Best, Easiest, and Cheapest No Weld Drift Trike
Intro: Best, Easiest, and Cheapest No Weld Drift Trike
If you haven't heard of a Drift Trike before Drift Trikes are tricycles that have slick rear wheels, normally made from a hard plastic called pvc. They are usually ridden on paved roads with a steep downhill gradient and some corners. Me and some friends stumbled across a video on youtube of people riding and wanted to try it out.
Unfortunately we had some limitations. We did not want to go out and buy a huffy slider because it was too much money and the fun is always in the build. As we began to look around for instructions all of the trikes we saw needed to use a welder which we do not have access to. So I set out to design the cheapest trike I could while using no welding and still making it function perfectly and look good.
Unfortunately we had some limitations. We did not want to go out and buy a huffy slider because it was too much money and the fun is always in the build. As we began to look around for instructions all of the trikes we saw needed to use a welder which we do not have access to. So I set out to design the cheapest trike I could while using no welding and still making it function perfectly and look good.
STEP 1: Find a Bike and Chop It
This actually was one of the harder parts just finding the right bike to use. I happened to find mine at a garage sale for $3. when selecting a bike the biggest thing is to find one long enough to fit you. After you get your bike the next step is to cut the top tube and the seat tube. Then take the rear axle bolt out of your rear wheel and put some pipe over it. This is where your rear axle will bolt to. I used 1" thick walled aluminum tube that i had laying around.
STEP 2: Grinding and Cleaning Up the Cuts
This is just a cosmetic step. I grinded down all the cuts and applied bondo to make it look like no cuts had been made.
STEP 3: Rear Axle Assembly
For my rear axle i used 3/4" square aluminum bar to keep weight down. i used a section 32" long. I then drilled and tapped a hole for my 3/8" rear wheels.
UPDATE: The 3/4" aluminum bar worked fine for me at 170 pounds but anything over that i would recommend using 1".
UPDATE: The 3/4" aluminum bar worked fine for me at 170 pounds but anything over that i would recommend using 1".
STEP 4: Rear Wheels
For my rear wheels i did not want to go out and buy green machine wheels and we had 6" PVC sewer pipe we used for snowboarding laying around. So i decided to go with a six inch rear wheel. For some reason its hard to find six inch wheels but i ended finding some on surpluscenter.com. the only problem was the PVC was 6" outer diameter not inside. so to compensate i trimed off part of the wheel using a little jig i made for the table saw. after they were trimmed i just hammered them into place.
STEP 5: Attaching the Rear Axle
For attaching my rear axle i replaced where the rear wheel bolted on with a piece of aluminum pipe. the pipe was bolted in using the existing rear wheel holes. the axle was then bolted to that pipe using U bolts.
STEP 6: Paint and Your Done
Now after a few coats of primer and some paint your ready to rock.
You may have noticed i did not mention the seat. The seat seems to be the hardest thing to find. I used a seat from an old pedal go kart, but I've heard of people using anything from tractor seats to office chairs to stadium seats.
SEAT UPDATE: I have found that seats from school chairs work very well. i sourced my new seat from an old life guard tower that was being thrown out.
You may have noticed i did not mention the seat. The seat seems to be the hardest thing to find. I used a seat from an old pedal go kart, but I've heard of people using anything from tractor seats to office chairs to stadium seats.
SEAT UPDATE: I have found that seats from school chairs work very well. i sourced my new seat from an old life guard tower that was being thrown out.
47 Comments
mcalpinconnor 4 years ago
hailfire73 7 years ago
after the build is there extra pieces and is there a place for a motor to be mounted?
Databanks 8 years ago
Damn, nice work and great recycling. The best toys are the ones you scrounged for parts & assembled yourself, huh? Plus 6" PVC is cheap so when you wear those wheels out it's easy to make more with a plain old hacksaw.
Nice thinking for the rear axle, the faster you go, the tighter it fits in. Only suggestion I can make is getting those foot stands you can get for the front wheel - somewhere to put your feet to avoid gravel rash
JacobT85 7 years ago
Is that what ur looking for?
(: (: (: (: (:
kasaasrarg 8 years ago
Can you add some photos from the underside of the Trike, beacouse from the Desctipton I don´t really unerstand the mounting of the axel and thue wood to the bike ???
It would be really nice if you helped me pls !!
TrentonRiley 8 years ago
can I get a list of materials plz? and it is very cool.
guitarshredder19 8 years ago
algviper 8 years ago
OmarK 9 years ago
nice work, nearly finished my own, just wondering what size U bolts you used and if they held strong ?
thanks
alecdisco 9 years ago
it doesn't really matter i am building my own and as long as your axel fits through and its not too sloppy you should be abel to get away with it
savageeuge 9 years ago
you could turn that into one of those cooler on wheels. Bolt the frame to the bottom of the cooler and an electric motor. And your off to the beach
dpropst 10 years ago
BikeHacker 10 years ago
Awesome
DR0PH3AD 10 years ago
Editmefree 10 years ago
kingpudge 10 years ago
bozboards 10 years ago
jacob1229 11 years ago
algviper 11 years ago
conor766 11 years ago