Add Diode-Clipping Distortion to Your Guitar Amp
Intro: Add Diode-Clipping Distortion to Your Guitar Amp
Here's a relatively simple way to add some "bite" to your old guitar amplifier.
Amplifier overdrive and distortion is usually achieved by signal clipping--pushing the gain until the signal peaks are chopped off. "Real" tube overdrive isn't possible without major changes (adding additional preamp stages, etc.), but here's another option:
Preamp clipping can be simulated by installing a diode-clipping circuit. In fact, some big-name amp manufacturers (Marshall and Fender, for instance) have used diode clipping for a more ballsy sound (especially at low volumes.) In fact, it's made a bit of a resurgence in boutique amps...
The danger of converting a tube sound into a harsh "solid state" sound exists. Tubes clip with a softer "shoulder" and have a more pleasant, warm sound....of course, it's a matter of taste, after all.
But a carefully designed diode-clipper circuit can mimic those tube characteristics. "Peak clipping" more closely approximates tubes than "crossover clipping," which is common to transistor design. Plus we can utilize asymmetrical clipping to emphasize the "correct" harmonics. And since our new sound is contained within a tube amp, it will help to soften the effect.
Of course, diode-clipping can be used (and is) for solid state amps, too.
Video clip shows the three switch-selected settings: 1) clean; 2) medium clipping; 3) max clipping:
Warning: This is a "mod," and does require a bit of rewiring. All the usually cautions about discharging power supply filter capacitors apply here. To restate them:
Don't touch the internal components of a guitar amp without first draining the filter capacitors. Please. You could really harm yourself. Here's a link to my older amp project, and the section Discharge those Caps!
Amplifier overdrive and distortion is usually achieved by signal clipping--pushing the gain until the signal peaks are chopped off. "Real" tube overdrive isn't possible without major changes (adding additional preamp stages, etc.), but here's another option:
Preamp clipping can be simulated by installing a diode-clipping circuit. In fact, some big-name amp manufacturers (Marshall and Fender, for instance) have used diode clipping for a more ballsy sound (especially at low volumes.) In fact, it's made a bit of a resurgence in boutique amps...
The danger of converting a tube sound into a harsh "solid state" sound exists. Tubes clip with a softer "shoulder" and have a more pleasant, warm sound....of course, it's a matter of taste, after all.
But a carefully designed diode-clipper circuit can mimic those tube characteristics. "Peak clipping" more closely approximates tubes than "crossover clipping," which is common to transistor design. Plus we can utilize asymmetrical clipping to emphasize the "correct" harmonics. And since our new sound is contained within a tube amp, it will help to soften the effect.
Of course, diode-clipping can be used (and is) for solid state amps, too.
Video clip shows the three switch-selected settings: 1) clean; 2) medium clipping; 3) max clipping:
Warning: This is a "mod," and does require a bit of rewiring. All the usually cautions about discharging power supply filter capacitors apply here. To restate them:
Don't touch the internal components of a guitar amp without first draining the filter capacitors. Please. You could really harm yourself. Here's a link to my older amp project, and the section Discharge those Caps!
STEP 1: Let's Examine Diode Clipping...
Wow--at first glance, a diode connecting the the signal path to the ground looks like a short circuit! How can this work?
In theory, diodes conduct current in only one direction. But they don't operate "perfectly." All diodes have a "forward voltage" -- they won't conduct until that voltage is reached.
If a diode is connected between the signal path and the ground, the signal won't be channeled (shunted) to ground until it exceeds the forward voltage. And even then, the whole signal isn't dissipated, only the portion of the signal above that forward voltage. So it's peaks are simply "chopped off."
But it also results in more attenuation, as some of the signal is lost. That isn't all bad! Clipping the loudest parts is also a form of "limiting" -- you loose some dynamics, but accentuate the lower-volume sounds.
Plus, many amps don't begin to distort until turned up too loud for many venues. Like a stomp-box, diode-clipping lends a killer sound at a lower volume. Your family, roommates and neighbors will thank you.
In theory, diodes conduct current in only one direction. But they don't operate "perfectly." All diodes have a "forward voltage" -- they won't conduct until that voltage is reached.
If a diode is connected between the signal path and the ground, the signal won't be channeled (shunted) to ground until it exceeds the forward voltage. And even then, the whole signal isn't dissipated, only the portion of the signal above that forward voltage. So it's peaks are simply "chopped off."
But it also results in more attenuation, as some of the signal is lost. That isn't all bad! Clipping the loudest parts is also a form of "limiting" -- you loose some dynamics, but accentuate the lower-volume sounds.
Plus, many amps don't begin to distort until turned up too loud for many venues. Like a stomp-box, diode-clipping lends a killer sound at a lower volume. Your family, roommates and neighbors will thank you.
STEP 2: Types of Diode Clipping
The clipping effect works in both directions relative to ground--so a circuit that clips both the positive and negative signal peaks is two diodes connected in opposing directions. The diodes can be chosen to pass as much of the signal as necessary. More clipping equals more distortion.
The first illustration shows:
1) An unclipped signal
2) Asymmetrical clipping, one side of the signal (not limited to a single diode.)
3) Symmetrical clipping, where both the + and - signal is clipped equally.
4) Asymmetrical clipping, both sides.
Variation #4, asymmetrical clipping, offers the most natural and "tube-like" sound. Plus, it's the most flexible--any number of diodes in series can be used to shape the effect.
Picture #2 shows just a few variations of asymmetrical clipping. Notice that LEDs are used as diodes in examples B and C! LEDs have a much higher forward voltage than typical diodes, so the clipping can be softer and more subtle.
The first illustration shows:
1) An unclipped signal
2) Asymmetrical clipping, one side of the signal (not limited to a single diode.)
3) Symmetrical clipping, where both the + and - signal is clipped equally.
4) Asymmetrical clipping, both sides.
Variation #4, asymmetrical clipping, offers the most natural and "tube-like" sound. Plus, it's the most flexible--any number of diodes in series can be used to shape the effect.
Picture #2 shows just a few variations of asymmetrical clipping. Notice that LEDs are used as diodes in examples B and C! LEDs have a much higher forward voltage than typical diodes, so the clipping can be softer and more subtle.
STEP 3: The Design
As mentioned, using a combination of diodes, including LEDs, is a great way to begin. I've included a schematic, a wiring diagram and a photo (showing just how simple this circuit is.)
After much swapping in-and-out, I choose a combination of one germanium diode, one silicon diode and one LED.
-- a 1N4148 (D1) and a 1N60 (D2) for a combined forward voltage of ~1.05V
-- a red LED (D3) with a forward voltage of ~1.7V
The diode pairings are connected to SW1, an on-off-on double-pole switch. The center setting is "off," or no diode clipping at all. The other two settings are:
-- the diodes connected directly to the signal path.
-- the diodes connected through a pair of resistors (R1: 47K, R2: 100K)
The resistance softens the clipping, which shapes the effect. When the resistors are connected, more of the natural tube signal leaks through. There are many ways to accomplish this, and this is merely a simple example (See the "Other options" step for more info.)
To help you choose your components, here are the forward voltages for some common diodes:
~790mV -- 1N4148 (Silicon)
~265mV -- 1N60 (Germanium)
~1700mV -- LED (red)
~205mV -- Schottky 1N5819
~740mV -- 1n4001 (Silicon)
Germanium diodes tend to have softer transitions which give a non-linear, more "tubey" sound. But silicon diodes can give a sharper "square wave" metallic distortion, if that's your thing.
Before you build it:
It's important to understand that the peak signal voltages will differ greatly, amp-to-amp. No one combination of diodes will give the same effect in different amps.
And no one combination of diodes sounds good to everyone, either. Experiment! Try 2, 3, 4 or more diodes in series. Keep the sides unbalanced, or use switches to tap the signal in different ways.
(Note: on some amps, the LED(s) will actually light up--they don't in my amp, the peak voltages aren't high enough.)
After much swapping in-and-out, I choose a combination of one germanium diode, one silicon diode and one LED.
-- a 1N4148 (D1) and a 1N60 (D2) for a combined forward voltage of ~1.05V
-- a red LED (D3) with a forward voltage of ~1.7V
The diode pairings are connected to SW1, an on-off-on double-pole switch. The center setting is "off," or no diode clipping at all. The other two settings are:
-- the diodes connected directly to the signal path.
-- the diodes connected through a pair of resistors (R1: 47K, R2: 100K)
The resistance softens the clipping, which shapes the effect. When the resistors are connected, more of the natural tube signal leaks through. There are many ways to accomplish this, and this is merely a simple example (See the "Other options" step for more info.)
To help you choose your components, here are the forward voltages for some common diodes:
~790mV -- 1N4148 (Silicon)
~265mV -- 1N60 (Germanium)
~1700mV -- LED (red)
~205mV -- Schottky 1N5819
~740mV -- 1n4001 (Silicon)
Germanium diodes tend to have softer transitions which give a non-linear, more "tubey" sound. But silicon diodes can give a sharper "square wave" metallic distortion, if that's your thing.
Before you build it:
It's important to understand that the peak signal voltages will differ greatly, amp-to-amp. No one combination of diodes will give the same effect in different amps.
And no one combination of diodes sounds good to everyone, either. Experiment! Try 2, 3, 4 or more diodes in series. Keep the sides unbalanced, or use switches to tap the signal in different ways.
(Note: on some amps, the LED(s) will actually light up--they don't in my amp, the peak voltages aren't high enough.)
STEP 4: Inserting the Circuit
Exactly where should the clipping circuit be added? Well... first, where NOT to place it...
--Don't insert at the input circuit (before the preamp.) Guitar signals are quite weak, and even if the circuit functions partially with a really hot pickup, it likely won't work at all with other guitars.
--Don't insert in the driver portion of the power amp (output transformer primary.)
--Don't insert in the output transformer secondary / speaker loop.
The last two examples will greatly attenuate (lessen) the volume of the amp, probably "fry" the diodes, and possibly ruin the power tubes or the output transformer.
So, where should it go?
--Within, or just after the preamp circuit. The red line illustrates the signal path between the preamp and the output stages. This amp has a single preamp stage, so this is the only acceptable place (in this case.)
The points B and C are all possible places to connect the clipping circuit. I chose C, since this amp is never too loud, and turning down the volume will change the character slightly. Connection point B are probably better if you wish to retain the full clipping effect when the volume control is turned down. Point A is unsuitable, due to the DC plate voltage.
Amps with a dual-tube preamp are ideal--any signal attenuation lost in the clipping can be recovered by increasing the gain of the second preamp stage. (Of course, that pre-supposes that you have the expertise to do so...)
There will be some attenuation with diode clipping--some signal will be lost. This isn't really tragic, however. Most players would prefer to get "that sound" at lower volumes.
--Don't insert at the input circuit (before the preamp.) Guitar signals are quite weak, and even if the circuit functions partially with a really hot pickup, it likely won't work at all with other guitars.
--Don't insert in the driver portion of the power amp (output transformer primary.)
--Don't insert in the output transformer secondary / speaker loop.
The last two examples will greatly attenuate (lessen) the volume of the amp, probably "fry" the diodes, and possibly ruin the power tubes or the output transformer.
So, where should it go?
--Within, or just after the preamp circuit. The red line illustrates the signal path between the preamp and the output stages. This amp has a single preamp stage, so this is the only acceptable place (in this case.)
The points B and C are all possible places to connect the clipping circuit. I chose C, since this amp is never too loud, and turning down the volume will change the character slightly. Connection point B are probably better if you wish to retain the full clipping effect when the volume control is turned down. Point A is unsuitable, due to the DC plate voltage.
Amps with a dual-tube preamp are ideal--any signal attenuation lost in the clipping can be recovered by increasing the gain of the second preamp stage. (Of course, that pre-supposes that you have the expertise to do so...)
There will be some attenuation with diode clipping--some signal will be lost. This isn't really tragic, however. Most players would prefer to get "that sound" at lower volumes.
STEP 5: Other Options...
Although I chose an on / off / on circuit, the amount of distortion can also be controlled by simply adding a POT. Now the effect can be adjusted, and the desired asymmetry "dialed in." It should be noted that I've add a fixed "mix control" to mine--the two resistors. But a variable control might be of value....
And there are many diode types we haven't covered: zener, silicon, other LED colors, etc. Even MOSFET transistors have a voltage drop.
Flipping the asymmetry--switching the directions of all the diodes, will also have an effect. This can emphasize odd or even harmonics. Choose whichever sounds best to you.
There are a great many variations of diode clipping circuits. Here are a few links to get you started... :
-- DIY Fever: Diode Clipping
-- MOSFETs as diodes
-- AMZ - Diode clipping staturation controls
-- AMZ - "Warp" controls--balancing diode clipping
-- AMZ - Mosfets and Zeners as clipping diodes
And there are many diode types we haven't covered: zener, silicon, other LED colors, etc. Even MOSFET transistors have a voltage drop.
Flipping the asymmetry--switching the directions of all the diodes, will also have an effect. This can emphasize odd or even harmonics. Choose whichever sounds best to you.
There are a great many variations of diode clipping circuits. Here are a few links to get you started... :
-- DIY Fever: Diode Clipping
-- MOSFETs as diodes
-- AMZ - Diode clipping staturation controls
-- AMZ - "Warp" controls--balancing diode clipping
-- AMZ - Mosfets and Zeners as clipping diodes
STEP 6: But How Does It Sound?
Well, IMO, pretty good...
It definitely gives a harder-edge to the natural distortion of my amp. But it's a small amp, and the attenuation is fairly significant in the "full-on" setting.
At least one thing must be noted:
A simple mod like this isn't going to give you an over-the-top metal-chorus-delay-flange-mega-distortion effect. You're better off using a stompbox or fancy rack-mount fx unit. But if you like the sound of your amp clean, you probably will like it even better with a little "dirt."
To be honest, a good tube amp with some flexibility really brings out the character of different guitars better than the external FX. And you can always use the stompboxs with the mod anyway...
It definitely gives a harder-edge to the natural distortion of my amp. But it's a small amp, and the attenuation is fairly significant in the "full-on" setting.
At least one thing must be noted:
A simple mod like this isn't going to give you an over-the-top metal-chorus-delay-flange-mega-distortion effect. You're better off using a stompbox or fancy rack-mount fx unit. But if you like the sound of your amp clean, you probably will like it even better with a little "dirt."
To be honest, a good tube amp with some flexibility really brings out the character of different guitars better than the external FX. And you can always use the stompboxs with the mod anyway...
76 Comments
BubbaLeesEvilCreation 5 months ago
quigleysam1 6 months ago
valve.king.5 9 years ago
I have been wondering if I connected a rectifier tube in the same manner, would it have the same effect in a tube preamp circuit? Isn't a rectifier just a big ole' gassy pair of diodes in tube form?
dragon.servicing 6 years ago
Hi, well the voltage drop across a rectifier tube is likely to be greater that with the diodes mentioned. so you might need to find a place in the pre amp that has enough voltage drive for the rectifier tube to limit the signal.
gmoon 9 years ago
Yeah, you can use the diodes in a tube rectifier for a clipping effect. I've never tried it, but you can search the web and find examples.
ChristinD 7 years ago
gmoon 7 years ago
You might look at a "Tube Screamer" schematic, which uses diodes in a feedback loop, for "soft clipping."
ChristinD 7 years ago
chadsmiff 8 years ago
I'm still in the building process of an single channel 18 Watt clone. But, I'm thinking ahead about greasing up the tone. I've put together a quick Diode clipping circuit with a switch like yours and a potentiometer. I still have to breadboard it to determine what components I want to settle with. But as far as the potentiometers ground/signal connection and the signal flow order of the switch and pot, which of my two diagrams do you see as a fail/success?
gmoon 8 years ago
A few comments:
-- On both your drawings, the first (signal path in) switch doesn't split the signal and sent it to the different diode clippers before recombining. It simply either inserts two resistors in parallel (which works as a single resistor) -- or removes them completely. That circuit split has to carry through the clippers before it's recombined, to work like this project.
Might the circuit in your drawing have an effect? Sure, some resistance is added. But the clipper in the project was "tuned" asymmetrically (to my ear) with that setup, and yours is different. Not necessarily bad (if it sounds good), just different.
-- the switch in your left drawing connects the clippers to the signal, or to ground. It either clips, or mutes the signal entirely.
-- All the values (diodes, resistors) in this project are somewhat dependent on the peak preamp voltage. So don't get caught up on the resistor values (for instance). It definitely needs to be breadboard tested first.
-- A switch might add or switch out the two LEDs in your drawing. The voltage drop over LEDs is greater than the other diodes, so that's all gonna depend on the peak preamp voltage in your amp.
chadsmiff 8 years ago
Yeah, I wasn't set on any values yet. I was more concerned with the order of the pot, switch and circuit. So, what you are saying is that the pot should be either before the switch or after the circuit, rather than in between the pot and circuit. Like in this diagram.
gmoon 8 years ago
That's more functional. Although (look carefully) the first (input) switch isn't needed. The switch with the resistors (if it's center OFF like I used) will do everything. Just connect the two middle contacts to the input.
Middle is OFF (no clipping), one direction is full clipping, other direction is clipping through the resistors.
You might use a second switch to play with the diodes instead...
chadsmiff 8 years ago
Ha! My potentiometer does look like a switch doesn't it? That's a pot from an above angle. I wanted to control the depth of the clipping effect. And that is a on-off-on switch. Thanks.
gmoon 8 years ago
Ah, my bad! Rock on!
freeza36 11 years ago
Calligraphy 15 years ago
ski4jesus 13 years ago
gmoon 15 years ago
Find a point along the signal path after a coupling capacitor and before an amplifying component (transistor, opamp, tube, etc.)
Look at step five for ideas to control the amount of clipping.
eyeball226 13 years ago
gmoon 13 years ago
It should be reiterated that the total voltage drop for the diodes should be calculated for the peak voltage of the signal path, and not just taken verbatim from my project...