Bandsaw Boxes Made Easy

Intro: Bandsaw Boxes Made Easy

Warning Bandsaw Box making can be addictive.

However they are easy to create and make great gifts for storing little trinkets. Have Fun!

I want to thank Steve Ramsey at WoodworkingForMereMortals.com for his tutorial video that got me started in the box making world 

STEP 1: Design Your Creation

Design your creation. You are only limited by your imagination. Or search the web for ideas. The following box is a facsimile of a picture I found created by " Lois Keener Ventura" 

Lois Keener Ventura wrote a book on making bandsaw boxes.

This design I drew up in Sketchup (free version)

STEP 2: Prepare Your Blank

Glue up a block to fit you design – unless you keep 12/4 material around!
On this particular box I used a piece of 8/4 Walnut for the core and 2 pieces of Lace Wood for the front and back. The total block measured 3 x 6 x 11

STEP 3: Blank Clean-Up

This is not a required step, I just like to have the block squared up and clean on all sides before I head to the bandsaw.

STEP 4:

Roughly cut out your template and attach it to the blank with spray adhesive. Be sure to leave enough room to sand to your line.

At this point you are only cutting the outside of your design.

Keep in mind the smallest radius you can cut is determined by the size of your bandsaw blade. I used a 3/16 or 1/4" blade for the boxes I've made so far.

NOTE: if you fail to follow your line don't worry, just consider it a design change :)

STEP 5: Sand Your Creation

It easier to sand all of the curves now before you proceed. That way the back will be identical to the main body.

NOTE: I usually make my boxes around 3" thick so they will fit on my spindle sander!

STEP 6: Slice Off the Back

Now slice off the back of your box. Mine are around 1/4" but that's your decision.

STEP 7: Cut Your Drawers

Decide on an entrance point and cut out each drawer (In one motion if possible.)

Or if you come to a sharp point, stop your saw and back out of the cut

This box is a little different. there will be 2 entrance points. 1 will left open with the drawer exposed and the other will be closed. (see next photo)

STEP 8: Cutting the Drawer Openings

See how the middle drawer is cut out after the lower drawer is cut out,  by joining the two openings with a single kerf.

STEP 9: Closing the Gap

Here I'm gluing my lower entrance point back together.

Depending on your design it is sometimes quite a challenge to place clamps.

STEP 10: Sand Main Body

Sand all of the inside compartments where the drawers will go.

STEP 11: Sand Your Drawers

While your glue is drying you can sand the outside of your drawer body

STEP 12: Preparing Your Drawers

Now slice a front and back off your drawer bodies. Your choice for thickness

NOTE: You might want to mark your pieces in some way so you don't get the parts reversed. This will make sure the glue up goes smoother.

STEP 13: Design Your Drawer Compartment

Mark your drawer bodies with a shape that will become the inside of your drawer.

Don't make the corners to sharp, You still want to sand the inside.

STEP 14: Cut the Drawer

Follow your pattern (roughly) and remove the drawer cavities

STEP 15: Sand Drawer Curves

Before drawer assembly sand the inside of your drawers

STEP 16: Re-Assemble Your Drawers

Carefull line-up the front and back pieces of your drawers and glue them back together.

This is when you will be glad you marked your components.

STEP 17: Attach the Rear Panel

The rear panel of the main body can be attached, (actually it can be attached anytime after you glue your entrance point closed)

There will likely be a small amount of sanding along your glue line when it dries and near the entrance cut.

STEP 18: Make Your Drawer Pulls

Design and cut out your drawer pulls (if reqyuired)

These are very small pieces - use extreme caution if you use a bandsaw to cut these out.

I chose ebony pulls for this box just to accent the Lace Wood

STEP 19: Attach Your Handles

Attach your handles and your done!

STEP 20: Apply Your Finish

Finish with your favourite finish and show it off.

I hope you give these boxes a try, they are great fun to make and will make wonderful handcrafted gifts

Depending on the complexity of your design the whole project will only take 4 -5 hours. (Not counting waiting on glue to dry)

Enjoy
Bruce
(Wood Chuck)

Comments

[JanetteG4]

I just wanted to say thank you for the simple instructions I cannot wait to make a bandsaw box it’s been a long time and I got a new bands are coming this week.

[3dwoodplans]

I hope you enjoy your projects. They are only limited by the equipment you have and your imagination.
Have fun
I have a downloadable PDF that contains seven (7) assorted templates at 3dwoodworkingplans.com or go directly to the templates here: https://3dwoodworkingplans.com/products/ols/products/180-7-bandsaw-box-templates

[pdwoodwerkz]

Great design and outcome. When I make bandsaw boxes, I first put a layer of blue painters tape on the blank and then use repositionable spray to attach the pattern. First off, it is much easier to remove and leaves no residue on the wood and second, if I happen not to finish the box immediately, the residual mounting spray is not a bear to remove. Just a couple of thoughts. Ya done good!!!! :-)

[salken1hughesnet]

What kind of band saw are you using? I have trouble leveling the table on mine. I have a grizzly. Am going to purchase a different one.
Thank you
Ken

[3dwoodplans]

I use a an older Delta 14". Very easy to setup.
There should be a table adjustment on the Grizzly, just Google it.

[KellyCraig]

I bought a Carter Stabilizer for my 14" bandsaw. Rather than the stock five bearings on top and five on the bottom, it uses a single bearing on top and the blade rides in it.

The Stabilizer is a game changer for work like this. With a good blade. I get nice, square cuts on 6" cherry.

Since I have two bandsaws, I just leave the Stabilizer in place 24-7 and run either a 3/16" or 1/4" blade on it.

My Stabilizer is for a Powermatic, but they make them for nearly every 14" saw out there. Their site will tell you if they have one for your saw. If not, they'll answer your questions.

[3dwoodplans]

I bought the Carter guides years ago, so much better than the standard blocks. I never tried the small stabilizer, I've seen it used and it looks excellent. Your bandsaw boxes look great.
Glad you enjoyed the project ible
Happy Woodworking. I have some templates available on my website. 3dwoodworkingplans dot com

[KellyCraig]

Ten years or so late, but NICE job, both on the ible and the project.

[JohnM698]

Hi
Can i use Pine for this project ???

[KellyCraig]

You can use any wood you want.

[Abel9407]

Hmmmm
Cut off my drawers but now I’m cold

[MaxR102]

Your prompt reply is most welcome.

My project should be easy compared with your band-saw box.

My concerns relate to tight curves relate to the blade used.

How do I avoid:

1 Scorching the stock with a smaller (3/16ths-inch) blade's quicker heat build-up?

2 Twisting the blade?

3 Snapping the blade?

[3dwoodplans]

Some burning is unavoidable in certain wood species. As far as turning if you always keep a forward motion while making your turn your blade should not have to twist or break. It will likely just take some test cuts and practice.

[MaxR102]

How wide is bandsaw's blade's width from teeth going back to the straight edge?

How do you cut such tight curves with this blade?

[3dwoodplans]

The curves on this bandsaw box were cut with a 3/16" blade. It handles these curves easily. I'm sure it could be done with a 1/4" blade as well.

[MaxR102]

Outside curves of the piece on your foto's left are gentle. Inner curves of the middle piece are often very tight. Same for some inner curves of the piece on the right.

I am trying to fabricate a three-dimensional puzzle, better described three paras. down. I am not yet to that point. So I decided 1st to see how tightly I could cut one wavy kerf down the length of a 3" x 3" x 16" piece of basswood. The result was two long COMPLEMENTARY pieces (parted by the one wavy kerf).

My bandsaw's blade measured 1/4"-inch from tooth tips to its straight back edge. Still, I could cut no tight curves though I tried. As I tried, the blade twisted worrying me no little (as an overheated blade could snap) and the finished two lengthwise pieces showed evident scorching.

I am trying to make a three-dimensional puzzle. Before any sawing, smaller pieces of basswood must be laminated into a 9" x 9" x 16" wooden rectangular solid, because one solid piece of basswood that big would cost too much.

If I succeed, FOUR, lengthwise-wavy kerfs will cut the rectangular solid into NINE lengths. The nine lengths will fit together again as a 9" x 9" x 16" rectangular solid if the four complementary curved surfaces are matched. Each of the four corner lengths will have two wavy surfaces. Each of the four middle-outside lengths will have three wavy surfaces. The one middle piece will have four wavy surfaces. Some undulations will be tight and others will be gentle. No TWO lengthwise kerfs will be alike.

I belong to the Guild of Oregon Woodworkers (Portland). Its workshop has one bandsaw with a 1/2"-wide blade, the bandsaw I used has a blade 1/4"-wide. The Guild has another bandsaw which can take a 3/16"-wide blade.

A 3/16"-wide blade should enable kerfs with tighter curves. Yet my chief worries are that heat should build up quicker in such a narrow blade, it should scorch a lot, will twist more easily, and can more easily snap.

You can CUT THRU most of MY paras. two thru five's VERBIAGE, if you draw a simple rectangular solid, with a 9"-inch square butt end and a 16"-inch length. Then divide each of the two, seeable long ends with two long lines. These will divide the one seeable butt-end into nine equal parts. The picture will then represent a long rectangular solid divided into nine, equal, straight lengths. MY PUZZLE WILL DIFFER only by its LENGTHWISE CUTS BEING WAVY.

I know of puzzles like the one described, but not how anyone fabricated them without setting a fire or snapping a blade.

Another problem with the Guild's bandsaw is its guidepost will not open 9". I must find a bandsaw to thru material 9"-thick.

But can you advise with handling the other problems?:

1 Tight curves <-- very important. 2 Minimal scorching 3 No blade twisting 4 No blade snapping

[3dwoodplans]

Not really sure what you are trying to do, I have attached a chart that shows the minimum radius you should be able to cut for a blade of a given width.

[lucyajones]

This style of box, with its curves and multiple drawers, can seem a bit intimidating at first glance. Once you realize how simple this style of box is to make, you’re likely to start creating your own designs. And once you start, these little pieces are very addictive.

[jack.faulkner.121]

wood chuck. i looked at your website. i would like to know if these plans are step by step. i meant to the t before i buy something i got scammed once before im not looking to have it done again.

[3dwoodplans]

Jack

Thank you for your inquiry about the plans on the website.
The plans on the website are all detailed 3d graphic illustrations of a
particular project, so in answer to your questions it DOES NOT
give you step by step construction details. You do need to have a basic
woodworking background to complete any of the projects on my website.