Introduction: Build a Folding Shoji Screen / Room Divider

By
About: Enjoy making custom furniture for our unit. Completed a Diploma in Visual Arts (Product Design) in 2021.

This project started when I was looking for a way to be able to 'close' my study door where I have an archway, instead of a doorway! I did some research on various room dividers and screens and loved how traditional Japanese shoji screens let through the light, while still providing privacy.


I recommend this project if you have some design and woodworking experience, have access to reasonable woodworking equipment, and some funds to put towards the project.


I worked out a shape and measurements for a room divider that would work in my space, and built it with assistance from a local woodworking workshop. They provided assistance with the how to construct the screen, as well as good quality woodworking equipment and tools. It took me over 20hrs and cost quite a bit of money (for workshop hire and supplies) but it is worth it if you value hand-made quality furniture and enjoy the making process.


Consider changing the measurements to fit your space, but keep in mind that the proportions needed to keep the screen upright, steady and safe for use.


It is also worth researching different shoji paper options - there are hardier options available (at a much higher cost), ones with different designs and colours - that is the fun part!


Also consider different hinge styles and colours - depending on the look and feel you want to create.

Supplies

Woodworking Equipment:

  • Woodworking Bench
  • Table Saw
  • Planer Thicknesser
  • Band Saw
  • Router
  • with Tenon Router Bit
  • with Hinge Router Bit / Tounge and Groove Router Bit
  • Electric Orbital Sander

Safety Equipment:

  • Eye protection (safety glasses)
  • Hearing protection (ear muffs)
  • Safety footwear (steel cap boots)
  • Fitted, high strength disposable gloves

Tools:

  • Drill - cordless
  • Retractable Ruler
  • T-Square Ruler
  • Woodworking Clamps
  • Long Nose Pliers
  • Pincer Pliers
  • Fine-detail Hammer (ideally a Japanese woodworking hammer)
  • Nail Punch Tool
  • Chisel
  • Hand Plane (optional)
  • Weights (small to medium books can be used)
  • Computer/Paper - to work out measurements for your space
  • Pencil and eraser

Supplies:

  • European Beech wood (or similar) - see Step 1 for measurements
  • Shoji paper - at least 6m x 500mm
  • 200ml Shoji glue
  • 200ml Woodworking glue - quality, fast-drying, for interior use
  • 300ml Hardwax oil - high quality, non toxic, colourless
  • 6 x 50mm Hinges with screws: Brass - Brushed Effect
  • 120 x Nails - 8mm length
  • Surface protector (old towels, painting plastic sheets)
  • 2 x Sanding sheets (for electric orbital sander) - 120 grit & 180 grit
  • 1 x Sandpaper piece- wet and dry - 400 grit
  • 1 x Sanding Block
  • Masking Tape (gentle removal/painters quality)
  • 9 x Floor Protectors - Felt pads 67mm x13 mm

Step 1: Evaluate Your Space (deciding on Dimensions)

Evaluate your space.

Consider the proportions you require for your room divider (make sure its steady).

You can use my measurements*, as the screen is sturdy and above head height for most people. Consider keeping the same thickness (20mm), as this is used in quite a few commercially produced room dividers.

*see drawing - there are 3 screens, each is 1850mm H x 483 W x 20mm D (total width of the 3 screens is approx. 1450mm). The only change for the original drawing is that the inner frames are 20mm high, not 12mm.

Step 2: Choose & Source Wood

Choose the wood you would like to use for this project. I used European Beech based on the wood workshop's recommendations, and its colour (how well it works in the intended space), weight, ease of use, and strength. Another option is European Ash for slightly lighter colouring.

Step 3: Order Other Supplies

Consider which Shoji paper and hinges would work best for your project and order.

Order other supplies for the project (see list in 'Supplies').

Step 4: Cut and Plane Pieces for the Exterior Frame

Put the undressed wood for the Exterior Frames through a wood planer to smooth it and to get the accurate thickness required for the different pieces.

Cut the wood pieces to size using a Table Saw.

Wood pieces final size needed:

  • 6 pieces: 1850mm x 50mm x 20mm
  • 3 pieces: 423mm* x 100mm x 20mm
  • 3 pieces: 423mm* x 75mm x 20mm

*includes extra 40 for the tenons

Step 5: Create the Joints for the Exterior Frames

Gather together the pieces for the 3 exterior frames; each piece has 2 long pieces and 2 short pieces.

Each of the exterior frames is to have 4 Mortise & Tenon joints (one at each corner).

Create the 'tenons':

On the 6 short pieces (3 top pieces and 3 bottom pieces), mark out the Tenon joints with a pencil (one at each end). Each 'tenon' is approx 20mm x 10mm x 50mm.

Use a Bandsaw to remove the wood to create the 12 Tenon joints, then use a chisel to create a clean 'tenon'.

Create the 'Mortises':

On the 6 long pieces, mark out the 12 Mortise joints with a pencil (one at each end, on inner edges only).

Use a Router (with Tenon Router Bit), to cut the mortise (holes).

Step 6: Glue the Exterior Frames Together

Do a 'dry run' of the exterior frames (put together the frame without glue, ensuring that the mortise and tenon joints work effectively).

Add a moderate amount of wood glue to the mortise and tenon joints, then clamp the frames together.

Ensure that the frames are clamped 'square'.

Wipe away the excess glue and leave clamped for recommended drying time (usually at least 24hrs).

Step 7: Cut and Plane Pieces for the Interior Frame

Put the undressed wood for the Interior Frames through the wood planer.

Cut the wood pieces to size using a Table Saw.

Wood pieces final size needed:

  • 18 pieces x 383mm x 20mm x 12mm
  • 3 pieces x 1,675mm x 20mm x 12mm


Step 8: Create Joints for the Interior Frame

Mark out the Half-lap joints for the internal frames using a pencil.

Cut out half the thickness of the wood in the designated spots using a bandsaw. There will be 9 holes for each of the 3 long pieces, and 1 hole for each of the 18 shorter pieces.

When all the pieces are cut, join them together (without glue) - you should end up with 3 'internal frames' (one for each screen).

Step 9: Connect Internal Frame to External Frame

Mark out in pencil where the two nails will go at each of the ends of the internal frame.

Drill small holes (on a 45 degree angle), slightly smaller than the nail size.

Using the fine-detail Hammer, and long nose pliers, and then a Nail Punch tool, hammer in two nails in each of the ends of the internal frame (on a 45 degree angle) to join the external frame.

Continue this until all 120 nails are in (the internal and external frames are all connected). This took me several hours to complete.

Step 10: Create Cut Mortises for Screen Hinges

-Do a couple of test mortises with the Router and Hinge Router Bit on a scrap piece of wood.

Mark out with a pencil where the 6 hinges are going to be positioned on the screens (make sure that the screen will fold correctly - the 3 parts will fold flat).

Use a Router with a Hinge Router Bit to create the mortices for the 6 hinges. Do this slowly and carefully, keeping the router as steady as possible, to avoid cutting too big a hole (you want the mortice to fit the hinge snugly).

Place a hinge into each mortice and mark out with pencil where to drill the holes (my hinges required 3 holes for 3 screws for each hinge).

Use a Nail Punch Tool to create small holes at each point.

Drill a hole at each point, deep enough for the hinge screws (but leaving enough wood for the screws to grip).

Test the 6 hinges (making sure the frames align properly to create a folding room divider). Then unscrew the hinges and store safely.

Step 11: Apply Oil Finish to Exterior and Interior Frames

Sand the frames with 120grit and 180grit sandpaper to get a smooth finish.

Apply the hardwax oil to wooden frame (exterior and interior frames), following the manufacturers instructions.

As a guideline, I did 3 coats (one side at a time), waiting 8 hours between coats, and lightly sanding with wet and dry sandpaper after the 2nd coat (apply a tiny bit of water to sandpaper, then wipe on a paper towel). Use an old (but clean) cloth and apply a moderate amount of oil each time, wiping off any excess oil at the end.

Once the 3 coats are applied and dried, the frame should feel smooth and the wood grain should be highlighted.

Step 12: Glue on the Shoji Paper

With the 3 wooden frames ready, it's time for one of the most fun and rewarding parts of the project; attaching the Shoji paper!

Follow the instructions from the shoji paper manufacturers, or use my method as a guideline. I recommend looking at some YouTube videos on how to apply shoji paper to screens before applying shoji paper to your own screen. You can even do a test mini - shoji screen (on a single small wooden square etc), to get a feel of how much glue to use and drying times.

Lay one screen frame on a woodworking bench (back side facing up).

Use 'gentle removal' masking tape to temporarily tape down the paper at one end of the screen.

Test the paper without glue first, to make sure it covers the entire screen.

Carefully roll back the shoji paper, and apply (a small to moderate amount) glue to small sections of the wood frame (on the back side).

Roll the paper onto the glued sections of the wood and press down gently, avoiding getting excess glue onto the paper that is not attached to wood.

Repeat until the shoji paper covers the entire back of the screen, then repeat with the other 2 screens.

Use a ruler and stanley knife to very carefully* cut the paper to the required size (e.g. leaving an outside border on the back of of the frames). Peel off any unwanted shoji paper (before the glue drys).

*Do this slowly and carefully to avoid tearing the shoji paper. Alternatively, you can cut the paper to the exact size you want for each screen before applying the glue. Just make sure to test that the paper sits correctly on the screen before gluing.

Note: The glue will be quite visible under the paper when it is wet.

Leave screens to dry for at least 24hrs until the paper is taut and the glue barely visable.

Step 13: Cut and Plane Pieces for the Wooden Back Borders

Put the undressed wood for the borders on the back of the frames through the wood planer.

Cut the pieces required using the Table Saw.

Wood pieces for the borders on the back of the frames are;

  • 9 pieces x 1675mm x 20mm x 4mm
  • 6 pieces x 383mm x 20mm x 4mm
  • 18 pieces x 182mm x 20mm x 4mm


Step 14: Add Oil Finish to Wooden Border

Select the best side of each of the wood pieces for the back border, and use a pencil to mark the worse side with an 'X'.

Sand the preferred faces with 120grit and 180grit sandpaper to get a smooth finish.

Lay out protection over the floor or workbenches where you will do the varishing. Lay the wooden pieces face up in sections, ready for applying the oil.

Get out the hardwax oil, cloths and gloves.

Apply hardwax oil to the front and sides of thewooden border pieces, following the manufacturers instructions.

As a guideline, I did 3 coats (one side at a time), waiting 8 hours between coats, and lightly sanding with wet and dry sandpaper after the 2nd coat (apply a tiny bit of water to sandpaper, then towel off, so pat dry on a paper towel). Use an old (but clean) cloth and apply a moderate amount of oil each time, wiping off any excess oil at the end.

Once the 3 coats are applied and dried, the back border pieces should feel smooth and the wood grain should be highlighted. Overall the wood will look slightly darker.

Step 15: Glue on Wooden Border (to Back)

Do a 'dry run' (without glue) of the back borders on the screen, checking that the position of the borders is square and symmetrical.

Carefully flip the wood pieces, just clear of where they will be glued on.

Apply a small to moderate amount of wood glue on one section of the screen at at time. Apply the glue to the shoji paper (the sections that are over wood), then glue the wood strips on.

Check the alignment of the border as you go along, adjusting until the strips are straight and square. When one screen is complete, carefully apply light weights (I used small books) to press down the wooden border and assit with the glue bonding between the back wooden border, shoji paper, and internal and external frame.

Leave to dry for at least 24hrs (check glue curing time).

Step 16: Add Hinges

Loosely screw in the 6 hinges - checking alignment of the frames, before tightening the hinges to make the folding screen stable and secure.

Test the alignment and movement of the screens.

Step 17: Done - Enjoy Your Shoji Screen

Depending on your flooring, you may want to stick on floor protectors. This also makes it easier to open and shut the folding screens. I used 3 small felt pads under each screen (9 total) from my local hardware store.

Enjoy your screen, try out different lights and if possible, allow sunlight through the paper to show off the beauty of the shoji paper and the wood.

Please leave a comment or feedback (including photos) of your shoji screen projects - it will be great to see this design used and modified in different spaces! Thanks.

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