Arduino Prototyping Shield on the Cheap

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Introduction: Arduino Prototyping Shield on the Cheap

Breadboards are very handy, but sometimes I just want to connect one IC or some LEDs and resistors to the controller.

My simple solution was to canibalize a cheap Breadboard to get two expandable PrototypingShields with some additional features.

What I used:
Breadboard (~3$)
2 Pieces of Veroboard (<1$)
28 PinHeader (<1$)
28 femaleConnectors (<1$)
2 Leds
1Switch
some Resistors...
and some epoxy to get it smooth and fixed

Tools:
Soldering iron
Dremel
pliers
a knife

Step 1: Soldering the Shield

Sadly the ArduinoBoard doesn't align with the standard 0.1" spacing, so it's a little tricky to get the Shield smoothly into the Arduino connectors.

Firstly I cutted the right number of pinheaders.
After putting them into the Arduino connectors, I saw the difference to my 0.1" spaced veroboard.

I bent the headers a little bit as you can see in the second picture.

Now the pins are ready to solder.

As you can see in Pic4 I cutted the veroboard with one hole space to the border, to solder the female connectors later.

Step 2: Cut the Breadboard

Next step was to cut the breadboard.
Very stinky, but effective with a Dremel on 10.000rpm :)

I removed one row of the power connectors for the right size.
It fits just perfect!

I also made a little cut on the veroboard to disconnect the pins.

Step 3: Isolate and Glue the Breadboard

I used a thin coat of 5min epoxy to isolate the bottom side of the breadboard.

After 5 minutes I did the same again and glued the breadboard to the veroboard.

Step 4: Adding Some Features

I wanted to have the same nice features as the Arduino has.
- Led as power indicator
- Led connected to Pin13 for debugging
- Resetswitch

The Leds are connected through a resistor to +5V and Pin13
The ResetButton is connected to Gnd and the ResetPin

I used a 820ohm resistor for small power consumption and right brightness.
I = U/R = 5V/820ohm = 6mA

I used some epoxy to cover the leds, hold the button and give the board a smooth surface.

That's it.

postscript:
Hey Mauseju... if you read this, you'll soon be the owner of the second board I just made for you ;-))

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    10 Comments

    0
    Jimmy Proton
    Jimmy Proton

    11 years ago on Step 2

    what was the width of the breadboard after you removed the power rail?

    0
    lurkingdevil
    lurkingdevil

    11 years ago on Introduction

    I have a veroboard that only has holes. Your board appears to have strips of holes connected. Mine doesn't. What can I do?

    0
    nejo0017
    nejo0017

    Reply 11 years ago on Introduction

    It's pretty much the same. The circuitBoard under the protoBoard just connects the pinHeader with the female header. So board layout doesn't matter.

    0
    lurkingdevil
    lurkingdevil

    Reply 11 years ago on Introduction

    How did you solder the male headers on the copper side of the board as in pic 4 and pic 5.

    0
    jdege
    jdege

    13 years ago on Introduction

    You can buy breadboards in this size. You don't have to cut on a larger one.

    0
    nejo0017
    nejo0017

    Reply 13 years ago on Introduction

    Thanks for your comment ! But the small ones are about 5$. I can get 3 small ones out of this 3$ breadboard. Regards, jo

    0
    FallenSub
    FallenSub

    Reply 13 years ago on Introduction

    Eh, damn, one big breadboard like yours costs 17$ in my country -_-

    0
    Jodex
    Jodex

    Reply 12 years ago on Introduction

    Here in Finland they don't even sell those mini breadboards. And maybe the cheapest one is about 7€ witch is about 10$.. =/

    0
    ElectronMad
    ElectronMad

    Reply 13 years ago on Introduction

    nah if you'r in seed studio its about 3 bucks and if u buy a bulk pack its like 1$ each. ANYWAY NICE instructable... :) good job