Introduction: Basic Amigurumi Body

This basic body for amigurumi can be used for any character you'd like! My favorite part about this style is that the head and body are crocheted together, so less sewing and aligning body parts. I also love using this style to make my amigurumi look a little more chibi and cute :) Keep in mind, that you can use any colors you want (my finished project is going to be Finn from The Force Awakens)

Step 1: Materials

  • Medium, worsted weight yarn for the skin (or fur), clothes, and shoes (I used brown, black and white for this project)
  • G/ 4.00 mm crochet hook
  • Stitch marker (I like to use a bobby pin)
  • Tapestry needle
  • Polyfiber filling
  • Felt or roving wool for the eyes

Step 2: Head/Body

US Abbreviations

  • sc - single crochet
  • inc - increase (2 sc in 1 stitch)
  • *dec - decrease (sc 2 stitches together)
  • blo - back loop only

*I use the invisible decrease, which I tried to show in the pictures with the teal background. To do this decrease, insert hook into the front loop (loop closest to you) of the next two stitches, yarn over and pull through both loops so that there are two loops on your hook, yarn over and pull through both loops to make a single crochet.

Start with your skin/fur color

  • RND 1: 6 sc in magic circle (6)
  • RND 2: inc around (12)
  • RND 3: (1 sc, inc) 6 times (18)
  • RND 4: (2 sc, inc) 6 times (24)
  • RND 5: (3 sc, inc) 6 times (30)
  • RND 6: (4 sc, inc) 6 times (36)
  • RND 7: (5 sc, inc) 6 times (42)
  • RND 8-14: sc around for 7 rows (42)
  • RND 15: (5 sc, dec) 6 times (36)
  • RND 16: (4 sc, dec) 6 times (30)
  • RND 17: (3 sc, dec) 6 times (24)
  • RND 18: (2sc, dec) 6 times (18)
  • RND 19: (1sc, dec) 6 times (12)

If your amigurumi is going to have clothes, now is the time to change yarn colors to the shirt/dress color. The color I used for the body was black. I also like to stuff the head a little bit at this point to make the final stuffing at the end a little easier.

  • RND 20: (1 sc, inc) 6 times (18)
  • RND 21: (2 sc, inc) 6 times (24)
  • RND 22: (3 sc, inc) 6 times (30)
  • RND 23- 28: sc around (30)

If you want your amigurumi to have different color pants, change colors at about round 24 or 25 and finish off in this color.

  • RND 29: in the blo, (3 sc, dec) 6 times (24)
  • RND 30: (crochet in both loops again), (2 sc, dec) 6 times (18)

This is probably the best point to stuff the rest of the head and the body. I like to leave the bottom flat so it sits well, so I try to slightly under stuff the body.

  • RND 31: (1 sc, dec) 6 times (12)
  • RND 32: dec around (6)
  • Finish off

Step 3: Arms

Since my amigurumi doesn't wear gloves and has long sleeves, I will be using the skin color yarn to make hands, and switch to his shirt color once his hand is big enough.

  • RND 1: 6 sc in magic circle (6)
  • RND 2: (1sc, inc) 3 times (9)
  • RND 3: sc around

I switched colors here, as shown in the pictures. If your character wears short sleeves, I would change color around RND 7.

  • RND 4-9: sc around
  • Stuff and leave a long tail for sewing

Step 4: Legs

I wanted my amigurumi to have white shoes and black pants, but for this style the legs can also be done the same way as the arms.

  • Chain 4 and turn
  • sc in 1st and 2nd chain from hook
  • sc 3 in 3rd chain from hook
  • sc in next chain
  • sc 3 in last chain
  • sc in next 3 stitches
  • sc 2 in next stitch (there should be 10 single crochets around this circle at this point)
  • in the blo, sc in next 3 stitches
  • in the blo, dec
  • in the blo, sc in next 5 stitches
  • sc around once, change colors

If your character is wearing shorts, switch to skin/fur color for 2 rows, then switch to the shorts color for the rest of the leg

  • sc around 5 times in new color
  • Stuff and leave a long tail for sewing

Step 5: Sewing the Appendages

This is always my least favorite part because it takes me forever to put the arms and legs in the correct place, even if I pin them to the body. With this style though, all sides are the same, so once you but the first arm or leg on, you can just count stitches to place the rest of them.


  • Using the tapestry needle, attach the first arm on the row where the body connects to the head. I usually sew the arms on flat instead of sewing it on around the whole arm (so you'll sew through the top and bottom of the arm)
  • Place other arm 7 stitches to the right of the 1st arm on the same row


  • I like to place the legs 1 column of stitches in front of the arms (when looking at the amigurumi from the front,go to where the front of the arm ends, move one stitch to the right for the left arm (and vice versa for the right arm) follow the stitches straight down and this is where the outside of the leg will be attached)
  • You'll notice that there is a line above the flat part of the doll where it sits, this is where I align the bottom of the leg
  • I sew around the whole leg to attach it (so I sew through all 9 stitches).
  • From top to bottom, the legs go across about 3 rows of the body. The two legs should have about 6 stitches between them in the middle of the 3 rows of the body.

Step 6: Accessories

So the last step of the basic body ended with putting the arms and legs on, however I had a finished project in mind (as I'm sure you do too). Finn's costume is fairly simple, with the most detail being in his jacket. So all I needed to do was make a jacket, hair, and eyes to finish him up. The hair and jacket were crocheted, and the eyes were needle felted and sewed onto the face. I hope you enjoyed my tutorial, and happy crafting!

Made with Yarn Contest 2016

Second Prize in the
Made with Yarn Contest 2016