Introduction: Build a Swing Bike

Hello and welcome,

Here I have a how to make a Swing bike ( Mini ) in 10 steps.

Mind you, you can make a 20"  OR A   24" bike the same way.

Tools required;

Bench and hand Grinder
Hack saw or another way of cutting
Plumming tourch
Varety of  tools to take apart and assemble the bike/s
Welding rig;
      Mig, Tig, or cutting Tourch with braze rods
Drill press / drill and drill bits
Bench Vice

Total cost for me will be in the welding, plus any new parts I aquired.
about  $70.00

Skill level;  I would put at an 8  out of  10  and  about 48 hrs + .

Click on any image for a larger view.

Thank you..

Step 1:

Parts needed;

You will need to gather your parts and doner bikes.

I used two 16" girls frame bikes, a 20" front fork, a 16" rear wheel and a 12" front wheel.

I also used a Trail-A-bike frame for the cross / swing tubes.

So here you may need to get tubing in place of this frame.
With this option you may need a person with a tubing bender.

OR > Make your own !  Click for Link....

I think for this project, the tool would need to be 18" - 22" long.

With a slow gradual bend of about 1-3/4 inches.

I'm just guessing as I have yet to make this tool myself.

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Step 2:

Remove all parts.

Cut off the head tubes with leads of about 3 inches.

You will need to turn the headtubes up side down for use.

Remove bearing cups, top for top and Bottom for bottom allways.

When cutting swing tubes, cut in a 35 degrees of angle to match up with the headtube leads...

Remember;  these need to be girls frames, not like the Boys red frame I'm cutting here.

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Step 3:

You will be useing a handle bar stem for a seat post.

I used the stem from a MTB and one of the longest they issue.

Cut and reform to your needs.

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Step 4:

Choose your forks. Not just any fork will work for you.

Be sure it is what you need, that it fits the headtubes you just cut off.

Fork for rear will need to be the rear wheel size.

Fork for the front will be longer than the size of the front wheel.

Ex; 20" rear  x  16" front wheels.
=    20" rear fork  x   24" front fork.

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Step 5:

Building your rear fork / frame. This is where some of that hard skill comes in.

Grind away your cut offs to smooth surface. Match your rear fork to lower frame.

Get the angle by installing the fender and rear wheel.

Install crank, chainring, chain and wheel, to be sure your brace rods clear the chain and moving parts.

Flat bar for brace rods work best. However, i have seen it done other ways.

Research is your Friend, look at 100's of photos on the net.
see the way other people have done this. Knowledge is a powerfull tool !

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" I wanted to feature this question "

Does the rake angle on the pivot under the seat tend to matter much as far as controlling the bike is concerned?

Read more:

I'm guessing it would, I just made the fork work with the mounting of the rear fender and wheel.

It just all worked out from there.

When side by side, the rear's near match each other and I did not even try.

I just matched to the rear fender mount with the welding of the fork.

Read more:

Step 6:

Removing fork stays ( If ) this is the type of fork you are useing.

Place in a vice, heat well, Pry, twist , remove........

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Step 7:

Building your Locking plate and pin. This is where some of that hard skill comes in.

I used 3/16 x 1" flat bar.

3" x 1/4" bolt and  1/8" roll pin.

2 Nuts, washers, spring and turn knob.

You will need to drill the 1/4 bolt with a 1/8" drill bit.

About 1/8th of an inch down from the head of the bolt.

Use a hammer and plyers to install the roll pin.

Then use a hack saw or cut off tool to take the head of the bolt off.

You will need to drill the turn knob out with a 1/4"  drill bit.

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Note; This step is only nessary if you wish to make a frame lock.

This allows you to lock the rear frame and the swing frame.

So that you can ride as a normal bike,  OR un-lock it and show off your skill.

If you do not wish to have a lock? all you will need is tab #3 in the drawing.

Step 8:

Create your front fork Fender / Brake stay.

Also the hook plate for the springs and

The front grab bar for the hook plate.

The fender stay was welded at the rear side.

This was just to keep it real clean looking from the front.

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Step 9:

Don't you just hate sanding ?

Well, I know I do. Here is an easy how to.

Heat the frame / paint with a pluming tourch and wire brush it off.

Its that easy, even for powder coat paint !

DON'T  heat the wires on the brush, they will fall out.

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Be Carefull, Open flame and hot metal can burn you.

Step 10:

I sure hope I've been a big help ? 

I hope I have not missed any steps ?

Be sure to post a Comment or ask Questions ?

I'll do my best to answer them.

Spring length and Strength is up to you.

I say no more than 5 inches long.

Good luck placing, welding, and painting you new ride.

Take care and allways Pre-Fit and measure twice.

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Short word of advice, When I do this build again.

I will braze the welds, much cleaner and smoother weld.

I will get more angle on the front headtube.

Special thanks to the Guys for posting this on youtube.

Step 11:

Up dated Photo, I changed the fork for a 20"

The springer fork is longer and raised the front up about 1-1/2" higher than I wanted.