Introduction: 3D Printer Enclosure
The need for a printer enclosure arose, due to moving it into my sawdusty workshop. I did not make this enclosure for keeping in heat, simply for keeping dust away from the delicate printer. (I'm sure this will keep significant heat in though, anything is better than being open.)
1 - 4'x4' 3/16 sheet of plywood
2 - 1x3x8 boards
2 - Pair of non mortise hinges
2 - Cabinet knobs
4 - 18"x 24" Poster frames
Jig saw (or scroll saw)
18 ga Brad nailer (1 1/4" & 1/2" brads)
Square (rafter or combo)
Step 1: Cut List
4 - 21"
2 - 19 3/8"
2 - 18 1/2"
1 - 20"
6 - 16" x 9 5/8"
1 - 21" x 22 3/8"
Step 2: Setup the Table Saw
Set the fence 3/8" from the blade center, and raise the blade 1/4" from the table. This is how we will put a groove in the boards for the acrylic sheets to slide into.
Step 3: Cutting Grooves
Please use proper table saw etiquette and PPE. To do this step, the blade guard needs to be removed from your saw. Please use caution, I don't want to be at blame for missing fingers.
Now, we will CAREFULLY run the (2), 18-1/2" boards through the saw. We want to do this on both 3/4" ends of the board, we will be ripping this in half later.
Follow through with the 20" board. Also doing both 3/4" sides.
Next is (1) of the 19-3/8" boards. We only need to groove one side of it.
Lastly, (3) of the 21" boards, again only need to groove one side of these.
Step 4: Ripping Boards
First thing first. Let's put that blade guard back on the saw. Now, we can set the fence at 1 1/4" from the center of the blade. This will allow us to take the 2 1/2" boards, and get (2) 1 1/4" boards.
Now we can run both 18 1/2" pieces through. Followed by the 20" piece.
Step 5: More Grooves
(2) of the now (4), 18-1/2" boards need to have another groove cut into them. I set the saw back up with the fence at 3/8" and ran (2) of the pieces through. These are for the 2 rear corners.
Step 6: "Glass"
So after pricing sheets of clear acrylic I decided to experiment. I got these poster frames for about $6 a piece. The dimensions I cut were,
(2) 7-1/8" x 14"
(2) 20-1/2" x 17-3/4"
(1) 20" x 16-1/2"
I used a straight edge and utility knife to score the sheets, and gently bent them over the edge of my workbench to break/cut them.
Step 7: The Doors
I'm sure doors for this can be made in a variety of ways, but from the paper thin acrylic and abundance of plywood, here is how I did it..
I used my square to draw a frame on (2) of the 16"x 9-5/8". I clamped one with the frame drawing to one without, drilled some start and stop holes, and went to town with the jigsaw. You can possibly do this with 4 of the sheets clamped together, but this was my process.
The 5th and 6th pieces will go through the same process, but we need to cut 1/4" more off the inside sides and bottom, and cut the top out. They will be sandwiched in the middle and allow for the "glass" to slide in between the outer 2. Hopefully the pictures explain better than I can.
Next, we can glue up and assemble the sandwiches.
Step 8: Assembly
Hopefully the pictures and drawing can help out here. First I assembled the bottom frame, (4) 21" pieces, trying to keep them square. Once they were tacked together (I used 1-1/4" brads), I set up the 4 corners. Put the front top board in. Inserted the acrylic panels, put the top pieces on, all while using a plethora of clamps. Tacked all the joints. Set the top sheet of plywood and nailed that down with 3/4" brads.
Step 9: Hinges & Knobs
Making our way to the home plate.. I attached the hinges to the doors first, keeping them equally spaced from bottom and top (I didn't measure..) held them up to the frame, and screwed them to it "by hand", you don't want to strip the wood with those tiny screws and a screwgun.... And for the knobs I measured an inch up and an inch in on the inside bottom corners of the doors. I kinda wish I would've put them in the middle of the doors, but live and learn.
Well that's it, thanks for reading.
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