Introduction: Ballet Barre
When a friend decided to sponsor "Barre" exercise classes at her Yoga studio, Sacred Rivers Yoga in Connecticut, we started to explore options for acquiring Ballet barres. Part of the decision to create them rather than buy them was cost. The other issue was the need to remove them from the wall or floor in order to free that space for yoga classes. There were some "portable" free-standing barres, mostly made from tubular steel or PVC pipes. I didn't find any wall mounts that were readily removable.
I don't have the tools or desire to work with tubular steel, and wood is heavy, so I had to consider how to keep it maneuverable.
Step 1: Materials
Two 8' 4x4, cut in half...then I cut 9" off each 4' piece to make the blocks with holes in them for pole stowage.
(I considered using a baluster, as pictured above, but it would have almost doubled the cost of the project, so I stuck with 4x4's.)
Two 4' stair treads cut in half for the bases
Rubber "feet" for the bases.
Four 8' lengths of stair railing.
stair railing brackets
"Rosettes" for mounting the railing brackets
I stained the wood with ECOS Woodshield Stain and Varnish...Organic, no VOC, being mindful of the pranayama of the studio. (...though I am mindful of that anywhere I work.)
Step 2: Brackets
So the design "hinges" upon easy dismantling.
I used the rosettes to mount the bracket for the hand railing (the "barre").
On the back of the rosette, I mounted a hinge, the pointed door wing of which is to insert into the receptacle.
The "receptacle" consists of two T-plates separated by washers as spacers to accommodate the thickness of the hinge. Whether mounted on the upright 4x4, or on a rosette mounted on the wall, it will receive the hinge/bracket contraption that holds the barre.
The barre can be dropped into place, and removed just as easily.
Step 3: Assembly
I put rubber feet on the bottom to protect the floor and to provide clearance for the central bolt attaching the upright.
The 9" 4x4 block is attached to the base, and accommodates the wheels.
When the upright is tipped, the wheels will contact the ground, allowing the base to be wheeled away easily, without lifting.
The holes in the block were created to accommodate the barres, for storing. I don't expect the base with the 8' barres inserted vertically to be free-standing. The place where they will be stored will allow them to be tethered, above.
The edges of the bases and the poles were painted black because they were unfinished edges, and I am sloppy with stain.
We completed it last night, and the first class is being held this morning.