Introduction: Amp Stand and Self Illuminating Sliding Drawer Compartment

Body is made of 1/2” plywood


Two 4x8’ sheets of standard plywood
1/2” wooden dowel
And masking tape
Battery operated power tools
Skill saw
Router with 3/8”and 1/2” bits with top and bottom guid bearings
Jig saw and orbital sander with various grits from 40 to 250
As for hand tools
Various files
Japanese dove tail saw
Hand plane
Wood chisels
And some custom tools made from flat aluminum stock for sanding and guides
As well as other various shapes

Step 1:

Step 2: Main Cuts

This is my first instructable
Not used to documenting my progress when it come to projects.
I was unaware of the contest when I began this journey so a little imagination is required.
As well to be noted I work from my small apartment kitchen and balcony..
When I came up with this challenge
I decided to use relatively cheep materials with little to no tolerance for loss or error

So I started by using my caliper to measure the edge of my carbide tip on my skill saw to accurately trace and lay a straight guid to to acquire 4 cuts of 11 7/8”
Off my four feet
And 5 cuts 18 7/8” along my 8’ side

Step 3: Making a Jig

I then made a jig from a 2D model I printed out in viacad and used wood glue to stick it to 1/4” Masonite
Which had to be modified as the project advanced to avoid making separate jigs

Step 4: Piercing the Holes and Making a Secondary Jig

I’m with out a press drill but I knew I had to make ten hole perfectly square For my dowels which would ensure perfect alignment as I bind them together with glue
so I used my makita router witch doesn’t have plung capabilities wich made the process tedious but not impossible
So I made a larger jig that allowed me to center my piec of plywood under 3/4 plywood with central seating for the router I’ve each designated area
The process had to be done in two shots due to a lack of clearance
I also pierced a 1/4 “ hole for a switch that will be seated below the drawer and wires lead all the way to my rear panned and up to my lights nothing will be exposed
At this point one of my neighbours donated to me an old rusty king Canada bench top press drill that I restored in a few hours to help this process come along
To then take the opportunity to pierce the two3/8” holes for the lights channel as wel as the top and bottom radius for my rails channel Better late than never but I can tell you iron those initial 400 holes of pure desperation

Step 5: Routing the Exterior Panel and Modifying the Jig

I was now able to set the dowels in line with the jig and work piece
passing it over the router with top Bering that I jeryrigged to a scrap piece of 3/4 plywood reinforced with two 2x4s underneath to keep her as straight as possible clamped to the corner piece of my balcony
Bah it worked

Step 6: Cutting the Inside Pattern

After cutting and fine tuning the inside of my jig I proceeded to trace each panel 1/8 inside the pattern so I could free hand cut each one individually

Step 7:

Cut the straight cuts with my skill saw and corners with my jig saw
I pre pierced the channel’s for my sliding rail to reduce strain on the wood and bit since it’s such a delicate spot
Every thing is going with out a hitch so far
Which is good because I already ordered 19.5 square feet of horween black textured leather and 18’ of 1/4” square brass stock
No going back now

Step 8: Numbering Each Panel

I had to number each panel because not every panel has a light channel
Only the central 32
The front panel 3and 4 have a channel that rises up in to the assembly and transfos over from one channel to another
And the five back panels ha e that same climbing offset that lead all the way to the back
Hopefully it’ll all make sence soon enough

Step 9: Glueing the 32 Central Panels

I set my dowels 1/4” x 1” dowels with a recess of a 1/4 knowing I would have to marry my front panels on later
To ensure true alignment
I would glue 2 to 3 panels at a time to ensure that my following layers would have a hard surface to bond to since I didn’t have a scrap panel I could use to distribute the pressure evenly while still providing me acces inside to clean the squeeze through
I could have made one but by the time I get home it’s pitch black out here and I spent more time cleaning my place with each cut I make them it took for me two laminate every layer
So it allowed me to progress through my week
And I kept having bad luck on weekends either poor weather or higher responsibility’s

Step 10: Making a Flat Surface for Lights

My initial plan was to place the assembly on a aproxamat 45° Or whatever was necessary to ensure that the base of my group for my lights was absolutely level and fill the base of the groove for my lights with epoxy to square off the surface so my lights can actually have a nice flat surface to sit on and adhere properly but then I decided to just purchase myself a half inch dowel and I bifurcated it then used my hand plane to bring her down to a very low profile

Step 11: Installing the Flat Dowels and Using My Dremel to Ensure a Clear Path for the Next Two Following Panels

I went ahead and taped the surface of my dowels now flattened just to ensure that I don’t get any over spill of glue while installing, I used two other additional long left over dowels to apply pressure on a cross angle as well as three hangers that I bent into shape just ensuring that they would maintain tension

Step 12: Dremiling Out the Recesses

I used my industrial Makita Dremel with a round 3/16 bit on it to clear any material that might interfere on the adjacent panels that would follow to ensure that my connection to my lights and wiring would be concealed and seated snugly in a space that allows the wiring to pass and not apply any tension on the light strip itself while maintaining an absolute image as if it leads into nothing
As well as removing the material on my main body to begin the ascension into the remaining front and back panels
And yes I almost forgot I also continuously use a variety of files and handtools which I continuously fail to mention

Step 13: Front Panels

My front panels have a recess in the bottom left corner which will be concealed from plain sight by the drawer base itself so unless you look under you won’t even see it
I used my wood chisels to create that recess no easy feat on plywood mind you but I managed to get it done
Pro tip make sure they’re deadly sharp
And feel free to tape the sides tight when left with such little clearance for precautionary reasons
there’s a quarter inch hole that I initially pierced on every panel that leads straight to the back end which will rise up in between my rear panel inserts into the control box and directly to the power supply which will allow the lights to come on the second door is open and close when the door closes

No my initial plan was to leave the surfaces between the door and main body as well as the rear panel and main body plywood but then I realize that once I get that leather on it’s gonna make for a pretty doll seem so initially I had made a small brass cut out for the switch the pass-through and still have access if ever need be but now I’ve decided to just order four sheets of 12 1/4 x 18 of 18 inch thick brass which in my opinion will make for a nicer finish and it’ll be secured in by 3/8 inch flat head brass wood screws

The push pin on the switch will eventually be replaced by a 1/4” brass round bar

Step 14: Tuning the Slide Rail Area

Now this section was an area of contemplation I didn’t feel like having sides to my drawer I just wanted a sort of medical like Trey and I didn’t want any kind of overhang or lose too much height either by creating double layers so that’s where I decided to have my rails in dented inside the body but doing so removes a lot of force on individual panels but once assembled it gains a lot of force and once that rail is inserted under tension it becomes basically one with the assembly providing even more strength
But with that said that leaves me no room for adjustment unless it’s done directly to the assembly so this is where the sanding process began and one I made myself a custom tool using an aluminum flat bar and he said Velcro and some Velcro back to sandpaper as well as various rat tails and files

Step 15: Main Sanding

Now as it stands I’m about builder I work alone with the two owners of the company and we make 35 foot aluminum lobster boats and you can just imagine how tedious it might be spending more time cleaning up after every step I make in my apartment then it is doing the work itself now with winter at my front doorTo go in on a Saturday morning to do the majority of my sandingAre use the grinder with 50 grit sandpaper on it to break down all the squeeze through then I use my straight edge and hand sanded it true on all sides then I use my orbital sander to work my way up to 250 grit from 60inside and out

Step 16: Inspiration Conclusion and Thanks

Everything is been tested everything lines up to enough precision for my needs I still have to laminate together my front and back panels but I got a wait for my brass cause I’m gonna be using them as templates
But by now I guess you’ve come to the conclusion as well that I haven’t finished but I’ve had the plan and execution based on my Tools space and abilities in my head far before I begin this project so I am not worried about completing it the final product is going to be covered in whore ween leather two brass quarter inch strips that go around and are gonna be acting as feet only that centre base channel it will not have those brass strips leaving it Void exposing the layers of plywood
As well as on top once the weather is has covered the assembly I’ll be router ring out about a quarter inch deep on the top surface precisely the dimensions of the feet of my app so it’s it’s snug without being able to even be jostled around the inspiration for this came from my marshal amp to begin with I’ll also be making in Marshall inlay using Brazilian hardwood where I will print a stencil and cut it using a jeweller saw and other various hand tools and files
I’m also waiting on my 2.5mm male and female power connectors
I apologize for not completing the project on time as well as any spelling mistakes and the fact that my pictures seem to be coming out inverted I went to work early this morning for six then went to the clinic at 8:30 for my Remicade treatment which lasted three hours where I began filling out this Instructables went back to work finished at five and I’m trying to get this done so I could submit it before the deadline I’m already exhausted as it is no excuse but I’m not one for technology too much and I’m doing this on my phone and my phone isn’t of a quality that makes this process any easier nowWhether or not I am admissible for any kind of recognition that’s up to the Instructables but I do hope someone out there does enjoy this sunny Saturday his face that is the majority aspect of the plywood build everything that goes beyond this is going to be done with oak leather and brass as well as the wiring lighting and installation of the drawer
I’m still waiting for my leather to arrive as well as my brass
There’s only so much a man in my position can do with responsibilities outweighing the présidence of this project but
Thanks To everyone and anyone who takes the time And put up with the poor images and typos it’s almost 9 pm and it’s time for me to hang the towel up for the night
Plywood Challenge

Participated in the
Plywood Challenge