Introduction: 5 Ways to Remove a Stripped Screw
We've all been there; clumsily fumbling with a screwdriver trying to remove a screw only to notice that it's been stripped, either by your hands in haste or left behind by a previously frustrated repairer. I guess the screw is there for good, right? Nope!
Removing a stripped screw takes a little ingenuity, but is fairly straightforward. We'll look at a 5 surefire methods to remove a stripped screw, starting from least destructive and moving through to more destructive methods. The method you chose will depend on your circumstances and how important it is to remove that stubborn stripped screw.
We're not going to let that screw ruin your day. Screw you!
Step 1: Rubber Band
Sometimes all that's needed to get a stubborn screw out is a little extra grip. The rubbery surface of an elastic band can help keep the screwdriver end in the stripped screw head and prevent cam out.

Any rubber band will work, but wide bands work best as they provide the most contact area between the screw head and the driver bit.

Place the elastic band over the driver bit and pull tight enough that there's no slack, then gently insert the driver bit into the stripped screw head and turn the screw loose.

If the screw isn't totally stripped the rubber band will help fill in the areas where the screw has been stripped and provide friction where it's needed, allowing the screw to be removed.
Step 2: Grab With Drill
If the screw is not completely sunk into your material there's a good chance you can grab it with an electric drill and easily back it out.
Open the chuck of the drill and place over the head of the screw, then hand tighten to secure the jaws of the chuck over the screw. Set the drill to reverse and gently back the screw out of the material.

This works on just about any type of threaded screw or bolt stuck provided there is a portion of the head the chuck can grab onto.
Step 3: Screw Extractor
If there is a particularly stubborn screw that just won't come out then it's time to get a little destructive.
Screw extractors are a good choice as they are counter-threaded to how screws are threaded - screws have a right-hand twist and screw extractors have a left-hand twist.

Screw extractors come in a few different sizes, and you'll need to select the right size to fit into the screw head of your stripped screw. Load the extractor into the check of your drill and tighten the chuck to hold the extractor securely.

Set the drill into reverse. Since the extractor is reverse-threaded this means that with the drill in reverse the extractor bit will drill into the stripped screw and bite into the screw head, continue drilling in reverse and the extractor will start turning the screw in reverse and back it out of the material.
Step 4: Cut a Notch
Slightly more destructive than a screw extractor is to cut a notch into the stripped screw head with a rotary tool. Depending on how deep the screw is in the material the notch cut might damage the surrounding surface.

Using a rotary tool with a cutting wheel cut a single slot into the head of the stripped screw. This will make a channel for a flathead screwdriver to seat and allow you to back the screw out.
Step 5: Wood Plug Cutter
If the stripped screw is really deep inside your material and no other options seem to work then it's time to get really destructive. Wood plug cutters can be used to remove material from around the deep set screw and allow you access to an otherwise unreachable screw.
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Place the plug cutter in an electric drill and position above the screw. Engage the plug cutter with the wood and remove material from above and around the stripped screw until the plug cutter has reached the screw head depth.

Remove the plug cutter and any debris it created and see if you can get access to the screw head for removal.

Step 6: Leave It?
Can you live with just leaving it? Sometimes screws are just too buried or difficult to get, and not worth the hassle.
Though not ideal, there may be no other way to deal with a stripped screw and you might be able to work around it. If you're resigned to leaving the screw in situ then maybe you could try and hide the screw with a patch of similar wood.
Step 7: Share Your Tips!
Necessity is the mother of invention, and I'm sure there are plenty more clever ways to remove a screw that people have come up with. Why not share your unique way to remove a screw in the comments below?
Happy making :)
365 Comments
Question 2 months ago
I have a flat head screw that’s got the head stripped n stuck in wood but I only have a flat head screw driver how would I go bout it?
It’s inside a cabinet drawer holding on the handle? Any tips n or tricks or ideas?
Question 10 months ago
Hello everyone! I have a screw on my doorknob that is stripped. I’ve tried everything. I even glued a screwdriver to the screw. Does anyone know what I can do?
Question 10 months ago on Step 7
Need help! I have to replace the cartridge in the faucet tao but the screw is stripped. I tried using the rubber band trick but failed. Rest of the tricks I’m not sure will work as it’s bit of tough spot. Can you please suggest something. Please see the pic
Answer 10 months ago
Have you tried using a flathead screwdriver? The flat slot looks fine and should still work, even though the Phillips secton is all mashed up.
Reply 10 months ago
Yes I have a couple of flatheads but they also didn’t work.
Question 2 years ago
I have a few questions.
Bakground;
One, i have a PS1 i am customizing (all black, i think i have to halt for the seasons) and i have to take apart the controller again because of a hiccup.
In the proccess, a screw got stuck in a tiny hole of plastic from the 90's(which stinks and i asked my two guardians to help me out before i looked here).
The Question;
Which one do yall think might help?
(Also the head itself still grips its just super stubborn, im thinking abt using the rubber band one)
Question 3 years ago
I was replacing bathtub drain. The drain is a screw in. It screwed in crooked and is stuck half way in the drain. I have tried oil. I have tried pliers. I have tried rubber gloves. I cannot get the piece unscrewed. Any ideas before I have to call a plumber...thank you.
Reply 3 years ago
Step 4: cutting a notch :)
3 years ago
I've had most success cutting a notch then removing with a flathead, however space and surface does not always make it possible. I also find that a few taps with a hammer can loosen any debris and rust and help get things going, as can WD40.
Ideally, don't let the screw head get torn up in the first place, by using the right bit, firm grip, and turning the slip settings on your combi drill down low you shouldn't damage the head too much
4 years ago
Help! I have a 2009 Toyota Matrix. I broke off part of a bolt in the lower part of a very tight area in the thermostat housing. Anyone have some realistic doable ideas of how I can remove so I can replace bolt and put in new thermostat? Have tried penetrate fluid hasn’t worked then tried heat still doesn’t work. No realistic video on line. I’m talk about a very tight space. Thank you
Tip 5 years ago
...and another thing; though i've only seen them on bronze wood screws in wood boats, there's a cross-headed screw called a "frearson" or "Reed & Prince" which looks VERY much like a phillips screw. The tip angle is different, though, and the four 'lands' of the tip don't taper like Phillips do.
There are 3 sizes of frearson drivers, but they all can be used in any size frearson screw (or so they say...) Don't waste time looking for them in hardware stores; I just went through that.
Tip 5 years ago on Step 7
Centerpunch the screw head, then drill the head off with a drill bit the diameter of the screw shank.
Pull, pry, wiggle, the board free, then put visegrips on the shank protruding from the bottom piece and unscrew it
Also, there's s company I can't remember offhand (see "CaitD1below; she says Woodcraft sells them) that makes what is basically very small holesaws out of hardened steel tooling, which I found online. They work, but they're very brittle and you need to be careful how hard you tighten your chuck.
For a single use you can ma,ke one from steel tubing and a file..
5 years ago on Step 7
The "Cut a Notch" idea is the best I've seen. Thank You!
Tip 5 years ago
I was unable to find the tapered plug cutters mentioned above, but found a screw extractor at Woodcraft. It is a narrow tube with teeth on either end and fits into the drill. Trick is to be careful and read the directions completely. It suggests drilling a pilot hole in a scrap and clamping it securely to your piece over the broken screw hole...Mine was broken down inside the wood and only the shank was left. I tried the extractor on a scrap and it skated all over the piece. I then drilled a hole corresponding to the diameter of the extractor, clamped it in place and slowly ran the drill in reverse as per directions. Worked like a champ. We removed about 5 broken screws from an antique we were refinishing. We will fill the holes with a dowel and replace the broken screws with new ones. Can be found on Amazon also.
6 years ago
Not all cross-headead screws are the same - For many years I ranted about how Japanese motorcycles used screwheads that must be made of "cheese" - turns out they were made of exactly the same stuff used in the west, only they were cut to a slightly different specification!
If you are getting nowhere with your screwdriver, and on closer inspection you see a "dimple" on the screwhead, you need a "JIS" screwdriver - even a half ruined one becomes remarkably easy to extract with the correct tools!
Reply 5 years ago
My first motorcycle was a Honda, and not only were the screw heads slightly different, I found that they use an impact driver to tighten them. Fortunately, the metal was soft enough to easily drill the heads off untiI got the right tools for the job.
Reply 5 years ago
Ah the impact driver :) I remember mine well, and as a nearly last resort it still gets looked out
my order of preference goes;
any screwdriver
good screwdriver
whack it, and screwdriver
penetrating oil
gentle heat (boliling water)
impact driver
stronger heat
cut a slot
drill the head off
Reply 6 years ago
Do you agree that JIS screwdrivers are for use with Japanese screws, not others? I only mention this because before I just now looked up JIS screwdrivers,I thought you were saying that they were always the better screw driver, and I was going to buy a set.
Reply 5 years ago
They're meant just for JIS screws, and are significantly better when dealing with Japanese fixings, I have to admit to having used them occasionally on other cross-head types and certainly found them "no worse than many"
They're probably a bit expensive to have as a "just in case" but if you regularly work on Japanese kit I'd say they justified themselves almost immediately!
Reply 6 years ago
Phillips and Pozidriv screw heads are designed to "Cam out" the screwdriver tip when they get tight enough (fine if you stop the instant it jumps out, bad news if you have a powered screwdriver and continue to press down hard)
JIS doesn't, it has a "squarer" profilewhich is less inclined to slip
- now it's undelniable that JIS screwdrivers are very much better for JIS screw heads (than ordinaryt screwdrivers), but I *have* used them on non-JIS stripped crosshead screws with some sucsess, although I can't guarantee it would work in each and every occasion.
It's probably a case of "try if you happen to have a JIS screwdriver handy, probably not worth buying one specially"