3 Channel Digital LED Strip WS2812 Controller




Introduction: 3 Channel Digital LED Strip WS2812 Controller

About: Indie game developer, Google Play: https://play.google.com/store/apps/developer?id=M.G.+ELECTRONIC&hl=en

I have always wanted an inexpensive way to control multiple digital led strips.

This instructable shows all the steps I went through in designing and building this project.

Step 1: How It Works:

It works based on microcontroller Arduino Nano ATmega328 and program Arduino, which is in C++. In program, we define each led strip, how many numbers of led diode does it have and color for each led diode individual.

Step 2: Let's Start, Parts and Tools:


  • 1 x Arduino Nano Atmega328
  • 4 x 470Ω resistor
  • 1 x 10kΩ resistor
  • 1x fuse 2A (based on your needs)
  • 3 x LED strip type WS2812
  • 1x PCB plate
  • 5 x Input / output terminals

Total amount = 16 parts


  • Solder gun and solder
  • Wire cutters
  • Needle nose pliers
  • Drill and drill points
  • Hand or powered saw
  • Rotary Tool
  • Sandpaper
  • Digital multimeter
  • thinner
  • rosin powder
  • brush
  • stronger plastic pot
  • Safety Glasses :)

Step 3: Designing a PCB With Computer:

To create a circuit that is fixed, you can choose between hand-drawn and
computer design. Before we start with any mode, we need to have absolutely all the components (elements) on the table, because it is necessary for the production rate of each individual element and a range of terminals (pins) element. This is good for us to make a nice visual and not overcrowded circuit, because if you would not have previously elements on the table, it could after the drawing during the manufacture of the elements too compressed or even would not be enough space to be firmly installed in the circuit.

The product will be formed with the help of a computer program EAGLE
(Easily Applicable Graphical Layout). The program allows us to draw power plan, and then using it to draw the plate elements and connections. Once you have done the layout elements and links between them we have need before printing connections on a sheet, set in the program Mirror function, otherwise the circuit seen by bird perspective. When pressed on the link list do with a ruler lightly network that we had on the computer while drawing connections is 1/10 inch (2,54mm).

This program is free and can be downloads from this link:

I have made my own PCB board in computer program EAGLE, if you want to use my designed PCB i have posted my file for use in program EAGLE.

Step 4: Preparing the PCB :

Preparation of plates:
We are ready for the production of circuit boards, for the manufacture of the plate is used which is drilled in the form of a network that is 1/10 inch, and has on one side the copper islands. First, we cut at an appropriate size, taking care that the cut to a bigger surface area than the surface of the links. To have on at least one side type of copper islets blank. Then, purification of copper islands with iron sponge so that on smooth rubbed in one lengthwise (forwards-backwards) and without the circular movements. This work is to get clean copper from dirt from the upper surface that has been accumulated. Clarified top surface of copper needs to shine. Sharp edges rounded off.

The dimensions of the circuit:

Length: 19 in spacing of 1 / 10inch Network (4,8cm)

Width: 17 in spacing of 1 / 10inch Network (4,3cm)

Step 5: Solder Part:

Solder part
Then take a cut plate and sheet in which the connections and electrical elements and begin by soldering elements and dragging the links for copper islands.Take care that the soldering tip is always clean, because it is helping to create better connections and faster solubility of tin.

Step 6: Verification and Protective Liquid:

Then comes a phase in which the conductivity is checked connections and possible short circuits and what possible missed connections. When we find that all connections are correct and we do not have any error going on a protective spread connection and the lower part of the circuit.

Protective liquid:

This is done on the stronger plastic pot (from an empty glue for wood cut container in the middle and give the cup) and pour thinner rosin powder and stir with a brush so long that the dust in fully decomposition, we obtain the fluid is yellow. If you pour the liquid into a softer plastic cup, after 1 min will eats it from the bottom, since it practically eats things because it is corrosive. When we have a brush greased underside of the circuit, leave the coating is dried, so we links give protection against oxidation. The coating is not relevant when soldering, so you can still fix anything.

Step 7: Specifications Circuit and Connection:

Specifications circuit (U, I, P):

  • U = 5VDC
  • I = (Based on fuse and program) A

Step 8: Programing Microcontroller:

You can download the Arduino IDE for free from:


Step 9: Video of Working:

I hope that you enjoyed following me along with this Instructable!

Thank you for reading!

Check out the video :) :


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    Question 1 year ago on Step 2

    sorry to bother you, but i need a little help with a project i am building and I saw your LED video and thought it best to reach out to you.

    I am building a trike from a Triumph motorcycle for drag racing- for dis abled veterans.
    At the moment I am in the final stages of building the body, and i need to sort out lighting for the SVA examination to get it ready for use.
    I have sorted indicators , driving lights and reverse lights.
    The brake light is the issue.
    I want to have lighting in the rear venturi apertures in a similar design to the new Lotus Evija electric car, so I looked around for months to find something that i could use, and i found these see ebay link.
    They happen to be 40" long the exact circumference of the venturi on the body.
    The arrived and fit perfectly, as you find when you buy chinese products something is always wrong.
    I bought two sets, one the controller was faulty.
    On operation i found that the brake light function is perfect
    Indicators I cannot use due to wrong colour
    Driving light-( dimmed output) was ok but the controller makes sections of the strip light up full brightness randomly.
    I reached out to the seller and they advised this is the same on all.
    I asked them to see if the manufacturer will advise how to stop it happening or how to adjust the controller and they would not respond to me.
    I am no electronics wiz, and my thing is mechanical engineering.
    I was wondering if you could figure it out and build a controller that will work on a range of 10V to 14V supply that could run both strips to provide two states dimmed and full brightness on the whole length of the strip, having being energised with 12V provide the dimmed and a 12v input for the higher output brightness trigger?
    I am happy to pay you for your efforts, but time is of the essence.

    Are you able to help?