Introduction: Armour Making
Armor is an indispensable defensive device in ancient wars. I have great interest in it since I was a little kid. Now I have designed and restored an ancient armor system by adding some modern aesthetic elements.
Step 1: Armor Plates
After doing research on ancient armors in Chinese and foreign history, I designed a 13-hole plate for my armor, and send the design to a PUNCH METAL factory to have pieces made.It's made of steel plate.
Step 2: Connecting Plates
I tried using different materials to connect the plates, and finally decited to use Lynon boot laces, because the size is suitable for the holes and they are durable.
Step 3: Making Arm Defence
In the making of the arm defences, the edges of each plate are overlapped from the middle to both sides, and the number of plate diminishes from the shoulder down to the arms.
Step 4: Designing the Lining of the Shoulder
I designed a leather lining for the shouder part, which can distribute the weight of the whole armor, and make it more stable and comfortable when wearing it
Step 5: Making the Collar
I used a kind of machenic device (see the photo) to bend each plate to form different curves, serving the purpose of the collar part.
Step 6: The Effects of Putting the Collar and Arm Defence Together
Step 7: Back Part
The back of the armor is carefully designed to have a slim shape which embodied the modern aesthetic effect
Step 8: Lower Part
When the waist part was finished, I started to make the lower part of the armor in a enlarged way
Step 9: Belt
I used genuine leather to make the belt and the attached leather boxes. On the belt, I nailed some copper dots to produce shining effects, which was based on the research on the armor belts from Chinese Liao, Jin Periods and Yuan Dynasty.
Step 10: Lower Arm Defence
The lower arm defences were made of genuine leather, carving pattern and then dye black.
Step 11: Sword
I used a sword in Tang Dynasty style for my armor system, while the shell of the sword is in Japanese style. The shell was painted by using Japanese Maki-e technique, adding some gold powder into the refined Chinese lacquer paint. When the paint got dried, I hand glassed the sword shell. The pattern of the cotton belt is similiar to the belt of the sword from Tang Dynasty collected in Shosoin of Japan.
Step 12: Archery System----Bow-case
The archery system is in Tibetan style.
Step 13: Archery System----Arrow-case
There are holes in the inside of the arrow case which are made of leather belts to fix the arrows when putting inside.
165 Comments
7 years ago on Introduction
for those who insist on saying he overlapped them backwards....NO, HE DIDN'T! a simple google search on antique lamellar armour will prove that, for the majority of lamellar pictured is laced together this way.
Reply 7 years ago on Introduction
I am sure the author studied ancient armour deeper than the average commentor. I guess the comments come from a gut feeling that the sword blows would come mostly from above.
But layering the plates the other way around would seriously restrict movements, especially around the shoulder
Reply 7 years ago on Introduction
if there was any restriction, japanes sode would have never been laced together like they were. they were done the exact same way. restriction doesn't come from the overlap method, but how tight they plates are laced together. i can attest to that with the experiments i've done with riveted scale.
as regard to sword blows? there's more power in an upward thrust due to body mechanics. when the wrist is twisted to bring the sword tip down, it torques the shoulder to the inside and reduces how much power can be transmitted. "gut feelings" are irrelevant.
Reply 7 years ago on Introduction
YES!!!!!!!YOU GET IT!!
Reply 7 years ago on Introduction
*smiles and bows*
Reply 7 years ago
Smiles and bows back to you:)
Reply 7 years ago on Introduction
not entirely true - overlapping direction differed depending on location on the body, and what type of soldier was wearing it
Reply 7 years ago
Exactly right!
Reply 7 years ago on Introduction
Aye, this particular design will work well while on horseback and against spearmen and slicing swords (vs hacking swords and axes).
The traditional Western Lamellar/scale is more for foot and arrow protection and designed for use with a shield/planc.
Reply 7 years ago on Introduction
Thank you! So many armchair armorsmiths here.
Reply 7 years ago
Thank you so much for the encouragement!
7 years ago on Introduction
Heads up to the author and readers, this armor is called lamellar and was used across Asia and the Middle East for much of the Medieval Period. It mainly replaced the use of archaic "scale" armor. Hopefully this helps some people out :)
Reply 7 years ago
Thank you very much for the information! Very informative! You are an expert in this field? May I ask?
Reply 7 years ago on Introduction
Scale is something else entirely from lamellar. Think Lorica Plumata. Scale doesn't leave the binding cord (or chain) exposed like lamellar armor does. They are quite different in their origins and cultures that used them (mostly). It was also used well outside the European Medieval Period (in both directions) by different cultures.
5 years ago
Hello. i am going to make an armour, and i would like to know what are the Size of the lamellar plates on yours please?
Reply 9 months ago
Looks to be about 100 by 30 millimeters assuming the holes in the plate are 5 millimeters in diameter.
Question 5 years ago on Step 2
Hello. i am going to make an armour, and i would like to know what are the Size of the lamellar plates on yours please?
Answer 9 months ago
Looks to be about 100 by 30 millimeters assuming the holes in the plate are 5 millimeters in diameter.
Question 1 year ago on Step 6
how did you connect the shoulders to the chest peice?
Question 2 years ago on Introduction
Excellent work! Is it historically accurate? I know it's impossible to be 100% historically accurate, but would like to know how close you got it. Also, what armor is this based off of?