Introduction: 3D Printed Magnetic Marble Run

By @CarmelitoA
About: Born as a farmer, studied electronics ,working as a Consultant and a 3D printing enthusiast by night..

Turn your refrigerator door into a kinetic playground !!! by 3D Printing the Magnetic marble run STL files attached in the steps below.

And once you've tried out all the possible permutations and combinations with the marble tracks, add some bling !! to your marble run using the fancy NeoPixel LEDs and the 3D printed enclosure..

The Instructable has basically 3 part, use the links below to get to the steps and download the STL files that your interested in.

#1 The 3D Printable files for the basic Marble Run

#2 Add some Fun moving parts,printed in green and blue in the second picture above

#3 Pimp! your marble run, using the awesome NeoPixels LED's.

Step 1: Collect the Tools You'll Need

  • 3D Printer, in my case I am using the Printrbot Simple metal to print all the part(make a note of the various slicer settings)
  • Filament, here are the list of filaments I have used

Hatchbox 1.75mm Blue, Orange,White PLA

Filament Outlet Black PLA 1.75mm PLA

Makerbot Yellow and Red 1.75mm PLA

  • Neodymium magnets
  • Hot Glue Gun and Hot Glue sticks
  • Marbles, diameter about 16.2 mm,I've picked up mine from the dollar store.

For the fancy NeoPixel LED Holder

Step 2: Basic Marble Run Part

The Basic Marble Run contains shapes that are slightly curved and straight.3D printed part snap together and then use Hot Glue and Neodymium Magnets.

In addition , toward the bottom of the run as shown in the pictures and video above there cup type holder to catch the Marble at the bottom.

Step 3: Basic Run : 3D Printed Part - Slicer Settings

To Print the Marble tracks real quick on your 3D printer modify the Slicer setting, this make take some experimentation and may depend on your printer and the software you use.

In my case I am using a Printrbot Simple Metal and Repetier-Host as my software, here are few important settings

  • Layer Heigh - 0.2mm
  • Top Layer - 3 and bottom - 2
  • Fill Patter - I found Honeycomb to give me good Strength and flexibility
  • Number of Skirts around the model 2 , to save filament as they are pretty big in size.

Step 4: Basic Run : 3D Print the STL Files - Curves

Download the STL file attached and load it in your printer software and slice the file, based on your printer setting,the Simple Curve Magnet base shown in the first picture

  • Slicing the STL file should take about 8-9 Seconds
  • And the print time should be about 8- 10 mins

And for the STL file simple curve that would snap into the magnetic base

  • Slicing the STL file should take about 3-5 Seconds
  • And the print time should be about 18- 22 mins

Tip: Print just one part at a time and adjust your slicer setting for fast and good quality print ,before printing multiple parts as shown in step 7.

Attachments

Step 5: Baic Run: Hot Glue the Magnets

Now using hot glue add the Neodymium magnet to holes in the 3D print as shown in the first picture.

Once the magnets are nice and secure add a little hot glue to the part which snaps into the bottom and then press and hold as shown in third and fourth picture

Step 6: Basic Run : 3D Print the STL Files - Kind Off Straight

Download the STL file attached and once your satisfied with your slicer setting load the same part a couple of times as shown in the second picture,in your printer software and slice the file, based on your printer setting,

the Straight run added

  • Slicing should take about 17-18 Seconds
  • And the print time should be about 20- 25 mins

And for the long cure with both the parts added together

  • Slicing should take about 10-12 Seconds
  • And the print time should be about 15 -20 mins

Once done Hot Glue the Magnets and two parts together.

Attachments

Step 7: Basic Run : U Changers

Now for the U changer STL files, I had to print one at a time because of the small bed size of the Printrbot, but feel free to add multiple if you have a larger bed size

For the WRightMagnet bases

  • Slicing should take about 5-6 Seconds
  • And the print time should be about 8- 10 mins

And for the WRight part that snaps into the magnet base

  • Slicing should take about 9-10 Seconds
  • And the print time should be about 15 -20 mins

Once done Hot Glue the Magnets and two parts together.

Attachments

Step 8: Basic Run : Simple Marble Cup Holder

If you plan on adding cool LED effect as you saw in the video above, 3D print the Marble Cup Holder in Transparent PLA.

For the Cup Holder Magnet base STL

  • Slicing should take about 10-12 Seconds
  • And the print time should be about 15- 18 mins

And for the Cup Holder part that snaps into the magnet base as shown in the picture above

  • Slicing should take about 3-5 Seconds
  • And the print time should be about 20 -25 mins

Once done Hot Glue the Magnets and two parts together.Here you'll need 3 Magents

Attachments

Step 9: Testing the Run With Basic Parts

Now that you have some basic parts ready, make track for your marble to flow as shown in the picture above .

And then use marble to test it , keep adjusting or making new track till your think you have tried all possible combination !! and then realize that it would be more fun to add some moving part which are detailed in the section below.

Step 10: Adding Moving Parts to the Basic Parts

Now if you bored with the basic run , let make things a little more interesting by adding moving part to the marble run as shown in the video and picture above.

Here we are going to 3D print a mustache shape direction changer in green and a spinning wheel in blue..

Step 11: 3D Printing the Direction Changer

Using the same slicer setting as that of the basic marble run , download the STL files and 3D Print, Note - in this case there is a separate part to glue the magnets.

Add the STL file to your 3D printing software ,the Direction changer bottom STL file

  • Slicing should take about 3-5 Seconds
  • And the print time should be about 7- 10 mins

And for the Direction changer top STL file

  • Slicing should take about 3-5 Seconds
  • And the print time should be about 15 -20 mins

Attachments

Step 12: 3D Printing the Direction Changer Magnet Holder

Now since this is a movable part , to add a magnet 3D print the cylindrical magnet holder part as shown in the picture above, I have printed a couple of them together

Download the STL file and add it to your 3D printing software a couple of times

  • Slicing should take about 8-10 Seconds
  • And the print time should be about 20 mins

Attachments

Step 13: Glue the Magnet and Test It Out

Using hot glue gun , glue the magnet to the black magnet holder as shown in the first picture.

Though the two green direction changes snap together add hot glue to secure them together.

Step 14: 3D Print the Moving Wheel

Now download the fancy Moving wheel STL files attached above.

Add the STL file to your 3D printing software ,the Rolling circle bottom STL file

  • Slicing should take about 3-5 Seconds
  • And the print time should be about 10- 12 mins

And for the Rolling circle Top STL file

  • Slicing should take about 5-7 Seconds
  • And the print time should be about 15 -20 mins

Here use the other cylindrical magnet holder than you had printed in the previous step and hot glue the magnet. And also use hot glue to secure the rolling circle top to the bottom

Attachments

Step 15: Making Space for the Moving Parts

Now get on too you Magnetic surface like your fridge door.

Make space for the movable part by rearranging basic parts as shown in the video above and give it a quick test..

If your wondering what my magnetic surface is in the video above , it is the door of the Air conditioning unit in my apartment.

Step 16: Pimp Your Marble Run With NeoPixel Led Lights

Now to add the Rainbow color LED lights at the bottom of your Marble run , 3D print the enclosure attached in the next step using transparent PLA filament.

And using a microcontroller and NeoPixel sticks light up the base cup holder as shown in the pictures and video above.

The circuit also has an ON/OFF switch which mean you can turn it on in the evening for some awesome effects and keep it off during the day..

In addition you can only follow this part of ible to light up the picture/what have you on your fridge, when your entertaining guests at home ..

Step 17: 3D Print the Enclosure

Download the STL files attached above.Add the STL file to your 3D printing software ,the magnet lid bottom STL file

  • Slicing should take about 11-15 Seconds
  • And the print time should be about 10- 12 mins

And for the NeoPixel Stick and trinket microcontroller holder STL file

  • Slicing should take about 5-7 Seconds
  • And the print time should be about 17-20 mins

Attachments

Step 18: Solder the Circuit - Battery and Switch

Fire up your Soldering Iron !

While you Soldering Iron is heating up cut the red wire of the Lipo battery as shown in the first picture above.

Strip the red wire and then using soldering iron Tin the wire as shown in the second picture above.

Add some heat shrink tubing to prevent the wires from shorting

Solder the ends of the wire to the to the switch.

Step 19: Solder the Trinket to Neo Pixels

Solder the circuit as shown in the circuit digram above

  • Connect the +ve(5V DC power) on the NeoPixel ring to Vout on the Trinket
  • Connect the -ve(GND) to GND
  • and connect the Din(Data Input) on the NeoPixel to #1 on Trinket

Tip : Pass all the wires through some heat shrink tubing to prevent them from tangling when your going to add it to the 3D Printed enclosure.

Step 20: Upload the Code Attached to the Trinket

To upload code attached to the Gemma you will have to download Adafruit's version of the Arduino IDE and install it on you computer.

For complete details on how to, follow this link

https://learn.adafruit.com/introducing-trinket

In addition as part of the setup you will have to download the NeoPixel library from the following link https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-neopixel-uber... Place the downloaded library in the /Arduino/Libraries folder and restart your IDE.

Now go to File ->Examples ->Adafruit_NeoPixel ->standtest, here since we are using trinket instead of an Arduino Uno ,

  • you'll have to modify the PIN from 6 to 1 as shown in the fourth screen shot
  • And modify the number from pixel from 60 to 8 , as we are using a NeoPixel stick which has 8 Pixels.

Next select the type of programer as show in the screenshot (Tools > Programmer > USBtinyISP)

Also select the board you are using (Tools > Board > Adafruit Trinket 8MHz ).

Then press the button located just below the chip on the Trinket, wait for Red light to blink bright red and then upload the code to the Trinket (File > Upload)

Step 21: Screw the NeoPixel Stick and Trinket to the Base

Now using screws, attach the NeoPixel strip to the base.

Pass the male and female JST connectors through the two opening , which are opposite the NeoPixel strips..

And then at the bottom of the 3D printed part , add another screw to hold the trinket in place.

Step 22: Hot Glue the Switch to the Base

Now before you use hold glue , shrink the tubing with a heat shrink gun or just use a lighter ..

Once done add Hot glue to the switch and add it to base, here once the switch is added quickly test it if your able to slide it up/down and then reinforce it with more Hot glue at the side.

Step 23: Hot Glue the Magnets to the Lid and Glue It to the Base

Hot glue the magnets to Lid as shown in the first picture above

And then hot glue the lid to the base.

Your done !! test it out by add it to your Marble Run just below the Cup holder.

Step 24: Recharging the Battery

Now to recharge the Lipo battery , ensure that the Switch is in the OFF position.

Unplug the JST connector and plug it into the Lipo charger.

Charge it using a wall adapter or your laptop..