Cheap & Simple FEP Film Vat (Alternative) for UV-Resin 3D Printers

Introduction: Cheap & Simple FEP Film Vat (Alternative) for UV-Resin 3D Printers

About: I love experiment...

For this project you need Laminating Pouches

When making a FEP film vat (alternative), it’s important that you use only PET laminating pouches as these are harder than PETG pouches.

PETG laminating pouches do not fit, and they are also soft which means they scratch easily.

What is a laminating film? It is a sheet of laminating film that is composed of various layers of plastic. The harder layer (PET) is on the outside and the softer layer (EVA) is on the inside. The harder outer layer is usually made from PET plastic (Polyethylene Terephthalate) and the softer inner layer is made out of EVA plastic (Ethylene-Vinyl Acetate.

PET…This is as much as 200 times stronger than glass. It is virtually unbreakable and also has very high impact strength. It is also chemical resistant and super transparent!

What is UV-Resin 3D printing?

Typical 3D printers use what’s called fused deposition modeling (FDM), in which a heated nozzle extrudes plastic filament causing it to melt, meticulously tracing out every detail of the object it’s making.

Resin printing (SLA) turns the process upside down. Instead of starting with a solid raw material, it starts with a liquid and turns it solid. The process uses a liquid, called “Photosensitive resin”, that hardens into solid Polyester, vinyl ester epoxy or urethane when exposed to light. Some resins react to visible light and have to be stored in black containers. Others react to ultraviolet light. If you keep them out of the sun, you won’t have any issues. To make the change, a Digital Light Processing (DLP) projector shines an image into a vat of resin for each layer of the object to be made. Once the first layer hardens onto a platform, the platform moves a tiny bit deeper into the vat of resin — and the projector shines a new image to harden the next layer.

The big benefit of UV-Resin printing is the ability to make objects very small, very detailed or both.

The resolution of the print job on an FDM printer is limited by the thickness of the plastic coming through the nozzle. Good home printers get down to 100 microns (one-tenth of a millimetre, or 0.0039 of an inch).

Step 1: How Do We Get Started?

First, grab your laminate pouch and split it into

2. All you need to do next is dissolve the EVA side in the oven (The heat from the oven makes this transparent) Ensure that the PET side is placed down on some baking parchmanet paper before placing in the oven.

3. Place in the oven at 200-210 deg C (392F) and for approx 4-5 seconds. That is all! You may find that it is tacky to the touch afterwards, but this is normal.

Step 2: The Next Step

So once you have heated the laminate pouch, it should now be transparent.

Grab your resin vat, and stick this on top of the laminate, but make sure that the

EVA side is now facing down as the resin needs to be in contact with the PET side.

You should NOW have your FEP film vat for your UV-Resin 3D printer!

The UV Post Curing Temperature is 60-65 deg C using 405nm UV Light. PET melts at 260 deg C.

You can check out my YouTube video below for a more in depth explanation


Step 3: Settings

for the Micromake L2 / Flsun S & Monocure 3D Rapid Resin

First Layer Time 50000Num

Bottom Layers 3Layer

Height 0.05

Layer Time 15000

Enjoy & Happy #3Dprinting...

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    Question 1 year ago on Step 3

    What side would the PET be? The out side of the poach? Thanks Jim

    Juan C Walls
    Juan C Walls

    Answer 10 months ago

    Yes, the PET is the outside, the shiny side. The EVA is the inside semitransparent and sticky layer.
    Be aware after the heating, both sides will be transparent, so remember where the PET side is so you place it facing to the inside of the resin vat.
    The Youtube video explains it very well.


    2 years ago

    I hate signing up for things to post comments/reviews. I hate my inbox being flooded with garbage. However, after trying this "technique" I signed up anyway. It doesn't work right. The stick is way too strong and the resolution of prints using this is absolutely terrible (if you can get a print to come out). This is the worst idea I have ever seen/tried on a 3D printer. Save yourself some trouble and DO NOT DO THIS!