Introduction: Corvid Covid Mask

Slow the spread while attracting the strangest looks. Show what you think of the donkeys and elephants by just being a bird for a while.

This is a corvid-beak-shaped mask made of woven fabric, including outer layer, lining, and non-woven fusible stiffener. This is not medical grade by any means but is a solid and comfortable alternative to the usual masks.

When made right, the results are a mask that leaves your mouth and nose relatively unobstructed. Great for those struggling with sensory issues, though you will still sound like you're talking through a pillow.

Warning: Has been known to frighten very small children. Just some of them.

Read through all instructions before you begin! Knowing why you're doing a thing can make it easier to understand what exactly needs to be done.

To those who saw this design months ago on social media and requested a pattern... apologies for the delay. I've never made a pattern before and some difficulties had to be smoothed before it was ready to share. It may have some bugs yet. Feel free to mention if anything requires clarification... though it's pretty wordy already!

2/1/2021 edit - An extra layer of filtering can be added by applying stiffener to the lining layer as well, but a better approach might be to use this mask as your additional mask over a KN95. I haven't tested a 4 layer design for breathability yet so I can't vouch for how well that will work.

Attachments

Supplies

  • Beak fabric - woven cotton, cotton/poly, or linen, maybe a third of a yard at most. Something fun. Or black. It's all good.
  • Lining fabric - can be the same as the outer beak or a lighter cotton. Something comfy.
  • Stiffener - one-sided craft fuse or heavy weight fusible interfacing. There are multiple varieties. It just needs to be something that can be ironed on to the shell fabric, with adhesive on only one side, stiff but not too thick to sew properly, and that won't dissolve when washed. If you use a heavy enough fabric for the outer section, you may not need a very stiff interfacing or none at all, but the mask will filter more if it has a non-woven layer.
  • Elastic - either 16-20" of 1/8" elastic (1/4" if you have big ears and find it more comfortable) or around 26" of 1/4" elastic if you prefer to have the mask wrap around your head instead of your ears. Link to an example of the stuff included for a visual, but I fully recommend you buy on Etsy or the like because you can get a buttload of it for cheap.
  • Some kind of wire for the nose if you want one (a wire, that is, as I assume you have a nose already). Pipe cleaners can work, too, broken in half, then folded in half. The wired version of this mask is made to fit purchased nose wires.
  • Patterns - see below. Includes wired and non-wired designs in medium and large sizes. Pictured above Is a medium sized, unwired shark mask with elastic ear loops, and a dark green large mask with nose wire and an elastic strap around the head. The patterns for two sizes and two designs are included, with scales for accurate printing. I can't explain how to print it to the correct size. I've tried printing actual size and it tends to come out a fraction larger or smaller than it should. Using the scale, you can get an idea whether this happened to you, too.

Tools-

Step 1: Cutting

The pattern has two pieces:

  • the top - the beaky bit - cut 2 each of lining, stiffener/interfacing, and main fabric, matching patterns where possible on the top seam of the main fabric (usually only works when you have a fabric with a pattern like plaids or stripes, or a pattern that mirrors itself sometimes)
  • the chin - cut 1 of main fabric, lining and stiffener on the fold

You may find it easier to use pattern weights and cut with a rotary cutter, or trace the pattern piece and then pin to cut with scissors, since the pattern will be printed on regular paper.

Select your size. The medium fits young adults of average size and weight, aka my daughters in their teens and twenties who have dainty chins and magnificent noses. For my big ol' middle-aged, long-chinned, nub-nosed, big-headed self, we have a larger size.

The regular version is higher up the nose, whereas the wired version is trimmed to line up a bit above the edge of the wire casing, with a bit of added space for comfort. If another size is needed, tbh you can just print it a little larger or smaller and see how well it makes up.

Pre-wash and dry the fabrics for the beak and lining, both on hot, at least once, preferably a couple or three times to preshrink. Do not use fabric softener. You won't be drying the finished mask, but the fabric should be able to handle the heat now. If it can't, you might want to find something different.

Step 2: Ironing the Freaking Stiffener On

If you're using heavy weight interfacing (the kind with little dots of adhesive on the back) - The instructions to apply it should be on a paper that came with the interfacing. Usually works pretty well.

BUT if you're using the craft fuse (that's shiny on the back, no dots) - I found that the wet cloth instructions SUCKED and did nothing.

So here's what worked:

  • Lay down stiffener, shiny side up, then place main fabric pieces on top, right side up (so that the stiffener will be stuck to the wrong side of the outer fabric). Apologies; the photo shows me pressing it a little on the craft fuse side to stick the pieces together before I flipped it over to iron properly. It's easier to just lay the craft fuse down first.
  • With iron set to cotton setting, iron the living crap out of it for at least ten seconds.
  • When you pick it up (carefully, please), those pieces should be fully stuck together. Test it and see if you can separate them. If you can, put them back down and iron them harder. The cloth can take it, if it's cotton or linen. Just check it regularly until it's stuck.

If you've become confused and ironed the stiffener to the outer, patterned part of the fabric... I think you know what you've done wrong and you've suffered enough. Make a self-deprecating post about it somewhere to let off steam, go cut more out and try again. Mistakes teach better than successes.

Step 3: Let's Start Sewing This Sucker - the Beaky Upper Section

    Seam allowance: weeell, here's the thing... I honestly thought it was 1/4" until I realized I had the needle in the center of the presser foot, using the edge of the foot as a guide, and that it was more like a 5/16", or 8mm, seam. Seems like hair splitting but it can make a difference when you do it through the whole mask. If you do sew it in a 1/4" seam, though, it'll just be a bit bigger.

    If sewing by hand, mark seams on each piece for guidance and use small stitches, overlapping them a bit as you go to make it nice and tight. It's not a huge project even when hand sewn, but it will become challenging when it's time to finish the elastic casings because of the fabric layers.

    Sewing the tops together -

  • Pin two beaky (top) sections of the main (stiffened) fabric together at the top, right sides facing (do the same with two beaky linings, might as well do both at the same time).
  • Sew each of them along the curvy top edge, starting at the nose and stopping at the dot. You'll need that little open part in front in order to perform an obnoxiously tricky maneuver when you add the chin section next. It's worth it to form the shape, so be patient.
  • Clip the inside curves almost to the stitching on the outer section, since it will be turned right side out. See the photo for clarification. If you accidentally clip the stitching, sew over that bit just inside the first stitching and it'll be fine.

Iron center seam of outside portion open if desired. You can actually skip ironing this part and it seems to come out alright, or iron it when it's done if it doesn't look right. If making the wired version, press both center seams away from the side where you intend to make your wire opening.

Step 4: Attaching the Chin Section and Shaping Tip of the Beak

The tricky part:

  • Pin the chin section, right sides facing, to the upper beak, lining up the back edges. Then line up the tips the best you can... oddly, this varies from fabric to fabric and mask to mask (probably because of the stiffener), so it's on you to center the tip of the upper beak whether or not it matches the chin section. This is why you need that little split, as a guide and because it's a bit easier to flatten and stitch.
  • Stitch toward the front until you come close to, but not all the way to, the tip of the mask, then curve in toward the split, aiming for the very tip or very slightly in front of the center of the gap. When the needle is centered, stop and pivot to head back up the other side.
  • Trim the tip of the mask to make it easier to turn. Turn and press seams open the best you can, checking to make sure the shape looks the way you want and that the tip of the snout isn't open. This is a Covid mask, after all.

For the lining, do the same, except leave a gap open in one edge toward the middle of that edge. You'll need this later.

Step 5: Two Beaks Made One

  • Turn the outer beak inside out again except for the very tip; it's just easier to leave it tucked a bit. Just turn it enough to sew the raw edges.
  • Turn lining right side out and stuff it inside the outer beak, pinning all edges of the opening (where your face is gonna go), matching seams and centers and back extensions.
  • Sew along upper edge and lower edge, leaving the very back edges open. Sew bottom seam as pictured at the back edges.
  • Clip to stitching inside curves and at the sharp point inside the lower back of each side. Trim some of the extra cloth at the top of the nose section.

For wired version:

  • Sew top seam of mask and lining together, leaving open between marks on the side of your choice, making sure that the center seam allowance of both lining and outer shell are turned away from the opening so that the wire can go in the finished mask without getting caught. The rest of the casing will be finished later.

Step 6: Turning the Mask

  • Take the tip of the outer part of the mask and poke it through the opening left in in the lining. Pull through and turn, tucking the lining inside the outer mask.
  • Pin in place, if desired, and iron flat, then edge stitch close to the seam along top and bottom seams to stabilize.
  • Finish raw edges in back either with a zigzag stitch, or by clipping just the edge with pinking shears (zigzag fabric scissors).

For wired version:

  • Stitch through mask and lining along stitching lines, making sure to leave the opening unstitched so that the wire can be inserted.
  • Insert mask wire or piece of pipe cleaner, folded in half. If the wire is washable, stitch opening closed. If the wire snaps, these stitches can be removed in order to replace it.
  • If the wire is not washable (pipe cleaners should not be left in during washing) then leave this part open so that it can be removed for washing. The mask is still as sealed as it gets with this small opening since the wire casing is there.

If using self-adhesive nose wires: I strongly discourage using the adhesive. I bought a bunch of them, nice sturdy ones, but in most masks they do snap sooner or later and are hard to remove if you use the adhesive. I have yet to have on snap in a bird mask so that's a bonus. Just in case, however, I prepare the wire by peeling off the adhesive, sticking it to a piece of scrap fabric, and trimming away the extra before inserting curved side inward. This can also give you the chance to stick it to a thicker fabric like cotton batting if you want the nose piece a bit tighter.

Step 7: Finishing the Mask

Pull out lining and stitch up the opening. This doesn't have to be pretty; the simplest stitch will do. I prefer to just pull the two sides together and machine sew them, then tuck the lining back into the mask.

To keep the lining from sucking in against your face every time you take a breath, work a few stitches through the mask and lining at or near the tip of the beak, securing the lining in place. It's usually enough to keep it stable. If the lining isn't secured by this, a few more stitches, concealed in the seams, may be needed closer to the mouth. I discourage skipping this step entirely if you like the idea of a mask that stays away from your mouth and nose. A few stitches go a long way.

Finishing:

  • Fold back edges of mask to the inside at the crease. It should line up perfectly with the mask, hiding it almost completely inside.
  • Stitch 3/8" away from the fold, on the outside of the mask.

Step 8: Wearing the Mask

Cut 2 8" pieces of 1/8" elastic and thread through casings. If the casing is too stiff to get the elastic through, use a bodkin, safety pin, paper clip... something stiff to pull it through. Tie to a comfortable size using a square knot (essential) and try on; if it's wrong you can still untie and retie it now. It should be snug but if it feels a little too tight now, it's gonna feel way too tight after half an hour.

Once it feels right, tug the elastic inside the casings (unless you literally don't feel knots; I sure as crap do).

For elastic around the head and neck, cut a 26" piece of 1/4" elastic and thread through both casings, deciding whether you want the stitching to show on the head or the neck. Adjust to fit, overlapping ends, and stitch elastic together, trimming away excess. This results in a mask that you can slide off and pull away from your face and down the freed elastic, leaving it hanging on your chest until you need it again. To put it back on, grab the now shortened piece at the top in one hand and the mask in the other and place over your nose and mouth while pulling the elastic back over your head like the oxygen masks have just dropped down.

Tip for those wearing the head and neck elastic design: if removing mask in order to eat, swing it around your back while eating or you'll end up wearing a feed bag. Masks do not fare well against the Taco Bell.

Step 9: Washing the Mask

Wash in hot water by hand or in a lingerie bag in the washing machine, removing the nose wire beforehand if using a pipe cleaner. Again, do not use fabric softener. Do not dry; the fabric can handle a dryer, the elastic not so much. Once the mask is washed, remove it from the bag and reshape, careful not to bend wires (if left in) too much. Frequently bending can snap the wire and it's a pain to swap it.

We do tend to leave the masks unwashed, but hanging to air out, between uses, washing after a few wearings. Whether you find that utterly revolting is up to you. You've got the pattern; you can make extras, right?

Apologies if I've over-explained... this is my first published pattern and I want to get it right. Once you've made the mask once, it gets easier and really isn't much more work than a lined mask of a more standard pattern. At least, it isn't to me.

Good luck, and may this pattern become redundant and thoroughly unnecessary as soon as possible. Leave a note if you have any questions, please be gracious when offering criticism. Corvids remember those who treat them poorly. That's not a threat... but meanness makes me sad. It's free, I did my best, I'm willing to make necessary updates... be nice.