Build Your Own DIY 3D-Printed Soldering Fume Extractor

15,721

268

30

Introduction: Build Your Own DIY 3D-Printed Soldering Fume Extractor

About: I am a DIY hobbyist by passion and Power Engineer by profession. Most of my works are related to Solar Energy and Arduino. Apart from Electronics I love 3D printing, Woodworking and to make crafts from used …

If you are an electronics hobbyist, soldering is essential in almost all of your project, but the smoke/fumes from burnt solder and flux isn’t something you want to breathe. It smells bad and can be very dangerous to your health but you can reduce the hazards by employing a fume extractor. Even if you only solder things once in a while, it's a good idea to have a solder fume extractor to suck in those toxic fumes.

If you want to buy a good fume extractor from the market, you have to pay more than $70. So I have made my own by using a 120mm PC cooling fan and 3D printed enclosure.

I got the inspiration from the amazing 3D printed model designed by rdmmkr. I customized the model in Autodesk Fusion 360 to fit into my own requirement. I have used a 120 x 25 mm fan whereas the original design is suitable for an 80 x 38 mm fan. I have also added a speed controller to regulate the fan speed

VIDEO TUTORIAL:

Thank You NextPCB:

This project is successfully completed because of the help and support from NextPCB. Guys if you have a PCB project, please visit their website and get exciting discounts and coupons.


Only 0$ for 5-10pcs PCB Prototypes:https://www.nextpcb.com/?code=greenenergy

Register and get $100 from NextPCB: https://www.nextpcb.com/register?code=greenenergy...

See more info about PCB Assembly Capabilities: https://www.nextpcb.com/register?code=greenenergy...

Here are mid-summer sales at NextPCB :

1. Up to 30% off for the PCB orders

2. Up to 20% off for the PCBA orders

Supplies

Components Used:

1. 12V Fan ( Amazon )

2. Speed Controller ( Amazon )

3. DC Jack ( Amazon )

4. Rocker Switch 15 x 10 mm ( Amazon )

5. 5mm LED ( Amazon )

6. Resistor - 580Ohm ( Amazon )

7. 22 AWG Wires ( Amazon )

8. Heatshrink Tube ( Amazon )

9. Threaded Heat Insert ( Amazon )

10. Activated Carbon Filter ( Amazon )

11. Double-sided Tape ( Amazon )

12. M3 x 12 Screws ( Amazon )

13. M5 x 8 Screws ( Amazon )

14. Rubber Feets ( Amazon )

Tools Used:

1. Soldering Iron ( Amazon )

2. 3D Printer ( Amazon )

3. Wire Cutter ( Amazon )

4. Wire Stripper ( Amazon )

5. Hot Air Blower ( Amazon )

Step 1: How It Works ?

The main component of this fume extractor is based on a 120 x 120 x 25 mm cooling fan. The fan sucks in the fumes from the soldering area and passes them through a layer of the activated carbon filter and cleans the odors from the air, effectively absorbs toxic gases, and provides a safe working condition.

The above image from the DIYODE article is really a nice pictorial representation of the working of the fume extractor. Thank You DIYODE for designing this picture.

Schematic Diagram:

The fan is power by a 12V DC adapter. The input power is fed into the circuit through a DC jack.

The speed controller is used to regulate the fan speed.

The 5mm LED with a current limiting resistor ( 580 Ohm ) is used to indicate the power status.

The rocker switch is connected between the DC jack and speed controller to isolate the power from the entire circuit.

Step 2: Prepare Fan Wire

I have used an Arctic F12 casing fan for this project. The fan comes with 3 wires with a connector. The wires are designated as GND, 12V, and Signal. For this project, we need only the two power wires i.e 12V and GND.

Cut the connector by using a nipper then discard the signal wire.

Strip out the insulation from the wires for connecting them to the speed controller.

Step 3: Prepare the LED

Here I have used a 5mm Red LED to indicate the availability of power. The forward voltage of a red LED is typically 1.5V to 2V, but we have to run it from 12V. This can be done by using a current limiting series resistor. The value of the resistor can be easily calculated by using this online calculator.

Trim the legs of the LED by using a nipper, the longer leg represents the positive terminal.

Solder one leg of the resistor to the positive terminal of the LED.

Solder a piece of red wire to the other leg of the resistor and black wire to the negative terminal of the LED.

Insulate the soldering joint by using the heat-shrink tube.

Step 4: Prepare the DC Jack

The DC jack is used to feed the power from the 12V adapter. Here I have used a 5.5 x 2.1 mm DC jack.

First, apply a small amount of soldering flux on the two terminals.

Solder a piece of red wire to the positive terminal ( Short leg ) and black wire to the negative terminal.

Insulate the soldering joint by using heat-shrink tubing.

Step 5: Prepare the Speed Controller

First I have tried to mount the speed controller directly onto the lid. But, unfortunately, it was not accommodated in that space. So I have removed the potentiometer from the PCB.

Desolder the potentiometer by using a desoldering pump then remove it from the PCB.

Then connect the potentiometer to the PCB through 5 wires. Insulate the soldering joints by using the heat-shrink tube.

Step 6: Enclosure Design

I have designed the enclosure in Autodesk Fusion 360. The dimensions of all the components are measured by a vernier caliper then the same were considered during the design.

The enclosure has 5 parts:

1. Body

2. Body

3. Cartridge

4. Lid

5. Fan Grill

Download the STL files from Thingiverse

Step 7: 3D Printed Enclosure

I have used my Creality CR-10 Mini 3D printer and 1.75 mm Blue and Yellow PLA filaments to print the parts. The main reason for selecting these colors is just to match my Hakko soldering station. It took me about 10 hours to print the main body and around 4 hours to print the other parts.

My settings are:

Print Speed: 60 mm/s

Layer height: 0.2mm ( 0.3 also works well)

Fill Density: 20%

Extruder Temperature: 210 deg C

Bed Temp: 55 deg C

Step 8: Prepare the Bodies

Before assembling the main body, smooth all the rough edges with sandpaper.

Place the M3 threaded insert as shown in the above picture and apply heat by using your soldering iron tip.

Step 9: Install the DC Jack

Insert the DC jack into the holes provided at the right side of the body. Then tighten the nut.

Apply a small amount of hot glue to secure it.

Step 10: Install the Fan

Insert the fan to one half of the enclosure, then attach the other side, parts should fit snugly together. Ensure that the fan is oriented correctly to suck in air from the front and push the air out the back.

After snapping together the two sides of the enclosure, pull the wires to the front as shown in the above picture.

Step 11: Prepare the Filter Cartridge

The fan used in the fume extractor will suck in toxic fumes from the soldering iron, but the exhaust will be trapped inside the room which is again harmful to health. This problem can be avoided by running the fumes through a carbon filter to neutralize them.

First I have measured the 3D printed cartridge size, then cut the carbon filter by using scissors or a box cutter. Here will use 2 pieces to improve filtration.

Finally, add the carbon filters to the cartridge one on each side, and snap it together.

Step 12: Install the Fan Grill

Attach the fan grill to the back, my fan came with a grill and (4) M5*10mm pc case mount screws so I reused them.

If you don't have the fasteners you can use super glue for a permanent joint.

Step 13: Wiring and Final Assembling

Install the speed controller, led, and switch into their respective slots in the lid. Then solder all the connections as shown in the circuit schematic.

Don't forget to use heat-shrink tubing around exposed wires and connections to insulate and protect the wires.

Connect the positive wire from the rocker switch to the DC IN + terminal on the speed controller, and the negative wire from the DC jack to the DC IN - terminal. Then connect the positive and negative wires from the fan to the MOTOR OUT + and - terminals.

Finally, add some hot glue to the switch, LED, and speed controller to hold it in place and install the lid with the two M3 screws.

Step 14: Final Testing

Now the Fume Extractor is ready for final testing. Insert the 12V DC adapter into the DC jack on the right side, then switch on the rocker switch. You will notice the LED will be turned ON, then set the fan speed to maximum by turning the potentiometer.

Place your soldering iron tip with small flux on its tip, you will notice the fumes are sucked into the fume extractor. I have placed the extractor about 10-15cm away from the soldering iron and found it works great.

The downside in this fan ( 74 CFM / 126 m³/h @ 1,350 RPM. ) has a lower CFM, meaning you'll need to keep it closer to what you're soldering. If you want to increase this distance, you may use a fan with High airflow (CFM).

DIY Summer Camp Contest

This is an entry in the
DIY Summer Camp Contest

Be the First to Share

    Recommendations

    • Fandom Contest

      Fandom Contest
    • Pets Challenge

      Pets Challenge
    • Stone, Concrete, Cement Challenge

      Stone, Concrete, Cement Challenge

    30 Comments

    1
    thepaddiscuile
    thepaddiscuile

    3 days ago

    Nice idea, but I'm afraid the carbon filter wont do much of anything.. It wouldn't be able to remove vapour from flux fumes.. Its not designed for that application, That's essentially like buying a dust mask rated for trapping airborne particles and also expecting it to remove vapor and gas fumes.. Better and much safer option is to keep the existing design and throw away the carbon filters, Add a ring protrusion or new back housing to your existing design that allows the attachment of flexible Ducting/piping.. then just buy a few meters of the ducting, attach it to the back with a big jubliee clip and then run the ducting/piping out the nearest window..

    0
    DLMarcum
    DLMarcum

    Reply 20 hours ago

    Actually, the filter is used in most fume extractor.

    0
    DLMarcum
    DLMarcum

    21 hours ago

    Good job! The Active Carbon Filter is the accepted standard for this application, good thinking. Does the speed controller vary the voltage or the current?

    1
    LarryG7
    LarryG7

    3 days ago

    There is no lead or tin vapor to worry about. They melt at the low temperatures used for soldering. They don't vaporize. That would take a much higher temperature. And lead is mostly not used in solder today.
    The base product found in conventional flux is called colophony. It is obtained when turpentine is distilled from the resin of pine trees.
    A list of the chemicals that exist in soldering fumes.
    Chlorophenol, Formaldehyde, Glutaraldehyde, Benzene, Phenol Ethanolamine, Hrdrocholoric acid, Acetaldehyde, Styrene, Toluene, Isopropanol, and Acetone.
    No single-stage filter system can remove all of these chemicals. Most studies show that a four-stage system is required with different filter mediums.
    This filter system illustrated in this instructable is just a feel-good project. It would be much better to simply open a window and evacuate the polluted air.
    However, according to industrial studies the health problems are not as bad as stated in the article. Repeated or extended soldering can lead to irritation of the nose, throat, and respiratory organs. And occupational asthma. According to these studies, there is little chance of harm from hobby soldering, unless done daily for long periods.


    0
    throbscottle
    throbscottle

    Reply 1 day ago

    The whole irritation from rosin flux thing was drafted by the HSE years ago because they thought it might happen, then they went looking for TV and radio service engineers who had been affected by it, but couldn't find any. However since it couldn't be proved either way, they maintained the advisory. But as a consequence of this red-herring, we now have rosin-free flux, which really can affect your health. All the way through stupid...

    6
    jasonk148
    jasonk148

    3 days ago

    Was just curious where you got the speed controller from as it's not listed in the components used

    0
    gnoris
    gnoris

    Reply 3 days ago

    Useful instructables, and It contributes to good health!
    The speed controller is very importan part.
    What kind of regulator is yours?
    Brushless fans do not like the pwm signal.
    (except, if it has direct pwm input, with 4 wire.)
    Because these fans' motor is not DC!
    Brushless fans have their own internal circuit.
    This regulator(in the picture) is not suitable for your fan.
    They work together for a while.
    But the regulator turns the fan circuits on/off 10.000 times per second. (PWM).
    Brushless fans can only be controlled by voltage level.
    Motherboards also control with voltage.
    Except, if the fan has direct pwm input, with 4 wire.
    But these fans also require a fixed 12 volts AND a pwm input.


    Norbert

    pwm.jpg
    0
    BTG808
    BTG808

    Reply 3 days ago

    Norbert sorry not following what you are saying is the controller used in the instructable not suitable?

    0
    gnoris
    gnoris

    Reply 1 day ago

    Your Instructable is useful and nice.
    Congratulations!

    About the speed controller.
    Your speed controller destroy the internal fan circuit.
    Your controller is for DC motors.
    Your fan is not DC! Each PC fan is BLDC motor.
    Each pc(or brushless) fan has its own internal circuit. (see the picture 1.)
    This circuit controls the motor coils.
    These internal circuits do not like the many switchings on/off.
    Your speed controller and your Fan work together for a short time.
    Your speed controller works with 10 kH PWM signal.
    It is mean: The controller turns on and off the fan's internal circuit 10.000 times per second.
    There are speed controllers for BLDC motors. (for example: picture 2.)
    These controllers work with Voltage level= about 5V for minimal speed, 12V for a maximum speed.

    EXCEPT the 4 wired(PWM ready) fans. See the picture 3.

    Norbert

    BLDC.jpgController.pngpwm_fan.jpg
    0
    jordanat2012
    jordanat2012

    Reply 3 days ago

    Not sure what he used in his project, but as long as you’re running a DC fan, you should be able to use any 10k potentiometer. Might not be the most electrically efficient way, but it should vary the speed nonetheless.

    0
    JohnC430
    JohnC430

    Reply 3 days ago

    it is just a variable dc power supply and you can get it on ebay for a few $'s

    1
    The_ccm
    The_ccm

    3 days ago

    The speed controller is useless in my opinion and can destroy internal fan logics.
    It is better to take a +12V supply, take a 7805 regulator, then you connect between +12 and +5 , which give you a 7 volts to the fan, to reduce speed and noise, if this is the goal.

    0
    manudmaker
    manudmaker

    Reply 2 days ago

    Did you mean to say 7807 regulator? beacuse the 7805 can only output 5v

    0
    The_ccm
    The_ccm

    Reply 2 days ago

    No 7805 really, then you connect fan between +12 and +5 , no ground needed. Then you have a 7V for your fan.

    0
    manudmaker
    manudmaker

    Reply 1 day ago

    interesting , will check this out. Thanks

    0
    kmpres
    kmpres

    1 day ago

    Nice Instructible! Nice project for a 3D printer -- only wish I had one. However, the box can be made of almost anything, including balsa wood which I used to work with a lot back in my model airplane days. Despite the naysayers in the comments list, there is value in removing the smoke as we solder. It's less irritating if the smoke goes into the fan and filter and not into your eyes and nose. People can debate all they want whether the pollutants are actually removed from the air. What matters for me is having a comfortable and safe work environment. For hobbyists it is often not practical or convenient to pipe the fumes outside or even open a window on a cold or hot day with HVAC systems running so this is a good compromise. BTW, flux is a plant-based product. I believe most of the pollutants are in the flux carrier and not the flux itself. However, as it burns the combustibles in the flux could become mildly toxic. Also, the tin and lead in the solder don't vaporize under soldering temperatures so they are not present in the smoke.

    0
    starguywisc
    starguywisc

    3 days ago

    What speed controller did you use & where did you get it? A very nice and useful projects. :)

    0
    BTG808
    BTG808

    Reply 3 days ago

    Looks like it is this one..

    96171050-2DB7-4C5F-92FC-E90593AB5C83.jpeg
    0
    BTG808
    BTG808

    3 days ago

    Only using one of the filters will increase the air flow.. not sure both are required.

    0
    VladY1
    VladY1

    3 days ago

    I'm not sure that Activated Carbon Filter
    absorbs lead/tin vapor which is the most dangerous