3D Printed Headphone Holder

Introduction: 3D Printed Headphone Holder

Tired of letting your headphones lay on your desk to collect dust and look sloppy? Leave that behind and print this easy design for a great looking headphone stand. It's super easy, takes a small amount of material and works like a charm!


• A spool of plastic (Any color, any kind; I used bright orange PLA)

• Any type of 3D printer with ideally 7x7 inch base

• A modeling and slicing program - I used Fusion 360 and ideamaker

• A hot glue gun

Step 1: Designing the Base

First, you'll want to sketch out the base of the holder. The larger the base, the more stable it'll be. I made mine a 3"x3" square at a 1/4" thickness.

Step 2: Designing the Pillar

Next step is designing the pillar through the center. Make sure you use construction lines when you are making the pillar! The overall height of my design is 8.5". When you extrude the design, make sure you do a symmetrical extrusion. After that, you'll want to cut out the area in the base that the pillar will slot into.

Step 3: Designing the Top Plate

For the plate design, I made a flat 2" plate and put edges on it so the headphones wouldn't slip off. Make sure you do another symmetrical extrusion! There is no slot needed for the pillar in this particular step (We'll hot glue it later).

Step 4: Rounding Off Edges & Material Change (optional)

Final step in designing is making fillets and changing the material. I changed the material to PLA and made it a bright orange to match the plastic I'll be printing with.

Step 5: Slicing the Parts

I used ideamaker to slice my parts. I find it super intuitive and a great program. Not only is it intuitive, but it's a great program for starters. As you can see, I sliced all my parts separately. I tend to have a bit of stringiness, so it's better for me to print them as their own prints. If your printer allows, you'll save quite a bit of time if you print them as a whole.

Step 6: Printing

For these prints, I used a 12-15 percent infill. The temperatures I used were 196 degrees celsius for the nozzle temperature and 45 degrees celsius for the bed temperature. I printed in a basement that was around 60 degrees fahrenheit. I printed with a 0.12mm resolution. Again, I printed them all differently and got exceptional results.

Step 7: Assembly and Use

For the assembly, it couldn't be simpler. The pillar slots into the base (this should require lots of pressure! You don't want it to fall out on you, right...?) and the plate needs glued in the center of the top of the pillar. You can see in the pictures what the final product should look like and how it should function.

My takeaways:

The one major thing to avoid would be warping. In the picture, you may be able to see the pillar is slanted because of warping. Another takeaway would be the print resolution. Although 0.12mm res. works phenomenally, a lower res. could save lots of time and not take away from function. In all, it took about 6-8 hours to print and assemble the product and I couldn't be happier with the results (I hope you feel the same)!

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