Introduction: A Walking Cane With a Twist
This is my first instructable so be nice to me!
So you want to make a cane with a twist to elevate your pimp game or elevate your grandma and keep her vertical, good for you, let's do this!
So you want to make a cane with a twist to elevate your pimp game or elevate your grandma and keep her vertical, good for you, let's do this!
Step 1: Choose Your Stock
You want to start with a board that's a over 1'' thick
Cut your stock to 37''
This is a beast of walnut 2'' thick 9 ½'' wide but you can take 2x 1'' thick boards and glue them together
Cut your stock to 37''
This is a beast of walnut 2'' thick 9 ½'' wide but you can take 2x 1'' thick boards and glue them together
Step 2: Cut It to Size
I don't have pictures for the next few steps but don't worry you can do this, I have faith in you!
Go to the bandsaw and rip it to 1 ¾'' wide
Go to the jointer and square up 1 face and 1 side and mark them
Plane the board to 1 ¼'' thick (put your face mark on the table)
Go back to the bandsaw and rip it to 1 ¼'' wide (put your side mark on the fence)
So now you should have a board that's 1 ¼'' squared by 37'' long
Go to the bandsaw and rip it to 1 ¾'' wide
Go to the jointer and square up 1 face and 1 side and mark them
Plane the board to 1 ¼'' thick (put your face mark on the table)
Go back to the bandsaw and rip it to 1 ¼'' wide (put your side mark on the fence)
So now you should have a board that's 1 ¼'' squared by 37'' long
Step 3: Find the Center
6: Find the center and mark it on both ends
Step 4: Mount It on the Lathe
Mount it on the lathe
Be safe and wear protective goggles because wood chips will start flying soon
You will need a thickness guage set to 1'', it will become your best friend
You will also need a 7/8'' roughing gouge and a 1/4'' strait guage
Do yourself a favor and get a jig to support the center of the cane on the lathe because at 37'' it will start to wiggle like a spaghetti. If you don't have one and still want to do this then you're a rebel and I like the cut of your jib, let's be friend and have a drink.
Start the lathe and act like you want to pet a tiger: be gentle, go slow, no sudden movement. Keep your gouge sharp, do one pass to make it round and sharpen it again before your 2nd pass. Check your thickness guage often, it's your best friend remember?
Be safe and wear protective goggles because wood chips will start flying soon
You will need a thickness guage set to 1'', it will become your best friend
You will also need a 7/8'' roughing gouge and a 1/4'' strait guage
Do yourself a favor and get a jig to support the center of the cane on the lathe because at 37'' it will start to wiggle like a spaghetti. If you don't have one and still want to do this then you're a rebel and I like the cut of your jib, let's be friend and have a drink.
Start the lathe and act like you want to pet a tiger: be gentle, go slow, no sudden movement. Keep your gouge sharp, do one pass to make it round and sharpen it again before your 2nd pass. Check your thickness guage often, it's your best friend remember?
Step 5: Tracing
You should now have a round cane with squared ends, use them for stability and trace a line all the way across the cane on the 4 sides
Step 6: Divisions
Divide those lines to mark your twists
Those were protoptypes I made, the one on the far right was divided every 3 inches and I tought it looked to barbershop like, next to it I divided it every 1'' and alltough it look better I think (don't judge me!) they're a little too close together for my taste.
I finally decided to go with 1 ¾'' divisions which you can see on the far left
Those were protoptypes I made, the one on the far right was divided every 3 inches and I tought it looked to barbershop like, next to it I divided it every 1'' and alltough it look better I think (don't judge me!) they're a little too close together for my taste.
I finally decided to go with 1 ¾'' divisions which you can see on the far left
Step 7: Mark the Twist
Use electrical tape to join the division and make a twist
When satisfied with the look, trace the twist with a pensil using the thickness of the tape to guide you.
When satisfied with the look, trace the twist with a pensil using the thickness of the tape to guide you.
Step 8: Cut the Ends
Go to the scroll saw and cut the squared ends
Step 9: Plunge Router
Take a plunge router (I used a hydrolic one), make a fixed base so it's elevated and secured, use a ¼'' spiral bit and set it so it makes a 1/8'' depth cut. It does'nt look like much but you're going to make 4 passes (1 on each side) so you'll want a little meat left in the center, you would'nt want it to break under the weight of your granny right?
Step 10: Make a Jig
Make a jig so the cane will fit snug but leave just enough room so you can push and twist it under the router
Center the jig and make one pass, GO SLOW and be precise because if you deviate from the line it will affect the thickness of the ridges. When you're a little over the halfway mark, stop and start from the other end, you should join the groove you just made. If it's not perfect, just say it's an artistic desicion and that's exactly how you wanted it to look. Who are they to judge your flair and taste?
Center the jig and make one pass, GO SLOW and be precise because if you deviate from the line it will affect the thickness of the ridges. When you're a little over the halfway mark, stop and start from the other end, you should join the groove you just made. If it's not perfect, just say it's an artistic desicion and that's exactly how you wanted it to look. Who are they to judge your flair and taste?
Step 11: Sanding
Next comes the fun part, sanding the groove PERFECTLY by hand! It will become the master groove on which the others will be based on. I used a random orbit sander pad 100 grit.
Step 12: Make the Other Grooves
On your jig, add a dowel centered with the router bit that is out just enough so the groove you made will fit in. You can use that as a track to make the 3 other passes. So if you didn't sand it like I told you, all the nicks and bumps will repeat on the other grooves which means more sanding for you!
Step 13: Sanding (again)
Sand the 3 grooves you just made, it should be easier because you did it like I said the last time, right? If you think you sanded enough, sand again, i'm not about to let you give your grandma a cane that is not perfect, not on my watch.
When all the grooves are sanded perfectly, sand some more: 120 then 150 then180 and finally 220 grit
You're done for now, let's move on to the handle.
When all the grooves are sanded perfectly, sand some more: 120 then 150 then180 and finally 220 grit
You're done for now, let's move on to the handle.
Step 14: Drawing the Design
Trace your ideas on a piece of paper until you find a design that you like you can make a test on a piece of scrap wood or mdf to test how it feels.
Step 15: Make a Tracing Jig
Transfer your design on a piece of 1/4'' masonite that will become your tracing jig
Step 16: Preparing the Stock
Prepare your stock by glueing or cutting a piece of wood to size (ideally 1 1/8'' thick so it's confortable when rounded)
I used Walnut and Tiger Maple that I found in the shop trash, can you believe that?
I used Walnut and Tiger Maple that I found in the shop trash, can you believe that?
Step 17: Cut the Shape
Cut the shape on the scroll saw
Step 18: Sanding (again...)
Sand the handle perfectly because we're going to the router next. I used a spindle sander
Step 19: Router
Make yourself a jig to hold your handle on both sides (length wise) so your hands don't come close to the router bit. Take the fence away leaving only the bit exposed.
Turn off your dust collector, it eate 2 previous handles!
Use a 1/4'' round bit and make at least 3 passes inside and outside and turn it over before each new pass.
Now everything should be round except where the jig was.
Back to sanding!
Turn off your dust collector, it eate 2 previous handles!
Use a 1/4'' round bit and make at least 3 passes inside and outside and turn it over before each new pass.
Now everything should be round except where the jig was.
Back to sanding!
Step 20: Sanding (yet Again)
Sand the unrounded parts to match the rest.
Sand the handle perfectly (you should've expected that...) 120, 150, 180, 220 grit.
Sand the handle perfectly (you should've expected that...) 120, 150, 180, 220 grit.
Step 21: Drill the Hole
At the drill press, using a 1/2'' inch fostner bit drill the handle about 1/2'' deep
Then with a 5/8'' fostner bit, drill about 1/8'' deep
I used a piece of wood to elevate the handle so it's parrallel
Then with a 5/8'' fostner bit, drill about 1/8'' deep
I used a piece of wood to elevate the handle so it's parrallel
Step 22: The Ring
I used a copper joint 3/4'' to 1/2''
one end will go inside the handle and the other outside the cane.
polish it until you can see yourself in it. if you look good, stop!
one end will go inside the handle and the other outside the cane.
polish it until you can see yourself in it. if you look good, stop!
Step 23: Fitting the Ring
Insert the ring 1/2'' part into the handle and sand so the handle match the girth of the ring
Step 24: Assembly
Put a screw inside the handle so the epoxy has something to hold onto.
Put epoxy outside the 1/2'' copper and inside the handle
fill the handle with epoxy and insert the cane
Make sure the epoxy fills the joint completely (use a seringe if you have to)
Let Dry!
Put epoxy outside the 1/2'' copper and inside the handle
fill the handle with epoxy and insert the cane
Make sure the epoxy fills the joint completely (use a seringe if you have to)
Let Dry!
Step 25: Finishing
I used glossy spray finish and put 3 coats
Step 26: Voilà!
Now you should have a beautiful and unique cane that's gonna turn heads.
Be proud of youself, that's about 15 hours of work putting the cane at about 400$
Rock on!
Be proud of youself, that's about 15 hours of work putting the cane at about 400$
Rock on!