30 Watt Led Worklight
Intro: 30 Watt Led Worklight
This is my try to replace the energy-hungry 150watt halogen floodlight I use for working on my lathe.
I think it went well..
I think it went well..
STEP 1: The Parts
The basic components and electronics are from DealExtreme.com
the led
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/30w-2400lm-led-emitter-metal-plate-white-16v-18v-39959
the driver
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/2000ma-30w-power-constant-current-source-led-driver-85-265v-42746
the optics
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/59mm-20mm-15-120-degree-99-transmittance-glass-optic-13569
a PVC pipe, a pipe holder, a p4 heat sink and an old 24volt fan.
I suppose that connecting the led to the driver and mounting it on the heat sink with the optics is self explanatory so the photographs are enough.
the led
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/30w-2400lm-led-emitter-metal-plate-white-16v-18v-39959
the driver
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/2000ma-30w-power-constant-current-source-led-driver-85-265v-42746
the optics
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/59mm-20mm-15-120-degree-99-transmittance-glass-optic-13569
a PVC pipe, a pipe holder, a p4 heat sink and an old 24volt fan.
I suppose that connecting the led to the driver and mounting it on the heat sink with the optics is self explanatory so the photographs are enough.
STEP 2: Test Fitting
Mounting the heat sink in the pipe at the front and making sure everything else fits.
STEP 3: The Holder
I took the one piece of the pipe holder,the one with the bold on it, straightened the sides and found a screw for the bolt.
I also made an L shaped bar to mount on the wall. Test fit everything using a rod passing through the pipe with a couple of spacers.
I also made an L shaped bar to mount on the wall. Test fit everything using a rod passing through the pipe with a couple of spacers.
STEP 4: Tidying and Painting
Since everything fits fine, I made connectors for the fan and led, some heat shrink for protection, some wire protection and of course some tape for isolation.
Then for some painting.Primer first and then black paint.
Then for some painting.Primer first and then black paint.
STEP 5: Putting It Together
After the paint has dried up, I cut the center rod to length and found 2 bolts to secure it on the pipe holder.
STEP 6: Comparison
Installed both lights for a comparison.
34 Comments
frollard 12 years ago
GrumpyOldGoat 12 years ago
If we couldn't, then all advances in technology would die off and it would be such a dreary place....
Who wants to live in a hell-hole where nobody can do anything, much less think outside (or inside) the box and make fun stuff?
frollard 12 years ago
GrumpyOldGoat 12 years ago
I have a belligerent drunk neighbor that forgets where the property line is on a regular basis so I build high power IR LED floodlights so the DA and Sheriff can go talk to him after they view the videos.
I saw a 3 million candlepower IR light on a chinese website, but I don't wanna blind the guy....
mrwolfe 12 years ago
GrumpyOldGoat 12 years ago
Safety first... second, third, etc.... ;=}
mrwolfe 12 years ago
ac-dc 12 years ago
omgitschrislol 12 years ago
mastelios 12 years ago
omgitschrislol 12 years ago
janern 12 years ago
Is the LED driver fitted in the housing with everyting else?
How is the fan connected to the driver, is there an ekstra output for a fan (12V perhaps), if the driver voltage is not fit for the fan directly?
A bit clumsy sentance there maybe, but you probably catch my drift :-)
mastelios 12 years ago
janern 12 years ago
Mike Nelson 12 years ago
great build!
I've got a 20W LED emitter myself, i just need a bigger heat sync for it, as I watched the temperature climb up to 165F before i got bored of watching it...
ac-dc 12 years ago
First, the heatsink is undersized for 30W load without the fan. Second, at the great increase in temperature the LEDs not only put out less light but also permanently degrade, further reducing light output at the elevated temperature so you end up with a greater reduction in light output than the increase in power consumption from the fan... assuming you use a modest fan not some high current, high RPM model.
Yes you could just pick a huge heatsink, at great cost (unless it's scrap/salvage/etc), size and weight. For some uses that is a reasonable tradeoff, but for others it isn't.
mastelios 12 years ago
mastelios 12 years ago
about your led, cpu heat sinks with thermal paste work great! the pentium4 ones are the best,or from older amds since these got hot!
Nerdz 12 years ago
ac-dc 12 years ago
There are some unscrupulous heatsink sellers which tried to claim otherwise and testing shows their errors, which is why people running 60W+ CPUs at full load (so it was near, but seldom actually at 60W) opted for mid to higher quality 'sinks instead of just "any ... skt A heatsink".
However you do have a valid point about looking at the era a heatsink comes from as CPUs, on average, climbed in power but even then, in each era you have to discriminate whether a heatsink is tailored towards performance, or low cost and size.
For example a product you can buy today as current generation - Sempron 140, socket AM3 retail packaged heatsink can't cope with more than about 60W, if that. They economized it because Sempron 140 has a max TDP of only 45W, and in actuality that's the per-family wattage for their faster model semprons too so the real max wattage is even lower.
The same is true on many modern heatsinks though there is great cooling potential:$ on today's multiple heatpipe sinks often on sale/rebate for about $20, those are generally good for about 140W or more and can cool a 30W LED array passively (w/o a fan).