Introduction: Cordless Tool Charging Station

Station can either be configured to hang on a wall (secured to wall studs) or can sit on a table.
This will be very heavy so I recommend sitting it on a table or have wall connections strong enough for 250 pounds or more.

Leave room at the top and bottom of sides to go longer at both ends. Bottom portion of the drill hanger is one solid board with notches cut out for the drills.

#2 Surge suppressor behind bottom charger angled shelf

---- I recommend using one with a cord longer than 6'

#3 Optional

---- Use a locking bar/chain to go across drill heads that extends into the top battery shelf

---- A door covering the battery shelves with a locking mechanism on the left and the hinges on the right

---- A notch in the center divider between the top battery shelf and the drill hangs so the drill locking bar will slide into slot. This will allow the door to secure both sections with one lock

---- An eye bolt on the left end of the station can be used to connect the bar/chain. A hinge of sorts could be used but I'd recommend using the eye bolts so the bar/chain can hang when opened instead of sticking out

#4 An extra compartment for various items, another charger, a different tool, etc

#5 Use Shelf Pins to hold the angled shelf

Step 1: Additional Documentation - PDF

Step 2: Materials




----- Drill board: 18” x 12” x 1”

--------------- 8” x 3 3/4” x 1/2” (3) – Hanging support boards

--------------- Measure drill heads and adjust height based on largest drill head (3”)

--------------- Use varying slot widths so you can hang tools other than drills (whatever works best for you)

----- Battery shelves: 10” x 12” x 1” (2)

----- Charger Angled Shelf: 17 5/8” x 12” x 1” – The front of the board with have an angled cut so it sits flush against the brace board that sits in the front

--------------- 18” x 3” x 1” (Goes in front of the angled shelf)

--------------- I chose not to secure the angled shelf so I would be able to get to the surge suppressor in the future.

--------------- Square dowel near the bottom of the shelf to support the chargers. I used 1/4“ square dowel across the entire board.

----- Center divider: 21” x 12” x 1”

----- Top/Bottom: 28 3/4” x 12” x 1” (2)

----- Sides: 26” x 12” x 1” (2)

----- Back: 30 1/8” x 21 9/16” x 1/4”




----- Finish nails (for back & drill board supports)

----- Screws (connects all 1” to 1” boards)

---------- 1.25” #6 (slightly countersunk)

----- Shelf pins (2)

----- Wood glue (optional; use for all connections using clamp overnight; I used glue on all connections for additional structural stability)

----- Wood filling (to cover all nails and screws and to fill in imperfections in the wood prior to sanding; I used a weathered grey stain so I left all of the imperfections to add to the weathered look)

----- Stain (pick your favorite)

----- Polyurethane (optional; I didn’t use it because I used weathered stain; if I did use it, I would have used a semi-gloss)

----- Wood clamp (at least 32” in length; the more the better)

----- Nail punch (to prevent hammer damage to wood when the nail head is near the wood; punch down lower than surface and use wood filling to cover holes)

----- Wood plugs (optional; I pre-drilled and countersunk all screws, then used wood filling to cover the screw heads, and then sanded/stained)

----- Digital wall timer (I used Utilitech 15-amp Digital Lighting Timer from Lowe’s so I could set in manual/5/10/30/60/120/240 minute increments without guessing like with a spring timer)

----- Surge suppressor (15-amp variety)

----- ”Old Work” electrical box (it does not need support beams to fasten to, it uses the back of the board to fasten with an ear; single or double if adding additional outlet)

----- Twist caps (4)

----- GFCI outlet (optional; include 3 electrical wires to connect to male end Hot, Ground, and Neutral wires; Load wire would go from outlet to digital Hot wire)

----- Double faceplate if adding outlet in a double box




----- Wood: $86

----- Nails/Screws/Surge Suppressor/Pins/Glue/Filling/Timer/Stain: $44

----- Total Cost: $130

Step 3: Wall Timer Setup

#1 Digital Timer connection:

---- White (Neutral) to suppressor male end White (Neutral)

---- Black (Hot) to suppressor male end Black (Hot)

---- Green (Ground) to suppressor male end Green (Ground)

---- Red (Load) to suppressor female end Black (Hot)

Female (surge suppressor) connection:

---- White (Neutral) to male end White (Neutral)

---- Green (Ground) to male end Green (Ground)

---- Black (Hot) to Timer Red (Load)

Male (outlet) connection:

---- White (Neutral) to timer/female White (Neutral)

---- Green (Ground) to timer/female Green (Ground)

---- Black (Hot) to timer Black (Neutral)

Use twist caps to secure and protect the wires.

---- Male End:

---- White (Neutral) should have 3 wires twisted

---- Black (Hot) should have 2 wires twisted

---- Green (Ground) should have 3 wires twisted

Female End:

---- Black (Hot) should have 2 wires twisted

---- White (Neutral) should have 3 wires twisted

---- Green (Ground) should have 3 wires twisted

Step 4: Completed

Various photos of completed product.

On the angled charger board, I took the picture before I stained the 1/4" dowel rod so it would be easier to see in the photo.