Holidays are here again! Decking the halls with some crafty creations? Enter them in the Homemade Holidays: Holiday Decorations Contest and win a sweet Dremel kit! Sending personalized cards to friends and loved ones? Enter them in the the Homemade Holidays: Holiday Card Contest and win some cool prizes! See who won a prize in the Homemade Holidays: Holiday Treats Contest! We've worked out a special deal for the Instructables community to get the Telekinetic Pen Kit from the Maker Shed for 20% off until Dec. 19. After ordering, use this coupon code to get the discount: TELEPEN Telekinetic Pen! by Kipkay Chocolate Peppermint Bark by canida Wearable Toy Piano by mikamika LED Projector by PuffMag1cDrag0n Any project that uses tools is eligible! Closes for entries this weekend! Cheap Welding for Punks by TimAnderson Popup Christmas Card w/ Money Pocket by belsey Water Flow Sensor and Ambient Display by staceyk Make Amazing Fire Starters by sleepismything92 Peanut Butter / Chocolate Cookie Balls by Bloonie Nintendo Keyless Entry System by action_owl Framed Color Changing LED Art by obeyken Make Your Pregnant Partner Happy by schmeese Homemade Holidays Contests Share how you send the perfect message Show off your crafty creations and win a Dremel kit! Glass Etched Glasses by evey5268 DIY Squid Hat by goosezilla Make a City Storyteller's Backpack by faizzohri Make Borax Crystal Decorations by otterhopdotcom Now go make something awesome, and I'll see you next week! - Eric Sign-up for this newsletter: function openSubscribePopUp(src){ var emailValidate = /\w{1,}[@][\w\-]{1,}([.]([\w\-]{1,})){1,3}$/ if(emailValidate.test(src.value) == false){ alert("Please enter correct email"); return; } window.open("/newsletter/newslettersignup?email=" + src.value,"newslettersignup2","status=yes,scrollbars=yes,resizable=yes,width=420,height=250"); }

Posted by fungus amungus 9 years ago


Is evolution over?

Geneticist Professor Steve Jones has said that human evolution may be over, and that we may now, as a species, be on the slippery slope to extinction.He's not saying evolution in general has stopped, just ours.His theory is that our development and exploitation of technology has de-coupled human development from natural selection. Conditions which would have meant an early grave for our ancestors, through starvation or other side-effects, are now barely considered as inconvenient, let alone life-threatening.Personally, suffering asthma and 8 dioptres of short-sight, I would have quickly starved to death in our hunter-gatherer days, unable to keep up with prey animals or to see well enough to tell "nutritious" from "poisonous".What this means is that we have a rate of survival to age 21 that is almost 100%, double what it was in ancient times.At the same time, our supporting technologies, particularly in medicine, mean that there is a growing accumulation of deleterious genetic conditions in the general gene pool.Increases in world travel have also meant that the differences between different human populations, already low, are getting smaller, as openness and acceptance of other cultures has started to homogenise our phenotype.The result - we are isolated from natural evolutionary pressures, so there is nothing to stimulate natural selection, nothing to weed out potentially-dangerous mutations. We are stagnating.So, what next?On the one hand, the pessimistic view is that, at some point, our genome will become so laden with hazardous mutations that we will cease to be viable as a species. We will be unable to reproduce successfully.On the other hand, maybe other species, still closely linked with natural selection, will continue to evolve until they supplant us. The obvious choices are chimps and gorillas - if we don't drive them to extinction.Or maybe our heirs are currently underwater - dolphins, maybe? Or maybe they won't be mammals - octopus and squid are highly intelligent. Heck, even slime moulds have been shown to be capable of solving mazes!On the gripping hand, maybe we've out-evolved evolution? The optimist in me hopes that technology will out-pace the fuse on the genetic timebombs we have become. Maybe medicine will be able to edit our DNA, or write it afresh, truly triumphing over nature?Article stimulated by this BBC blog entry.Other linked news items.

Posted by Kiteman 9 years ago


Carbon Button Lamp

The Nikola Tesla group forum is asking for new projects, so I'm posting this as a suggestion. I would love to build it myself, but I lack the tools and money. This is my first contribution to Instructables, so please comment constructively. Nikola Tesla invented the Carbon Button lamp as a kind of incandescent light, because Thomas Edison banned him from using his incandescent filament bulbs. Nikola later discovered that versions of it could also be used in wireless, trans-Atlantic telegraphy, and to investigate what we now call x rays. In fact, he even used the lamp (or something similar to it) to take x-ray photographs, 8 years before Wilhelm Rotgen discovered them.For this reason, I must warn you: this device may possibly generate x rays. I am not responsible for any harm of any kind that may or may not result from re-creating this interesting device. There are phosphors that you can buy that will absorb x rays and re-emit them as visible light. I recommend that you coat the bulb with it until you know for sure that the x rays aren't strong enough to hurt you, or if makes x rays at all. Mixing it with a phosphor made for uv light wouldn't hurt either. Theory of Operation:The bulb is powered by a Tesla Coil, or other source of high voltage, high frequency current, such as a driver for a plasma globe (actually, the modern plasma globe is descended from this kind of technology!)When the power is turned on, electricity bombards the carbon button. Because carbon isn't the best conductor, this causes the button to heat and release electrons into the bulb's vacuum (the technical name for this is "thermionic emission," or the "Edison effect") . These electrons, in turn, excite the remaining air molecules and cause them to create visible light. This is strikingly similar to how fluorescent lamps work!Supposedly, the bulb should shine 10 times brighter than an incandescent bulb.(Note that the excitation of the air molecules, not the incandescence of the button, is actually the main source of light from the bulb.)If anyone decides to build it, please post an instructable showing the steps and finished product. I suggest you get started by reading the patent, number 514,170. You may also want to read part of Tesla's lecture, "Experiments with Alternate Currents of High Potential and High Frequency."To anyone who will attempt this, I wish you good luck!

Posted by ElectricUmbrella 9 years ago


Spark.io NOV Build Night @ Cairo Hackerspace : Introduction to The Internet of Things (IoT)

Introduction to The Internet of Things (IoT) Cairo Hackerspace always used to introduce the latest cutting-edge technology to Egypt and sharing this knowledge with everyone since 2009. Arduino/open-hardware workshops since 2010 , the first open source 3d printer , the first 3d printing services and workshops , Virtual Reality workshops and different workshops in other areas of life. THIS month we are introducing for the first time in Egypt a new promising trend in technology that involves everyTHING around us , everyONE and every AREA in our life from agriculture, manufacturing, arts, business, technology, education to health and environment . It is called “ The Internet of Things ! ” In this Practical course you will learn : -What Is Internet of Things? -What can the Internet of Things Do for Us? -IoT around us -Issues Around IoT -IoT enabling technologies and Architecture -IoT opportunities in Egypt for startups and entrepreneurs -Getting started with IoT using Spark Core Cairo Hackerspace IoT competition : 1st place : Spark Maker Kit *worth 99$ 2nd place: Spark Core *worth 39$ 3rd place: Surprise! *worthless!! *Gifts are supplied by Spark.io and Instructables About Spark Core: https://www.spark.io/ Registration: http://goo.gl/forms/OjfVDjGGan Prerequisites: Laptop. Registration policy: We are applying first-come-first serve basis , therefore early registration is encouraged. The course maximum attendees is 10 persons. The Course will be REPEATED for TWO WEEKS to give everyone a chance to attend , our registrar will respond to you within one week to confirm your final date. Time: 2 days course: -Early reg.: 20/11/2014 from 5:00 pm till 8:00 pm , 21/11/2014 from 2:00 pm till 6:00 pm. -1st repeat : 27/11/2014 from 5:00 pm till 8:00 pm , 28/11/2014 from 2:00 pm till 6:00 pm. -2nd repeat: 4/12/2014 from 5:00 pm till 8:00 pm , 5/12/2014 from 2:00 pm till 6:00 pm. Place: Cairo Hackerspace ,Townhouse building, 2nd floor Address : 10 Nabrawy Street, off Champollion Street, Downtown Cairo, Egypt Contact: Email: cairohackerspace@gmail.com

Posted by ToutHackAmon 3 years ago


Help (advice) with building a Nautilus

I believe that nature in itself has the solution for all our problems . I believe that a combination of mechanical engineering and marine biology (marine comparative bio-mechanics) can provide a new scope of development . I have always been fascinated and intrigued by marine animals which have survived billions of years and great changes of the Earth . ( eg . nautilus)  [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nautilus ] . Its my understanding that this cephalopod has the most effective and energy conversant method of locomotion. It uses water jet propulsion for motion and uses the air cavities inside its shell for buoyancy  . These mechanisms of locomotion can be studied and modified for creation of low-speed , high-efficiency underwater locomotives . The Nautilus v.1 is a fusion of both biomechanics and state of the art electronics. It uses the habitual and operational features of the living fossil nautilus. The living nautilus is the sole inspiration reason for this underwater utility simply because of its magnificence. It has survived for millions of years in the open oceans which is a remarkable feat in itself but surprisingly it makes a daily trip of 150-200m from the ocean bottom to the surface nocturnally for feeding. Even though Nautilus v.1 uses many of the systems used by underwater rovs , it stands a class apart by achieving partial autonomy . The Nautilus v.1 is far superior from its rivals such as openrov, sea perch, etc. because of its low power consumption and longevity. It attains this by excluding power consuming components like propellers. Its operation is completely on the basis of neutral buoyancy attained by productions of gas bubbles by simple water electrolysis. The gas bubbles are collected in different gas chambers for operation at different water levels. The salinity of sea water facilitates water electrolysis and more gas can be produced with less currents. Graphite electrodes are used to prevent electrode corrosion. The electronics part is still under discussions for an optimum control unit. This will act as the base for addition of sensors and locomotive systems. Currently the main two platforms under work are the beaglebone black and the android versions. Both have their own advantages and disadvantages. Beaglebone would be optimum for component level additions, such as sensors can be added on, whereas in the case of an android system such as a smartphone, most of the sensors are inbuilt and their raw data can be attained. For progress till now, please visit http://opennautilus.wordpress.com/

Posted by cecilj 3 years ago


Sharp Tactical Folding Pocket Knife from Budgetgadgets

Sharp Tactical Folding Pocket Knife Everybody needs knifes, wether it is for a project here, cutting your apple, or just for fun. Budgetgadgets is a fairly new company that takes operates in the free delivery market. The item that I will be reviewing today is a knife, folding release, of reasonable size. When closed it measures approx. 5 inches, when opened it is about 8. The knife is completely made out of stainless metal, and the actual blade is coated in a black substance, for a sleek look. There is a very narrow slice of uncoated metal, which is the actual edge of the blade. The coating has the same colour as the handle. The blade has a proper thickness, and is rigid. Now for the actual review. I will judge the blade on several fronts: Construction quality, appearance, ease of handling and cutting abilities. Construction quality As soon as you get a hold of this knife it feels very sturdy, and has a nice complete finished look. The coating on the blade is nice and even without imperfections. Opening the knife is very smooth, and the locking system works very well. All is operated by one hand easily. Only downside is that is isnt locked when closed. This doesnt bother me though; as I keep it in the pouch that it came with when not in use. There is no wiggle room between the blade and the handle. Appearance Its a matter of taste, but as far as Im concerned it looks great. The knife is entirely made out of good materials, which make it look valuable. The unpainted metal parts are partially brushed, and the black handle had a nice textured surface which looks sturdy. Ease of use As I said before, the knife is easily operated with one hand. Considering the handle of the blade is slightly larger than usual, this knife is operated by larger hands than average ones easily. Its also able to transfer more force to the blade by having a larger handle. Cutting abilities This is what its al about in the end, how well does it cut. A test with a piece of paper works flawless, the knife just glides right through without ripping the paper, and leaves a very clean cut. Plastic is cut with ease to, all on factory sharpness. Cutting fruits is somewhat harder, considering the increasing thickness of the blade, meat on the other hand is very easy to cut. Overall score A knife that offers outstanding value for a small price. For only 7,64$ including shipping this knife comes to your home. Grade: 9,5/10

Posted by Centurion_NL 9 years ago


Instructables Show & Tell- in our town, and yours

Come to the first Instructables Show & Tell this March! We've scheduled a few to get you started, but need volunteers to host Show & Tells in your town! Check out the Forum post for more details, then get in touch with me.LOCATIONS: Bay Area Instructables, Friday 9 March, 7pm2175 Monarch St, Alameda, CA directionsRSVP: canida(*at*) instructables.com Boston Area MITERS, Saturday 10 March, 7pm265 Massachusetts Ave, Cambridge, MA directionsMost of the Instructables & Squid Labs founders built things at MITERS when they were in school; it's a neat clubhouse full of people who love to make fun things. They've got an Instructables group to show some of them off. NOTE: Please don't bring beer or wine as this event is on the MIT campus. Austin dorkbot Saturday, 10 March, 6-8pmBrush Square Park at 5th and Neches map(electronic art) Come to a special dorkbot during the SXSW Interactive Festival! We'll have a carnival style presentation of mad science fun spread across stations around the tent. Between scheduled presentations, show off your own project and get 30 seconds on the mike to tell the crowd about your demented electronic pursuits before being unceremoniously buzzed off the stage by 20,000 volts of raw power! Enormously raw POWER! Brush Square Park is adjacent to the Austin Convention Center, host of SXSW.Mandatory RSVP here or email rsvp@dorkbotaustin.org New York Etsy Labs Thursday, 22 March, 7pm325 Gold St., 6th Floor, Brooklyn, NY mapHosted by Etsy, MAKE, & Create Digital Music Atlanta Taco Mac Perimeter Friday, 30 March 8pm1211 Ashford Crossing, Atlanta, GA mapRSVP: jenny (*at*) hackaddict.net Orlando Panera Friday, 23 March 6pm11472 University Blvd., Orlando, FL mapRSVP: PM trebuchet03 or or send him email @gmail.com Savannah Thursday, 22 March, 7pmLocation TBARSVP: PM royalestelYour City Here?Volunteer to host now! Libraries, schools, and other community venues will often let you reserve space. Just send me a personal message or an email and we'll coordinate.

Posted by canida 11 years ago


Smoke detector and ozone generators / air purifiers

I recently made a quite disturbing discover and thought I share it here so other are aware of it. We all love to protect ourself in case of a fire and the first and most vital of the information chain is a working smoke detector. In my house I had the old type installed, based on a radioactive isotope that detect smoke through ionisation. The newer types working optical or using combined optical and isonisation detection should perform better - but does not really matter for this "warning". If you do have pets, smoke in the house or just do a lot of cooking you might also use one of these fancy air purifiers that use Ozone to clean the air in your room. I only have a tiny unit for a fish tank that I also use to remove smells from my work clothes or purify some water for the plants. My discovery started with a simple cooking exercise involving a lot of onions, garlic and a big wok. To avoid filling the house for days with the smells I had the ozone generator running as well. At some stage I noticed that the whole kitchen was covered in the fumes from the cooking, nicely visible from the hallway - like fog. To my surprise the smoke detector did not the usual alarm but performed fine with the test button. So I blew some cigarette smoke directly at it - still no reaction. Next day I started to investigate and was prepared to buy a new detector but whatever I used, smoke, steam or just killing a burning candle underneath cause the alarm to go off. Then it hit me: The ozone! A quick test with the hose of the ozone generator next to the smoke detector and no matter what I blew in it the device staed silent. Ozone is ionized oxygen, the detector uses the ionized particels from the radioactive material to detect smoke. Smoke or very fine dust / steam will bind the ionized particles forcing the electronics to sound an alarm because the sensor no longer detects the ionized particles. With enough ozone entering the detector there will be always enough ionization to prevent the alarm. Conclusion: If you do use ozone in your house upgrade your smoke detector to a model that uses optical AND ionisation detection! Otherwise there is a good chance that the device is unable to detect a fire. Of course chance are slim that you would use the ozone while sleeping and a fire starts, but if it does....

Posted by Downunder35m 3 years ago


Making The Most Of Your Time Here

If you're reading this, you're hopefully about to become an AiR in the best workshop on earth. Congratulations! This is an amazing opportunity, and i'd like to share my experiences so that you can hopefully glean some wisdom. When I got here, I was quickly humbled. For the first time in my life, I was intimidated. I had never been in such a vast playground and wealth of resources. I put myself under a lot of pressure. I started with some smaller projects that ended up taking a lot longer than anticipated. I did everything the hard way. During this time I formed a great relationship with shop staff, and gained a deep respect for them. A month will go by and you will look back and wonder where it all went. There are a million distractions, and it's a tough game to balance them all. In my last two months, I decided I needed to pick a problem to solve. I bit off more than I could chew, and I chewed it. I did something a bit unconventional, and did a project on sustainability. I was in over my head, and I brought in a friend for help. And i'm really glad I did. Don't constrain yourself to being an 'artist'. You are about to immerse yourself deep in the heart of the maker movement. Make things that you will be proud of, that you can do nowhere else.  This is an nearly infinite opportunity, with the only limiting factor being time. You are skilled enough, have the aptitude, and can do absolutely anything. So what on earth do you make?  Quick Tips: -Pick a problem, and solve it.  Pick a problem that's bigger than one person.  -Don't shackle additional commitments during this time. (I burnt out from a big side project) Devote yourself to the shop. -Reach out to someone at Autodesk, and see if you can get mentorship, or use your art to inform things that they are interested in. Form a relationship with them. You will find wisdom and friendship. -Find a peer, and check in regularly about the scope of your work.  -Pick someone to collaborate on a big project with. Make someone else's dream come true.  -Space out your classes. Don't do it all at once, or you'll forget what that critical button on the DMS is.  Time Breakdown: 33% of your time goes towards collaboration 33% towards learning new stuff that's way above your comfort level 33% for the stuff you can do with your eyes closed

Posted by buchananwp 3 years ago


Wireless energy transfer and resonant coupling?

I am getting a bit sick and tired of frying expensive parts, entire coils and sitting in stinking smoke for hours, so time to gather some new ideas from you guys ;) Problem as short as possible: I am working on wireless energy transmission. Not with the usualy distances we know from charging pads or electric toothbrushes though, I am aiming for 30cm and more of distance here. After endless hours wasted on testing different coil designs I think I got that one nailed quite good but the thing is that I seem to be unable to keep resonance under load. The coils require a very tiny window for the right operating frequency in the 40kHz range or for the other design in the 150kHz region. When the frequency shifts more than 3 or 4kHz from the resonant point the efficiency drops to useless. Since this entire thing is planned to be as simple as possible so everyone can do it I would like to prevent complicated electronics. The few I need so far are done through ready to use modules. Of course a microcontroller would be the most obvious choice here but that does not fit in as I like "old school" for this one. Two ways I considered so far with more or less success: a) Fixed frequency feed and limited output power. This works actually quite well but only allows for tiny power levels like charging a mobile phone or tablet if you have some time. Problem however is that load changes affect the frequency and without a link back to the sender the efficiency goes down and not enough energy reaches the receiver for usage. b) ZVS driven coil. So far this approach gives the best output power but also uses huge amounts of juice. Good to make a fancy glass stand for your TV and supply the power through a hidden receiver in the base of the TV but since there is no limit or link between sender and receiver it is full power only. Is there a really simple way to provide a limited amount of power together with automatic resonance keping? Next one might be a bit tricky: Is there a simple way to increase the harmonic frequencies? As we know every simple oscillator also creates and reacts to the corresponding harmonic frequencies. On the sender's side I would like to be able to not just feed the primary frequency but also one of the harmonic frequencies with a similar power level. Again without a microcontroller or extensive electronics where possible.

Asked by Downunder35m 1 year ago


Dual H-Bridge Motor Driver - L298N not given enough power to motors

Hi there, am very new to the electronics community, I recent bought my first arduino. I wanted to build me own RC car, so I bought Dual H-Bridge Motor Driver L298N Module from ebay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dual-H-Bridge-Motor-Driver-L298N-Module-For-Arduino-PIC-DC-Stepper-L298-Board-/251291436187?pt=UK_BOI_Industrial_Automation_Control_ET&hash=item3a8223049b) I think I have connected everything correctly but somehow the 2 dc motors connected to the motor driver don't seem to move, I have tried a 9v battery to power the motor shield but doesn't seem to do anything. I  used this diagram do the connection to the arduino http://i.imgur.com/JCBcSfL.jpg The arduino itself has it own 9v battery powering it. I have checked both motors and they work fine. when i switch on the rc car the led on the motor shield blinks but the motors just don't move. I used a digital multimeter to measure the voltage going into the motor. it goes upto 0.36v  then drops. does that mean there isn't enough voltage going into the motors? and how much voltage do you recommend to get it working? Images of the rc car http://imgur.com/K7zff2G http://imgur.com/9kaWQBy http://imgur.com/OEidI90 http://imgur.com/lnpjvNM http://imgur.com/izgDEtY http://imgur.com/tqhdQVv The code am running on the arduino //motor A int dir1PinA = 2; int dir2PinA = 3; int speedPinA = 9; //motor B int dir1PinB = 4; int dir2PinB = 5; int speedPinB = 10; unsigned long time; int speed; int dir; void setup(){   pinMode(dir1PinA,OUTPUT); pinMode(dir2PinA,OUTPUT); pinMode(speedPinA,OUTPUT); pinMode(dir1PinB,OUTPUT); pinMode(dir2PinB,OUTPUT); pinMode(speedPinB,OUTPUT); time = millis(); speed = 0; dir = 1; } void loop(){     analogWrite(speedPinA, speed);   analogWrite(speedPinB,255 - speed);     //set direction   if(1 == dir){     digitalWrite(dir1PinA, LOW);     digitalWrite(dir2PinA, HIGH);     digitalWrite(dir1PinB, HIGH);     digitalWrite(dir2PinB, LOW);   }else{     digitalWrite(dir1PinA, HIGH);     digitalWrite(dir2PinA, LOW);     digitalWrite(dir1PinB, LOW);     digitalWrite(dir2PinB, HIGH);   }     if(millis() - time > 5000){     time = millis();     speed += 20;     if(speed > 255){       speed = 0;     }     if(1 == dir){       dir = 0;     }else{       dir = 1;     }   }   }

Posted by Raphael1 4 years ago


Arduino code sensor and moving wheel with encoder help with code

I'm still new at this but I been trying to figure this out for awhile now and can't seem to get it to work how I want it to. If  anyone can help or give advice on how I can go about doing this would be great. Thanks #include       const int BUTTON = A5;              // push button for starting       const int RIGHT_SERVO = 10;       const int LEFT_SERVO = 11;       Servo leftServo;       Servo rightServo;       int valButton;       int turnOnOff=0;             // the val of the pull up button is set to zero to start with             volatile int Lindex = 0;             void setup()       {         attachInterrupt(0,ltEncoderInterrupt,RISING);         Serial.begin(9600);         leftServo.attach(LEFT_SERVO);         rightServo.attach(RIGHT_SERVO);         leftServo.write(1500);         rightServo.write(1500);       }       void loop()       { Serial.println(turnOnOff);         turnOnOff=readButton();      // calls the function readButton to see if the button has been pressed(1)         int sensorValue = analogRead(A0);         if(turnOnOff==1)         {           if (sensorValue           {           delay(500);                  leftServo.write(1700);           rightServo.write(1300);                              }           else if (sensorValue >300)           {                     // It stop when it detect a black electrical tape.           leftServo.write(1500);           rightServo.write(1500);            Lindex = 0;           delay(500);             }                                // can't seem to get it to work it keep moving backward           {                     }           leftServo.write(1300);           rightServo.write(1700);                     while (Lindex           {                     }           turnOnOff = 0;           Lindex = 0;         }                 else         {           leftServo.write(1500);           rightServo.write(1500);                  }        }             /************* Subroutine for reading the button switch********************/       int readButton()       {         unsigned long contactTime;               //local variable; contactTime declared         valButton=analogRead(BUTTON);            // Read the pushbutton on an analog pin         if(valButton>512)                        // Since 5V will produce a value of 1023,          return turnOnOff;                       // return the value of turnOnOff without changing it         contactTime=millis();                    // set contactTime = to the millis() clock value         while(valButton         {                   // while the pushbutton is pushed           valButton=analogRead(BUTTON);           // read the button value again and keep reading until valButton is less than 512         }         if(millis()-contactTime          return turnOnOff;                       // return the turnOnOff value unchanged          return(1-turnOnOff);                      // if the button is held longer than 20 ms then change the turnOnOff                                                  // to the opposite value to what it was       }       /////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////             /******************ISR for wheel count**************************************/       void ltEncoderInterrupt()       {                Lindex++;       }       ///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

Posted by al2tistic 1 year ago


Help me make shiftOut faster (Arduino Function) Answered

I'm making a clock and I need an Attiny85 to output a "big" amount of data to a series of two shift registers. Using the shiftOut function that comes with the arduino lags the whole program down, making the clock annoying to the eye and reducing it's brightness.  I managed to reduce the lag a bit by substituting the digitalWrite functions from the whole program and creating a new function called shiftOutFast to replace the existing one, where I replaced two digitalWrite functions since I couldn't figure out much more.  void shiftOutFast(uint8_t dataPin, uint8_t clockPin, uint8_t bitOrder, byte val) {      for (i = 0; i could I change this to 16?            if (bitOrder == LSBFIRST)                  digitalWrite(dataPin, !!(val & (1            else                       digitalWrite(dataPin, !!(val & (1 //I guess here I should replace the 7 by a 15?                             PORTB |= _BV(PB0);                                         //there was a digitalWrite here            PORTB &= ~_BV(PB0);                                     //and also here (I believe this is called Port Manipulation)      } } This is the normal way I use the function, this whole operation is repeated 5 times, one for each digit position on the display and another one for the dots in the middle. As you can see I use it two times since shiftOut can only output 8 bits at a time. PORTB &= ~_BV(PB1); //latchPin low shiftOutFast(dataPin, clockPin, MSBFIRST, 8); //the values for the second shift register are sent first, this determines the digit that will be lit (1,2,3,4th position or the dots) shiftOutFast(dataPin, clockPin, MSBFIRST, numbers2[m]); //then pushed in place by the first one, this determines the number PORTB |= _BV(PB1); //LatchPin high //maybe I could reduce it to only one shiftOutFast (see 2nd question) I've reached the apex of what my programming skills can let me do, so I'll just simply ask two questions: Can I further optimize this function? I could remove the if since I won't be using the LSBFIRST If I changed the 8 by a 16 and the 7 by a 15 at the "for" inside the shiftOutFast function written above, could I reduce the use to only one function sending the 16 bits? Here's the whole program for the clock for further reference (this is actually a timer since attiny's aren't reliable when counting time) I would be extremely grateful if you found some way to optimize it or sent me a hint or two. http://pastebin.com/REcvbNhy Thank you!

Asked by Victor805 2 years ago


Instructables Book

We've published a book of Instructables!Order your copy of The Best of Instructables Volume 1 here!See the latest news about The Best of Instructables Volume 1 here.I just got the contract worked out with O'Reilly Media/MAKE, who is publishing the book. Details are still being finalized, but the book will look something like this: 75 (maybe?) full Instructables and 50 (maybe?) mentions (author, intro image and text maybe?) of Instructables in a community-choice section. The Instructables in the community-choice section will be chosen by a month-long contest open to Instructables published at any point in the past. The top Instructables by votes in the contest will be included. The full Instructables will be chosen by the people at Instructables, the O'Reilly and MAKE editors, and using the results of the book contest. If your project is selected, we'll ask for your permission and give you a free copy of the book. We're hoping to have it out in time for the Austin Maker Faire in October.These details are likely to change, but I'm so excited that I wanted to share them even at this early stage. We'll do a formal announcement when we know more, so consider this your sneak-preview. Updated: Number of full Instructables from 100 to 75. 2008-07-03 Update: Right now, it looks like we'll be including approximately 50 Instructables in the community choice section of the book as chosen by our Instructables Book Contest. This section will have 8-10 Instructables per page and each Instructable will have the author, title, intro text and image. Everyone mentioned will receive a free copy. As usual we'll be eliminating fraudulent votes.75 full Instructables will be included as chosen by editors at Instructables, MAKE, and O'Reilly. Obviously, we'll be watching the results of the contest closely to make sure we didn't miss anything!Since print and internet are such different mediums, part of the selection process is finding Instructables will exceptional images and well-written text. Since any Instructable can be included, now is a great time to make sure your images are top-notch and maybe add a few more, if you can. 2008-09-01 Update: If your Instructable is in the top 50 sorted by user votes, you are definitely in the community choice section. Depending on how many of those 50 are included as full Instructables in the book, the community choice section may include more Instructables. We are working hard at getting everything organized and ready for the book launch in October.

Posted by ewilhelm 9 years ago


Maintaining a stable voltage on a wind turbine?

Every couple weeks a new instructable comes up on some green energy thing or another, but one I am really interested in is wind.  The problem I see is that with wind ranges from 5 - 25 mph, the voltage change is extremely problematic.  When I see people putting permanent magnets on alternators for use with wind, it seems ridiculous.  Even if you are using an inefficient battery-storage off-grid system, you still need to maintain 12-15 volts to charge your battery, and an alternator is made to do that by varying the magnetic power.  Now I understand the extremes of a alternator's voltage regulator are likely fairly narrow, but still quite useful in generating wind energy.  What I am looking at is 3-5kw of grid-tied power.  This is great and all, and possible in for me, but I don't see how I could maintain a stable enough input for it to work.  Most inverters are for solar power and aren't grid tied. The next most common are grid tied solar which take 12v DC and scale it to 115 ac across three phases.  Finding a grid-tie 5kw 3 phase in and out ac grid tie inverter is extremely hard, but not impossible.  The only thing that is impossible is finding one that can handle highly unstable voltages.  So the options I am left with are using a variable transformer to bring the wind power down to 12v and then rectifying it, then pumping it through an inverter which leaves me with 70 - 80 % of the original power.  My other option is to, like a car alternator vary the rotor voltage to maintain the desired end voltage.  The one problem I see with this is that there is a large amount of potential energy not tapped.  For example lets use 1 as the relative output as well as the input to generate a magnetic field.  If the speed is 1 then both in and out are 1.  If the speed is 2 then the in will be .5 now the out should stay at 1.  But if the in had remained at 1, then the out would be 2 so essentially you are losing half of your potential energy.  This isn't a problem in cars because they aren't tapping the maximum power possible. All the time, they don't need it.  This is a problem with wind turbines, so is there a way around this?  What wold you recommend to do for grid-tied wind power.

Asked by jj.inc 4 years ago


Basic electrical engineering question Answered

Although I can carve my way through data and can tell you a lot about how data is stored on various mediums, I am not the best electrical engineer, but I still do some projects for fun. I have a project that I am working to help a friend of mine who works in a climbing wall.  They had an existing siren at the top for the kids that someone broke, and wanted to switch it out to something that they could put custom sound effects on.  I happened to think of the 9V recording module at Radio Shack (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102855#tabsetBasic), and proceeded to hack it to make it more usable for their needs.  I made two different parts to it: 1.  The recording module in a project box, and 2.  A momentary switch at the top of the wall to trigger the module.  I changed the microphone on the recording module to a 1/8 in jack, sent the speaker output to a better speaker (with an amp of course), added a record button to the outside of the main project box, and created a "triggering system" by soldering a separate wire to both 1 and 2 in the picture, and then shorting it whenever I want to trigger the sound.  It worked perfectly in my shop, but when I installed it, the test trigger on the ground works, but the switch on top of the wall does not work well... it only works intermittently.  The wall is 2-stories high, so figure a 22 foot run for the wire (and I don't remember what gauge wire I used... it was just something I had laying around... but figure cheap speaker wire). My first guess was that it wasn't getting enough power from the battery, so I switched it out to a AC-DC adapter instead of the battery.  I am still having problems, so I am guessing it is too much resistance due to the long run?  (Would you agree or disagree?)  If so, is there some type of amplifying circuit that I could use to overcome this?  The only other explanation that I have is that the momentary switch that I am using at the top is pretty old and could be going bad, but I wanted to check first and see what you EEs out there think. Thanks for your help!  :) Edit: I'm sorry I am so bad at explaining this... I have uploaded my attempt at a schematic for clarification. Edit: After installing a new switch, it did work a little better, but still not 100%; so I installed the relay, which solved the problem.  Thanks to everyone who helped!  :)

Asked by thegeeke 5 years ago


Came a across a "Group" bug and I have a couple humble "Group" suggestions while I'm here.

I was recently checking up on a group I started a little while back and found that I couldn't see any of the popular Instructables in the group, and when clicking "view all" the "No Instructables yet!" message came up when there are plenty Ibles added (they are still available in the Recent Entries panel). I've attached pictures of both situations for clarification. I did try IE and Firefox to see if it was a browser issue, unfortunately it was the same in both. I tried refreshing the browsers a few times too. Should I wait a couple days to see if it'll clear up or is this a legit issue? In passing, a few suggestions that I had in regards to groups are: In the future, will we be able to see some more group functionality, like messaging all members as an example? Is there any way we could get updates on the group like: new members added, ibles added, and discussions posted? Would we be able to access the group(s) that we create from our ibles profiles [a quick link with a photo, mebe under the You or Instructables tab]? I was also wondering if when you click the "Groups" shortcut the search category could be defaulted to groups as well? The reason why I have made these suggestions is that whenever I want to check on what's happening with my group I always seem to have to go the long way around to get to it. The path I take is as follows: select group on my shorcuts-> write my group name in the search bar -> select groups from the search category and then hit enter to find the group. I can also go to You from the shortcuts -> hit the settings tab -> select groups -> then click on the group but there doesn't seem to be a faster way in. I hope no one takes my comments/suggestions the wrong way because I'm definitely a huge fan of Instructables and am extremely thankful for the entire concept. Instructables is a great site and I may be me overlooking a faster way and a few simple solutions to my other suggestions, so I'm hoping someone can correct me/point me in the right direction, or let me in on the future of "Group" improvements. Oh yes and here's a PS: I'm not going to lie, If these suggestions sound facebookish...well....they are...plus a few added ideas to make these groups better than Facebook's :)

Posted by Skater_j10 8 years ago


Brushed DC motor HP requirements for Longboard? Answered

So I have 2 brand new tilt/trim pump motors and thought about making a set of matching electric longboards since products like Boosted Boards seem to have become fairly popular.  I am not too sure whether the tilt/trim motor would be strong enough though, they are a decent size motor though.  But it got me thinking what size is required for an electric longboard? The main problem with the tilt/trim pump motors is that I can't find specs on them anywhere, just specs for tilt/trim pump assemblies they are off of, but nothing about the motor itself other then SAE J1171 Marine rating.  Because of this I thought of buying another DC motor to do the job.  (Picture of tilt/trim motor) The constraints for me is that I have a couple 12 - 24v 100A motor controllers already, for brushed motors only.  As well, I want to just pick up a couple cheap $40 12v, 24AH Sealed led-acid (SLA) batteries from the local Ace Hardware and run either a 12v or 24v motor.   Options on eBay for affordability purposes range from 12v, 24v, 90v and 180v dc, obviously 90v and 180v are out of the question.  Looking through the 12vdc and 24vdc motors, there are many fractional HP motors available.  I was looking at something like this; http://www.ebay.com/itm/172252712203?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Running 1/4 HP at 24v, would 1/4HP be enough though?  I know electric motors HP ratings are lower then petrol engines, a 6.5HP petrol go kart runs about the same as an identical kart with a 1HP electric motor. If that isn't enough I am thinking a 2/3HP motor from Holley might be better? http://www.ebay.com/itm/361524972024?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Wondering if someone has an idea for sizing.  I know lots of eBikes and Chinese electric mini bikes and things have 500W motors, so roughly 2/3HP, so I can't imagine I need more then that.  As well I don't want it to go too fast (fear of speed wobbles) but if anyone would have an idea of sizing that would be super helpful!

Asked by Electric Spectre1 1 year ago


Alarm using RTC.

Hi, I am new to arduino and RTC DS1307. I am trying to create an alarm using RTC and arduino. I have a buzzer that I have connected to arduinio and also I have connected RTC module to it. I am programming the arduino in such a way that whn the timer runs off, it produces a sound from the buzzer. I am trying to use Time.h and TimeAlarms.h libraries. I dnt know how can I make the timer buzz the buzzer.  This is the code I ve done so far.  #include #include "RTClib.h" #include #include ; RTC_DS1307 RTC; void setup () {     Serial.begin(57600);     pinMode(4, OUTPUT); // set a pin for buzzer output     Wire.begin();     RTC.begin();   if (! RTC.isrunning()) {     Serial.println("RTC is NOT running!");     // following line sets the RTC to the date & time this sketch was compiled     RTC.adjust(DateTime(__DATE__, __TIME__));   } } void loop () {       DateTime now = RTC.now();     Serial.print(now.year(), DEC);     Serial.print('/');     Serial.print(now.month(), DEC);     Serial.print('/');     Serial.print(now.day(), DEC);     Serial.print(' ');     Serial.print(now.hour(), DEC);     Serial.print(':');     Serial.print(now.minute(), DEC);     Serial.print(':');     Serial.print(now.second(), DEC);     Serial.println();     Serial.println();        delay(1000);             //Somthing sould come here to make the buzzer buzz     soundBuzzer(); //sounds the buzzer        buzz(4, 2500, 500); // buzz the buzzer on pin 4 at 2500Hz for 1000 milliseconds } // This is the function to make the buzzing void soundBuzzer(){   } //This is for the buzzer. It produces a beep. void buzz(int targetPin, long frequency, long length) {   long delayValue = 1000000/frequency/2; // calculate the delay value between transitions   //// 1 second's worth of microseconds, divided by the frequency, then split in half since   //// there are two phases to each cycle   long numCycles = frequency * length/ 1000; // calculate the number of cycles for proper timing   //// multiply frequency, which is really cycles per second, by the number of seconds to   //// get the total number of cycles to produce for (long i=0; i     digitalWrite(targetPin,HIGH); // write the buzzer pin high to push out the diaphram     delayMicroseconds(delayValue); // wait for the calculated delay value     digitalWrite(targetPin,LOW); // write the buzzer pin low to pull back the diaphram     delayMicroseconds(delayValue); // wait againf or the calculated delay value   } } I am really bad at programming so sorry for mistakes. But please I need help.

Posted by Bam Boy 5 years ago


Legality of putting airsoft gun into a real gun conversion kit??

Hey Instructables, I have a question about the legality of a project that I'm designing, as I don't want to make something illegal. As those who follow me on this site know, I play a lot of airsoft. I've recently been trying to design a new kind of airsoft rifle, and I would like a bullpup design (the magazine well is located behind the trigger to make a shorter gun). I was looking around on the net and I found this http://www.mountsplus.com/AR-15_Accessories/AR-15_Scope_Rings/MZ-1022.html   It's a bullpup conversion for your standard Ruger 10/.22 rifle. i checked the legality of this conversion for the state I live in, California, and found that it IS in fact legal, as long as you only use a 10.22 in it, don't use an automatic, your magazine contains 10 rounds or less, and the barrel over 18 inches, with an overall gun length of 25 inches. Normally bullpup guns are illegal in California, but since the 10/.22 is a rimfire instead of a centerfire, and the ban only applies to centerfire guns, this conversion falls into a neat loophole, and is legal for sale on a normal license.  HOWEVER: I don't plan on putting a 10/.22 in this thing, I plan on tearing out all the internals of the conversion rendering it permanently effectively useless for a real-steel gun, and building a field-spec airsoft gun system inside it, making it basically a nonlethal toy for sports like any other airsoft gun. The final design would be built to the legal specs of a airsoft gun in the united states, with an orange barrel tip and a non-ballistic caliber.  I can even make the final gun fit into the real steel size requirements if that would help the legality. Basically, I don't know if this is legal or not, and haven't been able to find it online. As far as I can figure, it would be legal because the conversion kit counts as a STOCK, rather than a receiver or firearm in and of itself, so that gives a lot more leeway I would think.  I just want to be doubly sure before I begin this project, due to the heightened paranoia over guns and gun laws at this point, I don't want to be thrown in jail for making a toy. 

Posted by ilpug 4 years ago


Another Star Wars?!

When I entered the lobby of our movie theater after watching the funny (yet disgusting at times) Zohan movie, I caught a glimpse of this trailer. At first, I thought it was a cartoony parody of starwars (perhaps a joke in that Panda movie, all I saw was Yoda). This could not be serious, the animation looked like something straight out of the Incredibles. After some investigation I discovered it was totally cereal. It is a trailer for a 90 minute long preview of a cartoon network series. Who would pay to go to the movies to watch a 90 minute preview?! This is the description of the youtube video:The 90-minute premiere episode of the CGI animated series Star Wars: The Clone Wars will have a limited release in U.S. cinemas starting August 15th.Not only will this be the first 3-D animated movie for the highly-successful saga, but this will also be the first Star Wars movie not released through Twentieth Century Fox. Fox released all six Star Wars movies, plus the original microseries The Clone Wars on home video.But Warner Bros. and Turner Broadcasting will release Star Wars: The Clone Wars this time. The principle reason is that Turner's and W.B.'s subsidiary, The Cartoon Network, managed to snag the rights to the series from creator George Lucas.Star Wars: The Clone Wars on The Cartoon NetworkThe new series will premiere this fall on The Cartoon Network, later airing on TNT."I felt there were a lot more Star Wars stories left to tell," said George Lucas in the press release for Star Wars: The Clone Wars. "I was eager to start telling some of them through animation and, at the same time, push the art of animation forward.""Nothing like this has ever been produced for television," said Stuart Snyder, President/COO Turner Animation,Young Adults & Kids Media. "For 30 years, Star Wars has shown that it appeals to a huge breadth of fans. Star Wars: The Clone Wars on Cartoon Network will be appointment television for everyone in the family. We're thrilled to be working with Lucasfilm again and very excited to be playing a role in bringing this remarkable adventure to viewers."The Star Wars we all know and love has been reduced to a cheap cartoon, made with the sole purpose of trying to squeeze as much money out of the name as possible. Star Wars looks like a cheap joke now, it's just sad, really.

Posted by Spl1nt3rC3ll 10 years ago


Make Your Own Fuel from Wine

Mark Armstrong's Alternative Fuel PhilosophyIf you don't like the vehicle or the fuel it drinks, make some of your ownIt's on every billboard, bumpersticker and street placard: Let's Green This City! Urban Streets Greening Project! Each election ushers in new green initiatives, task forces, and elementary school awareness fairs. Another press conference, another earthy guy in an organic-cotton denim shirt and red Crocs stands in front of City Hall pointing an accusatory finger at the uninspired plebes who won't join us, who won't dare follow San Francisco on the righteous path toward a greener tomorrow.Meanwhile, eco-conscious drivers can't get a drop of biodiesel in city limits, while Berkeley, Santa Cruz, Santa Rosa and other surrounding cities offer it at public pumps. (In June 2007, city authorities closed the San Francisco Biodiesel Co-op, for - get this - having too many members.) Not one public pump in San Francisco sells ethanol. The few electric car-charging stations that remain are defunct, rundown or hidden in corners of musty garages, forgotten relics of a well-intentioned but poorly executed past. Our performance so far in fostering alternative fuels - the keystone of the green movement - is not just ironic; it's shameful."You know the easiest job in the world is to be a cynic," says Mark Armstrong, lifting his head from the hood of an electric-powered 1980 Plymouth Horizon. "In order to be successful you have to do absolutely nothing." Armstrong brushes his oily hands against his oily jeans and walks to the back of a cavernous concrete-floored warehouse, through a maze of Frankensteinian inventions: an electrolyzer that splits hydrogen and oxygen fuel, junky gas cars that run on golf-cart batteries, gutted petrol engines that gulp alcohol and a Mercedes motor that bakes bread and spits out edible olive oil."What I'm trying to do here is teach people to quit complaining about what they can't get," he adds, pushing his 6-foot-2-inch frame beneath a gutted 1976 Porsche 914 that he and his students are converting to a hydrolic hybrid. "I say if we really want alternative fuel vehicles, let's get off the couch and start making them."Step 1: Build a Carmore

Posted by ewilhelm 10 years ago


CNC Stepper Motor and Controller Board Inquiry: What is the torque, motor size, threshold for dremel tool to engrave ?

CNC Stepper Motor and Controller Board Inquiry:Even with the extensive research and links I have visited it seems I got the cart before the horse with a bit of ebay bidding fever in purchasing my stepper motor.I just purchased 4 pieces new SHINANO KENSHI Co. ball bearing stepper motors Part # STP-42D201-36, 1.8 DEG, 200 Step/Rev, 3.7V, 3.1A/Phase, Size 17 with a 5mm shaft. I will be making a computerized dremel tool ENGRAVER (not cutter) to start. I do understand that a CNC, for cutting out shapes, requires more torque than the STP-42D201-36 will put out. I however wish to engrave, only partially cut into the surface of wood to render my artwork, some which can be seen at http://designermite.net/. These will initially consist of line work but then later I will render halftone work.I do own and work with Gerber Advantage 6.0 Premier and Omega software with Gerber HS/15 PLUS plotter creating vinyl graphics and logos that you might see on store windows, car, truck and van lettering. So I do have a working knowledge of the basic skills needed.I need help on what sort of setup I should be leaning towards that would work with my CURRENT purchase. What is the torque rating, motor size, specs threshold for dremel tool to engrave properly?Some have been very helpful via email and for that I thank you and others have just lived up to thier names of being cranky, claiming they invented everthing under the sun, with short two word sarcastic answers when I actually wished to purchase their plans.. go figure.Thank you in advance for your timecnc, stepper motor, stepper motor control board, computerized router, engraving, CNC Router Plans, cnc engraver plans, CNC http://designermite.net/Homemade Milling Machine, homemade DIY cnc mill router machine,x axis y axis z axis, GCode, Computer Numeric Control, robotic systems ,computer parallel port, step and direction, DXF, plot, plt

Asked by Designermite 8 years ago


SOLAR POWERED IP CAMERA RUN ON 3G MODEM

Hi everyone, im a new member and have a task at hand which is a puzzle to me but would probably be a breeze for u tech savvy bunch :-) Ok heres my dilemma: I have a remote location where i want to setup an IP Camera run on Solar Power. I have purchased a wireless 802.11 ip camera with pan and tilt capabilities as well as an audio in (internal mic) and an audio out (1 x audio line out interface) along with 4 alarm in and out male ports. Heres what i want to be able to do: 1. View the cam remotely via PC/Mobile Phone. 2. Utilise the Pan and Tilt capabilities 3. Have a text message/email sent to me everytime the alarm is activated/motion is detected 4. Be able to have audio in and out 5. Have the camera on standby until motion is detected 6. Have the solar power as the only source of energy for the camera and the camera to be able to run 24hrs a day (standby and in use) 7. Was also wanting the solar power to charge batteries so at night time the cam would still work or if its a cloudy day etc etc Now im thinking that i would need a modem with a sim card in it to work the internet side of things. But how would i go about getting the audio and alarm functions working? I can plug an ethernet cable into a modem and put a sim card into a modem and connect the cam and modem up to a solar power source, but where the heck do i plug the audio and alarm cables into??? In the below link theres specs on the cam as well as pics of the types of connections available on the cam. I wouldnt have a clue about Volts and Watts and amps etc so am stuck at just buying the cam which is here: http://www.aliexpress.com/fm-store/107302/211328538-491571938/Promotion-free-shipping-cctv-wirless-ip-camera-wifi-802-11-b-g-9-language-m-jpeg.html Please help ladies and gents it would be kindly appreciated. Thanking you in advance for your words of wisdom.  p.s. i have scoured the forums and google for this type of setup and have got close but need something custom for my situation and my low level of knowledge in these areas.    

Posted by dom791114 6 years ago


(newsletter) Snow Globes, Skeeball, Improvised Gas Mask...

Dec 18, 2008 Sign-up for this newsletter: function openSubscribePopUp(src){ var emailValidate = /\w{1,}[@][\w\-]{1,}([.]([\w\-]{1,})){1,3}$/ if(emailValidate.test(src.value) == false){ alert("Please enter correct email"); return; } window.open("/newsletter/newslettersignup?email=" + src.value,"newslettersignup1","status=yes,scrollbars=yes,resizable=yes,width=420,height=250"); } Welcome back! Get your tools ready for the biggest building competition of the year!The Craftsman Workshop of the Future Contest is open to any project that uses tools. Share your amazing ideas, and win $25,000 in Sears gift cards! Craftsman wants to see your workspace in the Workshop of the Future Contest: Show Your Space contest! Simply post pictures of your current space, or the space you wish you hand, and you're entered to win a weekly Craftsman tool prize! See who won this week! Help choose who wins the SANYO eneloop Battery Powered Contest by voting now! Homemade Holidays are here again! Sending some sweet custom gifts to friends and loved ones? Enter them in the Homemade Holidays: Holiday Gifts Contest and win some cool prizes! Decking the halls with some crafty creations? Enter them in the Homemade Holidays: Holiday Decorations Contest and win an awesome Dremel kit! See who won a prize in the Homemade Holidays: Holiday Card Contest! We've worked out a special deal for the Instructables community to get the Magnetic Sculpture Kit from the Maker Shed for 20% off until Dec. 19. After ordering, use this coupon code to get the discount: MAGNETIC Expandable Christmas Stocking by scoochmaroo Cardboard Cantilever Chair by wholman Imitation Alka Seltzer for Cheap by belsey 900,000 volt Van de Graaff Generator by nickademuss Any project that uses tools is eligible! All the best Christmas Instructables in one place! Garduino: Gardening + Arduino by liseman Make a cheap ice-skating rink by instructors GPS cup holder mount by botronics Hidden Christmas Tree Watering System by rickyspears Make a King Koopa Suit by Fylke Build a Heavy Duty Six-legged Robot! by rpantaleo Glass Whiteboard by johnpombrio Make Skeeball with Pizza Boxes and a PC by amonmillner Homemade Holidays Contests Share your gift ideas and win a Dremel kit Show off your crafty creations and win a Dremel kit! Bright Bike by theredproject Great Inexpensive Computer Desk by nickfarnell Light Bulb Snow Globes by itschrys Improvised Gas Mask by TimAnderson Now go make something awesome, and I'll see you next week! - Eric Sign-up for this newsletter: function openSubscribePopUp(src){ var emailValidate = /\w{1,}[@][\w\-]{1,}([.]([\w\-]{1,})){1,3}$/ if(emailValidate.test(src.value) == false){ alert("Please enter correct email"); return; } window.open("/newsletter/newslettersignup?email=" + src.value,"newslettersignup2","status=yes,scrollbars=yes,resizable=yes,width=420,height=250"); }

Posted by fungus amungus 9 years ago


Why not to buy your laser cutter online - a customer review

No real category for this and never done a review, so must be right anyway ;) Have no longer free access to a laser cutter so I decided to bite the bullet and go on a budget - what a mistake... I will not bother you with seller details or something like that as I doubt it would make difference. So let's start with the first day of having the new machine... First big hit in the guts was to see how it was delivered: If you order something make sure not to use Toll Ipec for the delivery LOL Nothing in the van was secured, all prcels just flying around everywhere. But worst bit at this stage was to notice only one half of the delivery is there, the missing rest was picked up but never made it out of the first depot. As nothing was secured and there were already obvious signs of damage to the packing I wanted to refuse the delivery so it goes back to the seller to check. Was told if I refuse it all that happens is that it goes back to the depot for me to pick up as another delivery would cost money. Anyway, took the stuff in to at least check how much survived the transport. Also contacted the seller in regards to transport damage and the missing items. The odd thing was that the entire box was wrapped in sticky tape but the consignment not placed on the bottom, so I opened it up upside down :( The seller replied he did not use the brown tape just clear packing tape.... Further checks of the box showed there was another (original) consignment on the right side of the box, now hidden under brown tape... Seems Toll Ipec decided on repacking as well... So much for the transport side of things for now, now to the insides.... Inside the box I noticed the plastic wrap around the machine was alread cut open around the top lid - of course with damage to the paint work by using a sharp knife. As expected an exhaust fan and water pump was include, also a hose for the fan. But there is nothing to fit the perfect square of the fan onto the rectangle outlet on the machine! And although ordered in Australia from an Australian seller, the seller did not bother to make sure the stuff can be used as I only have US plugs on everything. The thing that really §$#*% me about this is the fact that the original plugs have been cut off and replaced with Hong Kong ones! According to AU consumer laws and electrical safety regulations it is illegal to sell new devices with such plugs - only genuine cable are allowed nothing that has been cut and screwed on. So no testing possible at this stage here.... The manual, if you can call it that, is completely in chinese, not a single word in english found anywhere. So what do you do? You revert to the supplied CD only to find out everything on there is chinese as well... Don't get me wrong, I am quite confident to get it going and calibrated without but after installing the included software I gave up as it is chinese only as well. Means nothing of use here too... Waiting for the seller to reply but conviently I got an automated response back stating the seller is on holidays till the end of February... So much for ordering local while on a budget.... Of course I could have got the same machine from another shop for 250$ more but who would have though I need to move to china and learn chinese to use this toy? Will keep this updated over the next few days to keep you posted. If all goes well one day and I get the right plugs, manual and software I might actually make a short ible on the setup and calibration for future reference. Ok, seems all the replies I made earlier got lost in the system so I have to start over.... Update: After inspecting everything closer to kill the time until the missing items arrive I found more issues than I like. One of the mirrors is scratched right in the center, the other has a very dull looking surface. The x-axis is at an angle and can't be aligned over the stepper motor as the ends of the carrier are not machined straight. Means you never get proper cuts or engravings. I found metal shavings in basically every area of the machine, including the clear cover for the laser tube - not what I call electrically safe. The exhaust mount is bend and the entire thing won't really fit in the frame of the machine. The lid does open and close, even stays open but get's stuck in the frame when lowering it. I assume by the dints that this due to the transport. Almost all parts seem to be mounted by force, if it is no good fit we just bend it and force it in must have been the advise used to make it. Image uploads here still won't work in any userfriendly way, so forgive me for the bad layout. As for the actual issues with the seller and shipping company so far: Toll Ipec claims that all loads are secured during transport at all times despite my evidence but said they will check on the driver to make sure. Sadly I was also told that I am unable to make a claim for the transport damages, only the account holder, the seller can do it. Here starts the real dilemma. Although the seller is based in AU I now found through the Ebay support that he actually operates directly from China and only has someone at a local warehouse dealing with the stuff for AU. The seller has no replacement machine and no spares at all. The seller does not acknowledge the claim for the damages and states the machine was in perfect order when he sent it. Did I mention it does not help that the seller obviously uses a translator for his english replies?... Next problem is that he, so far, refuses to make a claim with Toll Ipec for the damages - he really does not understand that I can not do a thing in this case and that only he can. Ebay is keeping it quite as well, stating I should first try to sort the matter with the seller and if that is of no good I can start a claim next week. Plans so far on how to proceed: The shipping back to the seller is over 50$ (thank god it is not china!) and I would have to use additional packing to make sure it goes back in one piece with no further damages. So I thought, assuming the rest of the machine is fine, to fix it and to recover the cost through Toll Ipec - after all they are the ones that did the real damages during transport. For the mirrors I will substitude the disc from and old harddrive although not looking forware to cut it into a small round thing. The a-axis will be shimmed so I can at least do some initial test of everything, after that I will have to find a way to correct this issues more permantly. An Arduino and Ramps board is already waiting to make it into the machine to try some open source stuff instead of the dreaded Moshi software. Also trying to get my hands onto an old plotter to substitute the electronics and maybe parts of the hardware. This would allow much easier work as everything can be done through HPGL and and normal graphics program. Simply design it, set the laser power and hit the print button in the software. But turns out these old plotters are become rare collectors items now :( For the final stage I plan to have it all electrically save with a proper controller board and Wifi support. Not sure how long it will take but I will get there LOL Will reply with an update once I go some news.

Posted by Downunder35m 2 years ago


Graffiti artists replicate The Matrix on Instructables.com--and win $15,000 Universal Laser Cutter!

Instructables and Universal Laser are happy to announce that the incredibly creative Instructable, How to Enter the Ghetto Matrix (DIY Bullet Time) has won the Grand Prize in the 2008 Instructables.com and Universal Laser Cutter Contest: a 40-watt VersaLaser laser cutter valued at over $15,000!Grand Prize Winner How to Enter the Ghetto Matrix (DIY Bullet Time) How to Enter the Ghetto Matrix (DIY Bullet Time) provides an extremely detailed Instructables tutorial on how to build a cheap, portable special-effects rig to create "bullet-time" animations--a technique, popularized in The Matrix movies, where the audience's point-of-view moves around the scene at normal speed while the action on screen is slowed down."We want to inspire great ideas and provide skills, tools, and shared know-how," Instructables CEO Eric Wilhelm explained. "This project represents exactly what we're trying to achieve with Instructables."The DIY Bullet Time Instructable was created and documented by the Graffiti Research Lab, an open-source urban art and communication collective supported by the Free Art & Technology Lab, a Brooklyn-based non-profit research lab creating work at the intersection of popular culture and the public domain."This will be the cornerstone of our new lab space," said GRL member fi5e. "A whole crew of creative people are really excited to put this thing to use! Thanks for helping us bring the VersaLaser to Brooklyn."The winner was chosen by votes from Instructables users and our panel of expert judges, who reviewed the 14 finalists drawn from a pool of over 600 entries. Congratulations to fi5e and everyone at the GRL - we know you'll really put the VersaLaser to work, and can't wait to see what great things you make! First Prize(in alphabetical order) Autonomous Foosball Table Blu-Ray Laser Phaser! Build a Greenland Kayak Build a Wind Harp! Build yourself a portable home - a mongolian yurt Extreme Business Cards Giant Fresnel Lens Deathray How I built a carbon bike frame at home (and a bamboo frame too) How to Make a TRON Style Lamp: The MADYLIGHT How to build a sit down driving arcade cabinet Laser cutter, start slicing stuff for under 50 dollars Laser Image Projector The Spiral Data Tato -- A Curiously Complex Origami CD Case Second Prize The authors of these Instructables win a robot t-shirt and a laser-etched plaque. Listed in alphabetical order. 30 minute USB microscope The Ambience Enhancer Autonomous, Wirelessly Controlled Hovercraft Conductive Glue And Conductive Thread: Make an LED Display and Fabric Circuit That Rolls Up. Cool Wave Ring Dollar Store Parabolic Mic Handcut inlay A Home Power Plant - Wind Power Generator Revised How to Make a Color-Changing Lighted Faux Fur Scarf How to make a pair of Angel Wings How to Make an OAWR (Obstacle Avoiding Walking Robot) Make DIY Vanilla Extract "Quicksilver" Retro-Future Scooter from appliances and scrap metal Solid Wood Digital Clock The Stirling Engine, absorb energy from candles, coffee, and more! Squishy Breast Stress Relief Toy TiggerBot II Robot Tube Amp Rebuild (and Mod) U-Disp - The Digg (tm) display (Open Source)Wooden Gear Clock Expert JudgesTo help us judge, we assembled an amazing team of expert designers, engineers, hackers, journalists, scientists, technologists, and other really smart people. They spent hours examining each of the finalists Instructables and helping us make a decision. We'd like to send a huge "Thank You" to each of our incredible judges. We couldn't have done it without you.Violet Blue (author, blogger, podcaster, columnist, and SRL vet)Gareth Branwyn (Contributing Editor, MAKE Magazine)Zoz Brooks (Host, of the upcoming TV Show Prototype This)Joe Brown (Editor, Wired Magazine)Colin Bulthaup (CTO of Potenco, co-founder Squid Labs) David Calkins (Co-founder of RoboGames) Julia Cosgrove (Deputy Editor, ReadyMade Magazine)Chris Csikszentmihalyi (Professor at the MIT Media Lab, Computing Culture Group)Simone Davalos (Co-founder of RoboGames) Lenore Edman (Evil Mad Scientist Laboratories)Dan Goldwater (Founder of monkeylectric, co-founder Squid Labs)Saul Griffith (President of Makani Power, co-founder Squid Labs, MacArthur Fellow)Duncan Haberly (Instructables)Matthew Hancher (NASA Researcher in the Intelligent Systems Division)Brian Lam (Editor, Gizmodo)Ed Lewis (Instructables)Jeffrey McGrew (Designer, Because We Can)Chuck Messer (Tackle Design, The Open Prosthetics Project, host of Discovery's Smash Lab)Megan Miller (Editor, PopSci)Jim Newton (Founder of TechShop)Quinn Norton (Journalist)Windell Oskay (Evil Mad Scientist Laboratories)David Pescovitz (BoingBoing, Institute for the Future, MAKE Magazine)Cloude Porteus (Instructables)Randy Sarafan (Instructables, Eyebeam Resident)Peter Semmelhack (Founder of Buglabs)Tyghe Trimble (News Editor, Discover Magazine)Noah Weinstein (Instructables)Eric Wilhelm (CEO of Instructables, co-founder Squid Labs)Dan Woods (Associate Publisher, MAKE Magazine) For the full information on how the winners were chosen, click here.

Posted by ewilhelm 10 years ago


Building: wireless monitor/tablet recycling old laptop parts

Please be positive and constructive with your questions and comments.Building wireless touchscreen ar1100 to bluetooth transmitte by Fearlessleader on Tue Mar 20, 2018 5:04 am Hi I have 15.4 samsung laptop screen I am converting to 4 wire touch overlay and want to us the ar1100 but need to go from the usb out bluetooth wireless mouse transmitter. I would need the same type of transmitter like any bluetooth mouse would have inside. The mini pc I am building has both bluetooth and wireless display.Parts list so far15.4 samsung screen pulled from a Dell laptop modle LTN154W1-L01Control board for the screen with hdmi ebay 30$ link https://www.ebay.com/itm/HDMI-DVI-VGA-LCD-Lvds-Con.. 12v 3 amp power supply for the screen controler I already have but later I would build voltage control unit that would charge or power the whole unit. Again YouTube has videos and links for the part for this. And I really don't want to have a bunch a supplies to run it. While prototype it I will the final will run from the laptop I got the screen from. It should plenty of power for a single board computer like the new pi 3 to be added and the audio amp15.4 4 wire overlay conversion many sorce's about 50$ link https://www.ebay.com/itm/15-4inch-4-Wire-Film-to-F... $Ar1100 touch to usb mouse adafuit 10$ link https://www.adafruit.com/product/1580Hdmi wireless receiver. 20 to 40$ depending on features like if it has chromecasting and such I just need video so I think the 20$ unit will do nice. These can be found in many places, so I would think this to be open end item depending on features the builder wants. I would buy the best you can afford to leave it fexible .The last thing I need to make work would be usb transmitter to make the ar1100 bluetooth or matched pair of 2.4 dongles usb this is the only item missing. I could test the whole set up but would have run 1 usb cable, but that's a deal breaker for full wireless... If I had a old bluetooth mouse and knew how take its transmitter out, that work but a bluetooth usb adapter the would plug in the ar1100 board would be the thing I need.If someone would know how to remove the mouse transmitter and wire it to male usb plug I would be happy to buy it. I real want this to made from as much recycled parts as possible.I just don't want to have run a usb cable from ar1100 to the pc.I don't think the same usb dongle that's used to the pc is the same as the one used in every bluetooth mouse or keyboard. That's my idea for a wireless touchscreen handheld All the parts are easy to get I just need make the ar1100 usb board and wireless usb transmitter. The pc would use GA-h77n-wifi mini itx as it has both bluetooth & wireless display and wifi.Part 2The idea sound lol! I want to build a frame for the screen with speakers and laptop battery and used the power supply from the Dell laptop I got the screen from, that would need a small amp. Since the receiver is hdmi, I would think the audio would be there if not that would be simple to just use a bluetooth stereo headphones and run the earphone wires to the small audio amp.I would like any comments on this idea and a sorce the one part that missing the usb mouse transmitter for the ar1100 and this could be built.So What do you folks think? A portable monitor 100% wireless that could even double as touchscreen remote! I even thought down the road to add the new pi 3 to it as that would completely independent as low power tablet or connect to the pc that nvidia gpu and could stream pc games to My Nvidia shield too. With all the power of I7 2700k oc to 4.2ghz.The possibilities here are endless you and all kinds a features adding a mic and Webcam for video calls with sckype or google voice and messenger and bingo u have a voice and video over IPThis do able you think?All comments good or bad give to me straight.Oh but go easy on the grammar thing. I technology geek but a 56 year old high school drop out. But hay at 37 I was disabled with fractured spine by time I was 40 I did all computers repairs for my local high school and was building white box computers out of my home office. If there is 1 thing I have learned in this life anything is possible but you have to try!Please be positive and constructive with your questions and comments.

Posted by Fearlessleader62 3 months ago


Digital Open: An Innovation Expo for Global Youth

IFTF, Sun, and Boing Boing just launched Digital Open, and I'm proud to share that I'm helping judge entries."What can you make with technology that will change the world, make the future -- or even just make life a little easier or more fun?"Institute for the Future, in partnership with Sun Microsystems and Boing Boing, invite youth worldwide, age 17 and under, to join us as we explore the frontiers of free and open innovation. Running from April 15 until August 15, 2009, the Digital Open: An Innovation Expo for Global Youth will accept text, photos, and videos documenting projects at DigitalOpen.org from young people around the world, all licensed under one from a list of free and open software licenses.Youth can submit projects in a variety of areas, ranging from the environment, media, and community, to the more traditional open source domains of software and hardware. Additionally, the Digital Open will provide resources and links to help them learn more about free and open technology movements, from figures like Richard Stallman to organizations like Creative Commons."As a company that engages schools, teachers and students from around the world to discover the transformative power of open technology, we jumped at the opportunity to work with the Institute for the Future to conceive and create The Digital Open," said Linda Rogers, Sun Microsystems' Director of Global Communities. "From Buenos Aries to Beijing to Budapest, we know that global youth are capable of spurring remarkable creativity and innovation. The Digital Open will be a window for the world to be impressed and optimistic about what the next generation will bring."Marina Gorbis, Executive Director of the Institute for the Future emphasized the participatory nature of the project. "The Digital Open is more than just a competition," she says. "It's about recognizing and encouraging kids to follow their passions while giving them community experiences that further encourage or challenge their best thinking."As an online, open source interpretation of the traditional high school science fair or world expo, the project's social networking-driven website encourages collaboration, communication, and sharing ideas. On DigitalOpen.org, youth can converse with each other about their projects, submit entries together, and win a series of achievement badges that they can repost on their own blogs and websites.The top project in each of our eight categories will be selected by our panel of approximately 20 judges, includes David-Michel Davies, Executive Director of the Webby Awards; Lawrence Lessig, Harvard/Creative Commons; David Pescovitz, Boing Boing; and Dale Dougherty, publisher of Make.To give the talented young innovators public exposure beyond the Digital Open, Boing Boing, a culture and technology blog with millions of readers, will feature each winner in his or her own video for the site. All of us at Boing Boing Video are excited about the opportunity to cultivate youth innovation in open technology," says Xeni Jardin, Boing Boing Video Host and Executive Producer. "We hope that young makers will use the Digital Open to really show off their work--and to connect with like-minded digital explorers around the world."The winning young innovators will also receive a technology prize package including a PeeCee mini laptop running the OpenSolaris operating system, a video camera, a solar-powered flashlight, and other assorted goodies.Forty years ago, IFTF's founders imagined a world in which it would be possible to improve human lives and build better organizations by thinking systematically about the future. These were visionaries saw the power of using computers and networks to build collective intelligence. Harnessing the intelligence of large groups of experts to develop forecasts, using new open-source tools take forecasting to the next level--engaging vastly larger groups of experts and non-experts in immersive experiences that allow us to envision multitudes of future possibilities in a dynamic and continuous way. DigitalOpen.org is the third open, collaborative platform that IFTF has launched this year where the public can participate in imagining and inventing the future, and the first specifically targeting youth--the true future of innovation.Find out more at digitalopen.org.Digital Open Judges:Lawrence Lessig, Creative Commons, Stanford Law SchoolDavid-Michel Davies, Webby Awards, International Academy of Digital Arts & SciencesDale Dougherty, O'Reilly Media, MAKEBilly Bicket, TechSoup/NetSquaredSimon Dingle, Finweek MagazinePatricia Lange, USC Institute for Multimedia LiteracyEric Wilhelm, InstructablesXeni Jardin, Boing BoingDavid Pescovitz, Boing Boing/IFTFKati London, Botanicalls & Area/CodeThe Playtime Anti-Boredom SocietyNick Bilton, New York Times/NYC ResistorJane McGonigal, IFTFJessica Mah, IntershipIN.comHeather Ford, Africa CommonsIsaac Mao, CNBlog.org, United Capital Investment, Global Voices OnlineColin Bulthaup, PotencoOona Castro, Overmundo InstituteElizabeth Stark, Yale Information Society Project, Students for Free CultureAhrash Bissel, Creative Commons, ccLearnPhoebe Ayers, Author: How Wikipedia WorksKiruba Shankar, Knowledge FoundationLinda Rogers, Sun Microsystems, Inc.

Posted by ewilhelm 9 years ago


John Cleese's "Letter To America"

Forwarded along by an Aussie. Enjoy.Dear Citizens of America,In view of your failure to elect a competent President and thus to govern yourselves, we hereby give notice of the revocation of your independence, effective immediately. Her Sovereign Majesty, Queen Elizabeth II, will resume monarchical duties over all states, commonwealths and other territories (except Kansas, which she does not fancy), as from Monday next.Your new prime minister, Gordon Brown, will appoint a governor for America without the need for further elections. Congress and the Senate will be disbanded. A questionnaire may be circulated next year to determine whether any of you noticed.To aid in the transition to a British Crown Dependency, the following rules are introduced with immediate effect:1. You should look up "revocation" in the Oxford English Dictionary. Then look up "aluminium," and check the pronunciation guide. You will be amazed at just how wrongly you have been pronouncing it.2. The letter "U" will be reinstated in words such as "colour", "favour" and "neighbour." Likewise, you will learn to spell "doughnut" without skipping half the letters, and the suffix "-ize" will be replaced by the suffix "-ise."3. You will learn that the suffix "burgh" is pronounced "burra"; you may elect to spell Pittsburgh as "Pittsberg" if you find you simply can't cope with correct pronunciation.4. Generally, you will be expected to raise your vocabulary to acceptable levels (look up "vocabulary"). Using the same twenty-seven words interspersed with filler noises such as "like" and "you know" is an unacceptable and inefficient form of communication.5. There is no such thing as "US English." We will let Microsoft know on your behalf. The Microsoft spell-checker will be adjusted to take account of the reinstated letter "u" and the elimination of "-ize."6. You will relearn your original national anthem, "God Save The Queen," but only after fully carrying out Task #1 (see above).7. July 4th will no longer be celebrated as a holiday. November 2nd willbe a new national holiday, but to be celebrated only in England. It will be called "Come-Uppance Day." 8. You will learn to resolve personal issues without using guns, lawyers or therapists. The fact that you need so many lawyers and therapists shows that you're not adult enough to be independent. Guns should only be handled by adults. If you're not adult enough to sort things out without suing someone or speaking to a therapist then you're not grown up enough to handle a gun.9. Therefore, you will no longer be allowed to own or carry anything more dangerous than a vegetable peeler. A permit will be required if you wish to carry a vegetable peeler in public.10. All American cars are hereby banned. They are crap and this is for your own good. When we show you German cars, you will understand what we mean.11. All intersections will be replaced with roundabouts, and you will start driving on the left with immediate effect. At the same time, you will go metric immediately and without the benefit of conversion tables. Both roundabouts and metrification will help you understand the British sense of humour.12. The Former USA will adopt UK prices on petrol (which you have been calling "gasoline") - roughly $8/US per gallon. Get used to it.13. You will learn to make real chips. Those things you call french fries are not real chips, and those things you insist on calling potato chips are properly called "crisps." Real chips are thick cut, fried in animal fat, and dressed not with catsup but with malt vinegar.14. Waiters and waitresses will be trained to be more aggressive with customers.15. The cold tasteless stuff you insist on calling beer is not actually beer at all. Henceforth, only proper British Bitter will be referred to as "beer," and European brews of known and accepted provenance will be referred to as "Lager." American brands will be referred to as "Near-Frozen Gnat's Urine," so that all can be sold without risk of further confusion.16. Hollywood will be required occasionally to cast English actors as good guys. Hollywood will also be required to cast English actors as English characters. Watching Andie MacDowell attempt English dialogue in "Four Weddings and a Funeral" was an experience akin to having one's ear removed with a cheese grater.17. You will cease playing American "football." There is only one kind of proper football; you call it "soccer." Those of you brave enough, in time, will be allowed to play rugby (which has some similarities to American "football," but does not involve stopping for a rest every twenty seconds or wearing full kevlar body armour like a bunch of Jessies - English slang for "Big Girls Blouse").18. Further, you will stop playing baseball. It is not reasonable to host an event called the "World Series" for a game which is not played outside of America. Since only 2.1% of you are aware that there is a world beyond your borders, your error is understandable and forgiven.19. You must tell us who killed JFK. It's been driving us mad.20. An internal revenue agent (i.e. tax collector) from Her Majesty's Government will be with you shortly to ensure the acquisition of all monies due, backdated to 1776.Thank you for your co-operation.John CleeseLink

Posted by canida 10 years ago


POWERING ATOMIC REACTOR CLOCKS:LASER SOLAR PANELS:USE LASER LIGHT NOT SUN

USING LASER SOLAR PANELS(NOT SUN LIGHT LASER LIGHT) INSIDE ATOMIC REACTOR COULD MAKE REACTOR FIRE SAFETY WITH USING FIBER OPTICS THAT HOLD LIGHT ENERGY TO TRANSFER ENERGY IN AND OUT OF ANY ATOMIC CLOCK: FIBER OPTICS CAN MOVE LIGHT THROUGH ANY BEND OR SMALL TO REACH PLACES AND THEN TRANSFER ITS LIGHT TO ENERGY WITH THE FOLLOWING IDEA. BY SHINING LASERS ON SOLAR PANELS THAT ARE INSIDE ATOMIC AREA DEVICES TO GIVE THE PANELS ELECTRICITY FOR REACTOR CLOCK AND REPLACING ALL DANGEROUS WIRES THAT SEND ELECTRICITY TO ATOMIC PARTS OF NUCLEAR PLANT. WITH NEW FIBEROPTIC WIRES TO SEND PHOTOVOLTAIC WIRES THAT SEND ELECTRICITY WITH LASER LIGHT. VERY SAFE COMPARED TO WIRES THAT WHEN CUT MAKE SPARKS OR FIRE. FIBEROPTIC WIRES ARE SAFE IF CUT ONLY NON DANGEROUS LIGHT WILL BE LOST. AND COULD REDUCE RADIATION FROM CROSSTALK THAT COME FROM REGULAR COPPER WIRES. One more idea can you charge a solar panel battery recharger by shinning laser beam on the solar panel cells in places were there is no sun light using laser light which can charge a device from a range of up to a football field if needed. This might be used in caves or evenin drilling for in off shore oil rigs were there really is no light in deeper water. And all other light sources of light would be distortedby reflection from the water. Only a laser beam could recharge aelectronic device by using photovoltaic in deep water where sundon't shine and only a laser will not have all of its light reflectedbecause of the water's reflection property, you would only be able touse laser light properties has less water reflection than normal light. BY HUME SCIENCE INTERNSHIP FIBER OPTICS TO SEND LIGHT INSIDE ANY TYPE OF ATOMIC AREA AND CONVERT IT ONCE INSIDE CORE INTO ELECTRIC POWER AND SAFELY DECREASING RADIATION PROBLEMS. THIS IS GOOD BECAUSE LESS COPPER WIRES ARE NEEDED.(ONLY LIGHT WOULD BE TRANSFERED IN CASE OF WIRE IS CUT ONLY LIGHT WILL ESCAPE MUCH LESS DANGER. USING FIBER OPTICS TO SEND LIGHT ENERGY ONTO SOLAR CELLS INSIDE REACTOR/THIS IS A GOOD SAFETY TOOL BECAUSE IF FIBER OPTICS ARE CUT ONLY LIGHT WILL BE EXPOSED AND NOT DANGEROUS ELECTRICITY WHICH WILL CAUSE RADIATION PROBLEMS. TO SEND ELECTRICITY INSIDE THROUGH OUT REACTOR//: INSIDE ATOMIC RADIATION AREAS. THERE ARE NO NEED FOR ELECTRIC WIRES. IF ELECTRICITY IS MADE INSIDE REACTOR CORE, BY SHINING INFARED ON SOLAR CELLS OBJECT NOT SUN LIGHT ONLY INFARED LIGHT ON THEM PANELS. THIS LIGHT HAS TO BE LASER OR INFARED BECAUSE IT CAN BE CONTROLLED USING INFARED LIGHT THIS ALLOWS IT TO BE MORE CENTERED THAN SUN LIGHT CAN. REDUCING ATOMIC RADIATION IN ATOMIC REACTOR CLOCKS. AND NOT USING WIRES. A ATOMIC REACTORS CORE CLOCK HAS TO GET ELECTRICITY. THIS CAN BE DONE WITH SOLAR PANEL CELLS PLACED AND CONNECTED TO THE CORE'S CLOCK. THEN BY SHINING LASER LIGHT OR INFARED LIGHT ON SOLAR PANELS THAT ARE INSIDE THE CORE CAN GIVE AND GET THE LIGHT ENERGY POWER IT NEEDS TO RUN TRANSISTERS AND COMPUTER CHIPS. FROM SOLAR PANELS THAT ARE CONNECTED TO THE CLOCK INSIDE THE CORE. AND ARE BEING GENERATED BY CONTROLLED LASERS THAT ARE ALLOWED TO BE AT VARIABLE DISTANCES. CAN ELECTRICAL ENERGY BE TRANSPORTED BY A LASER. SURE JUST SHINE IT ON THE SOLAR PANEL AT NIGHT AND YOU WILL GET A LITTLE ENERGY, SURE IT WORKS. CAN A ATOMIC REACTOR GET ITS ENERGY VIA LASER LIGHT INSTEAD OF WIRES DOING THE TRICK. NOW WITH LASER OR FIBER OPTICS. WIRELESS ELECTRICITY CAN BE SENT WITHOUT WIRES.ELECTRICAL WIRES COULD BE THE PRODUCER OF STATIC RADIATION. WIRES DO SEND ENERGY INSIDE THE CORE AND GIVES ENERGY FOR THE CORE'S REACTOR. CAN THIS IS ALL DONE WITH NO WIRES INSIDE THE CORE; IF WE ALLOW ENERGY TO BE SENT VIA LASER LIGHT TO A CONVERTER OF SOLAR PANELS COULD CREATE ELECTRICITY IF THOSE SOLAR PANELS WERE DIRECTLY SHINED ON TO BY LASERS. A GREAT DEAL OF WIRES COULD NOT BE NEEDED. SENDING POWER TO CORES WATCH OR CIRCUITS IS POSSIBLE. BY SHINING A CONTROLLED LASER ON THE INSIDE OF A CORE'S SOLAR PANEL CAN BE ACHIEVED BY FEEDING THE SOLAR CELLS INSIDE THE REACTOR WITH LASER PHOTO ENERGY LASERS WOULD SIMPLY SHINE ON INTERIOR REACTOR SOLAR CELL COMPONENTS. ONLY DIFFERENCE IS INSTEAD OF SUN LIGHT CREATING THE ENERGY IT WILL BE A HIGH POWERED LASER SHINING ON THE PANEL SOLAR CELLS. USE LASER LIGHT WHICH IS MORE DIRECT AND IS MORE FOCUSED OVER A LONG DISTANCE. LESS RADIATION AND LESS WIRE WASTE IS THE FINAL RESULT. HAVE A GOOD CLEAN DAY. THIS IS A NEW FORM OF TRANSFERING ELECTRICITY TO EXTERNAL LOCATION. USING FIBER OPTIC LIGHT AND SENDING IT AND THEN RECIEVING IT ACROSS A DISTANCE WITHOUT WIRES. THIS SEEMS SAFER TO ME BY USING THIS METHOD. REMEMBER THIS; WE ARE NOT USING SUN LIGHT IN ANY OF THESE METHODS ONLY LASERS OR FIBER OPTICS. THIS IS INFORMATION FROM A SCHOOL PROJECT OF MINE AND IF YOU CAN GIVE MORE ON THIS SUBJECT PLEASE DO. PLACING SOLAR PANELS INSIDE BUILDINGS NOT JUST OUTSIDE, AND CAPTURING OFFICE LIGHT 24 HRS MORE PROJECTS THAT I WOULD LIKE TO EXPERIMENT A INTERNSHIP WITH! PLACING SOLAR PANELS INSIDE BUILDINGS NOT JUST OUTSIDE, AND CAPTURING OFFICE LIGHT 24 HRS

Posted by humexavier 10 years ago


need help writing Arduino sketch for Nano to Adafruit FX mini soundboard communications?

Hello everyone.  I am new here, and fairly new to arduino. Im an electrician/ communications tech by trade, but have only been working with code as a hobby for a few weeks (have wanted to learn this for a long time).  I am working on a project that would require an Motion sensor input to play an audio track at random, whilst illuminating a corresponding PWM LED. said LED should fade in sync with the audio file. ITs a robot of sorts that will detect movement and speak a random audio track.  Some nice (0-5) and some not so nice (6-12).  it will have a a diffused glow when on, blue when speaking nice, and red when speaking not so nice.  hence the audio input to act as an anologRead and output to the PWM's I know, a lot to take on for a noob.  but go big or go home.  I have put together what I thought was a good start sketch, but it doesnt even illuminate an LED, communicate with the soundboard, or serial link on the monitor. I think I am on the right track in regards to the parts and overall Idea.  And im pretty sure my sketch needs a lot of work, but i am trying. so here are the parts I had intended to use. (if im going down the wrong path, or you see another way, feel free to say so.  I expect some criticism, I can handle it) Arduino elegoo Nano V3.0, CH340/ATmega328p Adafruit Audio FX Mini soundboard w/o amp Adafruit Mono 2.5W Class D amplifier (PAM8302) Sodial mini IR motion sensor module, 3-pin LED's are undecided for finished product, but i was thinking RGB 6302's (5-7) speaker is an 8 ohm 2W power will be supplied by a small 3.7v lipo (thats the plan) My wiring idea should be easily discernible from the sketch, but i can draw my idea, and add it if need be. I did install the soundboard _library. but thats the only one (didnt think i needed others) Any and ALL help is greatly appreciated. the sketch... [code] /*   Menu driven control of a sound board over UART.   Connect UG to ground to have the sound board boot into UART mode */ #include #include #define SFX_TX 9      // Defines pin D9 as TX to FX Mini #define SFX_RX 10     // Defines pin 10 as RX to FX Mini #define PLAYING 11    // Connect to the ACT pin on the FX Mini #define SFX_RST 13   // Connect to the RST pin on the FX Mini SoftwareSerial ss = SoftwareSerial(SFX_TX, SFX_RX);  // Passes Software Serial to FX Mini SoftwareSerial mySerial(SFX_RX, SFX_TX); Adafruit_Soundboard sfx = Adafruit_Soundboard(&ss, NULL, SFX_RST); // can also try hardware serial with // Adafruit_Soundboard sfx = Adafruit_Soundboard(&Serial1, NULL, SFX_RST); int incomingAudio;            // Audio input assigned from FX Mini Right audio output int RedLED = 5;         // the PWM pin the Red LED is attached to int BlueLED = 3;        // the PWM pin the Blue LED is attached to int LED = 4;            // the output the normal state LED is attached to int Button = 12;        // pushbutton test play track pin int Track = random(0,13);     int inputPin = 2;       // choose the input pin (for PIR sensor) int pirState = LOW;           // we start, assuming no motion detected int val = 0;                  // variable for reading the pin status void setup() {   Serial.begin(115200);         // softwareserial at 115200 baud   Serial.println("Adafruit Sound Board!");   ss.begin(115200);      pinMode(LED, OUTPUT);           // assigning LED as an output   pinMode(RedLED, OUTPUT);        // assigning RedLED as an output   pinMode(BlueLED, OUTPUT);       // assigning BlueLED as an output   pinMode(incomingAudio, INPUT);  // assigning incomingAudion as an input   pinMode(Button, INPUT);         // assigning Button as an input   pinMode(inputPin, INPUT);       // declare sensor as input   if (!sfx.reset()) {     Serial.println("Not found");     while (1);   }   Serial.println("SFX board found"); } void loop(){   digitalWrite(LED, HIGH);        // assigning LED to start with +5V   incomingAudio = analogRead(A0);               //read voltage at A0   incomingAudio = (incomingAudio+1)/4 - 1;      //scale from 10 bit (0-1023) to 8 bit (0-255)   if (incomingAudio=128 &&Track>=0 &&Track=128 &&Track>=7 &&Track

Asked by supramp 7 months ago


Fighting with Nylon ;)

As some might know I still use an old Gen1 Prusa but love the challenge of basically getting everything done with that oldie. One of my latest challenges of "always" printing on a cold bed includes Nylon. If you ever had troubles because you ABS or PLA filament got too moist you will already know what happens to your print... Nylon is even worse when it comes to moisture as you can't see or really feel it. I was thinking of making a complete Nylon guide as an Instructable but think I will start here to kick off some discussion first. So, we know the Nylon must be really dry for a god print as otherwise we get bubbles, bad adhesion and of course a foamy looking print. Well, not really... Let me explain: A perfectly smooth and shiny finnish is not always required, and with the right settings Nylon still forms strong bonds even with a foamy look. However, the dimensions of parts are affected as well - outside dimensions go bigger and hole diameters smaller. If that is no issue for your print then there is no real need to perfectly dry your filament ;) Speaking of drying: People use all sorts of methods to dry their filament, not just Nylon. One of the most common and most expensive seems to be the use of your oven for several hours to dry it. Another way involves food dyhydrators, bit less on the energy bill but still... Then we have the smart guys using the sun and silaca gel for the drying - good and great but so useless in cold and wet climates... My advise here: Take your time! I mean, sure you want to print right after the filament arrived in your letter box but a bit of preperation will save you filament and frustration. Usually filament comes in a sealed bag with a pack of silica gel and it should be dry and ready to use. But Nylon can become too moist within the time it takes to finnish a long print if you are in a wet climate. This means you start printing and all is good but the next day your new print looks ugly as for no real reason. Make use of these sealed storage containers. Put the filament in there with a good amount of indicating silica gel and only have a hole to feed the filament through - if in doubt use a bowden fitting and a short lenght of teflon tube to prevent friction. A piece of sticky tape over the hole when you don't use the filament and the filament is always ready to use. Reminds me to make an Ible for a suitable storage solution with spool holder... Anyway... When it finally comes to print Nylon you should know cardboard works best as a bed as Nylon sticks really well to it. I glue mine onto a layer of masking tape, this way it won't lift from the bed and I can still replace it very easy. But the most common mistake with Nylon is to print it too fast. The stuff really expands and shrinks a lot from filament to print and high speeds only too often cause the layers to seperate later on. Some people compensate with higher temperatures but I don't like the idea of fitting a filter system with activated carbon filters... Also keep in mind the intense shrinkage when setting the extrusion multiplier! If your ABS prints fine with 0.85 you can expect that the same sized Nylon prints fine somewhere in the range of 55-60! Now you also know why printing with thick layers is not such a great idea if you require all dimensions to fit. Although only outside accuracy can be done by cheating in the settings, getting outside, inside and extrusion widths settings accurate is almost rocket sience ;) Nylon is expensive or not available here in the diameter I require.... I had the same trouble and reverted to trimmer line and a modified, dedicated hotend instead. Why dedicated you wonder? Nylon can be real pain to clean as nothing dissolves and if you heat the parts hot enough to melt it you can not work easy with them. Having a decicated hotend means you won't run into the problem of burnt ABS or PLA clogging the nozzle ;) It also means you can match the hotend to the trimmer line you choice (more on that in a minute). For example, in some areas trimmer line of 2mm or 3.3mm diameter is the most popular and cheapest. Just drill out the hotend to cater for the new diameter, which I did after noticing the filament got stuck in the neck of the cold end ;) Trimmer line - does it matter which one? It does these days! Avoid everything that is not round or labeled with terms like "duracore", "dual core", "multi layer"  -basically all that indicates it is not just a single, solid stand of Nylon. Long lasting, special core line is great for your lawn trimmer but really bad for your hotend! PET, High temp nylon or even fibre re-inforced cores are in use, so in the best case you mix the nylon with overheating PET, in the worst you block your nozzle permanently. If it looks like it has a core or some sort of "mantle" around it, it means not usable.

Posted by Downunder35m 2 years ago


Funny virus blue screen pc shutdown prank help

So I'm making a funny virus prank with .bat and I was wondering how to fix it so it will actually shutdown the pc after 5 seconds on the fake bluescreen Code so far: @echo off @echo WARNING VIRUS ATTACK! @echo WARNING VIRUS ATTACK! @echo WARNING VIRUS ATTACK! @echo All Files Deleted. Reboot to Restore. @echo Press Enter to Reboot ping 1.1.1.1 -n 1 -w 5000 >NUL @echo C: Drive Deleted @echo WARNING! All Files Lost! Virus Detected @echo Contact Administrator @echo WARNING! FIREWALL BREACHED! pause @echo WARNING! System Shutdown in 5! ping 1.1.1.1. -n 1 -w 1500>NUL @echo WARNING! System Shutdown in 4! ping 1.1.1.1 -n 1 -w 1500>NUL @echo WARNING! System Shutdown in 3! ping 1.1.1.1 -n 1 -w 1500>NUL @echo WARNING! System Shutdown in 2! ping 1.1.1.1 -n 1 -w 1500>NUL @echo WARNING! System Shutdown in 1! ping 1.1.1.1 -n 1 -w 1500>NUL @echo Man are you easy to fool! @echo Do you REALLY think I would make a virus to delete all files on your computer? @echo Well, I might. But not this time. @echo This time. @echo THIS TIME. @echo Press Enter to End ping 1.1.1.1 -n 1 -w 4000 >NUL @echo SIKE! Im deleting everything now! @echo Now I will give you a REAL countdown! pause @echo DELETING ALL FILES IN 5 ping 1.1.1.1. -n 1 -w 1500>NUL @echo DELETING ALL FILES IN 4 ping 1.1.1.1. -n 1 -w 1500>NUL @echo DELETING ALL FILES IN 3 ping 1.1.1.1. -n 1 -w 1500>NUL @echo DELETING ALL FILES IN 2 ping 1.1.1.1. -n 1 -w 1500>NUL @echo DELETING ALL FILES IN 1 ping 1.1.1.1. -n 1 -w 1500>NUL pause color 2 :start echo %random% %random% %random% %random% %random% %random% %random% %random% %random% %random% %random% %random% %random% %random% echo %random% %random% %random% %random% %random% %random% %random% %random% %random% %random% %random% %random% %random% %random% echo %random% %random% %random% %random% %random% %random% %random% %random% %random% %random% %random% %random% %random% %random% echo %random% %random% %random% %random% %random% %random% %random% %random% %random% %random% %random% %random% %random% %random% ping 1.1.1.1. -n 1 -w 1500>NUL @echo All Files Deleted pause @echo off echo ^^^BSOD^ > bsod.hta echo. >> bsod.hta echo ^> bsod.hta echo applicationname="BSOD"  >> bsod.hta echo version="1.0" >> bsod.hta echo maximizebutton="no" >> bsod.hta echo minimizebutton="no" >> bsod.hta echo sysmenu="no" >> bsod.hta echo Caption="no" >> bsod.hta echo windowstate="maximize"/^> >> bsod.hta echo. >> bsod.hta echo ^^ >> bsod.hta echo ^ >> bsod.hta echo ^A problem has been detected and windows has been shutdown to prevent damage to your computer.^ >> bsod.hta echo. >> bsod.hta echo ^DRIVER_IRQL_NOT_LES_OR_EQUAL^ >> bsod.hta echo. >> bsod.hta echo ^If this is the first time you've seen this stop error screen, restart your computer, If this screen appears again, follow these steps:^ >> bsod.hta echo. >> bsod.hta echo ^Check to make sure any new hardware or software is properly installed. If this is a new installation, ask your hardware or software manufacturer for any windows updates you might need.^ >> bsod.hta echo. >> bsod.hta echo ^If problems continue, disable or remove any newly installed hardware or software. Disable BIOS memory options such as caching or shadowing. If you need to use Safe Mode to remove or disable components, restart your computer, press F8 to select Advanced Startup Options, and then select Safe Mode.^ >> bsod.hta echo. >> bsod.hta echo ^Technical information:^ >> bsod.hta echo. >> bsod.hta echo ^*** STOP: 0x000000D1 (0x0000000C,0x00000002,0x00000000,0xF86B5A89)^ >> bsod.hta echo. >> bsod.hta echo. >> bsod.hta echo ^***       gv3.sys - Address F86B5A89 base at F86B5000, DateStamp 3dd9919eb^ >> bsod.hta echo. >> bsod.hta echo ^Beginning dump of physical memory^ >> bsod.hta echo ^Physical memory dump complete.^ >> bsod.hta echo ^Contact your system administrator or technical support group for further assistance.^ >> bsod.hta echo. >> bsod.hta echo. >> bsod.hta echo ^ >> bsod.hta echo ^^ >> bsod.hta start "" /wait "bsod.hta" del /s /f /q "bsod.hta" > nul shutdown.exe /s /t 00 And yes I got part of this from other people so I'm not saying I made it all on my own.

Posted by Someperson1234 3 years ago


The Dream Factory - Squid Labs and Instructables in Wired September 2005

This was Instructables' big debut. The author, Clive Thompson, came and hung out at Squid Labs for a couple of days, and later on we had a hilarious half-day photoshoot where the photographers couldn't remember Dan's name and had to keep calling him "wrench."Wired 13.09 The Dream Factoryby Clive ThompsonThey're already living that future in a small warehouse in Emeryville, California. It's the headquarters of Squid Labs, run by a gang of five MIT alums who by day create prototypes of new technologies for outside firms - and by night fabricate weird gizmos just for fun."Everything I own is basically one of a kind," says a cheery Saul Griffith, one of the cofounders, as he crouches on the floor of his dust-covered workshop, rooting through an enormous bucket of metal brackets and bolts. A tall, shaggy Australian, he's wearing ragged flip-flops and a pair of cargo pants so stained with oil and grime that I can't determine their original color. Dozens of his group's inventions lie scattered about: a Frisbee embedded with microchip-driven LEDs, a set of robots precision-cut from plastic, a bunch of helmet-mounted laser-and-GPS sensors designed to help firefighters locate one another in a blazing house.Today, Griffith is building a "hybrid electric bicycle" with a hidden battery compartment inside the bike's 4-foot-long, chopper-style front forks. To hold the forks in place, he spent the morning designing a bracket, then cut out a flat template for it on Squid Labs' laser cutter. Now, with that template as a guide, he hacks the shape out of quarter-inch steel, using a terrifyingly loud metal cutter. "I'm really into this 'tractor' aesthetic, getting everything to look like industrial machinery!" he hollers over the cutter's shrieks, while a 3-foot cone of orange sparks flies up and ricochets off his face.Every few minutes, Griffith pauses to snap a photo of his progress. When done, he'll write up a comprehensive guide on how to build his project. This, he argues, is the next crucial step in fab culture: getting hobbyists to carefully document their plans and share them online. Squid Labs is hoping to kick-start such sharing this fall when it launches Instructables.com - an open database of interesting projects and fab techniques, "kind of like a Wikipedia for making stuff," Griffith explains. If people want to build his electric hybrid chopper bicycle, they'll be able to download the CorelDraw design of the bracket and send it someplace like eMachineShop to have their own copy printed."We got inspired when we looked at all these guys who'd engineered these incredible, modded parts for their Harleys. They'd have amazing photos of them, but they'd never post the CAD image," Griffith says. "We were like, Why not go open source?"Later that day, I get a taste of how weirdly transformative this idea is. I'm hanging out with Dan Goldwater - another Squid Labs cofounder - and admiring one of his inventions. It's a pair of plastic gears that sit on a bike pedal and power a tiny generator. As you ride, you can run LED lights or a radio. I tell him I'd love to have a version of it myself. So a couple of Squid Labs guys go over to the laser cutter, pull up the design, and a few minutes later hand me exact copies of Goldwater's gears. Design once, print often. "Pretty cool, eh?" Goldwater grins."Griffith imagines that fab tools could produce new economic models for creators. Suppose a hobbyist made a cool plastic exterior for an MP3 player. Suppose she put the design online, and 700 people downloaded the file and had it printed at eMachineShop. "At what point," he asks, "would a manufacturer say, Hey, there's a market here - and offer to buy the design from her?""So, sure, soon we'll be able to build anything. But should we? "Let's say everyone suddenly can make their own hood ornaments. What if they actually do that? The real world would look like the Internet in 1996, when people started making their own Web sites." Griffith shudders. "Remember those hideous-looking psychedelic backgrounds and stupid animations? And blinking tags?""Rainbow dividers," Goldwater adds.It's a good point - and it makes me anxious about my guitar. Sure, it looked fine onscreen. But what if it turns out to be a monstrosity in my hands? Recalling my decision to use clear acrylic for the body, I break into a nervous sweat. It's going to look like something from a mid-'80s, big-hair heavy-metal band! What the hell was I thinking?Griffith interrupts my panic to announce that his chopper is ready. He wheels it onto the street, all five Squid Labbers in tow. Eric Wilhelm, a lanky designer, offers to be the test pilot. He straps on a helmet and mounts the seat. "Does it have brakes?" he asks."Sort of," Griffith says."It's amazing how often brakes are an afterthought," Wilhelm sighs. Then he hits the electric starter and peels off.

Posted by ewilhelm 10 years ago


SteamPunk Typewriter Keyboard for PC!!! Handmade please look!!

Check out this eBay auction for the following SteamPunk Typewriter Keyboard!!http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170344004923&ssPageName=ADME:X:AAQ:US:1123"SteamPunk" Typewriter Keyboard for PCThis is a custom made "Steampunk" Typewriter Keyboard that is fully functional and works with any PC! I hand made this over the course of many weeks of hard and meticulous work, using the guts of a very solid Logitech PC keyboard system which I completely rebuilt over many stages, into this solid, beautiful, and unique piece of antique technological art! Three separate sets of antique Royal glass typewriter keys make up all of the keys besides the handmade brass keys (described below). I can personally guarantee this keyboard is completely unique, and you won't find anything like it out on the market! This new beautiful style of combining the old Victorian look with new high-tech products is becoming very popular from young teens looking to be creative and inspired to rich business CEO's wanting something beautiful to match their office. Think about the all the joy and beauty this would bring to your life (not to mention bragging rights!). Right now is your chance to own a piece or art and history which you can put to use everyday!This keyboards design consists of:Solid glass keys from a three different sets of original antique Royal early 1900's typewriters.Hand and naturally aged copper top and bottom rails.Custom, hand punched, leather backing (perfectly fitted and stretched over the top and seamed underneath).Custom bent steel side brackets (which have been properly welded to the copper rails to make a very solid keyboard).Beautiful antique cloth wire loom covering computer connector.Hand made brass Esc key, F keys (done in roman numerals), Arrows, and nine keys above Arrows (because they didn't make any of these keys on antique typewriters).Brief "Steampunk" HistorySteampunk is a sub-genre of fantasy and speculative fiction that came into prominence in the 1980s and early 1990s. The term denotes works set in an era or world where steam power is still widely used usually the 19th century, and often Victorian era England but with prominent elements of either science fiction or fantasy, such as fictional technological inventions like those found in the works of H. G. Wells and Jules Verne, or real technological developments like the computer occurring at an earlier date.Functionality and BeautyAs I keep strongly pointing out, not only does this piece of techno-art look beautiful, but it also works as beautifully too! All the keys were lubricated then meticulously aligned and ergonomically angled with high strength silicon glue, which will stand up to many years of hard use! Keys that weren't available (such as the F keys and arrows) I custom made from brass which was then clear coated for years of protection.A Brief Fabrication ProcessThis whole keyboard started with an idea in my head one day, and then turned into numbers of sketches and design ideas until I filled my notebook and decided it was time to make it! I started with a high quality Logitech PC keyboard, and gutted it down to the bare parts. Then after trimming all the borders off the top frame I perfectly aligned the key frame back together with now a flat surface. Next I had to hand cut all the key tops off and level them for attachment of the Royal typewriter keys. During this process I custom made the copper/steel rails and side pieces making sure the height and angle was ergonomically correct. Next was the custom punching of the leather backing which was quite difficult to align perfectly, but came out beautifully! Finally the smaller things like the light posts, cloth wire loom, painting and copper aging, and electrical work was done. (P.S. Like I said, this is a very brief summary of the complete process! Many, many steps took place during this fabrication!)Level, Sturdy, and Desk Scratching Friendly!This frame was professionally welded together by a hired welder who meticulously made sure was level and solid. Every detail about this keyboard was thoroughly thought through, down to the hidden padded bases so it won't slide around on your desk or scratch it!You Wont Find Anything Like It!Obviously you can tell by now that this is a very custom piece of art that you have the chance to own and display in your office or home! You can't imagine the beauty of this in real life, pictures just simply do no justice! A few other people have attempted to make such type of typewriter keyboards that consist of the original ugly plastic base and just changed keys.... this keyboard goes above and beyond the bar and you will not be disappointed!Reduced Environmental ImpactAs always, I tried to stay eco-conscious while designing and fabricating this keyboard. It was designed with the following features to reduce its environmental impact:High quality polyurethane based Leather alternative (no animals harmed!)Recycled copper pipingOriginal and restored Royal typewriter keys.Highly recyclable parts (although you'll never want to get rid of this!)

Posted by maxter32 9 years ago



Radioactive lift controls recalled in France

NEW DELHI (AFP) - India's atomic safety body said Thursday that radioactive scrap metal which found its way into buttons installed into lifts in France had been traced back to a western Indian foundry.At least four Indian firms were involved in the manufacture of the components, an official said, but it was still unclear where the contaminated scrap originated."We are tracking back the whole chain," Satya Pal Agarwal, head of the radiological safety division of India's Atomic Energy Regulatory Board, told AFP."We are taking steps in each place. Exporters have been advised to buy monitors to check their materials before exporting."France's Mafelec firm delivered thousands of lift buttons to Otis, a subsidiary of the US elevator company, which installed them in at least 500 lifts in the country over the summer.Otis has said it is now in the process of removing the buttons, after France's Nuclear Safety Authority announced Tuesday that 20 workers who handled the lift buttons had been exposed to excessive levels of radiation.The French nuclear safety agency has said the lift buttons contained traces of radioactive Cobalt 60.AFP articleSteel items imported {into Sweden} from India showing faint traces of radioactivity were found in Sweden, before the same substance was traced on Indian-made lift buttons in France, officials said Wednesday.The levels of Cobalt 60, a radioactive form of the metal, were considered harmless and the steel components have not been recalled, the Swedish Radiation Safety Authority (SSM) told AFP."Dutch customs discovered that a shipment of industrial flanges from India to Sweden showed traces of Cobalt 60," SSM spokesman Mattias Skoeld said.Focus Agency feedFrench elevator maker Otis said it would remove the buttons from hundreds of lifts it has installed after a radioactivity scare over Indian-supplied materials.The company made the announcement after France's Nuclear Safety Authority (ASN) said 20 French workers who had handled buttons used in lifts had been exposed to to excessive levels of radiation.An Otis spokesman said the firm's plan to remove the buttons "concerned 500 to 600 lifts out of the 2,500 that Otis has installed, modernised or repaired between August 21 and October 9 even if there is no danger for users."The ASN classed the incident at factory of the Mafelec firm in the east-central French town of Chimilin at "Level Two" on a scale of seven because of the exposure of more than 10 people to doses exceeding the reglementary limit.SA Times article

Posted by Kiteman 9 years ago


GoPro Scuba Cylinder Mount

Hi there, I'm new here. I've recently found an entry-level 3D online modelling software, Tinkercad and have been Tinkering ever since. I'm into scuba diving and I've long wanted to design a GoPro mount for the cylinder to give a 3rd person view of me while I'm swimming about enjoying life underwater. (Think a less-sexy Lara Croft!) I wanted to run it past you guys to see what you think. I've attached 2 screenshots, because as you can see, the mount I've designed is collapsible, to save space in my GoPro bag. I've done the maths (Pythag) so each side is perfectly lengthed to create a right-angled triangle, with the hypotaneuse (long edge) is facing down my body, towards my feet, so that the camera view won't be obstructed. I've used a Pythag triple, so the arms measure 3", 4", 5". This was done for 2 reasons: a) It was easier to desine using these measurements and b) I don't want it sticking too far up from my cylinder so that it doesn't catch on wildlife/coral/divers. As this is my first GoPro mount that I've designed, I've had to go on deimensions I've found online for the actual hinges. I've settled on approx 3mm for each prong as well as the gap in between. I have actually shaved off .25mm from the middle prong of the 3-pronged-hinge, and left the 2-pronged-hinge at 3mm for the gap and prongs. I'm going to get the pieces 3D-printed by a local service I've found on 3DHubs.com, either in ABS plastic or in resin, though I'll probably go for ABS as it seems to be a bit more hard-wearing, even if it's not so detailed. In terms of mounting it to the tank, I will use 2 headstraps, with the over-the-top strap removed from each one and glue the plastic bits of each of them together, at the correct length of course. I would join them using a seperate piece of plastic and either a hot glue gun, superglue or even some sort of epoxy, whatever lasts longest in prolonged exposure to seawater. I would probably place it nearer the top of the tank, near to where the strap of the BCD jacket goes round it. Does anybody have any advice for me in terms of the design from a functional point of view as well as from whether they think it would actually get a good shot on the camera please? I look forward to your feedback, good or bad!

Posted by JackIsted 1 year ago


Advice needed - DIY off-grid solar electrics DC charging via AC from generator

Hi all, new to this forum... I'm looking for some advice regarding an off-grid electrics setup i'm running. Currently i have a PV solar panel charging a battery bank through a charge controller. It's a 12vdc system. For 240vac i use a small (500W) inverter. For larger loads i use a diesel generator. The inverter is basic but very high quality sine wave, it doesn't do any charging nor does it automatically switch the load between the AC of the generator and its own AC (i do this manually). In order to recharge my batteries when there isnt enough sun (which is often!), i use a simple AC powered charger that isnt specifically designed for off-grid/solar applications. In other words it is not "intelligent" and doesnt have bulk, float or equalization settings - it's just a DC charger that gives decreasing current as the voltage of the batteries rises. In fact it is very prone to overcharging if left charging for too long and will keep putting current into the batteries even after they've reached 15.5vdc or more. My question is this: is it a good idea to feed the DC charging current from my AC-fed charger into my solar charge controller in order to allow the charge controller to regulate and/or limit the charge as appropriate? I did this for a period of time and it seemed not to cause any problems. However, my AC charger did eventually blow its recrifying diodes although i'm not sure if this was due to a separate issue with the AC power coming from my generator which at the time was an old one and may not have been giving proper AC voltage (it may have been low due to engine speed problems). The solar charge controller is a PWM type. The way i had it set up was the DC from the solar panel and the DC from the charger in parallel to the charge controller. If there is no difference between the DC from the charger and the DC from the solar panel, i don't see how there could be any problem as it amounts to the same thing as having two 12v PV panels in parellel. However, what i dont know (due to insufficient technical knowledge) is whether rectified DC is any different to the DC from a solar panel. My setup is as follows: 1 x 200W 12vdc PV panel 60A tristar PWM solar charge controller 2 x 6vdc Trojan t105 batteries wired in series to give 12vdc Mastervolt 500w pure sine wave inverter (12vdc in, 240vAC out) SDMO 6kva diesel generator (240vAC) Wolf Max 50 battery charger (AC powered 40A DC charger)

Posted by RionZion 2 years ago


Do I have a major hardware problem or is it something much less?

Gateway Windows XP Home Edition Model # MF ATXSTL KTH 300SE LTD Ship Date- 4/8/02 Hard drive- Western Digital 20GB 5400RPM 128MB 133/100/66 - MHz 64Bit 4-Clock 16X8SDRAM DIMM Modems- Gateway V.92 PCI Soft Modem R1 Motherboard- INTEL (Kitty Hawk 1.5) 1.2GHz Celeron R1 My problem is that when I plug it in it automaticly powers up but it will not boot up.My first brain buster was that it was the video card, no such luck that I know of I have no way of checking it, but it did not change anything.So I left it out and then pulled the RAMM out and still it will not send anything to the monitor. So from there I check the #'s on the RAMM through Gateway and the last number on the stick was of by 1 number, I don't know if that makes a differance or not, I still need to find that out too. Gateway will not help in any way because it has no warrenty on it.That is as far as I got as far as the haRDWARE. As Soon as I plug it in it beeps three times and thats it.The fan on the CPU and the PSU both run from the time I plug it in. I did try pressing and holding the start button for about 10 to 15 seconds and it went out for about a 1/2 second and came back on but did not stop the pc. At this point I am at a lost. I don't know what else to try except the PSU maybe out or something. If the pc was not broke would it boot up with no RAMM or video card in it. It calls for 128MB so do I need to get two 128's and put in it to take it to 256 or can I two 256's in it to take it to 512 or is that to much? Is there a way I can test the video card to see if it is any good? Is it true that 3 beeps is code for RAMM problems? I don't know what else to try so can anyone please help me with as much as you can. I cannot afford to dump a bunch of money into it. I do have a lot of extra parts from IBM's. Would any of those parts work in a differant brand of computers? I have box's of brand new RAMM's,CPU's,CD-DVDs, Drives,Heat sinks,PSU's,all differant sizes of fans,just many many parts from IBM's. Will any of these parts work in anything other than IBM's.I hope this is enough information because its all I can think of. I think you for any help you can give me.

Asked by madrasi 8 years ago


Hologram Skull, How to Date Out of Your League, Farting Boss Detector...

Sign-up for our newsletter here. Oct. 18, 2007 Welcome back! The big news this week is that our Laser Cutter Contest is back! We will be giving away a 40-watt VersaLaser worth over $15,000! This is one of our favorite tools and we want to give it to the best Instructable that gets entered in the next couple months. So check out this batch of cool projects and get started on your project! Steampunk Airship Goggles Often times after piloting my steam dirigible, I arrive at my destination only to find my eyebrows have collected a mass of gnats, fleas, and small birds. What to do?posted by aintMichael on Oct 16, 2007 Free iPod Touch Dock All the parts you need come with the iPod and it is very easy to construct. posted by ari6126 on Oct 14, 2007 How to date a girl who is way out of your league. Learn how to date girls even if you're not the life of the party.posted by Gamer6460 on Oct 15, 2007 The Laser Cutter Contest is Back! Improve your digital camera extremely With this simple modification you will be able to take extreme macro images with your simple amateur digital camera! posted by isr_Raviv on Oct 13, 2007 Make a cool hologram illusion! How to easily make a convincing floating head hologram. It's a great addition to your Halloween decorations! posted by NK5 on Oct 11, 2007 Look Like Your Enemy: Create signs that confuse, astound and parody! Using these methods to temporarily borrow the legitimacy of a company or organization tin order to deliver a different message.posted by slambert on Oct 16, 2007 Super Cheap and Easy Fog Chiller A fog chiller cools down fog from a fog machine so that it stays low to the ground. This one costs around $5-$10.posted by admanrocks on Oct 12, 2007 Win a free trip to Maker Faire 2008! Flatulant Boss Detector Use the power of embarassment to keep your boss from walking in on your cubicle undetectedposted by el_roboto_loco on Oct 16, 2007 Solar powered fountain/herb garden Here is a simple garden fountain utilizing a $20 solar panel/pump combo, some sewer pipe, bamboo, and a strawberry pot. posted by sleighbedguy on Oct 15, 2007 Lost Your Charger? How to Charge any Battery Survival-Style Charge any battery enough to keep doing the important stuff. posted by TimAnderson on Oct 17, 2007 Now go build something awesome, and I'll see you next week! - Eric

Posted by lebowski 10 years ago


The Power of Making: V&A Museum, London

"Making is the most powerful way that we solve problems, express ideas and shape our world. What and how we make defines who we are, and communicates who we want to be... Many people think that craft is a matter of executing a preconceived form or idea, something that already exists in the mind or on paper. Yet making is also an active way of thinking, something which can be carried out with no particular goal in mind. In fact, this is a situation where innovation is very likely to occur. Even when making is experimental and open-ended, it observes rules. Craft always involves parameters, imposed by materials, tools, scale and the physical body of the maker. Sometimes in making, things go wrong. An unskilled maker, hitting the limits of their ability, might just stop. An expert, though, will find a way through the problem, constantly unfolding new possibilities within the process." I just found out about an exhibition at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London; The Power of Making. The V&A and Crafts Council celebrate the role of making in our lives by presenting an eclectic selection of over 100 exquisitely crafted objects, ranging from a life-size crochet bear to a ceramic eye patch, a fine metal flute to dry stone walling. Power of Making is a cabinet of curiosities showing works by both amateurs and leading makers from around the world to present a snapshot of making in our time. The exhibition showcases works made using a diverse range of skills and explores how materials can be used in imaginative and spectacular ways, whether for medical innovation, entertainment, social networking or artistic endeavour. Making is the most powerful way that we solve problems, express ideas and shape our world. What and how we make defines who we are, and communicates who we want to be. For many people, making is critical for survival. For others, it is a chosen vocation: a way of thinking, inventing and innovating. And for some it is simply a delight to be able to shape a material and say ‘I made that’. The power of making is that it fulfills each of these human needs and desires. Those whose craft and ingenuity reach the very highest levels can create amazing things. But making is something everyone can do. The knowledge of how to make – both everyday objects and highly-skilled creations – is one of humanity’s most precious resources. Items on show include a life-sized crocheted bear, an electric guitar worn on a high heel, extreme cake decorating, and our old friend the Makerbot. The show also includes a Tinkerspace - meet designers, and see Making in action

Posted by Kiteman 6 years ago


Haney Ryhmä: WTI Crude klo pohjalukemissa, EU Probing Hinta sopiminen - thehaneygroup.com

Haney Ryhmä: WTI Crude klo pohjalukemissa, EU Probing Hinta sopiminen Haney ryhmä tarkkailee West Texas raa'asta hinnat laskivat alimmalle merkin lähes kaksi viikkoa, markkinoiden yleistä merkkejä tarvikkeita nousussa. EU: n viranomaiset tutkivat öljy-yhtiöiden osalta kilpailusääntöjen rikkomisesta koskee hintakeinottelun. Molemmat kehitys oikeinkirjoitus ulos tarkkaavainen sijoittajan kiinteää tuottoa. "Futures juuri muuttuneet New Yorkissa pudottuaan neljä päivää jatkuvien laski kokonaisuutena luomaan pisin tappiot tänä vuonna. Raakaöljyn varastot sai 1,1 miljoonaa tynnyriä viime viikolla, mukaan API. Tänään julkaistussa raportissa esitetään varastojen nousi 450000 tynnyriä. Yhdessä lisätietoja rikkomatta noin Royal Dutch Shell, BP, Statoil ASA ja Plattsin tutkitaan sen jälkeen, kun uutiset EU komissio teki ratsioita kolmessa maassa. Todistaa jälleen kerran, että erilaisuuden kiinteät voitot kysymys siitä, onko markkinoilla liikkuu ylös tai alas oikea analyysi, "David Holmes varatoimitusjohtaja Yritysjärjestelyt Haney Group kertoi tänään. "Vaihto-omaisuus ovat korkeat, ei ole geopoliittisia asioita tällä hetkellä, ja teollisuuden tarvitse pitää matalaa profiilia, koska tutkimukset tulee öljyä", David Holmes totesi ja lisäsi: "Kuulemme raportit ennustavat, että West Texas putoaa 92,50 dollaria tai pienempi tynnyri. " WTI tuottaa kesäkuussa oli 94,01 dollaria tynnyriltä, ​​alas 20 senttiä tänään. Volyymi kaikista sopimuksista oli 59 prosenttia alle 100 päivän keskiarvon. Hinnat laskivat 96 senttiä 94,21 dollaria eilen, suurin pudotus vuodesta 1. toukokuuta. Brent Crude tuottaa kesäkuussa laski 25 senttiä 102,35 dollaria tynnyriltä Lontoossa. EU: n tavoitteena oli palkkio 8,34 dollaria ja WTI, alas 8,39 dollaria päivänä. EU: n komissio tutkii tietoja, että yritykset voivat sopia salaisesti raportoinnissa vääristynyt hintojen hinta raportointi virasto manipuloida julkaistujen hintojen useita öljy-ja muita tuotteita. Shell ja muut tietysti sanovat "täydessä yhteistyössä" tutkimuksessa. Mahdolliset rikkomukset liittyvät hinnat Platts. "Tämä on kiinteä suuntaus seuraamaan nyt aika saada laivalla, strateginen suunnittelu johtaa saavuttaa kannattavan lopussa sijoittajien kannalta on tavoite" päättyi Haney konsernin varatoimitusjohtaja David Holmes huomautuksen. http://www.biggerpockets.com/blogs/4058/blog_posts/28191-the-haney-group-wti-crude-at-a-low-with-eu-probing-price-fixing    

Posted by DELETED_jansenisrael 4 years ago


How to save an oiled penguin (with knitting!)

Biologist Jeremy Gray explains how penguins are cleaned up after the New Zealand spill: First the penguins must be warm and happy. Most are kept overnight before washing, as it is very stressful and they need to get their strength up. Then the birds are brought into the cleaning room and put on the table. Normally detergent is used to clean wildlife caught in an oil slick.  But the fuel oil that's spilled from the Rena is really thick, so we first rinse the birds with canola oil, sold as cooking oil at the supermarket. This helps soften the fuel oil and get off the really thick stuff. Then the penguin is washed multiple times in 25L basins of warm water - about 41C, to match the bird's body temperature - with 100ml of dishwashing detergent in each basin. We use specially imported dishwashing liquid that's the best for the job. We change water four or five times. One vet holds the bird, while the other scrubs it. We have toothbrushes for the delicate bits. Once the oil is gone, the bird gets a final rinse in warm water only, and is then checked for any missed spots, and the detergent is washed off. It takes about 45 minutes to an hour for each bird to be washed. The birds are then taken to a clean room and put under heat lamps and blowers to dry. The clean room is strictly oil-free - no-one who has touched any oil is even allowed in, in order to prevent recontamination. Once clean and dried, the birds are kept in a water tank until healthy enough to be released. And swimming in clean water lets them preen their feathers back to their natural condition. During my shift - we're only allowed to work eight hours - I helped clean three penguins. And as I was sent home they were gearing up to do the rest. At the time there were six dirty penguins (seven until one died before cleaning), seven clean penguins, one clean seal and two clean shags. More penguins and seals have since arrived. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Now for the knitting... The penguins are in danger from the cold (they're penguins, duh!), but they do need jumpers.  A full-body woolly jumper stops them preening contaminated feathers  and ingesting the toxic oil. Volunteers have been using this pattern from Skeinz.com and knitting jumpers to keep the Little Blue penguins safe. So far, I have only seen photos of the jumper being worn by stuffed toys - if you come across one being used for real, could you let me know? More links: Oiled Wildlife Response Jeremy Gray's Flickr (the original source of the penguin photos)

Posted by Kiteman 6 years ago


Why do we have to go through the admin. to change our usernames?

I do understand to a point, for keeping things from getting out of hand with inappropriate text, and I agree with that part, but, I don't agree that we need to wait for the change and the eye over our shoulder in this accelerated www. There are programs out there to filter out and work with the feeds and to keep things lined up right. And, why is it that way; that we need to be monitored here in Instructibles concerning our user-names. We are supposed to have intelligent enough caps on that make us decent people; being that we already have the capacity to be productive members in society, inventive and resourceful, helpful, and competitive for all purposes in research and creating stuff that is new, or old stuff revisited. Is this site that bad? When someone gets inappropriate with things, they have to have outside correction, and then they get watched for avoidance of any future haps because of past haps. This scenario seems to be the case here too, as with countless other sites; but all members get affected through blanket rules brought on by the ones who would show their colors in the lack of their morals. I would ask all who would otherwise give no caring thoughts and understanding on how you would present yourselves on the internet or in the life around you; please rethink how you would put yourself out there for others to see and read about, talk to or have accounts with. The way you look and appear to people who don't want their site trashed with that type of garbage of inappropriateness, is going to make Admins make blanket rules to counter-battle it, thus affecting all users, and creating the atmosphere of distrust in the site among the users ~vs~ the admins. I also wish you well in your future for making good choices that affect you and many who you don't even know in this world that would otherwise experience unfortunate reasoning and control factors as a result of the ugliness that has to be cleaned up... We are all a part of the community in this world, we need to respect ourselves more by carrying a good set of morals and using them ( I don't mean get bigger egos, or fine tune so we can lash back when confronted by our own garbage output). You would be amazed at how different your lives would be, along with the people around you. You'll gain much more respect than you have now; trust me, I know it from my own changes to become a better person.  Start with a smile to some one, It would make people feel happy and smile back; present yourselves with discretion and respectfulness, you should see changes quickly...much respect and trust is to be gained... (c-:

Asked by Discoveritagain 7 years ago