Introduction: Car Decoction/Modification: Adding Style and Function to a Used Car.

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About: Hello reader. My name is Steve and I live in the south east of England, U.K, and I have been a hobbyist for as long as I can remember. I've been making & tinkering with things ever since I was a kid, and many …

Welcome dear reader. Decorating is not just confined to clothes, room, outside spaces or other things, cars can be decorated too. Here I will show you how to decorate/modify a car using cost effective materials and tried and tested techniques you can use to to give your car a little more personality.

The Project:

This project is about redecorating and lightly modifying my basic model 2004 Toyota Yaris T3 as my example, to give it a sportier, more individual look without turning it into something impractical or overdone. Rather than chasing performance figures, the focus is on visual upgrades, usability improvements, and personal expression. I will guide you through the techniques I used to decorate my car to show you that with cost effective materials and equipment, you too can give your car a personalised facelift. But this Instructable is not about working on a Toyota Yaris as any of these decorating and modification techniques can be used on pretty much any car.

The changes are deliberately subtle but cumulative. Exterior updates include vinyl wrap racing stripes, a boot spoiler and rear air diffuser, low profile body skirt and wheel arch flares, front LED angel eye driving lights, tinted windows, and LED warning lights in both doors. Inside, the interior is refreshed with new seat covers, re-covered front arm rests on the door cards, selectively spray painted dashboard panels, and the addition of front and rear dash cams.

An additional upgrade is a custom-installed tablet system that replaces the traditional rear view mirror. This acts as a video mirror tied into the dash cams, navigation screen, media player, and vehicle diagnostics display, all driven by my own UI designs and control layout to make it look smart yet easy to see and use while driving. The result is a small, economical car that now feels considered, modern, distinctly mine and given it a new lease of life.

The Inspiration:

I’ve worked on cars for years, both practically and creatively, and this project grew from the simple desire to give an everyday vehicle a fresher identity. Modern cars are increasingly efficient, reliable… and visually anonymous. This was my way of pushing back against that.

It’s also a nod to my younger years, when modifying and customising cars was less about trends and more about personal taste. Vinyl, lighting, interior tweaks... these were how you made a car 'yours'. Revisiting that mindset has been oddly nostalgic and genuinely enjoyable, a reminder that creativity doesn’t disappear just because insurance premiums get higher.

Most importantly, this project treats car modification as decoration. Just like a room makeover, it’s about colour, texture, contrast, lighting, and flow. No engine swaps, no aggressive tuning wanted or needed, just thoughtful design choices that transform how the car looks, feels, and functions day to day.

The Design:

The exterior design is built around contrast and restraint. Carbon fibre effect vinyl wrap is used for the main stripes on the hood, tailgate and sides, chosen for its sporty texture without the cost or permanence of real carbon fibre. These are accented with purple pinstripes, a colour choice made specifically to stand out against the bodywork without shouting for attention.

Bonnet vents, a boot spoiler and diffuser are added to reinforce the sporty aesthetic, while low profile body flares subtly widen the stance. Lighting plays both a practical and decorative role, with LED angel eye driving lights and high beam spot lights at the front and illuminated door seal safety lights to improve visibility while adding a modern touch. A new set of wheel trims completes the outside look.

Inside, the goal was to break up the factory black and dark grey interior. White accents are introduced through re-covered panels and painted dashboard sections to create contrast and make the cabin feel brighter and more intentional. The tablet-based system ties everything together, replacing cluttered controls with a clean, custom interface that feels more like a designed space than a stock car interior. And the tinted windows are done with a difference... not using tinted film, but instead using pre-cut polycarbonate acrylic.

In short, every change serves the same philosophy, decorating a car is still modifying it, and done thoughtfully, it can be just as expressive as any performance upgrade. We're not talking bold 'Fast & Furious' styling here, just some subtle decoration to turn a once bland motor into a nice looking hot hatch.

Supplies

The following is an example of what I used for the work done.

Materials Used:

  1. Vinyl wrap (carbon fibre effect)
  2. Vinyl pinstripe tape (purple)
  3. Automotive 3M VHB tape
  4. Exterior trim parts (wheel arch flares, side skirts, faux vents)
  5. Rear spoiler and rear diffuser
  6. Replacement wheel trims
  7. Wheel paint (black)
  8. Plastic-safe spray paint / primer
  9. LED lights (spot, door safety LED strips, fog/angel eye,, indicators)
  10. Cool-white LED side light bulbs
  11. Premium seat covers
  12. Steering wheel cover
  13. Fabric and vinyl (door inserts and cup holders)
  14. Spray adhesive and silicone adhesive
  15. Carbon fibre door seal strips
  16. Custom vinyl lettering
  17. Tablet, dash cams, and power cables
  18. Wiring, connectors, and cable ties
  19. Solarplexius tinted window panels

Tools Used:

  1. Trim removal tools
  2. Measuring tape and masking tape
  3. Craft knife and scissors
  4. Vinyl squeegee
  5. Heat gun or hair dryer
  6. Cleaning alcohol and microfiber cloths
  7. Screwdrivers and basic socket set
  8. Drill and hole cutter
  9. Sandpaper (fine grit)
  10. Wire strippers, crimpers, and test light
  11. Zip ties and gloves

List of Steps:

  1. Step 1: Vinyl Stripes & Hood Vents
  2. Step 2: Wheel Trims
  3. Step 3: Spoiler & Rear Air Diffuser
  4. Step 4: Fitting Wheel Arch Flares, Side Skirt Trim, and Faux Arch Vents
  5. Step 5: Side Indicators/Turn Signal Repeaters
  6. Step 6: Door Warning Lights, Spot Lights & LED Fog/Driving Lights
  7. Step 7: Window Tinting
  8. Step 8: Interior
  9. Step 9: Conclusion

Step 1: Vinyl Stripes & Hood Vents

Vinyl wrapping stripes is less about speed and more about preparation, alignment, and restraint. Done correctly, even a modest car can look intentionally sporty rather than accidentally customised. This process covers applying two 20 cm carbon fibre effect stripes to the bonnet, tailgate, and single stripes lower sides of the car, followed by 10mm purple pinstripes each side of the carbon fibre, and accent detailing around the fog lights, lower grille and around the rear vallance. Patience is a venture here as vinyl remembers every mistake.

  1. Surface Preparation: Thorough preparation is non negotiable. Wash the car to remove dirt, road film, and wax residue, then degrease all stripe areas using isopropyl alcohol or panel wipes. Pay special attention to panel edges, badge areas, windscreen washer jets and recessed sections where grime likes to hide. If badges sit within the stripe path, decide whether to remove them or cut around them later, removing them gives the cleanest result, but careful trimming which is what I did is perfectly acceptable if removal isn’t practical. Ensure all surfaces are completely dry before moving on.
  2. Planning and Marking the Stripe Layout: Measure and mark the center line of the bonnet and tailgate using masking tape. From this, mark out two parallel 20 cm stripe positions with equal spacing between them. Extend this layout visually to the lower side panels so the stripes feel continuous and balanced along the car’s length. Use masking tape guides rather than relying on sight alone, especially on curved panels.
  3. Applying the Carbon Fibre Stripes (Dry Method): Lay each stripe in place using the tape hinge method: tape one edge of the vinyl in position, fold it back, peel the backing gradually, and squeegee from the centre outward using firm, even strokes. Work slowly to avoid trapping air, keeping tension light and consistent. On curved panels like the bonnet edges and tailgate contours, gently warm the vinyl with a heat gun or hair dryer to help it conform without stretching the pattern excessively.
  4. Working Around Badges and Panel Gaps: When reaching badges, press the vinyl lightly over them to reveal their outline. Use a sharp craft blade like an X-acto knife to carefully cut around the badge and washer jets, keeping the blade angled away from the paint. For panel gaps and edges, warm the vinyl slightly, press it into the recess, then trim cleanly, leaving a few millimetres wrapped around the panel edge for durability.
  5. Applying Carbon Stripes to the Lower Side Panels: Lower side panels often have more complex curves and road exposure, so alignment is critical. Use longer lengths of vinyl where possible to avoid joins. Apply from the flattest section outward, warming the vinyl gently as you work around wheel arches and contour lines. Avoid over stretching, let heat and patience do the work. Lay the vinyl in one piece over door gaps, then use the knife at an angle to cut the excess away and squeegee down the vinyl.
  6. Adding the 10 mm Purple Pinstripes Alongside the Carbon: Once the carbon stripes are fully applied, apply the purple pinstripes parallel to them, leaving a small 5mm gap and maintaining a consistent gap for visual balance. Pinstripes should be applied with light tension only. Pulling too hard will cause them to shrink back over time, especially on curved sections. As before, apply the pinsripes in one length over door gaps etc. then cut off the excess. This makes for a more uniformed, straight line. One thing to mention, between the carbon stripes on the bonnet/hood I attached a 20mm width of purple pinstripe.
  7. Applying Pinstripes Around Curves and Contours: For curves, such as wheel arches, bumper edges, and body lines, apply the pinstripe in short sections. Lay it down gradually, guiding it with your fingers rather than forcing it into shape. On tight curves, gently warm the pinstripe to increase flexibility, allowing it to follow the curve naturally. Avoid creases by letting the vinyl relax into position rather than pushing it flat. If resistance builds, stop, lift slightly, reheat, and then continue.
  8. Fog Light Recess and Lower Grille Pinstriping: Clean these areas again before starting, they collect more debris than you think. Begin at a visually central point and work outward symmetrically. Use short, controlled sections of pinstripe, especially around recessed fog light surrounds. Heat is essential here, but sparingly applied. Press the stripe firmly into recesses and around edges, trimming neatly where necessary. Try to have the joins of each end of the tape in a place not immediately visible like around the top area of the fog light recesses.
  9. Final Heating and Edge Sealing: Once all vinyl is in place, gently heat all edges, corners, and recessed areas to activate the adhesive and prevent lifting. Run a finger or soft cloth along every edge to ensure full contact. This step locks everything in and significantly improves longevity.
  10. Final Inspection and Cure Time: Stand back and inspect alignment, spacing, and consistency from multiple angles. If anything looks off now, it will only annoy you later. Avoid washing the car or exposing it to heavy rain and direct sunlight where possible for at least 24-48 hours to allow the adhesive to fully cure.
  11. Bonnet/Hood Vents: The final job was to fit a pair of heed vents, not for function, but purely for aesthetic reasons only. Locate where they are to be placed and mark the areas with masking tape, measure again to make sure placement will be symmetrical. Clean the area with isopropyl alcohol cleaner, remove the adhesive backing tape and firmly lay them into place, keeping pressure on the vents for a few seconds so the adhesive adheres properly them remove the masking tape.

Done properly, vinyl stripes stops looking aftermarket, and start behaving like design elements, deliberate, cohesive, and quietly confident.

Step 2: Wheel Trims

My car came with steel wheels with some matt black with red stripe wheel trims fitted, and I wasn't so keen on the look. Not wanting to go for a set of alloys, I purchased a new set of gloss black/silver trims. Wheel trims may be removable, but what sits behind them is always on display eventually. You could simply pop off the old ones and put the new set on, but done properly, before fitting new trims, refinishing the steel wheels ensures that anything visible through the openings looks intentional rather than neglected. This process covers safely removing the old trims, preparing and painting the steel wheels black, and fitting the new trims so they stay put and look right.

  1. Removing the Old Wheel Trims: Park the car on level ground and apply the handbrake. Starting at the valve area, gently pull the wheel trim away from the rim using steady pressure with both hands. Avoid levering with tools unless absolutely necessary, as this can bend the steel wheel or crack the trim. Work your way around the circumference until the trim releases completely. I gave mine a wash and gave them away to someone.
  2. Inspecting and Preparing the Steel Wheels: With the trims removed, inspect the steel wheels for rust, flaking paint, or heavy dirt buildup. Minor surface rust, which mine had, is normal and easily dealt with at this stage. Give them a rub with some fine grade wet and dry sanding paper.
  3. Cleaning and Degreasing: Thoroughly clean each wheel using warm soapy water and a stiff brush to remove brake dust and grime. Rinse and allow to dry fully. Follow up with a degreaser or isopropyl alcohol to remove any remaining oils. Pay close attention to the outer rim and vent areas, as these will remain visible behind the trims.
  4. Masking Tyres and Valve Stems: Mask the tyres using masking tape and paper or plastic sheeting, tucking the tape slightly under the tyre bead for a clean edge. Cover the valve stem to prevent paint build up that could interfere with tyre inflation.
  5. Preparing the Surface for Paint: If you haven't done so already, lightly sand the visible areas of the wheel using fine-grit sandpaper to key the surface. This helps the paint adhere properly and smooths out any imperfections. Wipe the wheels down again with degreaser and allow them to dry completely before painting.
  6. Painting the Steel Wheels Black: Use a quality wheel paint designed to withstand heat and brake dust. Apply light, even coats, keeping the spray moving to avoid runs. Several thin coats are far better than one heavy coat, even though they won't really be seen. Allow appropriate drying time between layers as specified by the paint manufacturer. Ensure full coverage on the outer rim and any sections visible through the new wheel trim openings.
  7. Allowing Proper Cure Time: Once painting is complete, allow the wheels to cure fully before handling or refitting trims. Rushing this step risks fingerprints, scuffs, or peeling paint later. If possible, leave the wheels untouched for at least 24 hours.
  8. Preparing the New Wheel Trims: Before fitting, test each new trim against the wheel to confirm correct size and valve cut out alignment. Ensure the retaining ring on the back of the trim is properly seated and secure, this is what keeps the trim from making an unscheduled exit at speed.
  9. Fitting the New Wheel Trims: Align the valve cut out with the valve stem and press the trim onto the wheel using firm, even pressure. Work around the trim’s edge, pressing it into place until all clips engage. You should hear or feel the trim snap securely into position as each section seats properly.
  10. Final Check and Road Test: Spin each wheel slightly by hand to ensure the trim sits evenly and does not wobble. After a short drive, recheck that all trims remain firmly seated. If one feels loose, remove it and inspect the retaining ring before refitting.

Freshly painted steel wheels paired with a new set of well fitted trims gives a tidy stylish look, giving the effect of having alloy wheels fitted.

Step 3: Spoiler & Rear Air Diffuser

Fitting a Rear Tailgate Spoiler With 3M VHB Tape: No Drilling Required.

The rear spoiler on my car may hint at performance, but in this case I fitted it to complete the visual balance of the car. The one I purchased came ready painted to a black gloss finish which would match my car's colour. Fitted cleanly and measured correctly, it elevates the rear end without resorting to drilling holes or irreversible changes. The spoiler came with its own double sided tape, but not fully trusting the quality of it, I went with something I have used many times before. I used 3M VHB (Very High Bond) automotive tape, which, when applied correctly it is more than capable of holding trim and body accessories securely.

  1. Test Fit and Alignment: Before touching any adhesive, place the spoiler on the tailgate to confirm fit and positioning. Check alignment from multiple angles, ensuring it sits level and centred. Use masking tape to mark reference points so you can reposition it accurately later without guesswork.
  2. Surface Preparation: Clean the tailgate area thoroughly with soap and water, then degrease using isopropyl alcohol. This step is critical, VHB tape bonds to clean paint, not polish residue or wax. Allow the surface to dry completely before moving to the next stage.
  3. Preparing the Spoiler and Tape: If the spoiler does not already have tape applied or is as I mentioned above, you don't trust the quality of the supplied tape, fit genuine 3M VHB tape to all contact points, pressing it firmly into place. The more tape you add, the stronger the bond will be. Take into account any overhang of the spoiler from the tailgate where it will be attached, and the top of the 'C' pillars/roof which you don't want the spoiler to stick to so you can open the tailgate.
  4. Final Placement and Bonding: Peel back the tape backing and carefully align the spoiler using your masking tape guides. VHB can sometimes be a pain when starting to peel back the backing, so use the tip of a hobby knife to help get it started. Once satisfied, press the spoiler into place applying firm, even pressure along the entire length. Hold pressure for a few seconds to activate the adhesive properly. Avoid touching the exposed adhesive once the backing is removed, oils from your fingers weaken the bond.
  5. Curing Time and Final Checks: Do not wash the car or expose it to heavy rain for at least 24 hours. Ideally, allow 48 hours for full bond strength. Resist the urge to 'test' it, VHB tape works best when left alone to do its job.

Fitting a Rear Air Diffuser (Aesthetic Upgrade Only).

The rear air diffuser is fitted purely for visual reasons, giving the lower rear valance a more aggressive and finished appearance. While it may look aerodynamic, its purpose here is decorative, a styling element that complements the spoiler and lower body lines. Like the spoiler, it came ready painted to a black gloss finish.

  1. Test Fit and Clearance Check: Position the diffuser against the lower rear valance to check fitment, exhaust clearance, and symmetry. Ensure it doesn’t interfere with sensors, tow points, or exhaust movement. As the one I purchased was a "Universal" fit (as advertised, but they are really not), I had to cut some small sections out with a fine toothed jigsaw blade. The areas needing to be cut were covered with masking tape, cut out areas marked with a pen, and the cut out at a slow'ish speed as to not melt the plastic. The tape was removes and cut edges lightly sanded.
  2. Cleaning and Surface Prep: Clean and degrease the mounting area thoroughly. Lower sections of the car collect road grime, so take extra care here. Dry fully before fitting.
  3. Mounting the Diffuser: Depending on the design, the diffuser may attach using screws, clips, or automotive grade adhesive tape. Follow the manufacturer’s guidance and avoid overtightening fixings, which can crack plastic components. I used black machine screws to fit mine as the rounded black screw heads would not really be noticeable on the black diffuser. Work from the centre outward to keep alignment true.
  4. Final Inspection: Step back and check that the diffuser sits level and follows the lines of the rear bumper evenly. Once fitted, avoid curbs and steep ramps until you’re confident of its clearance.

Now we move onto some more body styling. Decorating vehicles is fun.

Step 4: Fitting Wheel Arch Flares, Side Skirt Trim, and Faux Arch Vents

I added these additions to focus on visual balance and subtle protection rather than mechanical performance. All components used here are pre painted gloss black, silicone moulded parts attached using automotive 3M VHB tape. The result is a sportier profile, better defined lower lines, and a small but useful buffer against everyday knocks and road debris.

Test Fitting and Layout Planning: Before removing any adhesive backing, position each component on the car to confirm fitment and symmetry. Low profile wheel arch flares should follow the natural curve of the arches without overhang and the need for wider wheels. Side skirt trims should run parallel to the sill line, and faux arch vents should sit evenly on both sides of the front wheel arches. Use masking tape to mark reference points so placement remains consistent.

Surface Preparation: Clean all mounting areas thoroughly with soap and water, then degrease using isopropyl alcohol. As before, this step is essential, VHB tape requires clean, wax-free paint to achieve maximum bond strength. Allow all surfaces to dry completely before proceeding.

Preparing the Parts and Adhesive: If the parts you purchase are not pre taped, apply genuine 3M VHB tape to all contact surfaces on the parts, pressing it firmly into the moulded recesses. Avoid touching the exposed adhesive once the backing is removed to prevent contamination.

Fitting the Wheel Arch Flares: Starting with the arches, peel back a small section of tape backing and carefully align the flare using your guide marks. As the parts are flexible, once positioned, press firmly along the entire length, gradually removing the remaining backing as you go. Apply even pressure along the curved sections to ensure full contact. These flares not only enhance the stance but also provide light protection against door dings and stone chips. As the ones i fitted overlapped onto the bumpers, I used an X-acto knife to cut through the flares along the wing/bumper join in case I ever need to remove the bumpers in the future.

Installing the Side Skirt Trim: Fit the side skirt trim next, working from one end to the other to keep the line straight. Press firmly along the full length, paying attention to the lower edges where airflow and road spray are more aggressive. A gentle pass with a heat gun can help the tape conform better in cooler conditions. The end pieces were separate items and added when the strips were in place.

Adding the Faux Arch Vents: Position the faux vents on the front wheel arches, ensuring both sides mirror each other in height and angle. Once aligned, press into place with steady pressure. These serve no airflow function — their role is purely aesthetic, breaking up flat panels and reinforcing the sporty theme.

Curing and Final Checks: As with the other tape-attached parts, avoid washing the car or exposing it to heavy rain for at least 24 hours to allow the VHB tape to fully bond. Inspect all edges for lift and reapply pressure where needed.

Together, these pieces redefine the car’s lower silhouette, adding slight visual width, contrast, and a layer of everyday protection. Not performance modifications, but decorative enhancements with a practical side.

Step 5: Side Indicators/Turn Signal Repeaters

This upgrade replaces the original side indicators with universal aftermarket repeaters with a chrome plated housing and dynamic LEDs for a cleaner, more contemporary look. While the originals use retaining clips, the replacements rely on pre-applied automotive adhesive tape, making this a straightforward visual improvement with no permanent changes.

Removing the Original Indicators: Begin by switching off the ignition and ensuring the indicators are not active. On this vehicle, the factory repeaters are retained by plastic spring clips and can be removed by gently sliding the unit sideways toward the rear of the car. Once free, pull the indicator outward and disconnect the wiring plug. Take care not to mark the paint around the opening.

Cleaning and Preparing the Mounting Area: With the old unit removed, clean the surrounding paintwork and recess thoroughly. Remove any dirt and trapped grime. Degrease the area using isopropyl alcohol and allow it to dry completely. Adhesive mounted parts are only as strong as the surface they’re attached to.

Preparing and Rewiring the New Repeaters: Connect the wiring from the new repeaters to the existing indicator wiring, matching polarity where applicable. If the connectors differ, use proper crimp connectors or solder and heat shrink for a secure, weather resistant joint. Before final fitting, briefly test the indicators to confirm correct operation, especially if they are dynamic ones... you will wand the flow of light to run from front to back.

Test Fitting and Alignment: Place the new repeater against the wing to check positioning and alignment. As these are universal parts without retaining clips, correct placement is especially important. Use masking tape guides if necessary to ensure both sides sit evenly and at the same angle.

Attaching the New Repeaters: Remove the adhesive backing and align the repeater carefully. Once positioned, press it firmly into place while applying even pressure across the unit. Hold in place for a minute or two to activate the adhesive bond.

Final Checks and Cure Time: Re test the indicators to confirm correct operation. Avoid washing the car or disturbing the repeaters for at least 24 hours to allow the tape adhesive to fully cure.

While on a roll, I also added a set of chrome plated bumper guards to each bumper corner. These where also attached with pre-attached tape.

A minor change, but one that replaces dated and faded plastic with something sharper and more intentional.

Step 6: Door Warning Lights, Spot Lights & LED Fog/Driving Lights

Fitting LED Door Warning and Puddle Light Strips:

These LED strips serve two purposes: a red flashing warning section for visibility when the doors are open, and a white lower section that acts as puddle lighting. Practical, tasteful, and very much in keeping with the idea that decoration can also improve day to day usability. As my car has two doors, I purchased a two door set but I believe there are four door sets available.

  1. Strip Layout and Attachment: Before installation, test fit the LED strips along the inner edge of the driver and passenger doors. The shorter red flashing section is positioned vertically along the door edge, while the longer white section runs along the bottom edge of the door to illuminate the ground when opened. Mark placement lightly with masking tape to keep both doors symmetrical. Clean the areas where the LED strips will be attached, peel off the tape backing then attach the the door making sure the red lit end goes on the side of the door. Apply slight pressure to the strip when attaching, but not so hard where you could damage the LEDs themselves.
  2. Removing Door Cards and Accessing Wiring: Carefully remove the interior door cards to expose the internal structure and factory wiring loom with a removal tool. Locate the existing wiring access points between the door and the door jamb, these rubber gaiters are designed to safely carry wiring and should always be used rather than drilling new holes.
  3. Routing and Hiding the Wiring: Run the LED strip wiring neatly behind the door cards, following existing loom routes wherever possible. Pass the wiring through the factory loom access points between the door and the body, ensuring there is enough slack to allow the door to open fully without straining the wires. Secure wiring with fabric tape or cable ties to prevent rattles and wear. And keep in mind where the window opens so any wires does not get caught and damaged by the window.
  4. Electrical Connection: Trace the interior light circuit and connect the LED strips to the interior light switch wiring so they activate when the door opens. Use proper wiring techniques: soldered joints or quality crimp connectors with heat shrink for insulation. Ground the negative LED wires to the car chassis. Before refitting the door cards, test operation to confirm both the red warning lights and white puddle lights function correctly.
  5. Final Assembly: Once confirmed, refit the door cards carefully, ensuring no wires are trapped or pinched. Press the LED strips firmly into place again, applying even pressure along their length.

Adding Aftermarket Front Fog / Driving Lights with Angel Eyes:

Rather than purchasing new front fog light panels, this installation modifies the existing covers for a cleaner, factory like result, a little more effort, but far more cheaper and satisfying.

  1. Removing and Modifying the Fog Light Panels: Remove the original fog light panel covers and measure carefully to mark the centre points for the new lights. Using a circle cutting drill bit, cut clean holes to suit the fog light housings. Take your time, accuracy here determines how professional the final result looks.
  2. Installing the Fog Lights: Fit the new LED fog lights into the modified panels, securing them according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Reinstall the panels onto the car feeding the wires through and up into the engine compartment, ensuring correct alignment and clearance.
  3. Wiring the Angel Eye Rings: Connect the LED angel eye rings to the existing side light wiring so they illuminate with the sidelights. Ground the circuit securely to the vehicle’s chassis using a clean, bare metal earth point. As these are LED units, power consumption is minimal and well within safe limits.
  4. Wiring the Fog Lights: Wire the main fog lights into the rear fog light circuit. This ensures correct activation behaviour and avoids unnecessary additional switches. Again, use proper wiring methods and secure all cables away from heat and moving components.
  5. Upgrading Side Light Bulbs: Finally, I replaced the ageing halogen side light bulbs with cool-white LED bulbs. The contrast between a set of new warm halogen headlight bulbs and the crisp white side lights along with the cool-white angel eyes is a look I genuinely like, and it remains fully road legal in the U.K.

Fitting Front LED Spot Lights

These LED spot lights are added to supplement the car’s high beam, improving forward visibility while keeping the installation tidy and reversible. As with the other exterior additions, the focus is on careful preparation, clean mounting, and sensible wiring.

  1. Positioning and Surface Preparation: Decide on the mounting position at the front of the car, ensuring the lights are symmetrical and do not obstruct airflow, number plates, or sensors. Clean the mounting surfaces thoroughly, then degrease with isopropyl alcohol. This is essential for a reliable bond when using adhesive mounting.
  2. Attaching the Spot Lights with 3M VHB: Apply automotive 3M VHB tape to the mounting bases if not already fitted. Test fit the lights first, then peel back the backing and align carefully. Once positioned, press firmly into place, apply even pressure. Hold pressure for around 10 to 20 seconds per light and allow at least 24 hours before driving or washing the car.
  3. Wiring to the High Beam Circuit: Route the wiring neatly through the engine bay, following existing looms and securing it away from heat and moving parts. Connect the positive feed of the spot lights to the vehicle’s original high beam wiring so the spots only activate when high beam is selected. Ground the negative wire to a clean chassis earth point. As the lights are LED, current draw is low, but connections should still be properly insulated and secured.
  4. Testing and Final Checks: Test the high beam to confirm the spot lights activate correctly and switch off with dipped beam. Check alignment to ensure the lights enhance visibility without causing glare or dazzling other road users.

Final Result: Combined with the angel eye rings, the upgraded lighting provides excellent road illumination without dazzling other drivers. The car gains a modern, confident presence, improved visibility, and a cohesive lighting theme, all achieved through careful decorating rather than aggressive modification.

Step 7: Window Tinting

For the window tinting, rather than using traditional tint film, this upgrade uses pre-cut tinted panels made from Macrolon acrylic, a type of polycarbonate plastic, from a company called Solarplexius. These rigid panels are designed to slot neatly into the interior window trim and are secured using self adhesive clips. The result is a consistent, professional looking tint without water, heat guns, or the risk of creases or air bubbles. I will say this though... my car is a three door, so the back windows don't open so I don't have the following issue... five door car back windows will open and as these panels do not fit to the glass, when you roll the windows down, the panel stays in place unless you physically remove them.

  1. Cleaning the Windows: Start by thoroughly cleaning the inside of the rear and rear side windows. Remove all dust, fingerprints, and residue, anything left behind will remain visible once the panels are fitted. Dry the glass completely before proceeding.
  2. Preparing the Tinted Panels: Before removing any protective film, wipe over both sides of each panel with a damp cloth to remove any static buildup. Wear the supplied gloves throughout handling to prevent fingerprints and smudges on the acrylic surface.
  3. Test Fit the Panels: This is recommended by the company, and with good reason. Even though these are cut to fit, I had to make some slightly larger cutouts for the rear screen to fit around the window defroster terminals as the pre-cuts were too small. I did this using a jigsaw with a fine-toothed blade fitted and cutting at around half speed with the protective sheets still attached, then gave the edges a quick sand with a sanding block. I also made an additional cutout around the rear camera as I didn't want any viewing restrictions.
  4. Removing the Protective Film: Carefully peel away the protective sheets from both sides of the panel. Once removed, avoid placing the panel down on rough or dusty surfaces..
  5. Fitting the Panels: Gently flex the panel slightly to guide it into the window aperture. Some controlled bending is expected, the material is designed for this. Slide the edges into the interior trim channels, working gradually around the window. Ensure the panel sits flush and fully covers the glass so no light leaks through around the edges.
  6. Securing with Adhesive Clips: Position the self-adhesive clips along the panel edges where they meet trim joins. Push each clip into the trim gap, then press the adhesive pad firmly onto the acrylic panel. Apply steady pressure for approximately 10 seconds per clip to ensure a strong bond.
  7. Final Checks: Once all clips are fitted, check the panel from multiple angles to confirm even coverage and secure seating. Repeat the process for all rear and rear-side windows.

The end result is a clean, uniform tint with no bubbles, little to no cutting, and no long curing times. A decorative upgrade that improves privacy, reduces glare, and looks factory-fitted. Inside out visibility is good although obviously reduced a bit at night, but you can still see out fairly well when it's dark outside.

Step 8: Interior

This step focuses on colour, texture, and usability on the inside. Nothing structural, nothing irreversible, just thoughtful decorating choices that improve comfort, visual contrast, and everyday practicality.

Fitting Premium Seat Covers: My cars interior was pretty tidy to begin with, albeit a little bland, but the original seat covers were looking a little tired. Start by vacuuming the seats the fitting the new seat covers, following the manufacturer’s instructions and ensuring airbags, seat controls, and anchor points remain unobstructed. Take time to smooth out creases and secure all straps tightly.

Removing Interior Plastic Fascias: Using a trim removal tool, carefully remove the factory stereo fascia, clock housing, instrument panel fascia, coin holders or anything else you want to paint. Work gently to avoid snapping clips, and set everything aside in order for easy refitting.

Cleaning and Painting the Fascias: Clean all removed parts thoroughly to remove grease and handling marks. Apply a plastic-safe primer and paint combination, white in my case, using light, even coats to avoid runs. Allow proper drying time between coats before refitting. Once dry, I added a purple vinyl pinstripe around the instrument panel fascia for a subtle accent bringing the outside styling, inside.

Refitting the Painted Components: Once fully cured, refit all painted fascias and housings, ensuring clips seat correctly and nothing binds or rattles. The contrast against the darker interior immediately lifts the cabin.

Recovering the Door Armrest Recesses: Here I removed the front door cards and then removed the armrest recess inserts. I cleaned them thoroughly, then covered them in white fleece material using spray contact adhesive applied to both the material and the arm rest. Take your time smoothing the fabric for a neat finish. The material stretched four ways making it easier to fit around the curves without creases.

Adding Beading and Refitting Armrests: Refit the armrest recesses into the door cards. Apply a thin bead of silicone adhesive around the edges and press on a purple beading strip to finish the transition cleanly and securely.

Applying Carbon Fibre style Door Seal Strips: I fitted the self-adhesive carbon fibre effect door seal strips along the door openings. Once in place, I applied some custom made vinyl lettering to these strips for a personalised finishing touch. I strip of purple pinstripe finished off the look.

Custom Cup Holder Inserts: Here I cut some scrap plastic pieces to fit neatly into the drink holders. I cover each piece in white vinyl cloth using the contact adhesive and drop them into place, a simple visual lift using materials that would otherwise be wasted.

Tablet Rear View Mirror and Custom UI: A tablet is used as a digital rear view mirror tied into the dash cams along with a navigation system, media player, and vehicle diagnostics and display. It’s fitted inside a silicone case, with four small holes drilled to allow zip ties to secure it to the existing mirror mount. The tablet can be easily removed when needed. Power is routed neatly along the roof lining, down behind the A-pillar trim, and into the car’s charging port. The tablet runs a custom DIY user interface which I made is stylish, easily readable and usable, and practical while driving which I’ve detailed in another Instructable I published.

Front and Rear Dash Cameras: Front and rear dash cams are installed for practical reasons rather than decoration. The rear camera cable is hidden under the roof lining, while the front camera shares the same concealed routing as the tablet power cable, behind the A-pillar trim. All wiring is secured to avoid rattles and kept well clear of airbags and moving parts. These were attached after cleaning the glass using the included sticky pads and electrostatic film. I also added a vinyl sun wrap to the top of the windscreen using the same methods as fitting the vinyl stripes.

Steering Wheel Cover: And to finish off the look, a colour coded steering wheel was fitted. Don't skimp on cheap and cheerful because you may not be so cheerful with the result if it starts slipping, unthreading or is just plain uncomfortable to use. Measure the diameter of your wheel, order the correct size, clean the steering wheel thoroughly to remove grease and dust, then align the cover at the top of the wheel and work it on gradually, pulling evenly down both sides until it seats fully at the bottom. Adjust as needed so it sits straight and secure, then give it a final check to make sure it doesn’t slip or interfere with steering control.

On their own, none of these changes are major jobs, but together they make the interior feel brighter, more personal, and far less like a standard factory car. Everything was done with simple tools, inexpensive materials, and the same approach you’d use when redecorating a room, just adapted for a car.

Step 9: Conclusion

This project wasn’t about performance upgrades or turning the car into something it isn’t. It was about taking a basic, everyday vehicle and improving how it looks, feels, and works through small, manageable changes. And this Instructable is not about working on a Toyota Yaris as any of these decorating and modification techniques can be used on pretty much any car and shows that you don't have to pay the extra sticker price for a higher spec car, when a little work you can end up with a much more cost effective version.

Most of the work focuses on decoration rather than heavy modification, vinyl, trim pieces, lighting, interior colour changes, and simple tech upgrades. Individually, none of these jobs are difficult or expensive, and most can be reversed if needed. Together, they make the car feel fresher, more personal, and far less like a standard factory base model. The car is mechanically sound which is one of the reasons I bought it, and although the bodywork was pretty sound to begin with, it just needed a little help in the looks department.

Everything was done using basic tools, some included with the items, readily available materials, and a lot of measuring, test fitting, and patience. If you’re comfortable redecorating a room or taking apart plastic trim without forcing it, these are all jobs that can be done at home.

If there’s one takeaway from this build, it’s that modifying a car doesn’t have to mean chasing power or spending large amounts of money. Treating it like a design project, focusing on colour, contrast, lighting, and usability, can make just as much of a difference in how it feels to live with every day.

I hope you enjoyed this car decorating walkthrough and found some or all of it useful, and thanks for reading.

Happy making.