DIY Console Table With 'Fake' Drawers

by itzikdiy

5.5K1914

Intro: DIY Console Table With 'Fake' Drawers

I built this Console Table at my home's balcony, using basic home tools.

It took a few days to finish it, working for a few hours at the evening after coming back from work.

The drawers are 'fake', since we didn't need the storage space and it reduced the complexity of the build.

After building the table, I thought how to still utilize the space inside (although there are no real drawers) and one option is by making the top board open-able using hinges and then it can be used as a 'secret space'. I didn't have the chance to do it yet, but it can be an idea for anyone who wants to build it.

The following video includes all steps and dimensions, from cutting to painting.

If you liked the project, please subscribe to my Channel.

Enjoy! :)


STEP 1: ​Required Tools

General List of tools I'm using - https://www.itzikdiy.com/tools-list?m=1

Basic required tools:

  • Jigsaw (for round cuts)
  • Another more accurate saw (e.g. circular saw)
  • Drill / Screwdriver
  • Measuring tape
  • Sand paper
  • Brush / Roller

I used the following saws:

STEP 2: Required Materials

Required Materials:

  • 18mm width pine wood board.
  • 4*4cm pine wood profile (for the legs and connections poles)
  • 0.5mm width plywood board for the 'fake' drawers.
  • 20mm Oak wood board - for the top (you can use pine wood, but I found oak it more special and it was suitable for the other furniture we have at home.)
  • Screws in different sizes.
  • 4 small angles for some connections.
  • 3 wooden 'button' handles
  • Wood glue.
  • Wood filler.
  • Paint (I used chalked paint).
  • Dark brown pastel color. (the one that kids use)
  • Clear protective topcoat.

STEP 3: Cutting the Wooden Parts

Following are the dimensions of each wooden part needs to be cut:

  1. 4 legs - 78 cm (from the 4 x 4 cm wood profile)
  2. Boards (18 mm):
    1. 1 bottom board: 88 x 29 cm
    2. 1 front board: 88 x 20.5 cm
    3. 2 inner sides: 14.5 x 29 cm
    4. 2 outer sides: 20.5 x 23.5 cm
  3. Other parts can be cut during the build in the required size to fit.

STEP 4: Connecting the Bottom Board to the Inner Sides

Connecting with 3 screws for each.

STEP 5: Connecting Poles As a Base for the Front Board

STEP 6: Connecting the Rear Legs to the Inner Sides

Connecting with screws from inside.

STEP 7: Connecting the Front Legs to the Outer Sides on Angles

Creating 0.5 cm space with a plywood. (the side is not connected on the edge of the leg, but with a 0.5 cm space). see pictures on later steps for the result.

STEP 8: Connecting the Front Legs and Outer Sides - to the Inner Sides

Taking the 2 connected parts from the previous step, and connecting with screws to the inner sides.

STEP 9: Connecting the Rear Legs to Outer Sides

Same here - Creating 0.5 cm space with a plywood. (the side is not connected on the edge of the leg, but with a 0.5 cm space).

STEP 10: Cutting Roundred Shape on the Front Board

  • Drawing a rounded shape on the board, with a printed rounded shape.
  • The center of the circle is in 3.5 cm depth.
  • Cutting the rounded shape on the front board using a jigsaw.
  • Connecting the front board to the current build.

STEP 11: Preparing the Base Poles for the Top Board Connection

Cutting some poles to fit the frame of the inner table build and connecting them. This will be later be removed and be connected to the top oak board, on the next step.

STEP 12: Preparing and Connecting the Top Oak Board

  • Rounding the edges with a trimmer.
  • Marking the position of the poles on the top board with a pen.
  • Remove the 3 poles we created on the previous step.
  • Connecting the top base poles to the top board.
  • Putting the top board on the build and connecting.

STEP 13: Connecting Each Front and Back Legs Together

Using wood glue and screwes.

STEP 14: Preparing and Connecting the 'Fake' Drawers

  • Cutting the 3 'Fake' drawers front panel from 0.5 width plywood, 26x12 cm each.
  • Connecting the 'drawers' with a wood glue.
  • Putting heavy weight on top for drying.
  • Drilling holes for the handles.
  • Expanding the holes inside for the handles' screwes heads.
  • Connecting ther handles.

STEP 15: Filling, Sanding, Painting

  • Filling holes with a wood filler
  • Sanding.
  • Painting.

STEP 16: Tip: Giving a Vintage Look Easily

  • Since that the color below the new paint is too bright (pine wood color) and for getting a distressed vintage look it's better to have more dark color, I gave the vintage look by painting the corners with dark brown pastel color on top of the new table's color, instead of sanding.
  • Finishing with a clear protective topcoat paint.

That's it...

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11 Comments

Aristarco 4 years ago

I came from the stool page and was following the steps all so excited and arrive to step 14 and... fake drawers!? Get outta here! Boo! Hope to see another project that includes real drawers :(

itzikdiy 4 years ago

Hi Aristarco, sorry to dissapoint you :)
This was my first complex woodworking project... and as you can see, I built the project in my balcony using simple tools... I was afraid to make drawers at this time due to the complexity...

Penolopy Bulnick 5 years ago

Great little table! I like the idea of adding hinges and having hidden storage :)

austin.hall.129794 5 years ago

Fake drawers.... just... why? It's small wonder the "shabby chic" look gets so much bad press with this sort of thing being made. Just use sandpaper already, do it PROPERLY. *sigh*

itzikdiy 5 years ago

Hi Austin,
As I mentioned in the description, "The drawers are 'fake', since we didn't need the storage space and it reduced the complexity of the build."

As you can see, my workspace and is pretty simple... I think that making real drawers with slides would require more accurate saw and tools, in order to make work good and smooth.

Regarding the "shabby chic", are you talking about the way I painted with the brown pastel?
I didn't sand it, since the wood is too bright and it wasn't the look I wanted.
I saw that other people usualy doing double paint, one with dark brown and one with the "shabby chic" and than sanding... which is much more work.
I actualy satisfied with the look I received with this simple solution :)
If you meant to something else, please tell...

Thank you for your comment.

audreyobscura 5 years ago

This project came out great, good job! For future Instructables, it may be helpful to include more text with each step so visitors to your article will be able to follow along and reproduce your instructions. Also, during your next build, try taking some close-up detail shots of your project so that we can see exactly where screws and parts are going.

Keep it up!

itzikdiy 5 years ago

Thank you for your suggestions!

Tura Street 5 years ago

This looks pretty cool. Thanks for sharing. Welcome to instructables.

itzikdiy 5 years ago

Thank you. I modified now the instructable with many steps and images.

itzikdiy 5 years ago

In case that the color below the new paint of the furniture is too bright (pine wood color for example) and you would like to get a distressed vintage look (which is better to make with more dark color), it's possible to give the vintage look by painting the corners with dark brown pastel color on top of the new table's color, instead of sanding. On top of that, paint with a clear protective topcoat paint.