Introduction: 2010 Ford Fusion HID Fogs Installation
Picked up a 3000K HID kit on ebay for $25.12. Thinking about this, I realize that the replacement H11 halogens are $14.99 and at that price I am actually spending less money doing the HID upgrade. Here's a pic of half way through with a 3000K bulb in the passenger side and a regular halogen in the driver side.
Step 1: Raise the Car/Tools
However you need to raise the car must be determined by you, but I did it using some car ramps. I needed to put them at the end of my driveway so they'd fit under the front bumper. You could drive the car to the edge of a curb that is pretty tall and find some clearance that way, but I'd say in all cases you'll need to have this clearance to do the job. Once your car is in position engage the emergency brake and chock the wheels.
You'll need a flashlight, 7mm nut driver or ratchet and 7mm socket, a trim removal tool ( I bought my whole kit for $7 at harbor freight), the HID kit, angle cutters, some long ty-wraps, shop towel or equivalent, an hour or so of time.
You'll need a flashlight, 7mm nut driver or ratchet and 7mm socket, a trim removal tool ( I bought my whole kit for $7 at harbor freight), the HID kit, angle cutters, some long ty-wraps, shop towel or equivalent, an hour or so of time.
Step 2: Remove Screws in Lower Access Panel on Passenger Side
There are five screws and one rivet that you'll need to remove in order to get to the fog light. See the picture below for the location of these five screws. Remove the lowest rivet on the front side of the inner fender.
Step 3: Pull the Access Panel Away
After removing the five screws and one rivet, force the access panel away from the front bumper by pushing it toward the rear of the car. It will move easily. Bring it all the way back (farther than shown in picture) and let it hang down.
Step 4: Locate Bulb and Remove
Once you've got the access panel out of the way you'll have a clear view of the fog light. Pry the plug tabs outward and then pull down on the plug to remove it from the bulb. Next, twist the bulb counter-clockwise and remove it.
Step 5:
Install HID bulb into fog light housing, connect up the wires and then check that the lights are working. You'll need the ignition key in the run position in order for the fogs to turn on. NOTE: I found that the car fog light plug needed to be removed, reversed and re-inserted on two occasions. The bulb would not turn on and apparently there is a polarity requirement on the HID ballasts I purchased, so if you find that your setup is all plugged in and they still don't turn on, try unplugging the fog light connector and reversing it.
On the passenger side there were two holes in the car, located right where I have the ballast in the picture. I used these holes to secure the ballast to the car.
On the passenger side there were two holes in the car, located right where I have the ballast in the picture. I used these holes to secure the ballast to the car.
Step 6: Re-attach Access Panel
Slide the access panel back into position. Make sure to slide the access panel in above the lower bumper and also above the inner cowl panel. Once it is in place, insert the five screws but don't tighten them all the way. Re-install the rivet at the bottom of the inner fender. Gently move the access panel to position it in it's proper place. Tighten the five screws and then close the rivet.
Step 7: Drivers Side Install
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Access the driver side fog in the same manner as the passenger side. Everything will pretty much be the same except there are no holes to attach the ballast to. I used two ty-wraps to secure the ballast to the frame of the car. There was a small opening, enough to slide the ty-wrap through. I brought it through the mounting hole of the ballast and then between the connectors. This seems to do a decent job of keeping the ballast in place.
Access the driver side fog in the same manner as the passenger side. Everything will pretty much be the same except there are no holes to attach the ballast to. I used two ty-wraps to secure the ballast to the frame of the car. There was a small opening, enough to slide the ty-wrap through. I brought it through the mounting hole of the ballast and then between the connectors. This seems to do a decent job of keeping the ballast in place.