Introduction: Ammo Can Bluetooth Speaker Power Supply

I know there are many variations of the Bluetooth speaker sets, but here is mine. I combined the Bluetooth speakers and portable power supply.

Step 1: PARTS:

Ammo can 50 cal cost between 10 to 20 dollars

2 pieces of wood 12 x 8 ( you will need to measure the inside of the box and cut to size)

18 gauge wire

½ oak dowel rod

Toggle switch

6mm Shaft Hole Dia Plastic Threaded Knurled Potentiometer Knobs Caps

Nylon Plastic Socket Body Dual USB Charger + Voltmeter+ 12V Socket + 3 Hole Panel Marine Car Boat LED


Douk TPA3116 Bluetooth 4.0 Audio Receiver HiFi Stereo amp Amplifier Board 50W*2

Electrical Shrink tubing



5.5mm x 2.1mm DC Power Right Angle Adapter Cable Cord Male Plug Jack

Male Car Cigarette Lighter Socket Plug Connector With Fuse Red LED Connector

2x4 clear wielding lens

Paint for the lens

Male Fully Insulated Wire Terminals Connector

Step 2: TOOLS:

Saw (I used a radial arm saw)

Soldering iron

Hair dryer ( for shrink tubing)

Dermal (rotary tool)

Oscillating tool

Drill and drill bits (1 ⅛ , ½, ¾ bits a must)

Screw driver phillips


Wire cutter crimper

Dermal circle cutting jig (optional but makes life easier)

automatic center punch

layout compass

combination square

Step 3: Assembly:

Here I measured the wood (in this case it was leftover bamboo flooring) you will need to round the corners with a sander will do a good job at this. Now you will need to lay out everything measure the battery for you can lay out the slot you will cut out on the bottom piece of wood, also you will need to layout the holes on the ammo can, mark the center points with a pencil and use the compass to layout the outer diameter of the speakers to make sure you have enough room to install the speakers once you are happy with the the spacing use the center punch to mark the center point adjust the compass to the size you will need to cut and mark your cut lines .

Cut the holes out for the speakers I used a dermal with the circle jig and scribed the line out with a burr bit then used the cutting wheel to cut the cookie out and cleaned everything up with a grinding stone remember tight fitting is better, if it is a bit too small the grinding wheel will work fine to get to finished size.

I used the dowels as a spacer for the top piece of wood I did not glue the top down to be able to get to the battery you will need to make sure the gap between the top of the box and the top of the wood should be about 1" min. the length of the dowels should be 5½" 4 pieces, layout the holes in the bottom piece of wood. drill the holes all the way through (if you have foster drill bits you can drill ¼" down remember to shorten your dowels by ¼") and glue your dowels in place

Next lay out and drill the holes. the switch hole is ¾ the 3 holes for the volt meter, 12v port, and the usb ports is1 ⅛ one 1” hole is for you to remove the top panel. measure your bluetooth board with and thickness layout where the board will sit and cut out the rectangle slot. now for the 2x4 clear lens you will need to measure the center points of the nobs center points lay them out on the 2x4 lens and drill the holes the size of the nob posts. drill a hole in each corner of the 2x4 lens for mounting screws. After you are happy with everything paint it.

In between the power jack and the rca jacks of your bluetooth amp board you will find 4 holes labled + - + - this is where you need to solder the speaker wires

Ok basic wire diagram blue is negative, red is positive, on the switch it has 3 terminals top is hot this is why the 12 volt cig socket connects here so you can charge the battery with the rest of the system is down, middle terminal is the load side (what you will be powering) and the bottom is negative.

The nobs are from left to right treble, bass, volume the switch is basically a mute switch

For the final step cut the alligator clips off the charger and put the male cig plug in it you will charge through the cig port