Building a 3D Printed 1:100 Scale Horse Drawn Wagon



Introduction: Building a 3D Printed 1:100 Scale Horse Drawn Wagon

About: Unfortunately the owner of this site has passed away however it has not been closed to allow other users to hopefully benefit from some of the projects.

The kit referenced here has now been released to Thingiverse and limited copies are available for sale on eBay.

This instructable describes the assembly of a 3D Printed kit for a 1:100 scale replica of a World War 2 vintage horse drawn supply wagon.

There are actually two designs available. The original design (Wagon or Wagon1) was VERY loosely based on a style used by Germany but has been simplified for me to design it and then for 3D printing at the 1:100 scale. The second wagon is closer to the look and dimensions of one of the larger field wagons using by the Germans during WW2. It is still, of course, adjusted for the small scale.

The figures shown are from Essex Miniatures (horses) and Peter Pig (drivers). The horses are a perfect fit for the model but the figures need some tuning!

The instructions to follow will note the differences between the two models.

Step 1: Cleanup Support Material

Two of the pieces for the wagon would require the printer to extrude plastic in mid air...and since this is not possible something called support material is used. This must be carefully and gently removed (assuming that it has not already been removed for you)!

This step is the same for both models.

Step 2: Prepare the Figures for Mounting and Painting

I purchased the driver from Peter Pig and the horses from Essex Miniatures, both in the United Kingdom. Your region might offer additional choices. I will be selling a limited number of the kits and will provide figures as an option for the larger wagon. The figures need some amount of cleaning before painting. You need to remove the extra bits of lead and they need to be washed so any residual mold release agent does not interfere with paint adhesion. In the case of the Peter Pig model...note the steering wheel. That needs to go! I have not found a better drive available on its own but am still hoping that I might be able to come up with one cast to order.

This step is the same for both models

Step 3: Paint and Weather

Painting and weathering can happen at any point you wish but I would recommend doing so prior to attaching the undercarriage as having it flop around while you are painting is a pain. A well weathered look was my goal here...that is as well weathered as I could do in as short a time as possible so I could get on with this Instructable!

This step is largely the same for both models though the larger model has more detail and a couple extra parts.

At the end of this Instructable I will feature photographs of a the larger model assembled and painted by a master craftsman.

Step 4: Secure Tongue With Rear Axel Attached

Securing the tongue with the rear axel attached makes it easier to glue the rear axel in the next step. Insert the peg on the tongue assembly through the hole in the rear axel and then into the wagon body. Heat a hobby knife or some other metal instrument and use that to melt a knob into the top of the peg from the tongue assembly. This will secure the front axel and tongue to the wagon. Be careful! PLA, which was used for the wagon print, has a low melting point!

This step is the same for both models.

Step 5: Secure Axels to Wagon

The registration tabs on the rear axel should now line up nicely with their counterparts on the wagon. Super glue them rear axel into place.

This step is the same for both models.

Step 6: Attach Wheels

As printed the wheels are unlikely to fit onto the axels without a little bit of reaming. How much is up to you. If you want them to freely spin and you plan on melting the ends of the axels to retain them in place then ream more. If you want a natural tight fit then ream as little as possible. At this point you can seal the wheels to the axel using the hot knife technique if you want them to free wheel, or you can glue them, or you can just do a friction fit.

This step is the same for both models.

Step 7: Attach Spare Wheel and Tools

The tools should go on either side of the wagon and can be mounted vertically, as shown above, or horizontally as shown by the model at the end of the instructable. The spare wheel goes on the back. Who knew that wagons had spare wheels?

This step could apply to the smaller wagon if you printed a spare wheel and the tools though there is no mounting point for the spare wheel on the small model.

Step 8: Install Cargo and Cover Supports or Cover

The model can be configured with the cargo area in five different layouts. There are three different cargo load outs, a cover, or of course empty. If the covered approach is not taken then two cover supports should be installed. Note that I did not do this on my demo model but the one that is featured at the end of the Instructable is build properly!

This step only applies to the larger model (though if you are printing the model yourself the cargo could be shrunk to fit the smaller wagon).

Step 9: Example of the Large Field Wagon in a Diorama

I really wish that I could claim to have built the diorama that is featured on this page but, alas, I can most assuredly not!

This diorama was built by Bill, the Scenic Doctor, who is a "Yoda" of model building as near as I can tell. He has been modeling for 40 years and has a whole wealth of experience in all types of models. He also casts in resins for models that are not available otherwise. Buildings, trees and scenery are what he does best as for a few years he worked with the biggest modeling company in Scotland.

Please enjoy the photos above and take a look at some of Bill's other work on his website.

Here are Bill's tips on the painting of the model shown above:

  • Just a spray with army painter desert yellow then a black wash.
  • An old brush for the light green...very simple.
  • Horses are white and light brown.
  • Black wash, then same colour dry brushed.

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