Introduction: Bench Drill Made of Metal Scrap
Making your own tools has something special and using them is a greater pleasure yet. They fit our needs and have an even greater value. By thinking of this project I wanted it to be simple, easy to run, but efficient and robust. The choice by this building mode fits right into this line of thought.
The advantage of this way of doing the press vise is that it has two points of support, unlike the others that always appears on the various channels.
Step 1: Because This Way?
Observe the drawing and notice that in the usual way the mowing bar has only one point of support that is right in front. The other has two, one in the front and the other in the back so the movable part of the vise press is not loose, it is guided from the beginning to the end of the course of the threaded bar, not being necessary if placing some kind of guide on both sides and bottom. Technical data: Length: 260mm; Width: 180mm; Aperture: 150mm
Step 2: Preparing the Parts
1.1 - Cutting corner
- Cut two pieces of 260 mm corner 2 "x 1 \ 8";
- Cut two Pieces of 180mm Corner 1 ½ "x ¼";
- Mark the center of the parts and the width that will have the press;
- In each of the two pieces, make 2 holes (5, 0mm) to be made, in the two pieces, thread. This will allow you to place cheeks;
Step 3: Preparing the Parts
1.2 - Preparing the anterior and posterior supports
For didactic effect, we will consider that the front (anterior) is the one that has the arm that moves the thread.
So cut a piece of 50 mm from corner 2 "x 1/8";
Make a hole of 1/2. "
Remember this press model has two supporting points and a movable part that should be aligned for the smooth operation of the displacement mechanism. So before drilling, make a measurement to determine the height that the other point of support and the movable part will be.
The dimensions of the bearing or bushing used may influence this height of this bore.
For the posterior part cut a piece of 30mm from Corner 2 "x 1/8";
Make a hole of 1/2 "to the center;
As it can be observed in the photo, this piece of corner will be fixed a bearing or just a loofah to serve as a support for the threaded bar. If you use bearing, to facilitate eventual exchange or maintenance of the same, do not weld directly into the workpiece.
In case it was used a 12x25x8mm bearing, this is inserted into a piece of barrel and this is welded to the piece of corner. As it did not have a barrel compatible with the diameter of the bearing cut a piece of 20 mm long and cut in half in longitudinal direction, opened and adapted to the bearing
Step 4: Preparing the Parts
1.3 - Preparing the movable parts
The next part to be mounted is the nut that remained in the movable part.
I used 3 ½ nut, pinned on a piece of 40x30mm iron. This iron took advantage of the corner that had remained.
Step 5: Preparing the Parts
1.4 - Preparing the spindle
The preparation of the spindle is made in two phases.
First the side that's going to be on the back. The threaded bar is ½ "and the bearing has its internal diameter of 10mm. Reduce the diameter of the threaded bar until it snaps into the bearing.
The second, on the opposite end, you will need two nuts of ½ ". One goes threaded in the bar, even half the nut. Give a soldering point to secure the door to the bar. The second nut will be welded on top of the first and served to pass another bolt on the inside and serve to tighten and slack.
Cut in half a nut ½ ", this will be placed in the anterior part to lock the threaded bar.
Step 6: Assembly
2.1 - Mounting the fixed part
With the 3 part mounted previously we have been mounting the press.
This press was made with 180 mm wide. Previously to facilitate the welding were made marks (previous photo) with 180mm. So at the time of welding just alinharas two angles with the brands made in the corner which served on the fixed part. Just give a soldering point to end later when you have conferred if the entire structure is on the square.
The next step is to weld the support from the previous part.
Give only solder points.
Check if the pieces are aligned, in the square, and then weld definitively.
With the main part already mounted and adjusted the next step is solder the piece that has the bearing on the posterior part.
When finishing the main structure should look similar to those of the photo.
The photo shows the main frame already mounted with the threaded bar inserted in both supports.
At the time of welding the back support, pay careful attention to alignment, longitudinal and height. In case of misalignment the threaded rod will lock.
Notice in the photos that the holes were made taking care to leave them the same height. In our case it was necessary to use two pieces of 1/8 "plate so that the bar was aligned in the two points of support
Step 7: Assembly
2.2 - Mounting the moving part
Taking the other piece of corner of 1 ½ "x ¼", soldering the set of nuts previously secured.
Remembering again. It is good before making the final welding observe the height of this piece with the other support, the previous
Step 8: Assembling the Parts
The great time has come to gather all the parts and finish the project.
Finishing with enamel paint, I used my favorite color.
This bolt serves as an arm to move the spindle of the press. Insert it into the spindle and thread the nut.
1 - With the underside of the main frame facing upwards, insert the threaded bar from the front.
2-Insert the washer and thread the two pieces of the nuts that have been cut.
3 - Assemble the movable part, with the nuts facing upward, with the fixed part. Like the press is closed. Continue to thread the bar until the tip appears on the opposite side.
4 - keep threading until the tip is inserted into the bearing.
It was placed a coolant cap (blue), only to protect the bearing.
Tighten the two nuts against the washer.
Insert the bolt inside the nut that has been welded into the threaded bar.
To finish it was placed a wooden mordant, fixed with two 5.0 mm screws