Introduction: Amigurumi Paopu Fruit
I crochet this plushy out of acrylic yarn.
Like most amigurumi, this was crochet in the round without joining. First I made a matching front and back piece. Then, I joined them while adding the points.
My original inspiration was this pattern:
But I've made some changes so it is truly amigurumi and more paopu-like.
Here's what you'll need:
Yellow worsted weight yarn (you won't need a whole skein, unless you decide you make it super big)
Green worsted weight yarn (you don't need much, just enough to make the leaf)
crochet hook (D/2.25mm hook works well, if you want to make it the size I did, you crochet with 2 strands of yarn as if they where one and go up to an I/5.50mm hook)
1 yarn needle.
You should also know how to:
use a magic ring, here's a good example : https://www.instructables.com/id/Amigurumi-Cherry/
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet (double crochet in Europe)
dc = double crochet
tr = treble crochet
dtr = double treble crochet
sc2tog = single crochet 2 together
Step 1: Front/Back
You are going to want to use a magic ring to start this as it will eliminate the problematic hole beginning with a chain can leave.
WireMySoul has a great video demonstrating this technique, here: https://www.instructables.com/id/Amigurumi-Cherry/ .
1: Make a magic ring, pull a loop through the center, 2ch. Then inside the starting ring, you are going to sc5.
******DON"T JOIN WITH A SLIP STITCH!!! This would make this pattern not amigurumi, not to mention it leaves a noticeable seam-- not pretty. We like pretty.******
2: In your first sc of the starting 5sc(don't count the pseudo-stitch you made by 2ch in the magic circle at the beginning, this stitch will end up shrunken when you close the circle) , 2sc (This is where I pull my tail to close the magic ring) and in each stitch around. (10)
---------You can begin using a stitch marker here, I usually find a scrap piece of yarn. It will be pulled out later----------
3: 1sc in the next stitch, 2sc the stitch after (repeat 4 more times)(15)
4: 1sc in the next 2 stitches, 2sc the stitch after (repeat 4 more times)(20)
5: 1sc in the next stitch, 2sc int stitch after (repeat 9 more times)(30)
---------Make 2 of these, without fastening off. Leave a tail about a yard long and detach the piece from the skein. You will be using these tails to begin a point, one each.---------
Step 2: Points!
Now we will add the points to the paopu. These are a little tricky at first. If you think you're going to get confused about where you added stitches around the faces, I would suggest putting a stitch marker in each of the 2sc around the outer edge on both faces. There should be one between the two most recent stitches and another every 3sc back from these. You will want to mark only every other one, making sure they are evenly spaced around the edge(there should end up being 5 markers). Now is also a good time to count and make sure you have 30 stitches along the outside edge.
Ok, let's get going:
1: Put you hook back into the loop you left when you finished either piece. You will make 6sc, as if you were going to continue around. You should be to the next "point" or 2sc from the round before, so pick up your other "face" and find on of these 2sc's on it. You will be making the points by going in the round, so make sure your wrong sides are together. 1sc in the "point" you've chosen on the second "face" and in the next 5 sc--this should put you in the sc before the next 2sc. (12)
--------DO NOT STITCH THE TWO FACE PIECES TOGETHER. Easy mistake, really frustrating to notice once you're stuffing.... (ie: writer knows this from experience.)
2: Keeping the face pieces together, turn your work and sc in the 12th stitch back from where you are, this will be the first stitch of this points round. (12)
3: Now you make the first decreases. Sc2tog, sc in next 2, sc2tog twice, sc next 2, and finish this row by sc2tog.(8)
4: sc around, 8 stitches in total.(8)
5: Here you will do 4 sc2tog, finishing off your point.(4)
---------I usually weave my end through a couple of the remaining stitches before using the tail end to fasten off. This is mostly because it helps pull the point closed, makes it more round, and visually appealing.-----
Repeat this with the other tail you left on the opposite "face" making sure you are crocheting in stitches directly opposite the stitches you just worked. You will have to start the other three points by slip stitching the loose yarn onto one of the faces. Make sure the "crotches" of your points don't share a stitch; there should be enough for each point to have 6 stitches on each face without any sharing.
5 X 6 = 30 (yeah!)
********Don't forget to add stuffing before fastening off your 5th point. You can usually squeeze it in before you complete your last 4 sc2tog. However, it works better to stuff the other points and center before any decreasing for the last point and then fill the last point before final decreases and closing.*********
As mentioned above, between each pair of points there will be a crotch of sorts. I close these up by pulling the remaining tails from each point down through the center of the point and then weaving the tail between the 2 faces to pull it closed. You can sew it closed with a yarn needle too, whatever makes you happiest.
You now have a very star-like plushy, you can keep it this way and make the invincibility star or maybe make a graduation present.
There are a couple more steps if you want to make a paopu fruit.
Step 3: Making the Segments
You might have noticed this looks pretty much like a star at this point. To make it more paopu-like, we need to add segments. To do this you will need to use a yarn needle.
1: Starting at the crotch between two point with the yellow yarn on the needle, take a couple of stitches to secure the yarn to the fruit. Following the places where there are 2sc in the top of 1sc, sew up and down-- through both sides-- till you get to the center. Try to keep the stitches going though the front and back pieces in the same round(1-5) so the line doesn't pucker.
2: Pull the stitches tight to make a divide, one side of a segment.
3: Heading towards a different "crotch," stitch up and down, following the 2sc in the top of 1sc out.
4: Pull this part tight, tying off the yarn and hiding the ends.
5: Repeat this with the remaining "crotches," the last will be tied off in the middle.
--------- Don't pull your stitches so tight that fruit puckers of wads up in the middle --------
Your work should look pretty familiar at this point, now for some finishing touches.
Step 4: Time to Make Like a Tree and Leaf
Step 5: Finished Amigurumi Paopu Fruit
And you're done!!! Even though you can't split it in half and share it, you can always make another to share.
If you want your paopu to look ripened, I suggest using fabric markers and shade in a little blush, using purple in the middle and pink along the purple. I like it more without this; but, as usual, you should make it the way you want.
Thanks for your time, hope you enjoy this project as much as I enjoyed making it!!
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