Introduction: Black & Decker ASI300 Replaceable Fuse Upgrade
I acquired a Black & Decker Air Station (ASI300) from a garage sale. When it was plugged in at the sale for testing, it ran for 2 seconds on AC power and stopped, seeing no fuse worried me but I tested it with the DC from my car because it is dual voltage. Upon getting home I open it up to find a fuse that is soldered to the circuit board, and MANY reviews stating the problem of the fuse blowing and needing to be returned to black and decker for service at YOUR expense for shipping... to have to happen again. also retail is $50
The solution, install a user replaceable fuse.
Radio Shack Parts:
270-0367 Panel-Mount Fuse-Holder $2.99
270-1021 Slow-Blow 1-amp fuses $2.99
18" of stranded wire, I used 12GA but 18ga would probably be acceptable
Tools:
Drill/ Dremel tool
Bits
Soldering Iron + Solder
#2 Phillips screwdriver
Step 1: Open the Unit
Using Phillips screwdriver remove the 6 screws on the bottom of the unit.
Remove the bottom piece of plastic.
Then remove the 4 screws on the side of the unit.
Remove the side, be careful not to loose the metal bar that holds the storage lid together.
Step 2: Locate Fuse, Labeled F1
Locate the fuse that is labeled F1,
Cut the wire into one 10" piece and one 8"piece.
Strip about 1/4" of wire form each end.
Solder one wire to each end of the fuse. which is in the blue box
It is ok if some solder or wire touches the diode in the brown box as they are connected by the PCB underneath, I found out the hard way after undoing my connection to check.
Step 3: Drill Hole for Fuse Holder
About 1/2" from the switch on the opposite side of the power connector, drill a 9/16" whole for the fuse holder. Make sure to secure the plastic piece as once the bit goes through it will spin.
I only had a 1/2" drill bit, and had to use a 1/8" drill bit as makeshift dremel.
SAVE YOURSELF TIME don't do what I did and Wire the circuit up all nice and working to realize you need to mount the panel fuse holder FIRST. To make the compresion ring fit flush, you will need to take a pair of needle nose pliers and break off the ridges on the inside of the unit around the area where the hole is. then tighten down the holder.
Step 4: Solder Wires to Fuse Holder
To make things easier and to keep the bottom lead from moving around, insert a fuse into the holder, and screw down.
Solder the shorter wire to the terminal on the top of the fuse holder.
Solder the longer wire to the terminal on the bottom of the fuse holder.
You will notice the heat shrink on the bottom wire, that is from me needing to splice the wire back together after having to cut it to install the fuse holder through the plastic face plate.
Step 5: Reassemble the Unit
Route the new wires between the PCB and black face plate.
Re-reattach the side panel, but don't tighten the screws until you carefully test that the AC power will work, (under the assumption that it previously didn't have a working fuse and your new fuse is now correctly installed )
Now attach, the bottom plate. and enjoy the fact that next time the fuse blows you only need to unscrew the top of the holder and replace the fuse, not disassemble the whole unit.
Thoughts:
The dual power air station is a great idea, however, they should have included a user replaceable fuse from the start. You may be able to use regular 1A fuses, but I just didn't want to waste the money if part of the cause was a surge current from the motor starting. hence slow-blow fuses being used.
Also, this was my first attempt at an instructable, any feedback would be appreciated. I know I probably should have had more photos but my phone isn't the greatest and the inside of the unit is relatively simple to understand.
32 Comments
Question 1 year ago on Step 1
Thank you for this post, I decided to undertake this project to fix my air station after it stopped working in the middle of pumping up a tire. However, it still is not working for me. When I turn on the air station the pressure gauge light turns on but I cannot get the motor to actually pump. This was my first time soldering so maybe it is my connections. I have attached some photos of what I attempted. I would be so grateful to get some feedback and advice thank you again.
2 years ago on Step 5
Thanks for the insight. Your effort with the project gave me the nudge to bother fixing mine. My airstation can run off AC, once again. Nice to not have to turn car on to put up the tires.
The ceramic fuse on the board looks like it's stamped 12 amp. Digikey sells them, but i had a 2 amp and a bulkhead fuse holder, so that is what I used in the upgrade and it has not popped yet.
Reply 2 years ago
Well I did make this at least 10yrs ago. They may have made some modifications at this point. Good to hear the premise is still useful.
5 years ago on Step 5
your pictures are not to clear and i am not sure where the fuse is. i took the bottom off and I can see the circuit board but I do not see a glass fuse. Is it underneath?
Reply 2 years ago
It's likely a ceramic fuse with F1 next to it.
12 years ago on Introduction
Hey, I just wanted to thank you for the great instructions. I just completed making the modifications to my Black and Decker Air Inflation Station that has been non-functional for a few months. Frankly, modifying it per your instructable was easier than dealing with returning it to to Black and Decker. One trip to Radio Shack and about an hour with a soldering iron and some spare wire I have around the house and I'm done! I signed up for an instructable account just so I could thank you for posting the idea. I had dreaded bypassing the clearly non-functional fuse because it was a one-time fix. It had not occurred to me that it would be so easy to install a fuse holder. Folks: if you know how to solder and have a 1/2 inch drill bit, you're all set. The circuit board can be moved a bit to make the soldering easier. Great job! Thanks!
Reply 4 years ago
Good master can,u help me for wiring diagram of this motor i buy this motor without 2 capacitor run/start capacitor..
Reply 12 years ago on Introduction
Here's a picture of what mine looks like from the outside once the fuse was installed
Reply 12 years ago on Introduction
I know it is months later, but your welcome. Thanks for posing a much clearer picture also.
5 years ago
Help! I carefully followed the instructions you provided and yet the new fuses either blew or nothing happened. The model I have has a slightly different switch wiring so I'm not sure if that's it. When I examined the PCB, I noticed some connections had been damaged. You can see from my images I've repaired them the best I can. Can someone look at what I've got and tell me what's missing? What am I doing wrong? Right now I blow fuses on AC and DC has completed stopped working.
8 years ago on Introduction
Thank you for the tip I have two to fix, I'm glad i learned how to solder 40+ years ago.
From a children author in Concord.Ca
8 years ago on Introduction
Thank you for the detailed instructions. I was able to fix mine good as new! Had it not been for my terrible soldering skills the job would have been completed in 15 mins.
13 years ago on Introduction
Good job, I would have liked to see a pic of the finished wiring at the other end as well. Good save though as you know it would have ended in the landfill!
Reply 13 years ago on Introduction
My camera sucks, actually the picture of the circuit does have the finished wiring alreay, and it is sort of a mess of wires coming off the board because the unit is sort of cool with the fact that the AC and DC each have a dedicated circuit on the board going to individual pumps. If I can borrow a decent camera that shows some detail, I definitely will get a clearer picture.
Part of this was because it was my first instructable and I decided to make it mid project I missed some pictures for steps, but I guess that is part of the learning experience. Also, haha the DC side still worked but, yeah I can see plenty of people not happy with a car powered air pump and tossing them, who knows I might be able to get a whole $20 now, or a check from Black and Decker for being awesome and fixing their horrible design.
Reply 9 years ago on Introduction
mine keeps blowing the fuse as soon as I flick the switch over to on. I can't seem to figure out why. I put a 1A and 2A and still the same issue. I plan on just wiring the 120V straight to the motor with a fuse inline bypassing the entire circuit board.
Reply 8 years ago on Introduction
If you have an Ohm meter you might want to check for a short between the hot and neutral wires in the circuit. Especially post mod you might have accidentally bridged the connection, or you might have a truly defective unit.
Also I see you commented to Nepaowl who just jumped out the fuse which works but doesn't offer the circuit protection or safety of a fuse.
8 years ago on Introduction
I did it! This DYI is still going strong in late 2014....and using similar parts up here in Canada. No Radio Shack here, but got different branded fuse holder and 1A fuse at The Source. I wouldn't fuss with "making it neater" ....just follow OP's instructions no matter how crude it looks. It all gets covered anyway! Thanks again, OP.
9 years ago on Introduction
I made it real simple I soldered a wire from one end of the fuse to the other end. It works like a charm.
Reply 9 years ago on Introduction
I wonder if this will work for a long time because if there is a short it may fry everything.
9 years ago on Introduction
Just wanted to say thanks for the upgrade instructional. I am a huge Black & Decker fan and own about everything they make. I was disappointed that my air station stopped working after only a few times of using it. I figured it was a fuse but after not being able to locate it I was ready to scrap this. I purchased a solder gun, 50x 1A quick blow fuses, and a panel mount fuse holder all for $6 bucks on eBay. The upgrade was simple and only took me about 20 minutes. Also to anyone else looking to do this, soldering is your best bet but it can be done without it. Plus the quick blow fuses and 18awg wire are working just fine for me.