Automated Traffic Control Device

Introduction: Automated Traffic Control Device

  • Warning: Before starting the building process make sure to wear proper PPE and to follow safety regulations by OSHA. Wear safety equipment such as safety glasses, earplugs, and impact gloves.

Parts Required:

1" x 1" square pipe - 5

10" wheel - 2

Solid rod 5/8" x 36'' - 1

Pillow block bearings 5/8" - 2

Weldable sheet metal plate 24”x 48” 1 1/2" - 1

Hitch pins - 4

25 ft long hose - 1

Pressure sensor - 1

Arduino relay - 2

Arduino mega 2560 rev 31 - 1

Ultrasonic range finder - 1

DC gear motor - 1

12 Pack D Ring Tie Down Anchors Lashing Rings - 1

Cartman 1" x 12' Lashing Straps - 1

1 ½ inch PVC pipe 10ft long - 1

2 inch conduit pipe 8' long - 1

2 1/2" conduit pipe 8' long - 1

3" conduit pipe 8' long - 1

Overlays Light Gels Transparency Color Film - 1

AISEY 2" X 30ft Reflective Safety Tape - 1

Bonlux 3W Side-Pin G4 LED Light Bulb - 1

Steel Bowls - 2

72x36 in twinwall plastic sheet - 1

XT90 Bullet Connectors 10 pack - 1

Velcro Strips 4 pack - 1

Liteway 10 way fuse box - 1

16 gauge silicone electric wire - 1

Camco step mounts - 2

Hillman stabilizer legs - 2

3/4" W x 1/2" H x 4ft aluminum offset angle - 4

GF piping systems PVC Pipe fitting (flange) - 1

Oatey OVC Flange - 1

Duracell Ultra 12V Battery-1

Step 1: Cut Conduit Pipes

Use a table saw to cut conduit pipes. Make sure to cut the pipes straight.

The 3" diameter conduit pipe should be cut down to 27", the 2.5" diameter conduit pipe should be cut down to 28", and the 2" diameter conduit pipe should be cut down to 29". Proceed to break off sharp edges using a file.

Step 2: Drill Holes in Conduit Pipes

Secure conduit pipes to ensure that no moving occurs when drilling. Once secure, drill 0.50" holes on both ends of each conduit pipe.

On the 3" conduit pipe, drill a 0.50" diameter hole 0.50" from the closest edge of the pole. That end of the pole will connect to the base flange. On the opposite end of the 3" diameter conduit pipe, drill a 0.50" diameter hole 1.50" from the edge of the pole. On the 2.5" conduit pipe, drill two 0.50" diameter holes on opposites ends of the poles with each hole being 1.5" from the closest edge. On the 2" conduit pipe, drill two 0.50" diameter holes on opposites ends of the poles with each hole being 1.5" from the closest edge. Proceed to break off sharp edges using a file after drilling process.

Note:

All holes should be drilled through the entire pipe resulting in 4 individual holes in each pipe.

Step 3: Cut 1" X 1" Square Pipe

Use a drop saw the cut the 1" x 1" square pipe into eleven pieces.

Three 48" pieces and eight 10.5" pieces.

Break off sharp edges using a grinder or a meta file.

Step 4: Construct Base Frame

Arrange pieces as shown in the diagram above. Once the pieces have been arranged, weld in place. Make sure to clamp pieces together during welding and grind off excess metal.

Step 5: Drill Holes for Base Flange

In order to secure the base flange you will need to drill four 0.25" diameter holes. Two 0.25" diameter holes will be located on the center 48" square pipe and one 0.25" diameter hole will be located on each the 10.5" square pipes located perpendicular to the center 48" pipe.

Locate the 10.5" square pipe is a distance of 12" from the 24.75" edge of the frame. Once located, measure a distance of 9.37" starting at the outer edge of the 48" square pipe that it is welded to. That will be the location of your first hole.

Locate the second 10.5" square pipe is a distance of 12" from the 24.75" edge of the frame. Once located, measure a distance of 9.37" starting at the outer edge of the 48" square pipe that it is welded to. That will be the location of your second hole.

Locate the 24.75" frame edge that is closest to the holes that were previously drilled. Locate the center 48" square pipe at that edge and measure a distance of 8.44" starting at the outer edge of the center 48" square pipe. This will be the location of the third hole.

Locate the 24.75" frame edge that is farthest from the holes that were previously drilled. Locate the center 48" square pipe at that edge and measure a distance of 33.55"" starting at the outer edge of the center 48" square pipe. This will be the location of the fourth hole.

Step 6: Drill Holes for the Base

Perimeter Holes: 8 Holes

Place the 24" x 48" weldable sheet metal onto the previously constructed base frame. Ensure that the edges of the sheet metal are lined up evenly with the outer edges of the base frame. Use clamps so secure the sheet metal to the base plate. Once secured, drill eight 0.25" holes that are 0.50" from the outer edge of the base plate.

Holes drilled on the 48" edge of the base should all be 23.50" apart.

Holes drilled on the 23.75" edge of the base should all be 11.88" apart

Secure all perimeter holes with bolts, washers, and nuts.

Base Flange Holes: 4 Holes

Locate the section of the weldable sheet metal that is located directly above the base flange holes that were previously drilled into the 1" x "1 square pipes of the metal frame. Ensure that the weldable sheet metal is still securely fastened to the base frame then flip the base over so the base flange holes that were drilled into the metal frame are visible. Use the previously drilled flange holes to guide the drill trough both the previously drilled flange hole in the base frame and the weldable sheet metal. Repeat for all four flange holes.

Step 7: Attach Base Flange and D-Rings

Follow the engineering drawings for hole locations on the base.

Drill a total of 16 holes to .190" in diameter.

Make sure to break off sharp edges after completing the drilling process.

Attach all 16 d-ring anchors to the base using .190" screws and nuts. Use a screw driver and to 1/4 socket in a ratchet to tightened nuts.

Install the base flange using 4 .250" screws, washers, and nuts. Tightened all 4 screws using a screw driver and 1/4 socket in a ratchet to secure flange to the base.

Step 8: Install Bearings, Axle, and Wheels

Use engineering drawing provided for proper location of the wheel bearings in frame then proceed to weld bearings to the frame.

Insert axle into bearings and place wheels on either side butted up to bearings. Measure appropriate length for axle so no more than 1" of bearing is extruding from wheel on either side. Cut to this length.

Tighten the screw with an Allen wrench located on each bearing to secure axle.

Proceed to secure the wheels to the axle by putting a hose clamp on the axle butted up to the wheel and tightening it. Make sure all the screws are properly tightened.

Step 9: Attach Base Leg

There are two holes already made into the legs. Position the legs as shown with the hole closest to the pivot point lined up with the hole already in the frame. Unscrew the bolts in the frame in these locations and attach the legs.

Line up the legs with the frame so the bottom hole is centered on the square tubing. Secure in this location with a self tapping screw.

Step 10: Build the Frame for the Lights:

The frame for the light box is to be made up of aluminum angle bar and nickel screws. Cut four 20", six 10.25" inch and four 5" lengths from the aluminum bar.

Create a large rectangle with two 20" and two 10.25" pieces. Make sure the L is facing inward on all pieces and that they overlap. Mark the center of each corner where the pieces and drill 1/16" holes. Bolt together. Repeat this to form the front and back of the frame.

Attach the two rectangles using the four 5" length pieces. About 3" down from the top and bottom of each side of the rectangles, mark the center and drill 1/16" hole. Place the 5" length pieces under the holes so the frame buts up to either side of it. Center the hole on the piece and drill it through. Bolt together.

On the front of the frame, mark the center line of the 20" pieces. Place the remaining two 10.25" pieces with them overlapping the frame and butted together along the center line. Mark the centers where they overlap and drill 1/16" holes. Bolt together. These will support the bowls.

Step 11: Attaching the Lights to the Frame

Drill two holes into the center of the lip of the stainless steel bowls. The holes should be directly across from each other.

Drill 0.5" holes in one side of the bowl parallel to the previous holes. Theses will be used later for wire access.

Place the bowls in the frame with the lip resting on the bars as shown.

Center the drilled holes on the 10.25" frame pieces and drill the holes through.

Bolt together.

Step 12: Assembling the Light Box Walls.

Cut corrugated plastic sheet to match the dimensions of all sides of the light box frame. Two 10.25" x 20", two 10.75" x 5.5", and two 20" x 5.5" pieces.

On one of the 10.25" x 20" pieces cut holes for the lights. Mark the center line of each bowl and use this as a reference for the holes. To create a perfect circle tie a string that is 4" long to a pencil on both ends. Stick the point of one of the pencils through the marked center on the plastic. Use the other to stretch the string to its full length, ensuring the first pencil remains straight, and draw a line.

Spray paint the cut plastic pieces yellow.

Cut red and yellow transparent film into 9" squares. Place the film on the back of the plastic so its centered over the holes and hot glue the edges to it. Make sure the red film is on top.

Poke holes in the plastic in the spots designated on the drawing above. Line the pieces up with the frame and drill through the holes into the frame with self tapping screws.

Step 13: Light Box Electronics Installation

Remove the front of the Light Box. Take 16 gauge wire and measure from the center of each bowl to at least three inches below the box. Cut the wire to this length. Solder one end of these wires to the bullet connector and the other to the LED. Do this for both LED's.

Step 14: Motor Mount Construction

Cut steel plate into a 11" x 4" rectangle.

Mark 3.5" from each side of the rectangle and bend along those lines to form a U shape.

Mark sides of the bent rectangle 2" from the bottom of the U towards the top in the center. Drill 0.5" holes. These will be used to attach mount to the tower.

Cut 7" x 4" rectangle from steel plate. Measure 4" from one side and bend along this line into L shape. On 3" side mark two holes, each 1/2" from either side on end of L. Drill 1/8" holes in these locations.

On 4" side of L mark the center of plate and drill a 1/2" hole. 1" down mark another hole location and drill the same size. Mark two more holes, 45 degrees in each direction and 1" away from the center hole and drill the same size.

Bolt motor to L plate and L plate to U plate as shown.

Cut 4" x 8" rectangle from steel plate. Drill a 0.5" hole 2" from the bottom and 1.5" from the side. On the other end of the rectangle drill a 0.5" hole 2" from the bottom and 1" from the side. 2" to the right of this hole drill another of the same size as shown. Mount to motor as shown.

Step 15: Mount Arm to Motor

Drill 0.5" holes through pvc pipe as shown. One hole 1" from end and the other 3" from end. Bolt pvc pipe to motor mount as shown.

Step 16: Mount Electrical Box

Remove lid from electrical box and locate two holes already drilled along center for mounting. Align these holes up on top of the base along the axle and drill through using self tapping screws to secure.

Step 17: Set Up Electrical Box

Lay out electrical components in the orientation shown. Components included should be breadboard, arduino board, fuse box, battery, relay, and pressure sensor.

Put Velcro on the back of each piece and in the bottom of the box for the desired orientation. Mount each piece to the box using the Velcro and ensure they are secured snugly.

Step 18: Running Wires

Take 16 gauge wire and place one end at the rear of the base. Ensure the wire runs straight along the base and buts up against the bottom of the tower before running up it. Measure wire to the desired height to reach the motor and cut. Repeat this process twice more for the two LED lights. Ensure the wire is cut slightly long just in case of mistakes. Solder one end of each of these wires to the bullet connectors, keeping in mind it is the correct end to connect with the already existing connections on the light and motor.

Step 19: Cut Straps

Position all poles (telescoped inside each other) and light on the base between the ring mounts. Unwind straps and run them through the rings and around the objects in an x orientation as shown above. Run straps through metal end and tighten before cutting to appropriate length leaving approximately a foot of slack.

Step 20: Operation & Setup

1 - Place device in desired location and pull down legs making sure they are fully extended.

2 - Unstrap light and poles from the base and set aside.

3 - Keeping all 3 poles together, place bottom of largest pole onto mounting flange and secure in place.

4 - Mount light onto smallest pole and secure.

5 - Lift smallest pole up until holes align with next pole and pin in place to secure.

6 - Lift middle pole until holes line up with large pole and secure with pin.

7 - Line up motor mount with holes in large pole and pin in place, ensuring it is facing the correct direction. Adjust arm to horizontal orientation.

8 - Connect wires from electrical box to both lights and motor.

9 - Run rubber tube across the road.

10 - Plug in power source to Arduino board to begin the operation of the device.

11 - The yellow light will blink twice before operation begins to ensure connections were made appropriately.

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    Comments

    0
    Penolopy Bulnick
    Penolopy Bulnick

    1 year ago

    This looks like a fun project, what did you make it for?

    Do you have a video showing how it works?