Introduction: 12-Step Washer/Dryer Pedestal

So like many others, I decided to build my own washer/dryer pedestals for my new front loader washer and dryer, because the factory ones are a rediculous $600!!  Overall, the materials cost me around $150, a savings of $450!!  It's well worth it, and looks great, if you have a little time on your hands. 

The dimensions of this particular pedestal are 54" L x 26" W x 17 1/4" H.  I had to use these dimensions because the space where my washer/dryer is very small.  I also wanted the storage space underneath for laundry baskets and such.  The height from the ground to the bottom of the frame is 13", perfect for a standard laundry basket, (I actually measured one...haha!)  You can adjust ANY measurements in this project to fit your needs/space.

The materials you will need (from Home Depot) are:
(1) 3/4" MDF board cut to 54" x 26" (for top) You can get 1" plywood instead if you want to save more money, but the MDF provides a very smooth and durable finish after painting.
(6) 2x4x8 (for frame and support bracing)
(1) 4x4x8 (for legs)
(1) 1/4" 4x8 sheet of sanded plywood (for paneling on the bottom)
(1) 8 feet of corner trim (for bottom corners)
(1) 9 feet of 2 1/8" trim for front and sides (You can choose your own design and width, my wife chose an ivy vine pattern which happened to be 2 1/8")  Just be sure it's at least 1 1/2" width the cover the seam between the top board and the frame.
(1) Box of 2 inch wood screws
(8) 3 inch screws (heavy duty lag bolt style, these are to attach the legs to the frame)  I guess you could use through bolts with nuts and washers instead, but the screws seem to make it pretty sturdy. 
(1) Small box 3/4" brad nails (for trim)
(1) Wood filler
(1) Quart of paint of your choice (I chose Martha Stewart Living High Gloss interior from the Precious Metals color board in Metallic Silver)
(2) Cans spray primer (Kilz)
Small paintbush and smooth roller
220 and 400 grit 1/4 sheet sand paper for palm sander
Tack cloth
Standard carpentry tools: Circular saw, compound miter saw, palm sander, hammer, nail punch, drill, drill bits, measuring tape, triangle, yard stick, pencil etc etc, use what you need to get the job done...:)

Safety Precautions:  ALWAYS wear the proper safety equipment using power tools.  Please wear safety glasses or goggles using a circular saw, and a dust mask while using a sander.   

NOTE: ALL MEASUREMENTS CAN BE ADJUSTED TO MEET YOUR NEEDS.

Step 1: Building the Frame

Step 1:  Build the frame to 54" x 26" using the 2x4's.  My cuts were (2) at 54" and (5) at 23".  Countersink screws.  Determine which sides of the frame are front and back, and mark accordingly.  I chose the best looking side cosmetically for the FRONT.

Step 2: Attaching the Top

Step 2:  Attach the MDF/plywood TOP using the 2" wood screws, making sure you countersink and pre-drill pilot holes.  Also make sure your countersink bit is nice and sharp because MDF board is very dense and tough.

Step 3: Attaching the Legs

Step 3:  Flip frame over with TOP down.  Precut four 16 1/2" legs from the 4x4,  Attach legs using four 2 inch screws and two 3 inch lag bolts per leg to each inside corner of the frame.  See pics for configuration of legs and screw locations.  Be sure to pre-drill pilot holes for this step, to prevent the wood from splitting.  If you would like, you can probably add some "L" brackets to the inside of the legs for extra support.  Just be sure to attach the brackets to the FRAME and not the MDF top.

Step 4: Add Bracing and Bottom Paneling Anchor Points

Step 4:  Add 2x4 support braces in between each leg on the sides and back.  You will add these on the top (just under the frame) and bottom (even with the ground), in between the legs on the sides and the back.  See pics for locations noted.  You will have to measure between the legs to get your lengths.  My cuts were (2) 44" and (4) 15 1/2".  These will also serve as anchoring points for your bottom paneling.  Notice the 4"x4" blocks I used to attach the bracing.

Step 5: Attach Front and Side Trim

Step 5:  Measure, cut and attach the 2 1/8" front and side trim using 3/4" brad nails.  Countersink nails using nail punch.

Step 6: Bottom Paneling Added

Step 6:  Measure, cut and install 1/4" paneling to enclose the bottom legs using 3/4" brad nails.  The cuts I made were 51"x13", 44"x13", (2) 23"x13", (2) 19"x13".  Please measure your project before making cuts, as some of you may have different dimensions.

Step 7: Corner Trim Added

Step 7:  Measure, cut and install corner trim using 3/4" brad nails. I cut 6 pieces, all 13" in length.  I recommend pre-drilling pilot holes to prevent cracking (lesson learned) using a very small drill bit.  Countersink nails using nail punch.

Step 8: Using Wood Filler

Step 8:  Fill all screw holes, nail holes and imperfections using the wood filler. Let dry for a couple hours, or use a box fan to speed up the process, as I did.

Step 9: Sanding

Step 9:  Sand, sand and more sanding.  I used 220 grit on my palm sander.  Make sure every surface is smooth.  Wipe clean with tack cloth, and if you really want it clean and dust free, pour some denatured alcohol on a lint free rag and wipe the entire project down.

Step 10: Spray Primer

Step 10:  Apply 2 coats of Kilz spray primer, letting it dry for 30 minutes in between.

Step 11: Light Sanding Before Applying Paint

Step 11:  VERY LIGHTLY sand the primered surface with 400 grit sand paper, if using a palm sander, DO NOT apply any pressure, just let the sander's weight glide across the surfaces.  Wipe the entire project down one last time using tack cloth and denatured alcohol.  This will give it a very very smooth surface for painting.

Step 12: Painting

Step 12:  Paint with your choice of color and/or texture.  Apply a very light coat at first, let dry for 30 minutes, then apply a 2nd slightly heavier coat, let dry for 1 hour, then finally, a 3rd coat, let dry for 24 hours and you should have a very durable, smooth finish!

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