The tools I have used:
- Circular saw
- Miter saw
- Belt sander
- Orbital sander
- Rubber mallet
- Wood clamps
- Live edge slab
- Fir square beams 69x69 mm
- Wooden dowel
- Steel strips
- Paint brush / paint roller
- Paint (matt black)
- Paint (matt clear coat)
- Wood glue
Step 1: Sketching
Step 2: Designing the Bar-table
Step 3: The Work Files
Step 4: Purchasing the Wooden Live Edge Slab
I bought this slab of Ipe wood at a local sawmill.
Ipe, also called Brazilian walnut or lapacho, is a dense and resilient wood that comes from the forests of Central and South America. Like other tropical woods, Ipe bears some unique characteristics. It's a particularly durable wood that weathers fantastically and looks beautiful.
The slab was too long for my design, so I cut off the cracked part.
Step 5: Sawing the Slab
I used an electrical circular saw to adjust the slab.
Step 6: Removing the Bark
I used several chisles and a rubber mallet to remove the bark.
I recommend to use a rubber mallet to prevent damage to your chisles, which must be sharp obviously.
Step 7: Installing the Mild Steel Bars
First I created a wooden jig to guide the router, which I used to create the slots.
I mounted the mild steel bars in the slots, to prevent the wood from cracking.
Step 8: Sanding
I used a belt sander to sand the top. I started with 80 grit and worked in steps up to 220 grit.
I used an orbital sander to sand the live edge sides, with the same grits as mentioned above.
Step 9: Sawing the Legs
Step 10: Assembling the Legs
I glued wooden dowels to cover the screws and subsequently sanded them flush with the frame.
Step 11: Painting the Legs and Constructing the Frame on Top
I had to paint the 'visible' parts three times.
So keep this in mind when you buy your paint and for your time-management!
After the paint, I added two layers of clear coat, to prevent it from damaging and to make it water resistant.
Step 12: Felt Under the Feath
Step 13: Putting on the Finish
This is a clear matt finish.