Anodizing Metal at Home (The LJS Method)




Introduction: Anodizing Metal at Home (The LJS Method)

About: All you need to know is I exist......

In my free (pah, free) time I do metalworking. Sometimes I make Mini Swords, other times Jewellery. Sometimes I make things that even I don't know what to do with them.
But regardless, they are all silver and shiny.

Seeing as a lot of my recent jewellery has been made from Aluminium, I decided to look at Anodising. After Anodising Aluminium it should be more receptive to paints and dyes.

This instructable will cover the process of Anodising and Dying small Aluminium parts using materials that anyone can find.

Oh, and LJS? Lemon Juice Substitution. I use it as a generic electrolyte for any electrochemical reaction at home.

The Setup:
Small container. Mayonnaise container, jam jar etc.
Aluminium scrap
19V+ power supply going to crocodile clips (May work down to ~12V. Read the next page)
Coke can

4 Lemons (Or lots of vinegar)
Object to be Anodized (Aluminium)
Dye, ink or paint (I used Parker's Quink, but you can use just about anything though)

Step 1: The Theory

I had heard about Anodizing before, and seen it often enough, so it was natural that when I wanted to colour metal, it would come into my head.
My first step was to gather information. As per my usual on the web, it was Wikipedia first.

Here are the claimed benefits of Anodizing:

"Anodizing increases corrosion resistance and wear resistance, and provides better adhesion for paint primers and glues than does bare metal. Anodic films can also be used for a number of cosmetic effects, either with thick porous coatings that can absorb dyes or with thin transparent coatings that add interference effects to reflected light."
Anodizing - Wikipedia

After wading through the first paragraph or two, I came across good information on the process. It goes something like this:
1) Clean it
2) Put it in an acidic electrolyte.
3) Run a DC voltage through it.
4) Dye/paint it.
5) Seal it

Of course there is a little more involved. I'll go over these in depth in later steps, but here's the overview:
They recommend cleaning it in a solvent bath. I rubbed it with methylated spirits.
They suggest using ... Sulphuric acid. I don't have any, nor do I want any. However, lemon juice is acidic and conducts well enough.
Apparently the process can take anywhere from 1-300 volts, but Wikipedia adds:

"most fall in the range of 15 to 21 V"
Anodizing - Wikipedia

It adds a final piece of advice for us home experimenters:

"Conditions such as electrolyte concentration, acidity, solution temperature, and current must be controlled to allow the formation of a consistent oxide layer. Harder, thicker films tend to be produced by more dilute solutions at lower temperatures with higher voltages and currents."
Anodizing - Wikipedia

Now it was time to go and see just how well it would work.

Step 2: Making the 'Bath'

Lemon Method:
Time to get out the lemon juicer.

Cut four lemons in half, and juice them.
Take the juice, and put it through the finest strainer you have. The aim is to get rid of the pulpy stuff.
Make the amount up to about a cup by running water through the pulf then straining it. In this way you'll get even more 'lemon' from the lemon.

Now pour the lemon juice into a suitable container. Ideally this will be tall and thin, but still big enough to fit your part easily. Anything works, so long as your part fits into it.
Make sure your part will be completely covered. If if won't, then just add more water. No need to pulp more lemons, as the concentration isn't important. All that will happen is that the current will drop slightly.

Vinegar Method:
This is a lot easier that the lemon method, but it will use up vinegar, which you have to pay for. Vinegar also has a higher resistance, meaning the process will go slower.
For this you can simply pour it in (don't dilute it though). You can skip the next step as well, as vinegar is pure enough already.

There will be two electrodes inserted into this bath. One is the piece of work itself, which will be put onto the Anode. But you also have to have a Cathode.
For this take your scrap piece of Aluminium (one site recommends Lead, but I can't see any reason for it. If you know, please tell me), and attach the negative end of your power supply to it. It should be bigger than the part you want plated.

Mount your scrap somewhere within the bath, but make sure that the wire from the power supply isn't in the lemon juice. If it is then the wire will start to dissolve, and you'll end up copper-plating the piece you want to anodize.

Step 3: Cleaning Out the Lemon

Lemon is pretty gunky stuff, and even though you've strained it, you'll need to clean it of chemicals that will interfere with the process of Anodising. This doesn't take long.

Stick a piece of scrap aluminium in as the Anode (the other end, +ve, where your work will go later) and insert it into the bath. 
Once again make sure that the wire doesn't come into contact with the solution.

Run it for 5 or so minutes. You should see some bubbles form, and the colour might change.
  - If it goes green, then you've got some copper in there somehow.
Ideally it will look the same, but when you take out the Anode, you'll see some scum has built up on it. (As well as bubbles)

Take your scrap off the Anode, you're now ready to anodize your actual part.

Step 4: Anodising Your Part

Now we have a problem. We want to make sure that we only have Aluminium in the Lemon Juice, but we also want the whole part to be immersed, so it can Anodise properly.
The way I did it was by only inserting half the piece, and every ten minutes or so rotating it, so it ended up coating evenly enough.

Any part that touches the bottom or sides of the container also will not be anodized.

Run it. Let your piece sit in the bath for an hour or more.
- Bubbles will form. This is normal, and it is the formation of Oxygen gam at the Anode that makes the process work.
- Your solution may heat up as well. This isn't desirable as it will cause different speed plating, and so different size 'pores.' The only way I can see to offset this is to only run it for shorter periods at a time, and have a big container that will hold coolness for longer. I never noticed this as a problem, but if you are doing it commercially it might be.

If you remove the part from the bath and clean off the bubbles you will see that the object has gone matte. This is because the surface is now pitted with tiny little holes in a layer of the darker Aluminium oxide. When the layer is only thin, this can be scratched off with anything metal. When it is thicker it still can, you just don't notice it so much!

Finally remove the part from the bath, and rub it with some toilet paper to remove the lemon juice. 

Step 5: Dyeing

The whole purpose of this was to colour the part, right?

One way to do this is to paint it. The heart was painted with acrylic paint, and while it could do with another coat, it's looking pretty good.

For the blue 'thing' I just dumped it in some blue/black Parkers quink, pulled it out, hung it from a thin piece of wire, and let it sit for an hour to soak in. I imagine that any ink or dye will work.
After it has soaked in rub the excess off with another piece of tissue paper.

You now have colour on your metal!

If you painted it, then you're finished, but if you dyed it, you may wish to seal it.

Step 6: Sealing and Next Steps

I haven't actually tried sealing yet, so I shall just quote some other places.

Leave the part in the boiling water or steamer for 30 minutes if sealant is used, and hour if it wasnt used.

Add color to your anodized metal by placing the metal into the dye solution. Heat to boiling and allow the metal to boil in the solution for about 30 minutes. Remove from the dye solution and rinse with boiling water, then set the dye by placing the metal into the vegetable steamer for about a half hour. Use tongs and gloves when moving the metal from station to station to protect your hands from the heat and from the acids you are working with.

Wikipedia explains this whole water steaming part.
What happens is that it turns the metal into it's hydrated state, making it swell and seal in the dye. For some reason this doesn't stop the colour showing.

Next Steps:
Fist off, I''ll try sealing. Currently I don't have any reason to, but I may at some stage.

The coating on these parts wasn't very tough, it scratches off with anything metal.
Back at the beginning, wikipedia told me:
Harder, thicker films tend to be produced by more dilute solutions at lower temperatures with higher voltages and currents."
With the current gear at my disposal I can't create greater voltages. So it seems I'm stuck where I am.

Squeezing lemons is a pain in the neck. It takes ages, and is 'impure.' I may try other organic acids. Vinegar (concentrated somehow?)  seems the obvious one to try.

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    2 years ago on Step 6

    I did some home anodising a few years ago with good results. I used battery acid (sulfuric acid) in the electrolyte. To get a good finish, you need to keep everything squeaky clean - and preferably use de-ionised water. The parts need to be completely degreased before you put them in the anodising bath as well. I also tried cleaning the parts by washing them in the dishwasher. This works, although you do wind up with an oxide layer on the surface. (You can also "anodise" aluminium by putting it in the dishwasher with a more than recommended amount of the cheapest dishwasher powder you can get - basically just plain sodium carbonate).

    Instead of lemon juice, I'd try citric acid (available at supermarkets). I'm also keen to give acetic acid a go. Definitely use the geapest white vinegar you can get, because it's just acetic acid and water. Apple cider, white wine and red wine vinegar have other impurities in them. Worth trying the different types though, may give you some interesting effects.


    2 years ago

    1. In the production process of aluminum profile, the conductive contact area of the fixture and the mark of the fixture shall be minimized.
    2. In the production process, the temperature of sulfuric acid anodizing solution should be controlled within a certain range, preferably 15 to 25 ℃.
    3. Some small size components do not need sulfuric acid anodizing.
    4. The production process needs to be equipped with a cold device, using a compressed air mixer.
    5. Aluminum profiles with different materials and specifications need to be treated .
    If you want higher precision anodized metal, you'd better choose a professional


    5 years ago

    I anodized an aluminum bar. It's sealed too. For some reason, the anodized surface became a darker grey after sealing. It may need pure water. The anodized surfaces read higher on an IR thermometer.


    Reply 5 years ago

    You can get 24V from an ATX power supply if you use its 12V and -12V rails.


    6 years ago

    White vinegar is available in various strengths--some strong enough that it is used as an organic herbicide. If you want to distill or concentrate grocery store vinegar, freezing it and skimming of the frozen water on top is easier than heat distilling. It's how old-timers made applejack from cider, and how lots of concentrated juices are made. Good info. Thanks for posting.


    7 years ago on Introduction

    If you wanted to concentrate your vinegar, you can purify by distillation. Same principle as distilling alcohol: heat it up and collect the water, then collect the purified acetic acid.


    8 years ago on Step 2

    Your cathode has to be more Nobel than your anode(part you are anodizing) look up Nobel chart of metals or galvanic scale. For example: if you are trying to anodize a piece of aluminum and you use a piece of zinc or magnesium for an intended cathode, your anodizing will work in the opposite direction. The further apart the two metals are in the galvanic scale the stronger the effect will be.


    Reply 7 years ago on Step 2

    Yes, you definitely know what you're talking about. I'd give you 5 thumbs up on here if I could.


    7 years ago on Step 2

    As far as using lead, I understand what they are referring to, it's about having dissimilar metals in the tanks, it's akin to the idea of electro-plating as well, a similar process.

    The reason for the use of lead is that it has a lower electrical resistance than aluminum has per centimeter and overall surface area resistance is also lower. Of course, this also differs depending on the grade of lead you're using and the other impurities found in said lead or aluminum you're using.

    If you don't wanted to use lead, you can use zinc. For example, use zinc in place of the aluminum can that was used. Also, it depends greatly on how close your object your anodizing is to your plate you have charged up inside of the jar.

    Make sure that if you do use vinegar (acetic acid) that you use white vinegar, you get better results with that, as it's more purified. If you use lemon or some other citrus fruit, which is the real citric acid, that you strain all the pulp out but slowly boil the concentration first, removing excess water, the point is this, don't make it too acidic nor too weak, it has to be just right. If you got to add water, for frack sakes, don't use tap water, you're adding impurities into your acid bath, which might neutralize the effects or give you screwy results. Make sure you use de-ionized water for this.


    7 years ago

    I have read around and seems though that 4-12 volts for a square foot of aluminum you are going to anodize. As well if you want to use something better than lemon juice or vinegar, you can use ph down pool additive, containing sodium bisulfate easier to get a hold of than battery acid (sulfuric acid)


    8 years ago on Introduction

    Interesting 'ible - I may have to try this at some point.

    If you are interested in trying other acids, I would suggest starting with citric acid. It's commercially available, cheap (£3 for 500g on e-bay), non-toxic (edible in fact) and is the main acid component of lemon juice so it should be similar to a highly purified version of what you are using now. I'll let you know how it goes if I manage to try this.




    8 years ago on Introduction

    Adding teaspoon (or more) of salt to vinegar will increase it's conductivity.

    However i am not sure if anodizing as suggested by this instructable will give you same qualities as more advanced methods... can somebody make comparison based on experiences with the two or electrochemical knowledge?


    Reply 8 years ago on Introduction

    You can use any electrolyte really. I've recently started just using plain salt again, but beware of chlorine fumes.

    Anodizing by this method will not be as good as by more advanced methods because ... it's simpler.
    For a consistent surface you need the temperature and pressure regulated, you need an even charge distribution as well. This was not taken into account in this ible because I was looking for the simplest possible method to color metal. I was seeking only porosity not durability.

    If someone finds a better method though, please tell me!


    9 years ago

    Sorry, great post!


    9 years ago

    You said if anyone knows why one site recommend Lead let me know, so here it goes... Some metals are more active ( Anodic), or more likely to corrode, other metals are less likely to corrode or more noble ( cathode). When you add an electrolyte, metallic path, and a current source, a natural reaction occurs, where the more active ( anode) sacrifices itself to protect the cathode.


    9 years ago on Step 3

    Would it be possible to wrap bare copper wire around the inside of the glass jar to use as the anode? I've seen it done on a larger scale in 5 gallon buckets, but he was using industrial chemicals and it wasn't quite the "can do at home" type of set up. I only ask because I see you mention if the lemon juice turns green it means you have some copper in there somewhere, so I am guessing it's not a god idea with this particular set up (?).


    Reply 9 years ago on Step 3

    Actually, it will be fine using copper for the cathode. Just make sure that you don't end up copper plating the part (check the polarity of the wires).

    Try pickleing vinegar it is much stronger than regular table vinegar, might help...


    I would love to see posts about your experimentation with other organic acids.


    Reply 9 years ago on Introduction

    I'll let you know whit I've tried.
    I've just added Vinegar to the ible, and plan to try orange juice and some other stuff sometime soon.