Introduction: Clapperboard With Built-In SMPTE Timecode Display

If you are a movie fanatic and have some extra time on your hands, creating this simple, yet savvy, clapperboard will scratch the itch in your heart. This clapperboard is meant to be a replica of ones used on movie sets today, with a built-in SMPTE timecode 7-segment display and dry erase face. Whether you want to use it as a room decoration or take it to drama club, this authentic clapperboard will suit any needs.

Feel free to view the link below to see a video of our project functioning!

Supplies

The supplies needed for this project are listed and pictured below:

(Pictured in order)

  • Arduino Uno Rev3 (Link)
  • 7 Segment Display (Link)
  • Protoboard (Link)
  • Rechargeable Battery (Link)
  • Push button (Link)
  • 1/4" x 2' x 2' Birch Plywood (Link)
  • 4oz Gorilla Wood Glue (Link)
  • Dry Erase Board (Link)
  • Hinge (Link)
  • 4x Flat Head Screws (Link)

Step 1: Acquire Tools Needed

To work on this project, there will be some tools needed for woodworking and circuitry. Ensure the following tools or comparable devices are used:

(Pictured in order)

Step 2: Cutting Plywood Into Needed Segments

  1. Tools needed: Hand saw, tape measurer, ruler, pencil, plywood.
  2. To start, we need to cut the plywood sheet into the segments of wood that will be fastened together later to create the frame of the clapperboard.
  3. Utilize the tape measurer to mark 1 ¾ “ line from the edge of the plywood. Mark it at intervals along the entirety of one side of the plywood until reaching the other side, creating a long and thin section (Image 1).
  4. Cut the full length with hand saw (Image 2). 
  5. Mark the long and slender wood piece at 8”, 16”, 28”, and 40” (Image 3).
  6. Cut at each marked section, leaving two 8” pieces and two 12” ones. These will act as the sides of the clapperboard base framework (Image 4).
  7. Next, we need to cut the plywood into the wood backing. Measure a section that is 12” by 8” and trace with the pencil (Images 5 and 6).
  8. Cut the section out. The wooden frame section is now complete (Image 7).

Step 3: Cut Out Whiteboard Front

  1. Tools needed: Whiteboard, tape measurer, hand saw, pencil.
  2. Here we will utilize the whiteboard purchased. We need to cut it out to make the face of the clapperboard.
  3. Measure out a mark at 2", 4", and 8", leaving two 2" sections and a 4" section. Draw the lines out past 12" horizontally.
  4. Next, place a perpendicular vertical line of 12" and make it intersect with the 8" line from above. Make a mark at 1.5" and 10.5" that are perpendicular to the previous lines in the middle section.
  5. Cut out the traced lines with the hand saw to be left with 5 pieces: one 12"x4", two 1.5"x2", one 9"x2", and a 12"x2". Discard the 9"x2" section, this will be where the 7 segment display is placed.

Step 4: Construct Clap Top

  1. Tools needed: Hand saw, plywood, tape measurer, pencil, wood glue.
  2. The wooden clapper will be attached to the top of the frame to make the iconic "clap" noise. To construct, return to the plywood and measure out 6 12"x1.75" rectangles.
  3. Cut them with the hand saw.
  4. Then, line them on top of each other to make a 12"x1.75"x1.5" rectangular prism. Generously apply wood glue in-between each section to make the prism. Let dry for at least an hour (Image 1)

Step 5: Glue Frame Together

  1. Tools needed: Electric drill, 4 screws, wood glue, duct tape, cut plywood, cut whiteboard.
  2. Now the entire frame needs to be glued together to create the clapperboard base. The wood glue, screws, drill, tape, and all the plywood planks are needed (Image 1).
  3. Place the 12"x1.5" and 8"x1.5" planks in a rectangular frame like shown in the second image.
  4. Place wood glue at all the joints and gently tape the board together to hold. Let dry for 30 mins.
  5. Remove the tape from the frame and ensure it is secure. If not, check back every 1 minutes until dry.
  6. Next, grab the 12"x8" backboard plank and place it under the frame (Image 3).
  7. Gently place guider holes and screw in the 4 screws to the frame, creating an open box shape as shown in the image.
  8. Finally, grab the whiteboard sheets cut earlier. Arrange the large 12"x4" on the bottom of the frame, with the 12"x2" at the very top (Image 4).
  9. The small 1.5"x2" rectangles are placed in the middle, leaving a large rectangular gap. Glue and tape to secure the pieces as shown in the image. Leave out until completely dry (Image 5).

Step 6: Place Clap Top Onto Frame

  1. Tools needed: Complete frame, complete clap top, hinge with screws, electric drill
  2. With the frame now secure with no tape, lets grab the clap top and the hinge.
  3. We need to place the clap top on top of the frame with the large whiteboard rectangle at the base. Line up the top with the clapper.
  4. Place the top of the hinge on the clapper and the bottom on the frame.
  5. Drill the screws into both parts to combine them into one assembly (Image 1).
  6. Ensure that the clapper can move up and down freely. Feel free to clap it down to create the iconic slap noise associated with the device!
  7. Congratulations, you now have a mechanical clapperboard. Now we must move onto the electronics (Image 2).

Step 7: Loading the Code


1.    Tools needed: Computer, Arduino

2. On your computer or laptop, please download the Arduino software linked here.

3. Open the Arduino software when the download finishes.

4. Connect the Arduino with its cord into a USB port on your computer or laptop that has the Arduino software.

5.    Copy the code included below into the Arduino IDE:

/*************************************************** 
  Written By Dawson Reprogle and Ava Romero for Purdue ECET38001 Team 15


  Description: Program runs clapper board code to display time and frames to 
  the 2 7-Segment Displays.
 ****************************************************/


#include <Wire.h> // Enable this line if using Arduino Uno, Mega, etc.
#include <Adafruit_GFX.h>
#include "Adafruit_LEDBackpack.h"


const int buttonPin = 3;     // the number of the pushbutton pin
volatile uint8_t is_running = 0; //keep track of status


Adafruit_7segment matrix1 = Adafruit_7segment(); //create matrix 1 object
Adafruit_7segment matrix2 = Adafruit_7segment(); //create matrix 2 object
uint8_t dis_hours = 0; //initialize hours
uint8_t dis_minutes = 0; //initialize minutes
uint8_t dis_seconds = 0; //initialize seconds
uint8_t dis_frames = 0; //initialize frames
uint8_t rate_frames = 24; //initialize frame rate




void buttonlow()
{
  if(is_running == 0) //if it's not running, start
  {
    is_running = 1;
  }
  else
  {
    is_running = 0; //don't start
  }
}


void setup() {
  attachInterrupt(digitalPinToInterrupt(buttonPin), buttonlow, CHANGE); //initialize interrupt
#ifndef __AVR_ATtiny85__
  Serial.begin(9600); //begin serial command
#endif
  matrix1.begin(0x70); //initialize matrix 1
  matrix2.begin(0x71); //initialize matrix 2
}


void loop() {
  matrix1.writeDigitRaw(2, 0x04 | 0x08); // turns on leftmost colons
  boolean drawDots = true; //sets to 1
  matrix2.drawColon(drawDots); //turns on matrix 2 dots
  //dis_frames = (dis_seconds * 100) / rate_frames; //determines frames for 24 frames/sec
  //setting digits to zero
  matrix1.writeDigitNum(3, (dis_frames / 10) % 10, drawDots); 
  matrix1.writeDigitNum(4, dis_frames % 10, drawDots);
  
  matrix1.writeDigitNum(0, (dis_seconds / 10) % 10, drawDots);
  matrix1.writeDigitNum(1, dis_seconds % 10, drawDots);
  //display matrix 1 digits
  matrix1.writeDisplay();


  matrix2.writeDigitNum(3, (dis_minutes / 10) % 10, drawDots);
  matrix2.writeDigitNum(4, dis_minutes % 10, drawDots);


  matrix2.writeDigitNum(0, (dis_hours / 10) % 10, drawDots);
  matrix2.writeDigitNum(1, dis_hours % 10, drawDots);
  //display matrix 2 digits
  matrix2.writeDisplay();
 
 while(true)
  {
 while(is_running == 1) //pause
    {
    }
    if(dis_frames < 23) //frame count
    {
            dis_frames++;
    }
    else
    {
      dis_frames = 0;
      if(dis_seconds < 59) //seconds count
      {
        dis_seconds++;
      }
      else
      {
        dis_seconds = 0;
        if(dis_minutes < 59) //minutes count
        {
          dis_minutes++;
        }
        else
        {
         dis_minutes = 0;
         if(dis_hours < 99) //hours count
         {
          dis_hours++;
         }
         else
         {
          dis_hours = 0;
         }
        }
      }
    } 
   
    //display new times values to appropriate digits       
    matrix1.writeDigitNum(3, (dis_frames / 10) % 10, drawDots);
    matrix1.writeDigitNum(4, dis_frames % 10, drawDots);
    
    matrix1.writeDigitNum(0, (dis_seconds / 10) % 10, drawDots);
    matrix1.writeDigitNum(1, dis_seconds % 10, drawDots);
    matrix1.writeDisplay();


    matrix2.writeDigitNum(3, (dis_minutes / 10) % 10, drawDots);
    matrix2.writeDigitNum(4, dis_minutes % 10, drawDots);


    matrix2.writeDigitNum(0, (dis_hours / 10) % 10, drawDots);
    matrix2.writeDigitNum(1, dis_hours % 10, drawDots);
    matrix2.writeDisplay();
    //delay 1/24th of a second for 24 fps
    delay(41);
    delayMicroseconds(667); 
    }  //if end


}//main loop ending

6.    Under the tools tab, then select the board as “Arduino Uno”. Also under the tools tab select the Port then “/dev/cu.usbmodem14101 (Arduino Uno)”

7.    Now you’re ready to compile and upload the code to your Arduino. Do so now by selecting the buttons.

Step 8: Soldering the Board Together

1. Tools needed: Schematic, 7 segment displays, protoboard, soldering kit, Arduino, wires, wire cutters.

2.    On the right-most (when display is facing you) 7-Segment solder the A0 pins on the back together as shown (Image 2).

3.    It is recommended that you set your soldering iron to 350-400 degrees Celsius. Make sure to solder all wires to the protoboard before soldering the 7-Segment Displays. The wires should be connected as shown (Image 3). Helpful hint: Do one color of wire at a time to keep yourself organized.

More Helpful Hints:

1.    Cut wires using wire cutters and wire strippers to size as you go.

2.    Work on one wire at a time.

3.    Tape down pieces that you are soldering so they do not budge while you are working (Image 4).

Step 9: Establishing the Push Button Connection

1. Tools needed: push button, protoboard, wires, soldering kit, wire cutters, 7 segment displays.

2.    The pins in the same red circle indicate that those two pins are connected to one another (Image 1). On the schematic where 1 on the pushbutton is labelled are the two left most pins in the image.

3.    In order to solder the pins you will need to wrap the wire around each pin as shown (Image 2).

4.    Once the pins on the pushbutton are all soldered it should look as shown below (Image 3).

5.    Make sure to trim all excess headers before soldering the 7-segments (Image 4).

6.    Now the board should look as shown (Image 5).

7.    Now you may solder the 10 7-Segment pins to the protoboard as shown.

Step 10: Final Electronic Steps

1. Tools required: 7 segment displays, battery, Arduino, push button, computer.

2.    Place a piece of insulating material between the 7-segments and the protoboard.

3.    Connect the Arduino to the rechargeable battery.

4.    Verify the 7-Segment Display runs with the code as intended. If not check soldering connections.

Step 11: Integrating the Electronics in the Clapperboard

  1. Tools needed: Complete frame, complete electric system, electric drill, hand saw, wood glue, tape.
  2. We must unscrew the backing of the clapperboard to fasten in and place the electronics. Do this now.
  3. Simply place the protoboard and the Arduino into the empty frame as shown (Image 1).
  4. Drill out a 1in X 1in hole into the top of the frame for the push button to be fastened (Image 2). Ensure the top of the button is sticking out of the hole such that when the clapper arm is clapped, it is pressed.
  5. Please secure the push button here with the wood glue and allow to dry for 30-60 minutes (Image 3).
  6. Plug the Arduino into the battery and secure the battery and Arduino with the Velcro tape that came with the Arduino (Image 4).
  7. Tape the rear of the 7 segment display snuggly to the frame. The entire interior components should look as so in Image 5.
  8. Screw the backboard back into place with the 4 screws and congratulations, this product is now complete!

Step 12: Product Usage

With the project done, we need to discuss how to utilize the product. First and simplest, just simply lift and forcefully lower the clap top to create the iconic "clap" noise heard all throughout Hollywood. We ensured the quality of the snap was enough to be useful in practical theatre situations, so feel free to use this project. To activate the SMPTE timecode on the 7 segment display, ensure the battery is on and the Arduino is lit up. Then, when the clap is made, the timer will begin! To stop the timer, clap the board again. This action of starting and stopping the clock can be done as many times as needed. To reset the timer, simply turn the battery off and back on again. To charge to battery, plug it into an electrical outlet and let it charge for up to 8 hours when dead.

Step 13: Thank You!

We hope you have enjoyed this tutorial to create your very own clapperboard with SMPTE time code compatibility. Feel free to reach out to us with any comments, questions, or discussion. Once again, thank you from Team 15!

Step 14: References

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