Introduction: Built-in Seating

About: Self-taught maker. Trying to get into more refined wood working in the next few years. I have a huge interest in using raw wood for furniture and other things. Also have a background in welding, just currently…

Built-in seating with lots of storage for a nice space saving kitchen nook.

Step 1: Measure, Materials

Determine materials to be used. This project used 2x4 white wood, 9/16" particle board, 1/4" panel board and 3/4" MDF.

Find a chair that's a comfortable height and depth, take those measurements and apply to your bench. This bench is 18" tall(top of seat) and 18" deep(wall to front lip).

Measure your desired length on both walls and to save some clean up, use painter's tape to mark wall measurements.

Step 2: Prep

Cut away trim to desired length with a Dremel or easy cutting tool. I used a hand saw and it was difficult and I couldn't get a straight cut so I had to make more than one cut.

Remember to leave room for the trim you'll be putting on the boxes to fit behind the wall trim.

I had my trim paint color matched at Lowe's and they did a great job.

I placed my bench right on top of the flooring.

Step 3: Base

Cut your bases and include thicknesses of material for your measurements. All of my 2x4's were put together using a kreg jig.

Put the bases in place, use 3" screws to fasten to wall and then place plywood cut to fit on top.

Step 4: Risers and Top Frame

Remember your desired height overall that you want.

Add the base, plywood, top frame, and top board and subtract from your overall height to get the height of your riser boards.

They should be About 9 3/4" -10 1/2" depending on material used.

Cut all your risers and construct your top frames. They should mimic the base frames. Risers will screw through plywood into base frame perfectly fine.

If doing a corner bench like this, remember to screw both base and top frames together for consistency and rigidity.

Step 5: Paneling and Molding

Cut paneling for the sides.

Cut the panels so that when the corners meet, they don't create a void. Make the side edge of one piece meet the front edge of the other. I hope that makes sense.

It basically means some of your pieces will overlap the side.

This is the same for the molding.

Use an air nailer to connect paneling and molding. Adhesive can be used, it's a personal preference.

Step 6: Top Plate

Cut your top board to fit and measure the cut outs that will be turned into the liftable part of the lid. Remember to give about an inch of over hang to your top board.

Once it's cut out I routed the edges that will be behind the knees and on the edge. Not where the two boards meet or the wall side of the board. It was just a round over route on top and bottom to help avoid a sharp lip.

Remember to cut out a sliver of trim for the top to hide where the wall and top board meet. Mine was 2.5" of the MDF I had with 45 degree notches on the end.

Step 7: Top Board and Finishing

Screw top board in place and fill all nail and screw holes with whatever you like. I prefer vinyl caulking, and be sure to caulk all gaps, including where wall trim meets bench.

Once dried go over with a hand sander with 220 grit.

Wipe all surfaces with a damp rag to clean up sanding leftovers.

Tape all walls and floors and paint with semi gloss paint to help make it easy for wiping and cleaning.

Step 8: Dried and Finish

Once paint has dried place liftable portion of lid in place ensuring flush fronts and a gap between both sides and Mark your hinges. Pilot the holes and then put screws in. Vacuum and do a wipe down and your done! Sit and enjoy!

Wood Contest 2016

Participated in the
Wood Contest 2016