7 Easy Tips to Help You in the WoodShop - Bonus Material: Woodworking Myths Busted!

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Introduction: 7 Easy Tips to Help You in the WoodShop - Bonus Material: Woodworking Myths Busted!

About: Youtube Channel: Penalty Box Woodshop - Instagram: @penaltyboxwoodshop - Website: www.penaltyboxwoodshop.com - Step by step woodworking and DIY projects. My goal is to give back to a community that has taught …

These 7 easy woodworking tips will make your time in the woodshop more enjoyable and efficient. Stick around until the end of the video when I discuss woodworking Myths and how they just are not true! These are tips that I have learned over my last 8 years of woodworking either by mistakes that I have made or by other woodworkers sharing their knowledge. Hope you enjoy!

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You can click here to check out my website for more free plans and projects!

Supplies

Step 1: Tip #1 - Straight Edge Guide

Not many beginner woodworkers can afford a table saw large enough to safely cut full sheets of plywood. Heck I still cant, which is why I have a track saw, but before that I just used my old circular saw and made a super simple straight edge from scrap wood. This guide allows you to make safe, straight cuts, without having to measure for the offset of your mark to the straight edge.

You can use just about any type of 1/4" material for the bed, the length can be up to you (mine is 4') but your going to want to start with a width of around 11" to 12".

For the guide piece I used 3/4" plywood cut to the same length as the base. Attach this piece to the base with brad nails, ensuring its square to the edge of the 1/4" base and offset from one long edge by an inch and half or so. The overhang will be used to clamp the guide to the plywood your cutting. Use your saw to cut the overhang off the other side leaving it the same width as your saw from the edge of the plate to the blade. Make sure that the plate rides snug against the guide during the entire cut.

Now that the guide is custom to your saw you can align the guide directly to your measured cut marks on the plywood, clamp it in place, and make an accurate cut using the guide.

Step 2: Tip #2 - Dividing Equal Parts

If your like me you struggle with math and measuring. This quick measuring tip allows you to quickly and easily divide a board into equal parts, wether its in half by five, this tip takes all the guess work out of it. This is especially handy when you have a board like the one pictured thats at an odd width like 8 7/16".

Keeping the inside edge of your tape against the edge of the board adjust your tape so that the opposite edge is lined up with a number thats easy for you to do the math, for the example in the video I used 10". Now, you can just make a mark at the half way point of 5" and you have the exact midpoint of this board. This works with any number for example if you adjust you tape to 16" then 8" will still be the exact midpoint of this board.

You can use this exact same method to to divid the board into any different number of equal parts. For example, if you hold the tape at 10" as explained above then you make a mark at 2", 4", 6", and 8" for five equal parts.

Step 3: Tip #3 - the Speed Square

The speed square a very under-appreciated tool in the woodshop. They have a lot of features that are handy on just about any project.

With the lip of the square flush against the edge of the board the first noticeable features is that you can easily mark a 90 and 45 degree angle on the board. It also has a 7" ruler down one side for measurement marking.

Some of the less known features are the scribe notches from 1" to 2 3/4" every 1/4" used to mark a like adjacent to the edge. On the 45 degree side of the square you will notice numbers that appear to be measurements. If you keep the corner edge of the square flush to the board and rotate the square to align with one of the numbers these numbers tell you the degree of the angel that you are making. If you want a 20 degree angel marked just rotate until the 20 aligned with the edge then make a mark along the opposite edge.

Step 4: Tip #4 - Find the Center of Any Circle

Finding the center of any sized circle can be easy and not even involve a mathematical equation if you use this tip. (Note: This one is kind of hard to explain so be sure to reference the photos attached and the video at the top of this blog.)

Take a carpenter square and a triangle and place them together as shown in the photograph. Make sure that the corner of the 90 degree angle on the square intersects the triangles edge. Use a spring clamp to hold them in place.

Place whatever size circle so that it is resting on both edges of the square and then make a mark along the edge of the triangle. Turn the circle 180 degrees (this does not have to be exact) and mark another line. The intersection of these lines will be the center of your circle. Again, this will work for any size circle!

Step 5: Tip #5 - CA Glue and Painters Tape

Double sided tape is handy for many applications in the woodshop but if your like me you never have any around. Instead of double sided tape use painters tape and CA glue. Matter of fact this is the only method I use now! This works great for temporarily securing boards to sleds or templates.

Place tape on both surfaces, apply CA glue to one side, then place the boards together. Viola, in ten seconds they are secured and ready to use! Then you can simple pull them apart and remove the tape.

Step 6: Tip #6 - a Better Glue Bottle

If you have been woodworking for any length of time then you know that these glue bottles that come with the glue are crap. The tops stop working the minute some glue dries in them and they never really seem to seal correctly again. This simple tip is to replace them with cheap condiment squeeze bottles from amazon. They work amazingly well and longer than the ones that come with the glue. You can get a six pack of them for like $10 and i use them for all other kinds of things like bbq sauce and cooking oil.

Step 7: Tip #7 - Determining Board Feet

My last tip is one that comes from a video that I watched long time ago by the Woodwhisperer (linked above). In this video he gives an excellent example of how to reference board feet when shopping for hardwoods. Hardwood dealers sell their boards by the board foot and not by the linear foot like at big box stores that sell construction pine.

So, a board foot is a board that is 12" L x 12" W x 1" T which equals 144 cubic inches or 1 board foot. So when shopping for hardwoods at a hardwood dealer you can determine board feet of a board with the following equation: (Length x Width x Thickness) /144 = board feet. This calculation should be done all in inches.

If you forget your tape measure and calculator and dont have this equation memorized then a good rule of thumb is that a board that is 8' (96") L x 6" W x 1" T = 4 board feet. This should give you a good reference point when pricing picking ou boards.

Step 8: Bonus: Myths of Woodworking

Towards the end of the video linked to this blog I discuss four claims of woodworking that are just plain wrong. They are subjects that I hear often and wanted to address them based on my years of experience in this craft. Please click the video to check these out as I didn't believe they fit well in blog style postings.

Thanks for reading!

For more details you can watch the video here:

If you want to see more woodworking and DIY videos then please click here and subscribe to my channel

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    24 Comments

    0
    Ag800Hans
    Ag800Hans

    10 months ago

    Great stuff, i enjoy implementing the first 3 in my shop, which can come up relatively often. One thing that i would add to tip #1, is that most saws have about 1 3/8”-1 1/2” of the shoe, from the edge of the shoe to the blade, on the narrow side of the saw shoe (or foot). For whatever reason, sometimes it doesnt work out well to use the saw with the wide side of the shoe being ran against the fence, so one needs to use that narrow side. Make sure that it’s AT LEAST 1 5/8” of platform on the other side of the fence, so that way you can use both sides of the fence to run your saw up against. It doesnt need to ONLY be used for a place to clamp the guide down with. That’s another thing about those guides – you can also use some adhesive backed sandpaper or grip tape (used for stairs, skateboards, etc) on the bottom of the carriage board, and that way sometimes you won’t even need to use a clamp. It stops the guide from sliding around. Just make sure that you can afford to have that workpiece be scratched up from the sandpaper, like plywood that doesnt need to be pretty. And yet another thing about these straight edge guides for circular saw‘s, you want to make sure that the fence is AT MOST 3/4” thick, so you give as much of a chance for the motor of your circular saw to clear it, so you get the most depth of cut when using the guide. I see somebody else addressed the kerf issue with that other tip, when measuring equal sized parts, so that’s about it for me. Thanks for sharing these tips. Aloha!

    0
    ironarmadillo
    ironarmadillo

    12 months ago

    A nice informative video that stays focused on the subject matter. I get a bit tired of videos that get overly chatty and have aside comments and stories that really don't pertain to the subject matter well.

    I do have one comment pertaining to both Tip #2 - Dividing Equal Parts and Tip #7 - Determining Board Feet. You might mention that if you are dividing a board to cut apart with a saw, you need to factor in the width of the saw blade kerf. Example: if you bought a board exactly 8" wide and want to cut 4 equal width boards from it with a 1/8" thick saw blade, the best you can do is 1 7/8" for each board. If you need these cut boards 2" wide then you would get 2" wide for 3 of the 4 resulting boards, the 4th board from the cut will be 1 5/8" wide (8"/4=2", but the saw blade will remove an additional 1/8"/cut leaving the last board 1 5/8" wide). So when selecting a rough cut board of varying width and length, be sure to factor in the expected waste from the woodworking process. In this case, you would need to purchase a board at least 8 3/8" wide to get 4 2" wide boards (preferably a bit wider if you have to account for imperfect outer edges that would need to be trimmed off first).

    0
    Bugsley
    Bugsley

    Reply 12 months ago

    Quote "...and Tip #7 - Determining Board Feet." My calculator is also broken, it reads 3.00

    0
    penaltyboxwoodshop
    penaltyboxwoodshop

    Reply 11 months ago

    I edited the instructable to clarify that this equation should be done all in inches.

    0
    penaltyboxwoodshop
    penaltyboxwoodshop

    Reply 12 months ago

    thank you such a kind and insightful comment. Youre exactly right and blade width is something that needs to be accounted for in any woodworking project.

    0
    briancavanaugh
    briancavanaugh

    12 months ago

    A lot of very useful tips in a nice short video. Much appreciated!

    0
    Kiggen Grimmace
    Kiggen Grimmace

    12 months ago on Step 5

    Just a helpful hint... "Whalla" is correctly spelled "Voilà." (It is French, after all.)

    0
    penaltyboxwoodshop
    penaltyboxwoodshop

    Reply 12 months ago

    Hahahah yes it is. Doh!

    0
    Chaoslord66
    Chaoslord66

    12 months ago on Step 8

    Excellent video! Thank you! I'm just getting started and in the baby steps of putting together a woodshop/forge. The tricks you discussed not only made sense, but were COMMON sense and *blush* I hadn't even considered it.

    Thanks again.

    0
    penaltyboxwoodshop
    penaltyboxwoodshop

    Reply 12 months ago

    Haha well good luck in your new endeavor! Thanks for the kind words

    0
    carl5blum
    carl5blum

    12 months ago

    Hello: One tip I might offer: Go Metric! The last year I've been doing my woodworking in metric and the difference has been amazing. No switching around fractions or decimal inches, just mm and cm. It is so much easier and I didn't think it would be so simple to change. Carl.

    0
    Microbe
    Microbe

    Reply 12 months ago

    Did you know that the entire world uses metric except the USA, Nigeria and Bhutan?

    Ironically, Americans already use metric money without realising ;o)

    0
    penaltyboxwoodshop
    penaltyboxwoodshop

    Reply 12 months ago

    Yea I really should just start using metric in the shop

    0
    penaltyboxwoodshop
    penaltyboxwoodshop

    Reply 12 months ago

    I’ve heard that from a few friends and I don’t hate the idea at all!

    0
    christhomaskinnell
    christhomaskinnell

    12 months ago

    Amazing just starting woodworking to help with depression bud 👍

    0
    penaltyboxwoodshop
    penaltyboxwoodshop

    Reply 12 months ago

    It will help for sure brother!

    0
    oragamiunicorn
    oragamiunicorn

    Question 1 year ago on Step 3

    when you use the speed square to find an angle, surely you've used the wrong side to mark on? you should measure the angle on one edge (the 45) and mark on the other (90), on the basis that the angle is X degrees away from the 90 degree startpoint, as proof, if you sit the lip of the square flush to the edge, the angle guide will tell you zero degrees, not 45

    0
    penaltyboxwoodshop
    penaltyboxwoodshop

    Answer 1 year ago

    Yes I did! I didn’t realize it until you pointed it out. I was trying to work upside down for the camera and didn’t catch myself as I was quickly moving through that part. I’ll get it edited ASAP! Thank you for pointing it out!

    0
    oragamiunicorn
    oragamiunicorn

    Reply 1 year ago

    good, I was starting to doubt myself as I wrote the comment, as you clearly know what you are talking about. I must admit if I haven't used a speed square for a little while it takes me a couple of seconds to get the angles right. A good set of tips, thankyou.