3D Printed Horn Speaker

This is a simple, but great sounding speaker.

In the cross section you can see there's an integrated port designed for the specific speaker used in this build.

Here are the components you'll need to put this together.

• 3D prints of the speaker housing (2 parts per speaker) - https://a360.co/2ZgCbdU
• Speaker- https://www.parts-express.com/tang-band-w3-1878-3-...
• Binding Posts- https://www.parts-express.com/sure-electronics-mi...
• Amplifier- https://www.parts-express.com/topping-tp10-mk4-t-a...
• Speaker Wire- https://www.parts-express.com/rca-ah1650sr-16-awg-...
• 4x M4 Screws- http://www.mcmaster.com/#91290a150/=zjk1vc

Step 1: ​Print the Speaker Housing and the Stand

The speaker housing is designed to be printed on a desktop FDM printer. (I used an Ultimaker2 with PLA filament)

The legs are harder to print, but not impossible. With support material, you can print it on an FDM printer with variable results. (I used an Objet Connex 500 with Vera White)

Step 2: Assemble the Parts

First, you'll want to attach the wire to the binding posts. You can solder the wire directly to the post or use terminals to clip them on.

Once you have the binding post attached to wire, you can carefully assemble the binding post into the 3D printed housing. You'll want a pliers with a long reach to get to the nut at the bottom of the speaker to screw the binding post.

Next, attach the wire to the speaker.

And finally, screw the parts together with the M4 screws.

That's it! Pretty simple.

Comments

[sachsie]

What about the wood part in your Autodesk file? Is it required? Does it need to be merged with with the tube-part before 3D printing?

[cheewee2000]

sorry. the naming convention in the file was probably confusing. There are two parts to be printed. You can merge them and print it if your printer is big enough to print it in one go. Otherwise, you'll want to print those two pieces and screw it together along with the speaker driver.

[sachsie]

Thank you. My printer is running and the chassis are on the way. Looking forward to assemble them :-)

To late for me, but maybe of interest for other user: How would the actual measures change in order to use a less expensive and better available broadband chassis like the TangBand W3-2141?