Introduction: BTS- the Spunky Monkeys Submarine


5’6” x 1/2” of PVC pipe at the most

3 T-pieces

2 cross pieces

6 elbows

3 motors

3 switches

2 PVC pipe caps

40’ of internet cable

20 Zip ties/Cable ties

1 PVC pipe insulation

1 soldering Iron

1 PVC pipe cutter

Wire Stripper

Safety goggles

Tape measure/Something to measure with


Step 1: Cut List for the Body of the Sub

PVC Pipe:

3 8 Inch

4 6 Inch

4 3 Inch

Step 2: Making Your Cuts for the Submarine

To cut your pipe down you'll need a:

Tpe measure

Pipe cutters

Your cut list

Black marker

Step One: You measure the pipe out the amount you need.

Step Two: Mark the length you need.

Step Three: Unlock your pipe cutters.

Step Four: Squeeze the cutters until they all the way through the pipe.

Step Five: Repeat as necessary.

Step 3: 2 Solid Sides

To put together one side of your sub you will need:

4 elbows

1 PVC pipe 8" long

2 PVC pipe 3" long

1 Cross piece

Step One: Put one elbow on one end of your 8" pipe.

Step Two: Put your second elbow on the opposite end of your 8" PVC with the first elbow.

Step Three: Put both of your 3" long pieces on the sides of the cross, so it looks like one long piece going through.

Step Four: Put 2 elbows on the ends of the 3" pieces.

Step 4: Conjoined Sides

What you need:

1 T piece

2 6" pieces of pipe

Step One: If you hold the T piece like a capital T you will see the continuous top part that is where you stick one of the 6" pieces.

Step Two: Stick the other 6" piece in the still open side on the top part of the T.

Step Three: You will need to repeat this step because you need two of the conjoined parts for the sub.

Step 5: Joining the Conjoined Sides

What you need:

2 4" of pipe pieces

1 Cross piece

2 Conjoined Pieces (the two from the step before)

Step One: Set the two conjoined pieces on the table with the bottom part of the T's facing each other (Think of an H).

Step Two: Take one of the 4" pipe pieces and connect it to one T piece.

Step Three: Repeat step two.

Step Four: Now that both conjoined pieces have a 4" piece you are going to take your cross piece, and keeping it vertical to where you can see straight down it when it's on the table, and attach it to one of the conjoined sides.

Step Five: Once that is secure add the other conjoined side to the opposite side of the cross piece.

Step 6: Finishing the Body of the Sub

Step One: taking what you just did grab one of your two elbow pieces and stick it on top.

Step Two: Repeat that only on the other side.

Step 7: Making the Hook

What you need:

2 Elbows

2 8" PVC piece

1 Socket cap

Step One: Stick one of the elbows on the end of the 8" piece.

Step Two: Attach the 8" piece to the elbow and 8" piece you just made.

Step Three: Put your last elbow onto the end of the 8" piece with the bent portion in the air.

Step Four: Put a socket cap on the end of your elbow to seal out water

Step 8: Hook to the Body

What you need:

The body of the sub

The hook

Step One: Take the hook you just made and attach it to the bottom of the cross piece on the body of the sub.

Step 9: Foam Insulation

What you will need:

16" of Foam PVC insulation


Step One: Measure 4" of insulation out.

Step Two: Cut it with your scissors.

Step Three: Split the seam to where your insulation is open and can slide on to the PVC.

Step Four: Put the insulation right next to the T pieces leading to the hook.

Step 10: Motors

What you will need:

FastenalⓇ Petroleum wax

D.C. electric motor

Plastic motor casing

Step One: To start you are going to want to put on some latex gloves to protect your hands.

Step Two: You are going to take enough wax to make a sphere about the size of a nickel(Make 3 nickels sized spheres of wax).

Step Three: Take enough wax to make a sphere about the size of a quarter(Make 3 quarter sized spheres of wax).

Step Four: After you have 6 balls of wax(3 nickle sized and 3 quarter sized) you are going to take your plastic motor casing and put one nickel sized wax sphere inside.

Step Five: Repeat step 4 until you have a nickel sized wax sphere inside every plastic motor casing.

Step Six: Next step is to put your motor into the casings with the wax inside(The wax will waterproof the motor).

Step Seven: Then once you have a motor in each of your casings.

Step Eight: Next step is to put your motor into the casings with the wax inside(The wax will waterproof the motor). Then once you have a motor in each of your casings put the quarter sized spheres of wax on top of each of your motors Finally you can put on the top to the plastic motor casing.

Step 11: Wiring the Switches

What you will need:

40' Ethernet cable

Wire stripper

Step One: Grab a 2 foot section of Ethernet cable.

Step Two: Take approximately 3 inches of plastic off one end of the wire, exposing the 8 wires.

Step Three: Bend the brown wires back (these won’t be used) and untwist the green, orange, and blue wires.

Step Four: Now you should have 6 individual wires. 3 are solid colored (blue, green, orange)and the other 3 are striped with white.

Step Five: Get a size 26 wire stripper and strip each of these 6 wires. Only strip about one centimeter on each!

Step Six: Next you want to get a switch. This switch should have 6 connections on the back.

Step Seven: Insert each wire tip through these connections and twist the metal to ensure the connection is tight on. Make sure the solid colors are on one side while the others are on the other side.

Step Eight: Grab a soldering iron and plug it in. Make sure the iron is not near anything flammable! As the iron heats up, you may check if it's hot enough by touching the tip to a piece of solder and checking to see if it melts almost instantly. If so, you are ready to solder!

Step Nine: Before soldering, ensure the switch is being held up straight so it does not move when trying to solder the connections. A 2x4 piece of wood with one hole drilled is a perfect way of keeping it from falling, just simply place the switch knob into the hole.

Step Ten: Make sure the connections are free of clutter and you can safely touch the iron to them without burning another wire or melting the switch in the process. If all is clear, touch the soldering iron to the first connection for only a few seconds. While the iron is on the connection, touch a piece of solder to the connection and iron. Let the metal melt and collect slightly so that the connection is almost completely covered in a bead of metal. DO NOT ALLOW OTHER CONNECTIONS TO TOUCH EACH OTHER. WARNING: WHEN TOUCHING THE SOLDERING IRON TO THE CONNECTION, DO NOT ALLOW THIS TO PROLONG FOR LONGER THAN 5 SECONDS OR ELSE THE SWITCH COULD MELT, CAUSING THE SWITCH TO LONGER WORK.

Step Eleven: Continue this procedure on each of the 6 connections until each one has a small bead of metal holding the wire and connection together.

Step 12: Controller

What you need:

1 piece of plywood

1 speed square

1 Marker

1 drill

1/4" Drill bit

6" of insulation

3 switches wired up

1 Power saw

Step One: Measure 3" up from the base of your piece of plywood and mark it.

Step Two: Measure from the 3" mark 7" across.

Step Three: Use the power saw to cut these marks.

Step Four: You should have a rectangular piece of plywood now, 7"x 3", measure across the middle of the board make a mark at 4 1/2", 3 1/2", 5 1/2".

Step Five: Use you 1/4" size drill bit and attach it to the drill, drill a hole where each mark is.

Step Six: With your three switches remove the washer and nut leave one nut on.

Step Seven: Put the board on top of the switch with a tiny bit of thread/swirly part showing.

Step Eight: Put the washer then the nut back on and tighten.

Step Nine: Cut your 6" piece of insulation in half.

Step Ten: Along the seam split it there and tape them onto the sides of your controller.

Step Eleven (Optional): Label what switch does what if you want to.