Introduction: 3D Printed Two Peg Spool Knitting - the Beginning

About: I am a former active duty Marine. I am married and have two cats. I love learning new things, tools, and sharing/ trading skills and ideas with others. For 2018 I plan to release an instructable every month. M…

My wife has recently taken up knitting and crocheting, and after watching her make socks I became interested in the process. So off to the computers to do my research to see what others before me have done. In my digging I ended up finding information on spool knitting and lucets. Inspired and armed with knowledge I set of to make my own "3D Printed Two Peg Spool Knitting" device and produce this stepping stone instructable. I well be using this 2 peg in upcoming instructables and with also be making other looms and sharing them. The uses are endless from here ranging for condensing the paracord for outdoor use later or making a lanyard for a tool like a hatchet. It also makes a great summer activity for kids teaching the basics to loom "knitting" or "crocheting".



FROM THE WIKI: for you knowledge hounds a snip from "the wiki"

Spool knitting, corking, French knitting or tomboy knitting is a form of knitting that uses a spool and a number of nails to produce a narrow tube of fabric, similar to i-cord. Spool knitting is a traditional way to teach children the basic principles of knitting.
Spool knitters typically have four or five pegs (or brass nails), although can also range from sixteen to more than one hundred. [1] Many things can be made from the resulting tube e.g. it can be wound in a spiral to produce a mat or rug, or if a larger spool with more nails in is used, a sock or a hat could be made. Spool knitting has also been used historically to make horse reins. [2]

Step 1: Materials

Your Build of materials May differ:

3D Modeling software- I use trimble's sketchup 2013

3D Printer or 3D printing service- I use my Zortrax m200 v2

Printing materials- I use white z-abs a filament from Zortrax for zortrax printers

550 Paracord- whatever color or type you want i just use simple black paracord

The STL file I created- please don't try to sale my file


lighter or heat source

pick to lift the bottom strand over the top




Step 2: The Design Process

When designing this prototype I just winged it. However, what I did do was create tolerances for the working area between the pegs, the pegs , and the length and shape of the tail for clamping. My first tolerance to deal with was the working area, I needed it to be small enough that I can conserve paracord, but I also need it to be large enough that I can work with it. Using my Square ruler I judge using my eyes to guesstimate a size and narrowed it down to 30 mm to 40 mm; going with my gut I went to with 30 mm and for me the worked well. The next tolerance where the pegs I had to make them thick enough they will not break, but will also fit on top of the form. Printing small cylinders of different diameters starting with 5 mm going to 10 mm, and I went with 8 mm because it was strong enough and small enough. The last tolerance "length and shape of the tail for clamping"; this was all random, but I know it needed to be long enough and a unique for my preference. I went "wide" and round taking inspiration from a beaver tail.

Other notes in shorthand:

  • Put a 1 mm straight bevel around the pegs in order to strengthen the pegs
  • Put a grove on the outside of the pegs to allow picks and hooks to get between paracord and the peg
  • Went with a half circle rather then a full circle in order to cut down on how much is printed and get rid of the dead space of a full circle
  • In the pictures it shows a model with the pegs separately this was a prototype I printed to test the final pegs strength and height, originally the pegs where 10 mm long ( to short) and I went with 20 mm
  • I used a "solid infill" which according to "zortrax forums" is about 39 % infill

Step 3: The Printing

less of a step more of a look look its printing and its not warping awesome yayayayayayaayayay


Step 4: Starting the "knitting"

Beginning the weave place one end of the paracord between the pegs with about 3" in. (75 mm) to 2" in, (50 mm) of cord below the base of the "loom". Wrap the paracord around the left peg as in picture #3 then around peg #2 in a figure eight manner then repeat then lift the bottom loop over and pull the excess tight from the bottom.

Step 5: Finishing the "Knitting"

After making the "knitting Stitch" as long as you want it's time to Finnish. Start by sliding the last loops off of the pegs and use the picture instructions or the video provided in the intro to knot off and Finnish. Then add any Fasteners to the end to make a lanyard, bracelet, or a necklace.

Step 6: The Finished- I Made a Bracelet :D

so we are at the end with a small example of the work that can be done on this simple tool. I used the example as a bracelet. However, this could be used for lanyards, necklaces, and many "other things" *hint hint* *wink wink*

So please leave a comment, critique, or feedback on how I can make these better and easier to understand.

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