Introduction: 9-UV Plasma Cannon Thortanium Chamber

About: Retired and love to work in wood, metal, and electronics. Give me a day in the shop and I will build something. Remodeled my RV, built homes ground up, love working with my hands. Jack of all master of none, t…

I have to give credit to Aeon Junophor for sparking a great idea. After reading about his project Uranium-glass-marble-ring-oscillator I have to give this a try with a few twist. A few days after reading and thinking about the direction I wanted to go. I needed a way to make my own marble, first twist. I used a 2.25" OD glass Christmas tree ornament for a mold found at local store.

To make the marble (large) I used clear epoxy resin mixed fluorescent dye. Both items from Amazon, see supply list for supplier.

The second twist was to use Nine UV light cannons to illuminate the homemade marble.

My project was going to be bigger and with a different look. The first one was built as a trial, this was to see the effect of the homemade marble. With a trial success I moved on to working on the layout for my project.

The ring oscillator style was just the thing to keep the part counts low and simple. I had a good supply of parts from taking parts from salvaged junk, and purchased the other items as needed.

Layout started with a compass and paper working out size and final layout of parts.

The project does take some time and thought to build. You can vary the design as needed to fit your taste.

So let's take a look at some of the supply items you might need for the project if you chose to try it on your own.

Above all have fun and take your time.

Supplies

Sample of some of the supplies you might need for this project.

1. Good work table with light.

2. Hand tools, i.e. screwdriver, needle nose pliers, soldering iron with solder, Dremel with cut-off wheel.

3. Drill with bits, 6/32 tap used for the screws that hold down the MOSFET if used.

4. Might include woodworking tools for base plate, stain and or paint. Sandpaper assortment.

5. I used a laser cutter to cut main plastic ring, can be cut with a small hand saw.

6. Thin wall metal tube for the UV light guide and plastic tube extension (make sure the tube reacts to UV light).

7. Heat shrink tube, round wood dowel rod or equivalent to wind the cannon coils.

8. Misc. wire sizes. The colored copper wire used for coils was purchased in hobby store.

9. Can sub as need on many of the items in list. Example paper straw used in place of thin wall tube.

10. Misc. screws both wood and machine.

11. Clear epoxy with fluorescent dye (Amazon HXDZFX colorant and Epoxy Resin), glass mold (local hobby or super store).

12. Any material you choose to mount project (I used a piece of salvaged wood) Size chosen according to project size.

Step 1: Let Make the UV Marble

1. Find a way to support the glass mold in a upright position. I used a small plastic ring to rest the globe on. You could use clay or small cup. You want to make sure the globe is well supported for the 24 hrs needed for the epoxy to set-up.

2. Mix epoxy according to the instruction on the bottle. I used a small plastic mixing cup marked in ounces to calculate the epoxy needed. Filled mold with water and then measure the amount of water in mold and then added 1/2 ounce to make sure to have enough.

3. Mix the epoxy 4.5 ounces (the amount I needed). I mixed with a wooden stick, mixing per the instruction on bottle. After mixing I added 4 drops of fluorescent dye, mixed again.

4. Using a UV light source to see the effects on the epoxy, I decided to add two more drops. (My choice)

5. With the epoxy mixed it was now ready to pour in the mold, I made sure to mix with a lot of air bubbles in the mixture. I wanted a marble with a lot of diffraction points in it.

6. Set to the side and let it cure, this takes about 24 hrs if not longer. (Patience may be required)

Step 2: Working on the Cannon Coil Parts

1. I needed to make 9 coils from colored copper wire. The wire came from a craft department in a super store but a hobby shop should have the wire.

2. I needed to make the 9 coils 3 in each color.

3. Using a 1/4" wood dowel rod for the coil form. I just happen to have a 5/16" shaft collar to hold the wire on the dowel. The first coil was wrapped by hand at a length of 1". After wrapping the coil I placed a mark on dowel to mark my stop point. Leave a long tail on one end about 1 1/2".

4. All the other coils wrapped using a drill to help make coil, go slow. Drill is optional at this point.

5. With coils done I needed to remove the coating. Using a razor blade I scraped off the coating. (use caution blade is very sharp). After a few scrapings the blade will dull, just move to new area on blade.

6. With the copper exposed I went ahead and tinned the ends with solder.

Step 3: UV Guide Tube With Vinyl Extension

1. If using metal tube, cut with Dremel with metal cut-off wheel. Smooth end with fine sandpaper to remove sharp edges. I cut my tubes 1 1/4" in length.

2. Cut vinyl tube with scissors. Here I cut tube 3/4" to fit over the metal tube.

3. Need to stretch vinyl tube, I used my needle nose pliers. After stretching quickly insert on tube.

4. Measure all the tubes with vinyl, trim all to the shorter length.

6. All the tubes with vinyl should now be the same length.

Step 4: Assemble Tube, Coil and UV LED Testing Output

1. Now is the time to assemble the cannons.

2. Insert tube inside the coil starting at the end with long lead.

3. Take UV led and bend the + lead to a 90 degree angle. Test LED with battery to make sure it works.

4. Cut heat shrink to length and install on coil.

5. Now insert LED in the end and bend lead around the pre tinned lead sticking out. Solder and trim excess lead.

6. Pull heat shrink over connection and heat. This will protect the exposed end of coil and LED.

7. Take a battery and test each unit you built to make sure they still work.

8. Now put a little super glue on tube end to hold in place.

Step 5: Globe Mounting and Testing

1.Need to find a base to hold the Marble.

2. I used a aluminum base from a object found at resale shop. You can use you imagination here.

3.Used silicon glue to hold Marble to base, let dry for 24 hrs.

4. Took one of the cannons and tested the color and look of light path. After test different spots found that just below center was the best look.

Step 6: Building the Cannon Mounting Fixture

1. Using a compass to mark the rings on white cardboard for parts mount. Mount parts can be done with any method you feel like doing.

2. I took my marble and base and arranged the 9 cannons around. At this point was not exact, but gave me good view of the looks and size of fixture I would need.

3. Using a compass I marked the inner clearance circle for marble, giving 3/8" extra on all sides.

4. The next ring was for the long lead on cannon to marble spacing. Then marked the ring for the other end of coil with the LED lead now bent down to match the front lead.

5. Keep marking ring for other parts; resistors, capacitors, MOSFET and interconnect wires.

6. It took me several trials and errors to come up with the pattern that look good.

7. Next transferred the dot pattern to a bronze plastic sheet. Cut and drill holes as indicated.

8.I used colored tape to mark off the nine sections. This will help later when doing the wiring.

Step 7: Cannon Drive Circuit, Ring Oscillator

1. This circuit was the easiest one found, again thinks to Aeon project.

2. My drive circuit was used for all nine cannon drives.(See drawing for basic idea of parts lay out).

3. Here's a heads up on how I did the inter connection from each cannon driver.

4. The color coding will help keep track of each interconnection. Numbers will also work for project.

5. This is my interconnection layout. (Colors or with numbers).

Gate Drain

Brown (1) Yellow (5)

Yellow (5) Gray (9)

Gray (9) Orange (4)

Orange (4) Violet (8)

Violet (8) Red (3)

Red (3) Blue (7)

Blue (7) Black (2)

Black (2) Green (6)

Green (6) Brown (1)

Step 8: Assembly of Parts to Complete Project

1. At this point you have the Marble, and cannon drive ring fixture.

2. Mounting the parts is freestyle, adding other items if you want.

3. I used two rechargeable lithium batteries with charge USB charger controller on each.

4. Added a digital voltage meter (salvaged), Circuit board and wiring from old window AC unit (salvaged).

5. Mounting board from resale shop. Label made in shop from anodized aluminum and etched.

6. This project allows you to be very creative.

7. Have Fun most of all.


Best of luck!

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Step 10:

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