3D Printed Pumping Foilboard

Here is how I made my hybrid pumping foilboard using a combination of 3D printing and composite materials!

The structure, tools, and cutting templates are all 3D printed, while the composite materials provide the board with enhanced solidity and stiffness.

Supplies

About tools:

• 3D printer (of course!)
• Electric sander (hand sander also works)
• Sandpaper (sizes 80, 120, 240, 320, etc.)
• Cutter
• Clamps & spring clips
• Masking & plastic tape
• Paper towel, newspaper or toilet paper
• File and pliers
• Container for the epoxy resin
• Brush for the epoxy resin (silicone brushes are reusable)
• Squeegee (you can 3D print one: link to Cults3D)
• Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): protection gloves, goggles, face shield, overalls...
• Vacuum system and related things (I don't have one...)

About materials and things to buy:

• Two 26 cm (10 inches) US foil rail (I bought mine on AliExpress)
• EVA foam sheet for water application (I bought a sheet of 37x92 cm on AliExpress)
• Approximately 2 kg of PLA or PETG filament
• Approximately 1,5 kg of epoxy resin
• Carbon fiber (I used 200 g/m²) - the quantity depends on how much you want to put on your board
• Minimum 4 m² of glass fiber (300 g/m²)
• 25 g of Super glue

Step 1: CAD Design Overview

I designed this board using SolidWorks CAD software.

To make it printable on my Original Prusa MK3S, I divided the model into twenty smaller parts. Additionally, I printed numerous small hexagons and joints to reinforce the structure during assembly.

In addition, I also designed cutting templates for carbon pads & foam shapes.

Step 2: 3D Printing Process

Here we go for a lot of printing work!

You can find STL files here: link to Cults3D

I printed all the parts using a combination of PLA and PETG materials, totaling 160 hours of printing time with a layer height of 0.2 mm.

Due to the shape of the board, you will need to use supports during printing and remove them afterward. You can use files and pliers to clean up your parts.

If you have access to a large 3D printer with a build surface of 1000 mm by 500 mm, you're in luck! You can print the entire board in one piece and skip the next step.

Step 3: Assembly of the 3D Printed Structure

This step can be a bit tricky, but fortunately, the 3D printed joints and hexagons will be helpful. Just take your time!

Number of joints: 18

Number of hexagons: as much as you need

Please refer to the picture where you can see the "joint" (blue) and "hexagon" (grey) parts that are fitted inside the board. Simply glue them during the assembly process.

Tips:

• Avoid trying to glue the entire board at once. Proceed row by row and allow time for each row to dry. (I personally spread the gluing process over several days).
• Use an ample amount of glue.
• Clamp the parts together and let them dry. Spring clips can be used to keep the hexagons in place.
• Utilize "Tool hexagon" to assist with clamping.

Hexagons are very thin (0,4 mm) and almost invisible once installed. Like the joints, they are really important to strenghten the structure. Add as many hexagons as needed for reinforcement.

Step 4: Cleaning the Structure

To clean the structure from any stringing or excess glue, you can use sandpaper (sizes 80 and 120) by hand. This process will help smoothen the surface and remove any unwanted imperfections.

Step 5: Gluing the US Foil Rails

Now it's time to glue the rails using epoxy resin casting.

Before proceeding, double-check how you inserted the rails into the structure.

First, let's prepare the rails:

1. Place some paper towel or another absorbent material inside the rails to catch any resin in case of a leak.
2. Use masking tape to seal the openings of the rails. Apply it securely to cover the entire opening.
3. Cut off the excess tape along the outline of the opening and ensure it is still properly sealed.
4. Seal the opposite side of the rails using plastic tape. In your case, you sealed the top side of the board. Take care to prepare it well to avoid resin leaks. Be generous with the tape!

Now, let's cast the epoxy resin:

1. Ensure your work area is clean and protected with old newspaper or a tarp.
2. Make sure your parts are securely sealed, properly mounted, and clean.
3. Prepare the epoxy resin (I started with a first round of 30 g of resin) and mix both components according to the instructions provided by your resin manufacturer
4. Fill the gaps between 3D printed structure and the rails with the epoxy resin.
5. Repeat this process until the rails are completely filled with resin.
6. Let it dry for a minimum of 24 hours

If you encounter a resin leak during the process, don't worry. Simply repeat this step one more time.

Step 6: Planing the Rails

Everything is dry. It's time to remove the tape, clean and plane the rails!

Start by carefully removing the tape and paper towel from the rails.

To remove any excess resin and achieve a smooth finish, use an electric sander equipped with sandpaper (sizes 80 and 120). Gently sand the surface, paying close attention to the areas where resin may have overflowed.

If necessary, you can also carefully sand the plastic rails themselves to ensure they are flat and flush with the 3D printed structure on both sides of the board. Continue sanding until everything is flat and perfectly smooth.

After sanding, it's important to clean the board thoroughly. You can rinse it with water, giving it a light shower, and then let it dry completely before moving on to the next step.

Take your time during this process to ensure a clean and smooth result.

Step 7: Laminating the First Carbon Patch

Let's begin the carbon lamination process, starting with the bottom side of the board where the openings of the rails should be.

Follow these steps:

1. As before, place some paper towel or absorbent material inside the rails. Use masking tape to seal the rails. Cut along the outline of the opening as closely as possible and remove any excess tape. Ensure a secure seal.
2. Use masking tape to delimit the area where you want to apply the carbon patch. You can use the cutting template for carbon to assist you.
3. Carefully cut a piece of carbon material, making sure the cutout area is larger than the cutting template by at least 3 cm all around.
4. Place the carbon piece on the board, and you can secure it with masking tape (alternatively, you can secure it after pouring the resin).
5. Prepare the resin as before (approximately 25 g should be enough).
6. Start applying the resin from the center to the sides using a squeegee.
7. Allow it to dry for about 4 to 8 hours, depending on how well it cures.
8. Use the 3D printed cutting template and center it on the carbon and rails.
9. Carefully cut along the outline using a sharp cutter.
10. Pay attention and use gloves: remove the excess partially cured carbon and masking tape.
11. Cut a slit for the opening of the rails and then carefully cut the outline of each opening. Remove any excess carbon. It's okay if your cuts aren't perfect as they can be refined later.
12. Let it dry for a minimum of 24 hours.

Step 8: Laminating the Second Carbon Patch

Now, let's move on to the top side of the board.

Follow these steps:

1. Ensure that the surface is still clean. If necessary, clean and sand any epoxy residue from the previous step to create a smooth and even surface.
2. Once again, use masking tape to delimit the area where you want to apply the carbon patch. You can utilize the cutting template for carbon to assist you in achieving the desired shape and size.
3. Carefully cut a piece of carbon material, making sure the cutout area is larger than the cutting template by at least 3 cm all around.
4. Place the carbon piece on the board, and you can secure it with masking tape (alternatively, you can secure it after pouring the resin).
5. Prepare the resin as before (approximately 25 g should be enough).
6. Start applying the resin from the center to the sides using a squeegee.
7. Allow it to dry for about 4 to 8 hours, depending on how well it cures.
8. Use the 3D printed cutting template and center it on the carbon and rails.
9. Carefully cut along the outline using a sharp cutter.
10. Pay attention and use gloves: remove the excess partially cured carbon and masking tape.
11. Let it dry for a minimum of 24 hours.

Step 9: Sanding the Carbon Laminations

Sand (sizes 80, 120) any epoxy residue from the previous steps to create a smooth and even surface.

Step 10: Laminating the First Glass Layer

Now, let's laminate the top side of the board with glass fiber.

Follow these steps:

1. Ensure that the surface is clean.
2. Use masking tape to delimit the outline of the board. Apply the tape around the middle of the thickness of your board. This tape will act as a barrier to catch any excess epoxy resin during lamination.
3. Carefully cut a piece of glass fiber material, making sure the cutout area is larger than the board by at least 10 cm all around.
4. Place the glass fiber piece on the board, and you can secure it with small weights such as tape rolls to hold it in place.
5. Prepare the epoxy resin as before (approximately 60 g should be enough), following the instructions provided with your resin.
6. Start applying the resin from the center of the board towards the sides using a squeegee, ensuring even and thorough coverage of the glass fiber.
7. If needed, you can secure the edges of the lamination with masking tape.
8. Allow the resin to dry for about 4 to 8 hours, depending on the curing time specified for your particular resin.
9. Remove the masking tape band carefully, taking care not to disturb the freshly applied resin.
10. Let the board dry for a minimum of 24 hours to ensure complete curing of the epoxy resin.

Step 11: Light Sanding of Rails

Using sandpaper with a grit size of 120, apply a light sanding by hand to the rails of your board. This step is important to smoothen any rough edges or imperfections that may have resulted from the previous lamination process.

After sanding, carefully remove any sanding dust or debris from the rails before proceeding to the next step.

Step 12: Laminating the Second Glass Layer

Now, let's laminate the bot side of the board with glass fiber.

Follow these steps:

1. Ensure that the surface is clean.
2. As before, place some paper towel or absorbent material inside the rails. Use masking tape to seal the rails. Cut along the outline of the opening as closely as possible and remove any excess tape. Ensure a secure seal.
3. Use masking tape to delimit the outline of the board. Apply the tape around the middle of the thickness of your board. This tape will act as a barrier to catch any excess epoxy resin during lamination.
4. Carefully cut a piece of glass fiber material, making sure the cutout area is larger than the board by at least 10 cm all around.
5. Place the glass fiber piece on the board, and you can secure it with small weights such as tape rolls to hold it in place.
6. Prepare the epoxy resin as before (approximately 60 g should be enough), following the instructions provided with your resin.
7. Start applying the resin from the center of the board towards the sides using a squeegee, ensuring even and thorough coverage of the glass fiber.
8. If needed, you can secure the edges of the lamination with masking tape.
9. Allow the resin to dry for about 4 to 8 hours, depending on the curing time specified for your particular resin.
10. Remove the masking tape band carefully, taking care not to disturb the freshly applied resin.
11. Cut a slit for the opening of the rails and then carefully cut the outline of each opening. Remove any excess glass. It's okay if your cuts aren't perfect as they can be refined later.
12. Let the board dry for a minimum of 24 hours to ensure complete curing of the epoxy resin.

Step 13: Light Sanding of the Board

Using an electric sander with a grit size of 120, carefully sand the surface of your board. Pay special attention to the rails and other areas that may be difficult to reach with the sander. It is recommended to do this step by hand to ensure better control and avoid over-sanding.

After sanding, take the time to remove any sanding dust or debris from the board.

This step is essential to achieve a smooth and clean surface, preparing the board for the next stages of the project.

Step 14: Second Laminations

To further enhance the strength, stiffness, and correct any imperfections on your board, a second lamination is essential. Follow the steps from Step 10 again!

Step 15: Second Light Sanding of the Board

Using an electric sander with a grit size of 120 and 240, carefully sand the surface of your board. Pay special attention to the rails and other areas that may be difficult to reach with the sander. It is recommended to do this step by hand to ensure better control and avoid over-sanding.

Take your time during this step to achieve a smooth and even surface. It is important to remove any imperfections or roughness that may be present from previous laminations or sanding.

After sanding, remove any sanding dust from the board.

This second light sanding is crucial in preparing the board for the subsequent steps. It helps to create a smooth and clean surface, ensuring optimal results in the final stages.

Step 16: Glassing the Top

Follow these steps:

1. Ensure that the surface of the board is clean.
2. Place paper towels or absorbent material inside the rails to protect them from resin.
3. Use masking tape to delimit the outline of the board, applying the tape around the middle of the thickness of the board. This tape will serve as a barrier to catch any excess epoxy resin during the glassing process.
4. Prepare the epoxy resin as instructed, ensuring you have enough resin for the glassing process. Approximately 40 grams should be sufficient, refer to the instructions provided with your specific resin.
5. Start applying the epoxy resin from the center of the board towards the sides using a silicone brushes or similar tool. Ensure that the resin is spread evenly and covers the entire top surface of the board.
6. Allow the resin to dry from 4 to 8 hours.
7. Carefully remove the masking tape band, taking care not to disturb the freshly applied resin.
8. Let the board dry for a minimum of 24 hours to ensure complete curing of the epoxy resin. This ensures that the resin fully hardens and provides a durable finish to the board.

Step 17: Ultra Light Sanding of Rails

Using sandpaper with a grit size of 320, apply a light sanding by hand to the rails of your board. This step is important to smoothen any rough edges or imperfections that may have resulted from the previous glassing process.

After sanding, carefully remove any sanding dust or debris from the rails before proceeding to the next step.

Step 18: Glassing the Bottom

Follow these steps:

1. Ensure that the surface of the board is clean.
2. Place paper towels or absorbent material inside the rails to protect them from resin.
3. Use masking tape to delimit the outline of the board, applying the tape around the middle of the thickness of the board. This tape will serve as a barrier to catch any excess epoxy resin during the glassing process.
4. Prepare the epoxy resin as instructed, ensuring you have enough resin for the glassing process. Approximately 40 grams should be sufficient, refer to the instructions provided with your specific resin.
5. Start applying the epoxy resin from the center of the board towards the sides using a silicone brushes or similar tool. Ensure that the resin is spread evenly and covers the entire bottom surface of the board.
6. Allow the resin to dry from 4 to 8 hours.
7. Carefully remove the masking tape band, taking care not to disturb the freshly applied resin.
8. Let the board dry for a minimum of 24 hours to ensure complete curing of the epoxy resin. This ensures that the resin fully hardens and provides a durable finish to the board.

Step 19: (OPTIONAL) Final Sanding

To achieve a smooth and refined finish on your board, follow these steps:

1. Use sandpaper with a grit size of 320 or higher for the final sanding. This fine-grit sandpaper will help to smoothen any rough edges or imperfections that may have resulted from the previous glassing process.
2. Optionally, you can moisten the sandpaper with water to create a wet sanding effect.
3. Gently sand the entire surface of the board, including the rails, using light pressure.
4. Pay close attention to any areas that may require extra smoothing or refinement, such as rough spots or uneven surfaces.
5. Periodically check the board's surface to ensure that it is becoming smoother and that any imperfections are being addressed.
6. After sanding, thoroughly remove any sanding dust or debris from the board.
7. Inspect the board for any remaining imperfections or rough areas. If necessary, you can perform additional sanding using finer grit sandpaper to achieve a desired smoothness.

Step 20: Cutting and Applying Foam Pad on the Board

1. Use 3D printed template shapes, designed for the foam pad.
2. Place the 3D printed template shapes on the foam sheet and align them according to your desired placement and coverage.
3. Use a pencil to trace the outline of the template shapes onto the foam sheet.
4. Use cutting tool to cut along the traced outlines.
5. Position the foam pad pieces on the board, double-check positionning and finally stick them!

Step 21: Enjoy the Result

Well done, you've made it!

This project can help you expand your knowledge in the areas of 3D printing and composite materials.

I hope this tutorial has been helpful and inspiring. Don't hesitate to share your own boards with us.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask, and I will try to answer them.

Happy making!