Introduction: 3D Printed Pogo-inspiried Bluetooth Stereo With (questionable) Pulsing LED
Heya! This is a neat little thing I put together to celebrate the newly released album "Weightless" from one of my favourite artists: Pogo!
You can listen to his album here:
This is more of a "proof of concept" than a finished product. Because of this, the parts used are heavily temporarily, meaning they aren't that impressive nor will they last for more than a few months.
This project isn't a strict step by step, but more of a inspiration piece. This tutorial will teach you how to make a very simple bluetooth speaker in a fixed room. This means that you don't have to choose my design, and could choose a different design-, or material to keep the circuitry in.
Before we start, I want to say that these are heavily inspired by these three tutorials, and the design is a rip-off of Pogo's very own symbol: A space bunny.
https://www.instructables.com/id/Simple-10w-Blueto...
https://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Bluetooth-Spe...
Let's get started!
Step 1: The Parts, the Programs, and the Ugly !
First off, you would need a 3D-printer. I've been using the Ultimaker 3 at our college's lab. It's great because it has two plastic inputs: one that outputs plastic which will be used as the main material, the other one where it outputs plastic that is printed out and used as support/scaffolding for hovering platforms.
Second off, you'll be needing a 3D-modeling program. I used Autodesks very own 123D design. It's a good program for simple designs. Think of it as the MS Paint of 3D-modeling programs.
Third off, the parts.
2x Stereos - https://www.elfadistrelec.no/no/miniatyr-hoyttaler...
An amplifier - http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-PAM8403-5V-Power-Aud...
A bluetooth dongle - http://www.tp-link.com/us/products/details/cat-552... This one you're going to have to pry open, Mr.Strongman! (see pictures)
A powering element - http://www.tp-link.com/us/products/details/cat-552... As you see, there is already a charging input on the bluetooth dongle... Try to find something in the same variant...
A batterypack - https://www.adafruit.com/product/1959 Pry this one open too, Mr.Strongman!
Earbuds - Literally any 3.5mm audio jack earbuds.
Phone charger with micro usb - https://pics.onsizzle.com/welcome-to-home-depot-go...
Step 2: The Model. (alternative Option)
Form the model however you want. You can even just make it out of wood! I won't tell you what to do here as It's completely open for you imagination. Just leave some space inside of your design for the circuitry to be placed into.
I printed two ears, with a hole going through the base of the bolt that is sized to fit the two holes in the head. The ears were originally white, but I spray-painted them black because we ran out of white PLA for the head.
The head is split in the middle, where four magnets holds each other so form the head-base. This acts as a opening for the head. (see picture)
I also printed out a stand for the space-bunny head as it is completely round.
Step 3: The Circuitry.
First we have to power up the circuitry. Follow the first picture.
Cut open the phone charger micro usb wire. Make a split connection where the BLACK wire goes to gnd on the amplifier, but also continues to the origional micro usb output wire. Then also make a split connection where the RED wire goes to VCC on the amplifier, then also continues to the origional micro usb output wire. (Picture 2)
You will now have power to both the bluetooth board and the amplifier when you plug in the charger, and also plug in the micro-usb into the bluetooth board.
AUDIO
Second, we need the amplifier to realize what he should be amplifying, right? By some trial and error, you figure out that if you cut open the wire of earbuds, the BLUE one corresponds to LEFT, and the GREEN corresponds to RIGHT. The COPPER is GROUND, and if you have a RED, than this is probably just the wire to the microphone. You can ignore it.
Well, you already know which one is R, L, and G.( R = Right - Green, L = Left - Blue, G = Ground - Copper) All you need to do is hook it up to the amplifier. If you hook it all up, you will now have something that looks like picture 5. Good job! Your amplifier now knows what to amplify because it's getting it from the audiojack you've plugged into the bluetooth audiojack.
STEREO
On the stereo you can see a + and -. I wire them through the ears, and towards the amplifier corresponding to which ear (left or right) the stereo is on. Then you hook up the + wire with the + input on the amplifier board. Same goes for the - wire with the - input on the amplifier board. (See picture 6 for how the stereo is wired, and picture 7 and 8 for how it's hooked up inside the bunny.)
Step 4: Last Push
LED
All you really need to do for this part is to watch the youtube I've referenced. You make some short of LED strip, hooking them up together on picture 2. The platform for the strip I used was just cardboard paper. Then hook the minus side of the LEDs together in one wire strip (ORANGE) and then hook the plus side of the LEDs together in its own strip (BLACK). Then, hook the plus wires to the plus input of the stereo, and the minus wires to the minus input of the stereo. Do this with both.
DISCLAIMER: THIS IS THE QUICKEST AND MOST UNSAFE METHOD TO USE. DOING THIS AND HAVING THE AMPLIFIER ON FULL WILL BREAK THE LEDS. USE A TRANSISTOR IF NEEDED.
BATTERY
You can either choose to open up a small hole and have the USB out in the open so all you have to do is to power it up using a 5V phone charger with 0,5A or more. (Picture 3)
Or you could break open a cheap batterypack and use that instead. (You don't really have to open it up if you have space for the whole thing). See picture 4 and out. Open it up, put it inside your speaker, hook it up to the USB that was supposed to go to the charger. Place it inside of the compartment, and close the lid. BAM. Done!
Step 5: Done!
And you're done!
This whole project was done in MAKERSPACE on HIOF, "Høgskolen i Østfold" - "Østfold University College" during a contest to make anything really. Special thanks to those responsible at Maker Space for helping me with the project.
