The AtariPunkr Kit sold by http://ubld.it is an updated take on the classic stepped tone generator also known as an Atari Punk Console. The additions include adding a LFO, 7 bit binary counter, and more.

Be sure to check out the video for a demo.

Powered by:
9V Battery

Outputs:

Mylar Speaker (Included) Stereo Output (3.5mm Jack)

Step 1: Check the BOM (Bill of Materials)

The first step in building any kit is to identify and count all the pieces that come with the kit. Nothing is more frustrating than getting all the way to the end of a build only to find out that something is missing. Here's a list of what's included.

B1 - 9V Battery Holder
C1, C5, C6 - 0.1uF 50V Disc Capacitor
C2 - 220uF 25V Electrolytic Capacitor
C3 - 0.01uF 50V Disc Capacitor
C4 - 10uF 25V Electrolytic Capacitor
D1, D2, D3 - 3mm Green LED
J1 - 2 Pole 5mm Terminal Block
R1, R4, R8 - 100K Ohm Linear Potentiometer
R2, R5 - 2.2K Ohm 1/4 W Resistor
R3, R7, R9, R11,R14,R15 - 1K 1/4W Resistor
R10 - 10K 1/4W Resistor
R12 - 1K Ohm Linear Potentiometer
R13 - 4.7K Ohm 1/4W Resistor
U1 - 556 Timer
U2 - CD402BCN Binary Counter
U3 - 8 Position Dip Switch
U4 - 555 Timer
U5 - 1/8” (3.5mm) Stereo Jack
U6 - Momentary Tactile Switch
U7 - 1P3T Switch (off – on – button)
Speaker - 1W Mylar Speaker
Tape - Double Sided Tape 2 2

Step 2: Inserting the First Components

Before we locate the first component let’s take a minute to review the proper way to insert and solder the components to your circuit board. As shown in the illustration above first bend the component leads and insert the component into the circuit board and then bend the leads slightly to hold the component in place. Finally, flip the board and solder the component in place.

The first components to locate is are two 2.2k Ohm ¼ Watt Resistors (line #9). Solder the 2.2k Ohm ¼ Watt Resistors into R2 and R5.

Axial Lead Resistors such as the ones used in this kit are color coded. Compare the resistor you are installing to the images shown in each step. Also double check the values with a multimeter on the ohm setting.

Step 3: Insert the 1K Ohm Resistors

Locate six 1k Ohm ¼ Watt Resistors (line #10) and Solder them into R3, R7, R9, R11, R14, and R15.

Take pride in your work. Take your time to bend all the components leads to 90 degree angles using needle nose pliers.

Step 4: Insert the 10k Ohm Resistor

Locate one 10K Ohm ¼ Watt Resistors (line #11) and Solder it into R10.

It’s not necessary for resistors, but inserting them all in the same direction will make your board look that much better. Use the last band (tolerance band) as a reference for the orientation.

Step 5: Insert the 4.7k Ohm Resistor

Locate one 4.7k Ohm ¼ Watt Resistor (line #13) and Solder it into R13.

For better looking solder joints use Kester #2331-ZX water soluble flux pen on every pad before applying solder. Flux removes oxidation and allows heat to transfer from your iron to the pad.

Step 6: Insert .1uF 50V Ceramic Capacitors

Locate three .1uF 50V Disc Capacitors (line #2) and solder them into C1, C5, and C6.

Ceramic capacitors are not polarized so orientation doesn't matter.

Step 7: Insert the .01uF 50V Capacitor

Locate one .01uF 50V Disc Capacitor (line #4) and Solder it into C3.

Capacitors store an electrical charge much like your body builds and stores static. It’s also good to know that since a capacitor takes time to charge and discharge it’s said that it opposes changes in voltage.

Step 8: Insert the 3mm Green LEDs

Locate three 3mm Green LEDs (line #6) and solder them into D1, D2, and D3. Pay attention to the orientation. The long leg is positive.

Diodes are polarized. The long leg of this LED is the positive (Cathode) and the short leg is negative (Anode).

Step 9: Insert the 556 Timer

Locate one 556 Timer (line #14) and solder it into U1.

Pin one of the IC is marked with a small indentation in the package. Orient the package indentation with the silkscreen indentation

Step 10: Insert the CD4024BCN

Locate one CD4024BCN (line #15) and solder it into U2.

U2 is a 7-Stage ripple-carry binary counter which acts like a sequencer for this project.

Step 11: Insert the 555 Timer

Locate one 555 Timer (line #16) and solder it into U4.

The 555 Timer is a iconic integrated circuit which is used in many beginner electronic circuits. Take some time and do a little homework on this IC.

Step 12: Insert the 1/8" (3.5mm) Stereo Jack

Locate one 1/8” (3mm) Stereo Jack (line #17) and solder it into the location marked AUDIO (U5)

Unplug the Mylar Speaker while using the Stereo Output Jack.

The stereo jack provides an output which can be fed into an Audio Amplifier. You are not limited to using the included Mylar speaker. Disconnect the Mylar speaker when using the AUDIO stereo out jack.

Step 13: Insert the 2 Pole 5mm Terminal Block

Locate one 2 Pole 5mm Terminal Block (line #7) and solder it into the location marked SPEAKER (J1)

Step 14: Insert the 220uF 25V Electrolytic Capacitor

Locate one 220uF 25V Electrolytic Capacitor (line #3) and solder it into C2.

Step 15: Insert 10uF 25V Electrolytic Capacitor

Locate one 10uF 25V Electrolytic Capacitor (line #5) and solder it into C4.

Step 16: Stop and Clean the PCB

Now is a good time to clean the PCB.

If you have been follow along with this tutorial then you have inserted all of the components which can be completely submerged in Alcohol and/or Water. Using a toothbrush and Isopropyl or Denatured Alcohol carefully clean away solder flux residue. Then rinse the board under water and continue scrubbing with the toothbrush. Finally, use compressed air or a hair dryer to blow the board dry. Repeat as needed until you have a clean PCB.

Step 17: Insert the Momentary Tactile Switch

Locate one Momentary Tactile Switch (line #18) and solder it into U6.

Step 18: Insert the 1P3T Switch

Locate one 1P3T Switch (off-on-button) (line #19) and solder it into U7.

The 1P3T Switch has 3 positions. Off turns the device completely off. On provides continuous audio. And Button provides audio only when the U6 Momentary Switch is pressed.

Step 19: Insert the 8 Position Dip Switch

Locate one 8 Position Dip Switch (Line 16) and solder it into U3.

The 8 Position Dip Switch feeds the inputs of the 7-Stage Ripple-Carry Binary Counter (U2).

Step 20: Insert the 100k Ohm Linear Potentiometer

Locate three 100k Ohm Linear Potentiometers (Line 8) and solder them into R1, R4, and R8.

Step 21: Insert the 1k Ohm Linear Potentiometer

Locate three 1k Ohm Linear Potentiometers (Line 12) and solder it into R12.

Step 22: Insert the 9V Battery Holder

Locate one 9V Battery Holder (Line 1).

Install the Battery Holder at B1 using the double sided tape. Cut the wires long enough to reach the + and – solder holes . Save the scrap wires as you will need them for the Mylar Speaker in a later step.

Warning: Make sure your battery is good. A low battery may fool you into thinking you did something wrong during the assembly.

Step 23: Solder Wire on the Mylar Speaker

Solder the scrap wire (from the previous step) to the Mylar Speaker as shown. Polarity does not matter.

Step 24: Final Assembly

Place the switch in the off position and Insert a 9V Battery and place the speaker on the battery using double sided sticky tape to secure it. Finally insert the wires from the speaker into the 2 pole terminal as shown.

Your final assembly should look like the above photo. Double check all polarized component orientations before powering.

Visit the Community Support Forums:

http://ubld.it/punkr

Introduction: AtariPunkr Kit Assembly