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A tool stand designed to house 2 large tools on a top that can be turned 180 degrees.

When you finish with one tool, unlock your top and flip it over to use a different tool.

Step 1: Tools Needed & Cut List

Circular saw


Tape measure

Drill & bits








Sand paper

Countersink bit

Screwdriver philips head

A= sides x2 ¾ ply- 23 ¾ x 28

B= bottom x1 ¾ ply-23 ¾ x 24 ½

C =cleats x4 ¾ ply- 3 ½ x 20 ¾

D= kickboards x2 ¾ ply- 1 ½ x 24

E= top boards x2 ¾ ply- 23 ¾ x24

F= side spacers x2 hardwood x2 ¾ HW- 2 x 19 ¾

G= front & back spacers hardwood x2 ¾ HW- 2 x 24

H= pivot dowel x2 1” dia – 5” long


While assembling parts I found it easier to place letters on each part instead of calling them by their respective part name. only due to my bad memory.

A= sides

B= bottom

C= cleats

D= kickboards

E= top

F=side spacers hard wood

G= front spacers hardwood

Step 2: Measuring and Making the Dado

Cut all boards to size using ¾ Ply or MDF sheet

Cutting the Long Dados

After you have cut all your cut list, CLEARLY mark with the appropriate letters.

Choose a side and clearly mark inside and outside.
Do the same with top and bottom, It will prevent you from making a silly mistake

locate the inside of Board (A)

Measure up from the bottom, 1 5/8. Make sure it’s the inside bottom of both A’s,

This will be the bottom line of your ¼ deep dado we are going to cut.

Measure up the thickness of your chosen timber and mark it appropriately.

The dado extends the entire length of the board.

You can cut your dado in any way you chose, I used the table saw.

Your dado is cut to ¼ " of the depth of the wood thickness you have chosen, do this on both A boards.

Clean the dados up with a sharp chisel and finish cleaning with some sandpaper glued on to a scrap board of the same thickness as the dado less 1/16, (easily shaved off using a table saw or belt sander.)

Or you can save yourself a lot of trouble and cut your Dado with a router and straight bit.

Step 3: Assembling Walls, Base, Cleats, Kickboards, Chamfers, Assembling Walls and Bottom .

Cutt 4 chamfers.

One on each corner of your (A) boards.

Measure from the ends of each corner ½ inch.

Scribe / mark a line joining both ½” marks, forming your triangle.

Cut the 4 triangles off each of your A boards. Eight cuts in total.

Assembling Walls and Bottom.

You will need board (B) (BOTTOM ) and both A’s

Insert board B between your two A boards

Slot the ends of board B into the dado’s on both A boards ensuring board B fits snugly in the dado.

Do a dry run to make sure you have your thickness right,

Once you have clean dry fit evenly mark out your screw placement on the outside of boards A and drill your clearance holes.

Flip your A boards over and using a counter sink make room for the screw heads.

Flip again and do the same countersinking on the inside of the A board. Where it would house the B board

this leaves room for the B board to swell when the screw grabs at the first edge of the timber.

Glue and Screw Board B to A’s.

Clamp over the join and try to use a crowned board (a board shaped like a banana so equal pressure is supplied along the entire base when clamped.)


evenly space your screws along the outer A boards and use plenty of glue.

Cleats and Kickboards
Board C (x4) are your cleats.

Glue and screw two C’s together, do this twice, leaving you with 2 cleats made up of 2 layers each.

At this stage I would suggest tacking a spacer across the top end of your a boards to prevent joint stressing while moving it around.

Turn you’re glued and screwed A’s & B on its side so you have access to the underside of board B.

Place your two C’s boards (cleats,) hard against the bottom of B and hard against the edge of A, of course one against each A, not both on one side.

Centre your cleats keeping an equal distance from the end of board (A), mark your position and take your cleats to the drill press.

A few inches apart for your screws is more than ok, (see photo) I like to overdo things. You could get away with four screws if you choose to.

I however know I’m going to place approximately 100kg load to this stand and both tools shake and vibrate.

Drill clearance holes for your screws followed by your counter sink for the heads.

Flip over your cleats and counter sink the other side.

Again allowing room for the timber to swell when the screw first grabs at the timber pulling fibers up like a small mushroom.

Important !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Check then check again and triple check your screws you are going to use are not too long and don't protrude out the other side of board B

Glue and screw your cleats to the base of your B board. F

from the outside of your A boards place several more screws into your cleats for added strength.

D ‘s are your kick board, a

After making my kickboards I remade them again, deviating from my instructions, and make the kick board apart of the strengthening process, using 2”x 2” pine and

glued and screwed it.


My workshop was broken into.

During the time I waited for the insurance company to replace my tools I had noticed the bottom board had turned into a banana. This was with no weight on the top.

Step 4: Wheels and Top Construction

Turn the job upside down and place your wheels on the ends of the cleats.

Mark with your trusty pencil your pilot holes. Remove your wheels and drill the pilot hole followed by your clearance hole, if you choose.

Using a spring washer and screws as long as possible, but not long enough to protrude out of board B, secure your wheels.

Top Board, E’s, F’s & G’s.

The top is made from two E’s, F’s and G’s. E’s are the top and bottom panel boards, F is side spacers while G is the front and back spacers.

Place 1 of your E’s aside for a minute and we will work on your F’s and G’s.

Place one E board flat and lay your G boards, being hardwood on the longest edges, place your F boards also hardwood between your G’s on the shortest edges. Keep

the f and G boards flush with the outer of your E board. Lay your last E board on top and check everything sits flush..

I use a craft glue stick to make a slight sticky surface so my boards don’t move while placing larger and heavier timber on top of them.

Do not glue up at this point, this is a dry run only.

Step 5: Slots for Eye Bolts

From the ends of your top, measure down 2” so the slot will be along the long end of end grain (see photo),

Do this to both ends of both G boards. See photo

This is best done with the eye bolts first in hand to ensure the bolt thickness is met.

To fix this, Measure the thickness of your eye bolt and transcribe that measurement to the end grain of the G board and mark it two inches along the board. The eye bolt

will hide in the cut out slot. Held in place by a bolt.

Take your G boards to the table saw and cut a slot 2/8” wider than your eye bolt.

Cut on the table saw. Cutting the line with the blade allowing for slight movement for the eye bolt.

Once all four end grain are slotted in your G boards, place all your G and F boards back in place and glue all four boards ( F’s & G’s) to the E board they are sitting on.


Pay attention to keeping the edges flush with the E board, this will save a lot of sanding later.

When dry, glue the other E board to the dried G and F boards leaving you with a very thick looking and solid looking almost square top.

Carriage Bolt Hole.

On all four corners we are going to drill a hole for a carriage bolt 1 inch x 1 ½. From the edge, see pictures. This bolt holds the eye bolt in place to pivot.

1 ½ inch is measured along the 2 inch slot, while the end grain is measured1 inch along. Using a square, mark your lines.

Where the lines intersect drill a hole through all 3 boards equal to your bolt thickness +1/32 or to make the bolt drop easily into the whole.

Drill a counter bore for the head and washer to hide in.

I found the counter bore needed to be larger than the washer not just the bolt head.

Once this is done flip the top over and drill counter boars again to hide the washer and lock nut in. my Counter boars are 3/8 deep.

Insert eye bolts in all four slots, place the carriage bolt in its clearance hole and secure bolt, but not too tight, the eye bolt need to move freely.

The eye bolts need to be aprox 2 ½ inch long. They will need a knob with a threaded insert.

I used circular wheel with a hole cut for a nut, keeping the nut on the outside of the wheel.


I struggled here on how to align up the eye bolts so the top would be square and level and at the desired height i required.

I used clamps on the A boards edges to hold the top at the desired height.

Place the thread of the eye bolts against the edge of the A boards and tap with a rubber mallet.

Leaving light thread marks of where the securing slots needed to be.

Mark with a square two parallel lines with 1/16 extra width for ease of insertion.

Using a jigsaw or hand saw cut in 1 1/4" from the edge.

Using your jig saw or chisel remove the strip and sand smooth.

Step 6: Pivot and Dowel Hole

Drilling the dowel hole in both A boards.

Measure along the 23 3/4 edge.

Find the half way point.

Run a line using a square 3 inches or so down. just a referance line atm.

measure down 2 1/2 inches along the same line and that is the center of your 1" hole for your dowel pivot point.

Place both A boards together on the drill press and using a 1" spade bit drill your hole.

Drilling the Pivot Point Hole in the Top

Place your top (e) boards so your eyebolts slot into the side slots in the ends of your (A) boards.

Secure the knobs tight and ensuring your top is level with both ends of your A boards.

Ensuring your drill is level in both directions, help may be needed.

Place your drill bit through your 1 inch existing hole in your A boards and drill through the F board (hardwood) into the open space in side the top of the top board

Do this on both A boards

Step 7: 1 Inch Dowel & Pivot Point Assembly

1 Inch Dowel assembly.

Cut 2 five inch long pieces of one inch dowel.

Slightly Round over 1 end. Lightly taper the dowel for easy insertion.

Leaving your top securely in place to the A boards wia the side bolts, Tap the dowel into the 1 inch hole & in the A board, leaving the dowel flush with the outer edge of your A board.

secure the dowel to the flip top,

screw a fine wood screw down through the top board and into the dowel mid way through the hardwood timber (F)

My holes were not drilled square and now every time I turn the top over the sides try to pull away from the top. To correct this I secured two wheels via a screw to the end

of the outer dowel located on both A boards Now it squeaks and gowns like a old floor board when I turn the unit.

Good luck and I hope you enjoy making one as much as I enjoy using the end product.