This is a fairly simple project, but it is time consuming and well worth the end product!!!

Step 1: Bending LEDs..

Make a jig, with two small nails jutting out @2mm from the hole which fits the LED nicely, but not too tight... I've found that 180 degrees from each other works the best for me.. Whatever you decide, just have to make all 512 of the LEDs EXACTLY the same to make a nice, neat matrix!!!!

Step 2: Cut the Excess Off...

I've found the best Flush diagonal cutters have been from "Beadalon".... I've tried MANY...

Step 3: Bend the CATHODE Loop Up...

It is advantageous to get used to having the anode on the same side when bending... It is frustrating when anode and cathode are reversed on a LED and it doesn't work after soldering all together... The second picture is of all 512, plus a few more...

Step 4: Drill a Jig and Assemble the Rows...

Measure the distance between anode holes on the board. This is the distance between centers of each LED. This is Important if you want a nice matrix. The holes on my board are 7/8 of an inch, or 23mm... The next important thing is to place a smaller nail above each hole at the 2mm mark you bent. each LED is then placed in its hole, with the unbent (horizontal) loop going over the nail. This will line up the vertical loops to receive the row wire. I use 20 gauge Tinned, straightened bus wire. To get this, buy a roll and look up how to straighten it. Or, you can buy it on eBay already cut and straightened. Only use 20 gauge. Smaller makes the matrix flimsy!!!!

Once the wire is through all eight holes, solder the LEDs to it and cut off the ends of the wire. This gives a neat appearance. You only have to make 64 Rows!!! Tedious, but worth it!!!

IMPORTANT - NO MORE THAN THREE SECONDS SHOULD BE USED TO SOLDER LEDs!!!

Step 5: Cut a Soldering Platform and Assemble Each Panel....

I used Formica coated shelving material from Home Depot... Because of the thickness of each soldered joint, a blade width will not work. One and a quarter will.... Make the cuts about 7/8 of an inch between centers... Place each soldered row in each cut. Line them up and the anode 20 gauge wire will go in the holes perfectly. Make sure they line up good before soldering. It will save a lot of time trying to straighten them to perfect 90's... I do the two center wire first, then work outwards. There are only 64 solder joints in this step...

Step 6: Test Your Panel...

The finished panel... You must test each LED before going on to the next panel. If one doesn't work, cut it out of the matrix, take one of your extra spares, Cut the loops open enough to place on the wire, and solder it in. You already have the soldering points from the LED you cut. Just heat up the soldered joint and leave the loop there. It will blend in with the new LED if enough solder is used. Remember the three second rule, so as not to burn up the LED!!!!

Oh- What I use for a tester: I use a two C cell battery holder from Radio Shack, with a 1k resistor soldered to the black wire. This has a small bend on the end to be able to hook it to the horizontal Cathode wire. I just do this for each level and run the tinned red wire from left to right over the anode wires. Use the resistor. The full 3 volts will work, but if using crappy LED's, one may burn out - It's happened to me many times!!!

Step 7: Solder Your Panels to Your Board...

This is fun... After getting all eight anode wires in their proper holes, I use small pieces of wood about 3/4 inch thick.. It doesn't matter the thickness, as long as all are the same!!! The second important thing is to get the panel perpendicular to the board. People say use a square. This is bull - I use a small paper pad on its side... Works just as well, and is small enough to place inside!!!! Solder the two outside wires to get the panel stable and then fill in the rest. Do this for both far outside panels... You'll see why...

Step 8: Add the Rest of the Panels...

I add them two at a time. to stabilize and space them properly...When you flip the board upside down on a perfectly flat surface, this is the orientation of the added panels. Gives you a PERFECTLY EVEN top!!! Its a little shaky... Use the paper pad underneath to stabilize it some!! The second picture is all the panels soldered in place. The third is looking down the panels after. Gorgeous!!!

Step 9: The Supports and Level Links...

This is a hard step, but very worthwhile.. First. you must solder a wire to the center top of the cube. This is the one where you have to adjust all panels to be even. Next, add the two top outside wires. This will give the cube serious stability. The second picture is of the next reinforcement: It is placed at level 4, on the opposite side of the P0 - P7 hookups. Each panel is soldered to each reinforcement. This one is a good practice before doing the level binding on the other side. Each panel level cathode must be hooked together. As you can see, anodes only go vertical and cathodes are only horizontal. Any slight difference in height of the mating wires can be weighted down before soldering. I use a small hemostat to do this. I'm a Dentist - I can't help it!!!!

Anyway, on the side of P0 - P7, as you can see in pic 3, all levels must be complete for the cube to function properly. The fourth pic shows the inside orientation of the stringers.

Step 10: Adding the Level Controlling Wires...

These are easy. You should be VERY comfortable soldering by this point!!! Connect insulated wires for each level to the stringers you soldered as such: P0 is the top level, all the way down to the bottom level: P7. Also - You must install four 12- 15mm standoffs before the finished product will stand properly... Brass or nylon - it doesn't matter.

At this point, your cube is now physically together...

Now onto the final and most crucial step: Installing the Arduino Uno, and uploading the program...

Step 11: Add Your Uno...

Then you are ready to upload the code, using Arduino Software...

Step 12: Program Your Uno...

Download the software from

https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software.

Download both .ino files and open one of them up with the software. I included two files, because the fireworks section will work without the text function enabled, and vise versa... I have not been able to figure this out!!! Any suggestions would be welcome to overcome this small problem!!! Enjoy your project. It's tedious, but well worth it in the end!!!